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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I remeasured and it's just under 12 ft from the doorway to the end of the partition. I think I measured that 19 ft as the absolute longest it could be before running into things, and then didn't take detailed enough notes. ok, see if you like any of these, you can get samples of any of them for a deposit https://www.roomandboard.com/catalog/rugs/all-rugs?filter=Flat-weave what is the paint color on the walls, and what is the blue paint color you want to use?
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Apr 7, 2021 01:10
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TheOtherContraGuy posted:We bought a house a couple months ago and now want to replace the carpets with hardwood but I have no idea where to start. Does anyone have resources about what I should look out for when purchasing floors? I'm pretty sure there are some actual experts in this area around here - when I got rid of my carpet I did laminate that looks like wood (hardwood isn't allowed in my building, something to do with the subfloor), but I have talked to other people that have done it and this is what I know: humidity - if you live in an area with a lot of humidity changes, sometimes that can cause an issue with hardwood since it will expand and contract. engineered hardwood helps diffuse this issue somewhat. hardness - you want a certain hardness if you have pets so their claws won't cause any damage I also know unfinished hardwood is a good option if you want to make it a custom color, as you can stain it, and you can also stain it something different in the future if you want to change. Also for pricing, I typically saw 3-8/SF for hardwood, depending on type. Any flooring place should be able to give you the exact square footage you want covered, and typically will add 10-15% to that because you need a little extra for waste. Labor costs should be similar to material costs. With mine, it was like 1500 for the flooring, and then with the other materials, like base layer, thresholds, etc. it was 2500, and the labor cost was about the same. I was able to return some extra unused planks to get a few hundred bucks back. I would probably start by just going to a flooring store, or a home depot, or whatever and get samples of whatever piques your interest. Then place them in various positions around your home, like against the mouldings, partly underneath rugs and furniture, etc. any flooring place should be able to come by and give you a free estimate, where they will use fancy laser things to give you an exact measurement of your space. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Apr 9, 2021 |
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Apr 9, 2021 21:16
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yeah I mean, there are more expensive laminates, and there are cheaper hardwoods, but on average hardwood is going to be quite a bit more than laminate. My laminate was 1.79/SF. Obviously the bigger the space, the bigger the total price difference will be. just curious, what was the cost/SF for the laminate and the hardwood you decided on? where the labor costs similar for installing both?
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Apr 9, 2021 21:35
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alnilam posted:I don't recall exactly, I just thought it would be like, demo and laminate install: 4k, demo and hardwood install: 10k. Instead it was like, laminate 5k, wood 7k. Two grand is nothing to shake a stick at, but it was a lot more attainable than I thought, so we sprang for wood. yeah definitely, decide on what kind of color you want first, and then go from there. Sirotan posted:gently caress yeah it is. I just recently finished redoing my living room and the final part was pulling up the Ram Board and getting to see the floors I refinished for the first time in months. I walk through the room just to admire them. Absolutely the best feature in my house. I'm jealous of your smooth ceiling. I like the upper moulding since you don't have soffits.
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Apr 9, 2021 22:34
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Yooper posted:I'll dig into wood and wood like flooring a bit. I just want to clarify something, there are laminates that have waterproofing now, which is what I got (for mine it's called AquaSeal). https://www.llflooring.com/p/aquaseal-12mm-golden-gate-oak-laminate-flooring-10046497.html My floor is also pretty thick (12mm) which I found is nice having a dog just for noise reduction. I have yet to notice any sort of abrasion due to her nails. I haven't had any issues with the waterproof part - if my dog has an accident that I don't discover right away, there's no issue with cleaning it up, and also I can wet mop the floor without any issues, which is nice (I've been using a swiffer wet jet, but will probably get one of those Bona spray mops soon) Now despite the waterproof part, I would definitely not put it in an area with constant moisture, like a kitchen or bathroom! actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Apr 10, 2021 |
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Apr 10, 2021 18:17
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Yooper posted:
For luxury vinyl plank, there is one major issue that can come up, which is damage from direct sunlight exposure. I have read some people will install certain types of window treatments just to avoid this https://cleanfax.com/hard-floor-care/luxury-vinyl-lvt-kryptonite/ (check out the pics)
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Apr 10, 2021 18:29
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Yooper posted:It is surprisingly resistant to abrasion, my local flooring store lets you take a belt sander to it for a few seconds. Very interesting in regards to the LVP, thermal stability can be a bitch. It's one reason I like the engineered hardwood, you get two directions of strand orientation to help with this. I never looked into engineered hardwood at the time, but I assume that it is less susceptible to humidity issues than regular hardwood. My main concern would be the same though, basically if I leave home, dog pees on floor, I come back several hours later - does it just soak in permanently? Though I did notice that at the place I want, there is an "aquaseal" engineered hardwood as well. However it's only on 3/74 varieties. In general, most of the engineered stuff would have broken the bank for me anyway. It would have added at least 3k to the total cost. Also since you clearly know flooring pretty well, any comments on Bona mops? They seem to be pretty well reviewed for cleaning hard floors. https://us.bona.com/products/Bona--Premium-Spray-Mop-for-Stone--Tile----Laminate-Floors.html I've been trying to find something that scrubs enough to actually get out the little drool puddles that my dog leaves all over the floor (you can only see them when light shines on them). actionjackson fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Apr 10, 2021 |
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Apr 10, 2021 23:08
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I found swiffers don't work well with dog hair and such that inevitably gathers in the corners. It ends up just pushing it around. I also found that if I tried to press hard enough to really get out those spots, the pad would often come loose. For hardwood and moisture, I'm really just wondering about dog urine, since you also have the odor issue. It does sound like it can be quite annoying if not dealt with right away. Sealing helps with this to some degree I think (sealing a floor sounds kind of annoying).
