|
Thread rule: People can post just about anything to one of these 3d printing file share sites, please refrain from sharing anything NSFW, or that may be violating copyright. Welcome to the wonderful world of 3d printing! Printers have been around for a while now, but its only recently that high quality prints are possible with even the cheaper printers. There is a great general thread in the hobbies subforum, but 3d printing can do a lot, and here we’re gonna focus on how 3d printing can help you on the tabletop. A printer is a great tool for making everything from miniatures to terrain to game pieces. What is a 3d printer? Pretty much every 3d printer falls into one of two major categories: FDM and SLA. FDM stands for fused deposition modeling, and in practice, involves a printer that is pretty much a computer guided hot-glue gun. You have a spool of plastic filament that is fed through a heated nozzle while a computer tells the nozzle where to move. This method of printing makes for much more jack of all trades machines, and while it doesn’t have the best quality, you can often print much larger objects on cheaper printers. A big thing to consider with this type of printing is the thickness of each layer of plastic you lay down, more often referred too the resolution of a print. A thicker layer may cut down on print time, but larger layers leave more noticeable lines between layers. These lines can be a pain to deal with, and can cause major issues with finely detailed objects. SLA stands for stereolithography, but its more commonly just called resin printing. Special resin that hardens when exposed to UV light replaces a filament, and instead of a moving nozzle, you have a flat surface that moves up and down. This flat surface, called the build plate, is raised and lowered into a vat of the resin, and the resin is hardened layer by layer into the shape of whatever is being printed. This kind of printing can produce extremely detailed prints with ease, but the resin is messy and can be dangerous if handled improperly. This method is also more often better suited for smaller objects, primarily due to the fact that most resin printers that would be considered budget are pretty small. They do make some giant printers now though, big enough to print an entire human sized helmet of your favorite character in a single go. Which printer should I choose? Each of the two kinds of printers have pros and cons, but for the most part, if you are going to be focused exclusively on miniatures, a resin printer should be your first choice. An FDM printer is better for larger objects, like terrain, or things that don’t need to be quite so detailed. That’s not to say that you can’t get great results with an FDM printer, but be prepared to be tuning your printer for many hours before you get results that are easy with a resin printer. That being said, if you expect to print stuff that needs to be more durable, you may want to stay away from resin. Once cured, it can be very brittle, making it a poor choice for functional prints. There is no correct answer though, and what printer works best for you is subjective. For FDM printers, you can get a printer for less than a hundred dollars, but I would save myself the potential headache and go with something like an Ender 3 for about $350. Filament can vary in price drastically, but a 1kg spool of your basic PLA will be between $15-20. Some printers can handle more expensive, higher quality filaments like carbon fiber and whatever, but PLA is a pretty good generic filament for just about every purpose. For resin printers, the best starting point would be something like an Elegoo Mars. Printers like that have been a staple of 3d printing for several years for a good reason. These printers are just about as close to plugging in and it working as a 3d printer gets. Without any sales, this printer typically starts at about $250, with resin costing anywhere from $20 -50 for a liter. Resin printing is a relatively new kid on the commercial 3d printing block, and as such there’s a lot more development here than for FDM. Resin printers also require Where do I find things to print? Once you get a printer and set it up your next step will be to get printing. Your printer should come with files preloaded on whatever thumb drive or SD card the printer uses but if not, your best bet will be one of the classic printer test files. For FDM printing, the go to is a benchy (think benchmark). An equivalent for resin printers is usually a modified rook. If these work on the firs time that is great! But don’t worry if your first few prints don’t come out very good (or don’t come out at all). There is a good infographic in the general printing thread in Hobbies related to troubleshooting a benchy, and one of the big benefits of the community all deciding to test with these files means that a lot, and I mean a lot, of time has been spent figuring out what every possible problem could be caused by. A quick google search should be all that you need to figure out the possible root issues causing whatever print problem you ran into. Once you have a test file successfully printed, you’re ready to move on to printing whatever you want. In my experience, this can be very overwhelming. There are a bunch of sites people use to share files for printing, and thousands and thousands of files on each of them. Most of these files can be split into two categories: paid and free. Some sites only do free files, but most have a mix of free and paid files available. Personally, I really like MyMiniFactory for tabletop stuff. As the name implies, they have a much bigger focus on printing for the tabletop than some of the other sites. A lot of the stuff there is paid, but they have pretty frequent sales on some of the biggest creators. They also have a membership option that I myself don’t use, but they offer discounts on printers, supplies and files that may make it worth it for you. The other big place I would recommend getting files from is creators on Patreon. There are a lot of great sculptors out there making great miniatures and terrain pieces, and usually all it takes to get access to them is pledging the right tier. Getting everything from a single creator usually guarantees everything will be scaled properly, and everything will be in the same style. This may not be a big deal for you, but if you want an entire set of miniatures that all go well together, this may be the best place for you to look. A lot of times these creators also have their stuff on MyMiniFactory or another site, which makes it easy to find new creators you might like.
