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Apr 5, 2024 05:14
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Has anyone had success printing minis with a bambulabs p1s? I get a remarkably high failure rate using a profile I found on Reddit, but the parts that do print look really good. I'm wondering if anyone has any tweaks, or a different profile, they can recommend.
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Apr 5, 2024 19:47
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Slap us with some pics and deets on how they fail, and we can probably help you figure it out. (I wouldn't be surprised if either curling and/or poor buildplate adherence were the culprit.) I usually go ham on the support base radius to give the prints increased surface area on the build plate. I've had my printer launch a mini out of the machine due to some supports, or the print curling up a bit, for example. I think the thin layers (0.05-0.1mm) and long layer print times (lower fan speed) worsen curling issues, but then again I've never been 100% sure on what causes it.
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Apr 5, 2024 21:28
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I printed the white knight-looking guy here on my Bambu X1C, just using one of the stock profiles (0.12 layer height I think) and quality filament. I haven't tried printing more intricate minis though (stuff with lots of islands, thin areas, etc)
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Apr 5, 2024 21:58
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SubNat posted:Slap us with some pics and deets on how they fail, and we can probably help you figure it out. Roger that. The failures are usually in the limbs, so I'm willing to bet you're right that it's a build plate adhesion issue. I've been using the auto support width, but most things I print end up one-legged. Just started a print, and added a raft to see if it ups the adhesion, and I'll test out another with a wider support brim. I'll get some pics uploaded in the morning. Thanks!
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Apr 6, 2024 01:26
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https://imgur.com/vsAaXS3 Well, that worked fantastic. Once I upped the support brim width, I got a perfect print. Thanks so much!
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Apr 6, 2024 14:03
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I'm looking for STLs that are similar to GW's ruins - various L-shaped buildings in different sizes and states of disrepair. I've got Warlayer's STLs already, but they don't really work well on second stories, as they lack sufficient lip to put a floor onto. Anybody have something similar?
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Apr 8, 2024 16:01
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They're more influenced by the 3rd edition ruins, but these might do the trick.
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Apr 8, 2024 16:49
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Anyone know any miniatures that have the same kind of biomechanical feel as the combine synthetic in half life 2? I'm looking for a very specific feel but most biomechanical stuff for 3d printing is of the doom meat and metal variety.
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Apr 12, 2024 00:48
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A pic would probably help but Papsikels does a lot of weird stuff.
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Apr 12, 2024 01:09
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drat, found a model I really liked for my D&D campaign only to find out after a print failure that the original file isn't "hollowed" like a normal printed model, it's made with stupidly thin walls and greebles on the outside hanging off nothing. Guess it was supposed to be a digital model for a game or something but it's basically useless for printing.
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Apr 12, 2024 01:17
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ShineDog posted:Anyone know any miniatures that have the same kind of biomechanical feel as the combine synthetic in half life 2? I'm looking for a very specific feel but most biomechanical stuff for 3d printing is of the doom meat and metal variety. The Makers Cult has a Dark Techno (Chaos Mechanicus) army that might fit.
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Apr 12, 2024 01:24
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bird food bathtub posted:drat, found a model I really liked for my D&D campaign only to find out after a print failure that the original file isn't "hollowed" like a normal printed model, it's made with stupidly thin walls and greebles on the outside hanging off nothing. Guess it was supposed to be a digital model for a game or something but it's basically useless for printing. There were a lot of ZBrush models exported as STL in the earlier days of printing. And it was a pain in the rear end when someone found you had a printer and asked you to print it, because it invariably printed like poo poo, even if it was manifold enough for the slicer to handle it. Someone with some skills should be able to tweak and solidify that for you, and you can then hollow it appropriately and possibly get a decent print out of it.