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Apr 11, 2021 03:50
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SkyeAuroline posted:There might be a better thread for this, but: for something that is stable enough that it doesn't need anchoring, you could try this, it's one of blu dot's first ever designs (there's also an eight box version) https://www.bludot.com/chicago-3-box.html this blu dot thing is also cool (there's also a four shelf version) https://hivemodern.com/pages/product12751/happy-day-shelving-3-shelf-unit-blu-dot this isn't a typical bookcase, but is affordable and pretty cool looking - I've seen it in-store. You can add and remove shelves as needed https://www.dwr.com/storage-shelving-bookcases/story-bookcase/2197172.html?lang=en_US this ladder shelving is a cool idea if you want an MCM look https://www.dwr.com/storage-shelving-systems/folk-ladder-shelving/2196211.html?lang=en_US there's this thing https://www.dwr.com/storage-shelving-systems/compile-shelving-system/2527903.html?lang=en_US comedy option https://hivemodern.com/pages/product11496/bookshelf-shiro-kuramata-cappellini
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Apr 12, 2021 17:11
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There was other stuff I was going to suggest but based on price I didn't :p btw I should have linked directly to that blu dot product, because there's actually six color combos https://www.bludot.com/happy-day-shelving-3-shelf.html actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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Apr 12, 2021 19:44
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is it possible to float a sofa perpendicular to the longer room length but off-center without it looking weird? for example, you have a 78" sofa in a 138" x 192" room. If you have it go perpendicular and center it, you only have 30" on each side. That's a bit small (I think 36" is the preferred minimum). but you could do 36"/24", especially if there's something on the adjoining wall on the 24" side anyway. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 00:18
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I agree with the clash of styles, also the floor and backsplash looks like it's had sand poured on it in random places, it's really distracting the flush lighting and white walls are a modern look, but the rest is kind of all over the place the top of the oven isn't flush with the counters, and neither is the sink
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Apr 18, 2021 15:52
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art question - I want to replace this thing on the wall with the art thing in the bottom corner. would you pick 16x20 or 11x14 here? The ikea thing on the wall is 17x19 for reference. I'm also not sure if I should center it between the front and back of the vanity, or have it go over the edge a bit like the ikea thing is currently the vanity is 22" deep edit: better yet, something the other orientation - like 16 w 20 h I think would be better actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Apr 21, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 20:25
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makes sense. i do really like that picture, but I also like this one, which would probably fit better because it has the portrait orientation. 20 w 16 h, black frame, white border also i have several other "tree" pieces so I guess it goes with the theme oops, link https://www.minted.com/product/wall-art-prints/MIN-C4I-GNA/redwood-morning actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Apr 22, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 23:54
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sorry, but I'm kind of confused what I'm looking at here. do you have a picture of the bed?
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Apr 26, 2021 00:14
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I agree with a full partition, how do they typically open? on a track of some sort?