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2021 23:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 14:15 |
|
|
This is a pretty cool thread idea. As a traditional sculptor, I’ve been working on getting to grips with 3d design software. It’s definitely a different beast, and I’m hoping to provide some insight into the digital sculpting realm when I can. For design software: Zbrush is pretty much the industry standard, and while a full subscription or software package is expensive, it’s definitely worth it. Blender is an okay free alternative, although it has a somewhat wonky interface at times comparatively.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 02:23
|
|
|
My background is in the engineering modeling software so using something like zbrush is scary to me. That being said I have printed models that friends of mine have sculpted and it's really cool to go from the obj file to a physical object.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 04:22
|
|
|
Are 3D printers like airbrushes, in that there are consistently sales at certain times of year that you should wait for if you want to buy one? I'm slowly edging towards getting something like an Elegoo Mars to produce parts for conversions and, eventually, terrain, but I'd just as easily wait a while if it means saving 30% or something like that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 09:37
|
|
|
I bought an Ender 3 last year and have been printing up a ton of terrain pieces. Jumping in on Kickstarters is a great way to get a bunch of matched STLs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 12:29
|
|
|
MeinPanzer posted:Are 3D printers like airbrushes, in that there are consistently sales at certain times of year that you should wait for if you want to buy one? I'm slowly edging towards getting something like an Elegoo Mars to produce parts for conversions and, eventually, terrain, but I'd just as easily wait a while if it means saving 30% or something like that. Yes, absolutely. Not sure about the specific times but you'll definitely be able to find a good sale on them.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 14:02
|
|
|
MeinPanzer posted:Are 3D printers like airbrushes, in that there are consistently sales at certain times of year that you should wait for if you want to buy one? I'm slowly edging towards getting something like an Elegoo Mars to produce parts for conversions and, eventually, terrain, but I'd just as easily wait a while if it means saving 30% or something like that. I know that places like MyMiniFactory have a deal if you order through them. Its a specially branded Elegoo mars pro. Otherwise a quick glance at Newegg makes it seem like they have a pretty good selection of printers, and I would assume that they would go on sale in their general site wide sales.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 15:50
|
|
|
Realized I should probably show off some of the stuff I've been working on. I printed these up a little bit ago, assault intercessors for scale. Next step is a quick wash and then I'm going to make some green stuff vines so they look overgrown.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2021 23:30
|
|
|
Are there any paid STL providers that have particularly good/bad stuff? I know we were eschewing print things that are basically just ripping off 40k etc. but I want to know about the cool new creative sculpts people are making. I don't really have the space now but once I move into the new spot later this year I'm going to try and set up a printer farm and start with 1 but maybe expand to 2 or more FDM printers (I'm super leery on the smell/noxious fumes that SLA gives off). I'd like to have them going printing out neat things useful for miniatures gaming. I'd also like to see if there are any other accessories that might make sense for someone just getting into things. I came across the Youtube channel 3D Printed Tabletop awhile ago and while the dude has taken breaks he is finding his groove on content creation and put up a really great video on free-ish projects to help get started: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVZXG0fxTl0 I particularly like the beer stein holder for water bottles / cans. Whenever I start hosting again I would love to make coasters and other game component trays + containers for more complex board games like TI4 and such as well as minis, dice towers, status markers etc. How durable are prints to use when building other things with them? I'm thinking like 3D printing boxes with pin hinges that would be great for a tiny game parts storage chest, or angle brackets to hold up small miniature display shelves. I've seen other examples where people made coat hangers and stuff, so perhaps it might make sense to make 3D printed things for, I dunno, making an actual full on piece of gaming furniture?