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Apr 12, 2024 12:09
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AlexDeGruven posted:There were a lot of ZBrush models exported as STL in the earlier days of printing. And it was a pain in the rear end when someone found you had a printer and asked you to print it, because it invariably printed like poo poo, even if it was manifold enough for the slicer to handle it. Would take someone a lot smarter than me, I am a super novice at Blender. The model has a "skin" of decorations just hanging out in midair that look super cool and like exactly what I want but turn into paper thin pockets of trapped uncured resin. I first tried to reverse the normals on the skin and boolean my way through it hoping to get lucky only to have that not work because there's a skeleton type thing underneath that interfered with it. Then I looked around YouTube university and found a video that had a technique for making the walls thicker and chucking it in a slicer that auto-fixes .stls. Sounded promising but the walls got thicker in both direction and it turned into a potato.
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Apr 12, 2024 13:56
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lol, sounds about right
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Apr 12, 2024 14:17
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ShineDog posted:Anyone know any miniatures that have the same kind of biomechanical feel as the combine synthetic in half life 2? I'm looking for a very specific feel but most biomechanical stuff for 3d printing is of the doom meat and metal variety. Poke around in dork factory. Some of their older stuff especially https://www.myminifactory.com/users/dorkfactory
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Apr 12, 2024 15:19
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bird food bathtub posted:Would take someone a lot smarter than me, I am a super novice at Blender. The model has a "skin" of decorations just hanging out in midair that look super cool and like exactly what I want but turn into paper thin pockets of trapped uncured resin. I first tried to reverse the normals on the skin and boolean my way through it hoping to get lucky only to have that not work because there's a skeleton type thing underneath that interfered with it. Then I looked around YouTube university and found a video that had a technique for making the walls thicker and chucking it in a slicer that auto-fixes .stls. Sounded promising but the walls got thicker in both direction and it turned into a potato. Have you tried running it through Windows 3d builder? That has fixed 99.9% of broken models that I've dealt with.
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Apr 12, 2024 17:30
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Bucnasti posted:Have you tried running it through Windows 3d builder? That has fixed 99.9% of broken models that I've dealt with. Could give it a try. It's not "broken" exactly, all of the geometry is manifold. There's no holes, nothing crossing through itself and turning things inside out, nothing like that I could find. It's just apparently not a model that was made to be a physical entity and more of a video game model I guess? https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/armoured-robot It's this thing if anyone's looking for details. The ankles were the first thing I came across that broke when it was a physical print. There's the thin "skin" of the feet, a few orbs for decoration, and then nothing internally until you get a little bit further up past the ankle where there's a column that defines the skeleton. So the entire model is resting on empty ankles full of uncured resin that snap and make a mess. I don't know enough about 3D animation to be certain but I *think* all the animation would attach to the skeleton and everything else would just be along for the ride and to look pretty and that's what makes me think it was originally intended as a purely digital model?
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Apr 12, 2024 17:57
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Out of curiosity, what's the power consumption of 3D printers like? I've been looking it up and it seems like it should be fairly low, on the region of a TV, and it certainly makes sense that that's the case to me, but I wanted to check while we're trying to work out why our electricity usage has apparently spiked recently.
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Apr 12, 2024 18:30
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spectralent posted:Out of curiosity, what's the power consumption of 3D printers like? I've been looking it up and it seems like it should be fairly low, on the region of a TV, and it certainly makes sense that that's the case to me, but I wanted to check while we're trying to work out why our electricity usage has apparently spiked recently. I would imagine that it is very different based on FDM or Resin. Having to keep the bed and nozzle hot maybe (I'm completely guessing!) uses a heap more electricity than turning on / off the LCD.
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Apr 12, 2024 18:53
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A prusa MK3 consumes between 80W and 120W, depending on settings, etc.
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Apr 12, 2024 19:18
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If your resin printer has a heated vat or a heat strip it will also use a fair bit more power, if the heating is needed. It can be difficult to ascertain for sure though, especially with seasonal changes and HVAC and heating systems kicking on/off, if they are electric. Typical anything that generates heat uses a fair bit of power.