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Apr 26, 2021 01:13
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I get the idea of what you want to do, though for one thing I think the divider will be blocking out a lot of natural light (btw why are there curtains over the blinds? do you sleep during the day? I would just get darker blinds if needed and ditch the curtains, which look strange to me). You are going to have the right window totally blocked off, and some of the light from the upper right window blocked as well. What if instead of having a partition, you flip the bed so the headboard is on the wall without a window? This way there's no light blockage. I would add doors to the front of the wardrobe if you can as it's very cluttered right now, or find a different one that can accommodate all the clothing you have. I figured from your grid that each square is 6x6 inches. From that I put in some generic furniture with the same dimensions (or at least, as close as I could find). I ignored the little closet (?) in the bottom right. An 8x10 rug would work well here under the bed in this new open space, assuming that I'm pretty close with your dimensions (14x16 foot room, bed width around 78")
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Apr 26, 2021 17:58
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I forgot to add the chimney that's in the middle of the left wall which makes it hard to put a bed there. It also feels awkward to walk into a bedroom and immediately have to turn to avoid running into the bed. you could put the head of the bed against the bottom wall then. you have a few options for wardrobe space here. this will leave a lot more open space, and will not block off any light (the other wardrobe I put on top in this image might have to be moved elsewhere). actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Apr 26, 2021 |
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Apr 26, 2021 20:49
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true counter depth 24" deep fridges are not really a thing in the US unless you are looking at really high-end brands (subzero, thermador, etc.). counter depth typically is in the 28-30 range the deepest 36" "counter depth" fridge home depot sells is about 26 3/4" deep https://www.homedepot.com/b/Appliances-Refrigerators/Counter-Depth/36-Inch-Wide/N-5yc1vZc3piZ1z196zcZ1z1a95q this is an unfortunate side effect of the Euro kitchen model only really being adopted in really expensive kitchens to this point (i.e. one with built-in appliances). Also I'm sure US kitchens are substantially larger on average, in which case people don't care about a fridge sticking out as much. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 26, 2021 |
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Apr 26, 2021 21:56
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This is going to be my new bathroom floor tile (my current floor is hideous). I don't think I want to do a regular grid pattern, any thought on 1/2 offset vs. 1/3? The bathroom is pretty small and the tiles are 12x24". It seems like the visual effect of the 1/3 might not really be that noticeable in such a small space though (the sort of "ladder" of vertical lines as you look across horizontally).
actionjackson fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Apr 27, 2021 |
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Apr 27, 2021 03:33
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AFewBricksShy posted:That's often called a basket weave pattern. thanks for the replies, I'm pretty much looking to go with the 1/3 or 1/2 offset. herringbone feels a bit more retro to me, like chevron, for some reason. just to be clear, are you suggesting 1/3? it's a small bathroom (only buying 48 SF of tile) if that matters.
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Apr 27, 2021 18:21
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AFewBricksShy posted:The Tile Council of North America, as well as the manufacturers, will suggest 1/3. thanks!
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Apr 27, 2021 18:39
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this one is pretty dope, too bad the fridge isn't counter depth but I suppose that would make the side wall look weird
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Apr 28, 2021 01:13
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that's a nice toilet I'm going to see about having an electrician put in a new outlet behind mine (I'll be getting a new toto toilet along with the new tile) so I can use something beyond the most basic bidet seat
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Apr 28, 2021 14:07
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I'm guessing they are using standard backer board I have a 2.5x6 mat that covers most of the area I walk on https://www.dwr.com/bath-bathroom-accessories/nodi-cotton-bathmat/2516273.html?lang=en_US edit: no I did not pay $170 for that!!! haha definitely an outlet purchase actionjackson fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Apr 29, 2021 |
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Apr 29, 2021 01:50
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AFewBricksShy and others maybe you will have some thoughts on this My mirror is cracked due to me being stupid, and it's 42x48 which is not a standard size at all. The vanity top only has a very short backsplash, so there is about 2.5 inches between that and the bottom of the mirror currently (see pic). The closest size I can find that is still 48" wide so that it matches the vanity width is 36" high, so that would then be an 8.5 inch gap. Do you think that size would look fine if I put in a backsplash? The backsplash area goes to the wall on the right side, and is open on the left. I could reduce the height of that area of course if I moved the top of the mirror down, but I don't really want to do that because it's a good position for my height.
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Apr 29, 2021 15:38
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Booley posted:Pretty much any glass store should be able to cut you a mirror to whatever size you want. I'll get a few estimates, thanks edit: there are also some good circular frameless options that are quite affordable. Might be nice to have something that isn't rectangular in there. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fab-Glass-and-Mirror-Medium-Round-Beveled-Glass-Mirror-36-in-H-x-36-in-W-799456351780/304231697 edit: I "drew" on the 36" and 42" diameter size. consider me the black box :p I think 36" would work fine 
actionjackson fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Apr 29, 2021 |
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Apr 29, 2021 16:30
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AFewBricksShy posted:Would a $4 glass cutter, a straight edge and a nice flat work surface be the easiest thing? easiest for someone who knows what they are doing? sure. for me? doubt it. and having someone else involved will make it cost at least as much as just getting a new mirror. I think part of it also is I figure with someone come in to repaint, including fixing up and repainting that wall, and with my other bathroom changes, it's a good time to make a change. And the round mirrors are very affordable. I also do like that a round mirror would introduce a shape to the bathroom that isn't rectangular, like everything else is. https://www.fabglassandmirror.com/mirrors/wall-mirror-round If this wasn't an option I'd definitely have it cut, probably by someone who knows what they are doing. I have no idea how much a good mirror is supposed to cost - the room and board ones are like 600 wtf actionjackson fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Apr 30, 2021 |
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Apr 30, 2021 14:38
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seems like the 30" round with beveled edge might work well. The light fixture is 27.5" wide, and the sink is 20" wide. It obviously needs to be wider than the sink, but I think it needs to be at least a bit wider than the light as well.