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2021 08:23
|
|
|
Off the top of my head the site I like the least is Yeggi but I think they’re mostly free. For paid stuff I particularly like MyMiniFactory since they have a pretty robust tabletop section and they also spotlight Kickstarter projects and other creators like that. There’s a creator called Artisan guild who makes pretty cool fantasy mini collections, usually one bundle a month. Last one was a skeleton themed one. They always include something they call a “pinup model”, which I think is dumb so I never print it. I tried the anycubic eco resin a little while back that I would highly recommend if you have smell concerns. It’s quite a bit more expensive but it’s completely biodegradable in a compost cause it’s made from soy. Accessory wise coasters are really simple, and they can be a great test print to make sure you have your settings just right before you start doing bigger more detailed things. Assuming you have your settings correct and you don’t have any issues with under extrusion or something the prints are pretty strong on an FDM printer. Depending on the size of the shelves you could run into problems but I’ve definitely seen people make stuff like that, and boxes you can for sure make especially if you use a metal rod in the hinge instead of doing just plastic
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2021 15:42
|
|
|
One of the things I have also been noticing in the "subscription STL" space is that there are creators making stuff on a regular basis and you can get access to the library if you subscribe on Patreon or whatnot. I unfortunately do not know any specific ones, just that I've heard them mentioned. I'd love to see more tutorials or build logs that are hobby-specific or just cool 3D printed results for screenshots like the sci-fi tower. I'm particularly interested in modular terrain (dungeon tiles, multi-level scenery, etc) and scatter terrain to put onto an already existing hex grid, but also any game specific things. I think part of what I struggle with a bit is "just what kinds of things can I print, since I can theoretically print anything that I can think of"?
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2021 17:35
|
|
|
FDM stuff can be pretty drat durable, provided it's well-engineered in the first place. If you crank up your fill rate, you're basically printing a solid lump of plastic that's melted together. I wouldn't use the El Cheapo PLA special to turn out structural parts for your car or anything, but making an angle bracket ain't no thing. Moving parts like a pin and hinge may not be a great long term solution, depending on how they're put together. Compressibility is great, shear strength is pretty good, but friction on interior parts can be a problem. You could always just build a box and then attach a cheap hinge to it if you think it's gonna be used all the time, of course. Resin's good for cosmetic stuff and that's about it. I'd never use it for anything structural.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2021 18:28
|
|
|
I'm a big fan of Maker's Cult. Most of their stuff is fun alternative takes on 40k stuff, like cyborg Tyranids, feudal imperial guard, etc. Although clearly designed to be 40k compatible, all of it is original designs that don't violate copyright. https://www.cgtrader.com/themakerscult Printable scenery has a absolute ton of extremely high quality scenery. https://www.printablescenery.com/ Artisan Guild has a huge range of high quality miniatures https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Artisan_Guild Archvillain games does fabuluous miniatures with accompanying dnd supplements https://www.myminifactory.com/users/ArchvillainGames
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2021 18:33
|
|
|
Re: Resin durability. Resin is very fragile and tends to break easily. It is fine for miniatures, but I'd never use it for terrain.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2021 18:34
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:Resin's good for cosmetic stuff and that's about it. I'd never use it for anything structural. Yeah they have some more flexible resin that is not quite as brittle but I wouldn't use resin for much besides miniatures and other highly detailed stuff. Even for miniatures sometimes a spear or something will be so brittle that it will break from handling. Edit: Something that is worth noting about MyMiniFactory is that they do huge sales all the time. If you do see something you like, I would wait for one of them cause they will sometimes have huge discounts, like 50% off of an entire catalog. The Baumann fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Mar 26, 2021 |
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2021 18:38
|
|
|