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Apr 12, 2024 23:32
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I was printing some paint-pot racks and got this weird almost-failure:  It seems like the walls aren't adhering properly to the base in those areas and are getting ripped loose when the build plate retracts, maybe? I've printed three of these racks now and they've all had this problem. It has not caused complete failure in any of the prints but it's puzzling. Inspecting the .stl and the sliced file there don't seem to be any gaps or holes, it's very simple geometry.
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Apr 14, 2024 15:03
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How old is your FEP? It could be exerting too much downward pull, but not enough to tear it off completely. Which reminds me that I need to change mine.
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Apr 14, 2024 16:06
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Kylaer posted:I was printing some paint-pot racks and got this weird almost-failure: So it looks like bloom to me. Are there any drainage holes in the model at all? It looks like the walls of the holder are wide enough that they are hollow. I think you are getting suction issues because of this. You can see that the striations change right at the same level the first outer wall area encloses. I think you could place some non visible drainage holes on the inside faces and that would alleviate the problem.
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Apr 14, 2024 20:55
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The FEP is brand-new, these are the first things I printed after changing it. I did figure it was somehow sticking to the film. The base has holes in it but it's constructed flush on the build plate, there aren't any supports or gaps, so until it gets knocked loose the holes don't actually lead anywhere. I'll add some holes in the lower sidewalls and see if that affects it, those should allow pressure to equalize and prevent suction events.
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Apr 14, 2024 23:09
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Elegoo Saturn 4 goes up for preorder tomorrow. It seems like a good deal?
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Apr 15, 2024 00:46
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:finally got around to putting some paint on these dungeon block tiles. they take paint pretty well. surprised how good the detail holds up in fdm, im used to printing sla everything. only place it's not great is stuff like the water, and the beds kinda. but even the beds look dece That's amazing! Pretty much exactly how I'm hoping to paint mine up. Are you using contrast paints for the colored objects, or is it all just dry-brushing over black?
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Apr 17, 2024 02:19
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What are the "customize a model" sites out there? I know Hero Forge is the big one but I thought a few contenders had come out more recently.
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Apr 18, 2024 12:25
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BabelFish posted:That's amazing! Pretty much exactly how I'm hoping to paint mine up. Are you using contrast paints for the colored objects, or is it all just dry-brushing over black? hey thanks! yeah, i do a 3 part dry brush straight over black, no primer. then speed paints over the dry brush for coloured objects. super fast and the result is pretty good
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Apr 18, 2024 13:11
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Springfield Fatts posted:What are the "customize a model" sites out there? I know Hero Forge is the big one but I thought a few contenders had come out more recently. https://creator.eldritch-foundry.com/ and https://titancraft.com/ (previously desktop hero) are the two I'm aware of. Never used them and they seem.. worse.
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Apr 22, 2024 14:11
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Kylaer posted:The FEP is brand-new, these are the first things I printed after changing it. I did figure it was somehow sticking to the film. The base has holes in it but it's constructed flush on the build plate, there aren't any supports or gaps, so until it gets knocked loose the holes don't actually lead anywhere. Have you had any success with the prints? Do you think you were able to isolate the issue?
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Apr 22, 2024 20:52
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I ended up trying some wedge-shaped area on the inside of the pieces, bracing the floor to the sidewalls, and that mostly got rid of the issue. I think lateral holes would have worked better but I'd already done the wedges and they printed well enough.
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Apr 22, 2024 21:31
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I made something really dumb that stuck in my head. Going to print these guys off and see if there's any way I can actually work them into photos of stuff.    I like the idea of using these guys to point to e.g. my little miniature dungeon paintings, but I don't know much about photography and will probably struggle with focus and poo poo, but it's fun to mess with.
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Apr 23, 2024 22:28
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Hate to be that guy, but can you share the stl's? They seem good for a laugh or two.
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Apr 24, 2024 13:29
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