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May 3, 2021 22:16
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what size is the sofa and rug in that picture? I agree that a chair is needed on the side of the rug farther from the window I would check how much article will charge you to return the sofa if you don't like it. Buying sofas without trying them first is generally not the greatest idea, but see what they say. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:03 on May 6, 2021 |
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May 6, 2021 17:46
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don't do anything with the rug until you figure out the couch situation. do you want leather or fabric? You can get a really good 86" fabric sofa for under 3k. My sofa in the 92" version with the really nice maharam fabric is 2500 https://www.bludot.com/the-new-standard-92-sofa.html you want at least six inches of rug on each side, so if you get another 86" rug, the smallest size to get would be 6x9. With a sofa like the one you linked to where there's space between the floor and the seat, you can have it go under the legs 3-6" so you can see both the rug and the floor underneath the sofa seating. A reading lamp or arc-style lamp would work well on the side of the sofa closer to the balcony door. also definitely pull the sofa out from the wall, try 3-4" to start
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May 6, 2021 18:09
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Inner Light posted:Great advice thanks! I think 92" is a liiiitttle on the big side vs. 86", the couch in that photo might be 92" for all I know. I feel it might cut into the space available for a small dining table next to the breakfast bar. I will try to decide.... take some measurements of the room, it will make it much easier, for starters what is the length from the balcony door to those stools, and what is the width wall-to-wall and what size/shape dining table do you want?
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May 6, 2021 18:23
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I might do a smaller table if you are going to keep the stools there as it would get cluttered. Since the room is 14' wide, I'd prob do an 8x10 rug, but it depends on what you are going to put on the rug and their size (coffee table, chairs). It also depends on the size/shape of the dining table. I do think circular or oval might be better because the other big stuff in the room is all rectangular. here's just a bare bones outline of 14x19, with a bunch of ugly furniture that is sized as follows: 86" sofa, 8x10 rug, 5 foot wide tv stand. That circle at the bottom is a 54" diameter table for scale. I have a similarly sized "living room" but it's two feet narrower, and similar length, and a 6x9 rug works well there. So I think that 8x10 will be best for you. What furniture for this room do you already have that you 100% want to use? If for example you have a decent sized coffee table, you could do one armchair at the "bottom center" of the rug, and one angled at the top right corner. This avoids an issue I need to remedy, which is having too many things go the same direction as the longer wall. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:31 on May 7, 2021 |
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May 7, 2021 01:26
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pointsofdata posted:I'd swear Japan is like 20 years more advanced than the rest of the world when it comes to all aspects of bathroom technology I got my new toto toilet and I agree and the one piece design is just so much nicer than two piece actionjackson fucked around with this message at 16:01 on May 15, 2021 |
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May 15, 2021 15:57
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holy gently caress hahahahahahahahahahaha
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May 15, 2021 16:16
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a) what in the hell is that insanely distracting sheer b) why is the 1470 dollar remote stand holding toilet paper instead where is the remote why would you have toilet paper when you have a bidet toilet
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May 15, 2021 18:29
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gwrtheyrn posted:Because the dryer function on them are basically worthless? I'll have to see how mine does, but you would think for 17.5k dollars it would have a good dryer but in either case, that's a stand for the remote control, so I'm not sure where the remote control is haha
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May 15, 2021 19:29
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I'm going to prove you wrong Just gave away all my tp
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May 16, 2021 04:25
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Joe Chip posted:I need a new chair for reading but I can't find anything I like. I looked at The Chair (Eames) but it's need to know budget? fabric or leather? will it be stand alone or do you want one that has a matching ottoman?
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Jun 3, 2021 21:06
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Joe Chip posted:I'm thinking something less than $3k, leather preferred but fabric is ok, and a matching ottoman would be nice but isn't a must have I would start here, see if they have anything that looks interesting, and then go check them out in store if you have a room and board in your area. quite a few of these have matching ottomans. https://www.roomandboard.com/catalog/living/chairs
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Jun 4, 2021 01:50
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