So, in a happenstance, someone near me is selling four Flashforge Creator Pro units with spare nozzles at 250 per printer, so I'm considering just diving in and buying all 4. With the initial outlay comparable to buying a Prusa i3 but with a larger build quantity per rotation, should there be any considerations for operating at scale? Do a test print of a model on every printer before scaling up production? I could see this potentially being useful to build a large amount of terrain in a fairly short amount of time. Scatter terrain and reconfigurable snap terrain will be pretty good to print, but in watching more videos I notice that the main issues seem to stem from printing too much in one pass or low temperature causing nozzles to jam, particularly towards the end of a print. Anyway: - is this a good deal, or should i chill? MSRP on this unit is about 1000 USD, so it's 75% off - any pitfalls for just going into the deep end with these things - what are things to build a bunch of that are useful
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2021 02:12
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:So, in a happenstance, someone near me is selling four Flashforge Creator Pro units with spare nozzles at 250 per printer, so I'm considering just diving in and buying all 4. With the initial outlay comparable to buying a Prusa i3 but with a larger build quantity per rotation, should there be any considerations for operating at scale? Do a test print of a model on every printer before scaling up production? Well if one is a thousand getting four for that price is an amazing deal. Spare nozzles are always nice to have, they don't last forever and you will have to change one eventually. My main printer now is an i3 mk3s, and I haven't had any issues with it outside of printing some huge things that I was able to get around with some clever splitting of models. Anything that's in the ballpark is going to be more than good for 95% of things. My advice if you get them would be set up one to start, get that working nicely and then set the other ones up. I don't know much about the flashforge but with any printer you're going to have to do some calibrations and general setup and fixes before you get consistent nice prints. Print a Benchy, see how that goes and then tweak that printer. I think getting to know what you're doing working one at a time will be better than trying to juggle 4 at once. The times I've had issues with jamming the problem was usually from swapping out plastics wrong. I would recommend getting some thin wire to clear any jams you may have. An old toothbrush is great to have as well for cleaning the outside of the nozzle. Another thing you should definitely get is some glue sticks. I personally like the Elmer's Glue purple ones, but anything will work as long as its water washable. In my experience its the best for any bed adhesion problems you may have, plus it's cheap and they carry it everywhere. As for what to print, I've been working on my 40k terrain recently and I really really like the stuff here: https://warlayer.com/products/tower-city This is where I got the files for those towers I posted a picture of before. They also have a pretty neat looking modular building package but I have yet to play around with any of it: https://warlayer.com/products/warlayer-4-0-late-pledge-bundle If you're going more for a fantasy route there are a ton of things that go better with that flavor too. You can never have too many trees.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2021 03:31
|
|
|
Yeah, I'm gonna spring for it (I think I'm getting 5 instead of 4 printers as a result). I'll have 1 or 2 setup (that's all I have space for) and the rest will go into the garage or storage until I have the new space ready later this year. Interesting thing about the gluesticks, there was a mention of PEI sheets and there were no issues with adhesion, so it sounds like I'll have some time to futz about with the test prints.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2021 03:47
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:Yeah, I'm gonna spring for it (I think I'm getting 5 instead of 4 printers as a result). I'll have 1 or 2 setup (that's all I have space for) and the rest will go into the garage or storage until I have the new space ready later this year. Ah yeah you won't need it with PEI. It's mostly a necessity with steel or glass buildplates. With PEI just be careful with your leveling not to go too far into the material. The hot end can dig into the sheets in a way it couldn't with glass. If that happens you will have a very difficult print to remove.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2021 03:58
|
|
|
Any specific filament brand, etc. to use? I think I want the durability and price per unit isn't a huge deal at the moment since I'm not trying to scale up for selling stuff on Etsy or whatnot (maybe in the future if I have enough to make a print farm at this rate). Also, I know this is purely for vanity purposes, but I think once I do get everything setup I'd like to have a 24/7 feed to keep an eye on the prints and to do cool timelapse videos of something being created out of a piece of plastic silly string.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2021 04:04
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:Any specific filament brand, etc. to use? I think I want the durability and price per unit isn't a huge deal at the moment since I'm not trying to scale up for selling stuff on Etsy or whatnot (maybe in the future if I have enough to make a print farm at this rate). I’ve never done it personally but there are tutorials for time lapse videos. As for filament, it depends what you want. I really like some of the colors of the Prusament line, but depending on where you are it can take a while to have their stuff be delivered. I picked up a set of half kilo spools from aio robotics that I would recommend for people starting out. Nice variety of colors to start with and you can just get full spools of any common colors after you use up the half spool. I would recommend getting a brown spool to go with that though. Brown is such a useful color that it’s hard to print a lot of terrain without it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2021 04:16
|
|
|
The main series of projects that I’d like to do are probably in 3 or so categories: - Ready to use 28mm play aids, so scatter terrain, objective and status markers, minis of different colors to be ready to use as soon as they’re cleaned up to put at the table without needing a paint job (but could, if one so chose), and so on - Table experience enhancers like organization trays, dice towers, coasters or drink holders, push sticks for moving around fiddly bits, and so on - Tools to help enable more complex 3D printing and general organizational stuff. Tool organizers and organizational boxes for bits, brackets and spool dispensers, making another 3d printer or making replacement parts for existing ones, and other various upgrades I’d also like to figure out a way to translate a 2d image or set of images that I have to 3d models that I can then go to 3d print. I’d like to see if there are existing workflows to turn something like a simple token from that 2d image into a 3d model with selective stylistic embossing. The key thing here is using the source image as opposed to creating the whole thing from scratch in Blender or some such. I don’t know what the market is like for creating and selling these kinds of things and even though I’m going in hot with five (another one is getting thrown in) mid to high end 3d printers, I suspect that after I get used to the technology I’m going to want to make it work for me in order to recapture some of the cost. To that end, I’m curious about what people will actually pay for as opposed to what people put up for sale on Etsy as well and somewhere down the line make useful stuff for those wider audiences.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2021 07:41
|
|
|
One thing I would recommend since you have multiple printers is to get one printer set up for detailed stuff. If you have a smaller nozzle on a dedicated printer for minis you can get some nice detail even with an FDM printer. I tried to do the minis thing one time. I'm sure there are others as well but people like this have a huge variety of minis you would need for d&d available: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/dmworkshop But yeah all of those things are very possible. Do you have experience with a solid modeling program? Personally I use Solidworks for things like part trays but anything works. The only thing I can think of that would allow for going from a 2d image to a 3d object would be something like a telephotogrammetry set up. That requires hundreds of images from all different angles though, so having just one to work with won't make anything. In terms of selling I don't have a ton of experience, but a quick glance at etsy seems like d&d related stuff does very well. Depending on what you end up making you could also consider selling just the .stl files as well. Super simple things I wouldn't bother with, but if you make say a whole system of tiles for displaying conditions I'm sure someone would buy it. I just printed up a few pieces of terrain for 40k that I'll be working on more later. I'll take some pics of how they come out.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2021 15:48
|
|
|
Alright, 3d printers acquired, and I ordered a couple of spools of filament and replacement nozzles so I can get one of the printers started. I was recommended by the previous owner to pick up Simplify3D as it's a good program and they can send over their specific profiles for it for a slicer, so I guess for a paid doohickey it is better at doing stuff over Cura or other things out there? Anybody have any experience with this stuff?
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2021 04:46
|
|
|
I'm waiting for power in my shop before I hook my printer back up/buy a new printer, but IIRC S3D was a great program a few years ago that just hasn't kept up with the free alternatives. The new hotness is PrusaSlicer or just a new version of Cura.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2021 16:22
|
|
|
Personally I really like the new versions of Cura and the Prusa Slicer. I don't think there would be a need to pay for an alternative. Also, have some progress pics for some industrial 40k terrain I've been working on.   
The Baumann fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Mar 30, 2021 |
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2021 17:54
|
|
|
I recently picked up a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k printer and after a couple failed prints I've been getting some very solid results!    
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2021 18:05
|
|
|
Those all came out really nice! Are those models presupported?
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2021 18:08
|
|
|
The Baumann posted:Those all came out really nice! Are those models presupported? The rats were presupported, everything else I used autosupports with some small additions wherever I thought they'd need them. Does anyone have advice on how to properly scale models? If they have test models that are in scale with certain games that would be very helpful, the rats are much bigger than 28mm.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2021 18:14
|
|
|
Verisimilidude posted:The rats were presupported, everything else I used autosupports with some small additions wherever I thought they'd need them. It’s a rough method but I usually have a figure I know is the right size and then I’ll scale the other models to that. Otherwise sometimes the sculptor will have what scale the file is in and I’ve done that as a proportion to get to about the right scale.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2021 18:18
|
|
|
About a year and a half ago I picked up Monoprice Mini. Which then broke after 6 months of use. It made decent prints for proxies Battletech minis. But with this last round of stimulus money. I made the plunge into buying an Anycubic Photon Mono. And let me just say it's loving amazing. Never going back to FDM printers.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2021 19:43
|
|
|
Verisimilidude posted:The rats were presupported, everything else I used autosupports with some small additions wherever I thought they'd need them. For my last printer I went to Harbor Freight and bought a digital caliper.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2021 19:44
|
|
|
While I will almost certainly use a printer just to print very stupid models and tabletop junk (and custom parts for very stupid model kits), the other household use would be for printing very stupid things for the truck, bicycles, and impractical tools. I think this means FDM is the only way to go if we’re gonna use one printer. I am a complete newbie at this, but have been reading about printers on and off for the last year or so. It sounds like the Ender 3 Pro would be a great choice, but that is entirely based on guides and advice and not any personal experience. I hate being the first of my close friends to make this plunge and kind of kept hoping a buddy would do all this research for me and I’d just buy what they’d bought. GUIDE ME, GOONS.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2021 19:57
|
|
|
Geekboy posted:While I will almost certainly use a printer just to print very stupid models and tabletop junk (and custom parts for very stupid model kits), the other household use would be for printing very stupid things for the truck, bicycles, and impractical tools. Most people will say that if you have the money for a Prusa, get a Prusa. They're the best hobbyist machines around. Get the kit instead of pre-built, the instructions are awesome and you'll really know your way around the machine by the time you're done. The biggest con is the $750+shipping asking price, though they do run free shipping sales several times per year. https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/ If you're on the sort of budget that doesn't allow you to drop that kind of money, the Ender 3 is usually the next recommended FDM printer. The 3 Pro is slightly older than the 3 V2, and you'll probably spend a bit of time tinkering with them to get them to work. The 3d printing thread in HCH recommended this kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081DN6RM2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&th=1
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2021 23:16
|
|
|
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2646818 Try this calibration model out for size? Test calibration is moving along but I might just start printing stuff and see how it goes. 0.1 layer height is somewhat disastrous. 0.2 is mediocre. Trying 0.3 layer height now at 215C with 25mm/s speed and we'll see if I can print one of these drat cats without any noticeable blemishes in the corners.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 02:20
|
|
|
bbcisdabomb posted:Most people will say that if you have the money for a Prusa, get a Prusa. They're the best hobbyist machines around. Get the kit instead of pre-built, the instructions are awesome and you'll really know your way around the machine by the time you're done. The biggest con is the $750+shipping asking price, though they do run free shipping sales several times per year. I have a Prusa mk3 and I love it. It was my second printer so I had some experience before going in but the kit is actually pretty fun to put together.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 03:27
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2646818 I will! I tried using some other models for reference by printing these goblins  They're a tiny bit too big in comparison to D&D minis, maybe they'd work better size-wise as hobgoblins, but I love the way they look! They're a little faceted in some areas but considering the STLs were free and there's 20+ poses and configurations, I can't complain. Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Apr 2, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 04:52
|
|
|
Thanks for that advice. I’m waffling a bit because we’d probably print bike parts and such once we knew more about what we were doing. So having higher quality is tempting, but we are starting from zero. Absolute beginners. I’d hate to drop $750 and have it sit for 3 years before we move and just ask someone if they want it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 05:18
|
|
|
Geekboy posted:Thanks for that advice. If you’re going to be printing stuff that needs higher strength, look into what the printer is capable of before you make the plunge. A lot of lower budget printers can only really handle PLA, which is a nice all around material, but it isn’t great for outdoor use and it isn’t the best under heat. Some materials are much better for more strenuous applications. One of the nice things about the Prusa is it can handle a pretty big variety of materials and the software has pretty good settings for all of them.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 17:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 14:15 |
|
|
I've been looking at 3D printing and I may well have a space I could set up. I've been eyeing the Mars 2 so far. I'm wondering what kind of ventilation setups people are mostly using? Also, people have mentioned resin being fragile: how fragile are we talking? Like, resin model fragile or more delicate than that?
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2021 21:30
|
|
