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Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
I'd say it's equivalent to resin models, though there are a couple of different resin materials to choose from that will change how flexible it is. I tend to print small scale, and the 6mm tank turret barrels are as fragile in resin as they would be plastic from retail. The model itself can also affect this, as a 28mm model shrunk to 6mm will have thinner components than one designed with smaller scale in mind.

As for ventilation, I find the ipa more offensive than the resin, fwiw.

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Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



does anyone have any good base STLs they can share? I want to start printing some bases but I haven't had any luck finding solid, varied bases for different terrains (for free that is)

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy

spectralent posted:

I've been looking at 3D printing and I may well have a space I could set up. I've been eyeing the Mars 2 so far. I'm wondering what kind of ventilation setups people are mostly using? Also, people have mentioned resin being fragile: how fragile are we talking? Like, resin model fragile or more delicate than that?

I have my printer set up near a window and I have a small desk fan to vent out any fumes. I wear a mask just to be safe but it isn’t a very serious ventilation set up.

Once cured they’re probably pretty standard strength for resin. You have to be careful with thin parts like spears being brittle but they’re not super delicate.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug

Verisimilidude posted:

does anyone have any good base STLs they can share? I want to start printing some bases but I haven't had any luck finding solid, varied bases for different terrains (for free that is)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4789742

Here's a quick one that's sized 32mm rounds but you could rescale. I'm sure digging around some search terms on thingiverse could find others. If you want blank bases you could easily mock up anything you need in tinkercad. I made a movement tray in like 10 minutes.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Springfield Fatts posted:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4789742

Here's a quick one that's sized 32mm rounds but you could rescale. I'm sure digging around some search terms on thingiverse could find others. If you want blank bases you could easily mock up anything you need in tinkercad. I made a movement tray in like 10 minutes.

Awesome, I'll add these to the collection! I may put up a big Google Drive of all the STLs I've collected so far just to keep track of everything.

Had the day off so I spent it printing out some minis and I finished painting some bandits and goblins! I'm impressed with both, but the goblins in particular (like almost everything from that creator) are awesome. They don't have the smoothest detail, but there's over 20 differently posed models of just these specific types of goblins alone, not to mention his orcs, skaven, and more. You could probably make an entire AOS army just with the stuff he has available, and his sculpts are all free!

I'm trying to collect every miniature I would need for a Lost Mines of Phandelver game I plan to run after I get my vaccine, so these will help fill in for the hobgoblins (they might be a touch too big and well-equipped for regular goblins) and redbrand ruffians.


Helical Nightmares
Apr 30, 2009
Saw this deal on r/PrintedMinis, figured someone in this thread may like this.



Over 285 high detailed models for $12 until April 7th. https://www.patreon.com/epic_miniatures

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'
Alright, digging into the weeds more I can see you can buy STL files and then get a license for rights to sell them but it's not standardized thing. I found a great scatter terrain crowdfunding thing on MyMiniFactory by way of Gaminggeek's Youtube channel that is exactly in my wheelhouse for what I would like to print:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mr5pS-4WMmM
https://www.myminifactory.com/crowdfunding/fantastic-plants-and-rocks-vol-2-148

This plus the Patreon above and others means that you can end up with a lot of things to print very quickly, it seems.

On the craft side, so far I have found that printing multiple things at once produces a little better results than printing one thing at once, so I'm going to try an experiment where I print out multiple CaliCats to see if they're not going to suffer from overheating. Since the issue is with the PLA not cooling fast enough after being deposited on the bed, I suspect this may get some okayish results. I did a test print of a cable spool and it turned out great, and I suspect it's due to printing both sides at once instead of just the one side at 100% scale. 212C at 25mm/s with 0.3 layer height on the Flashforge Creator Pro.

I was poking around on Reddit and saw that for 3D minis you may want to consider a couple of things to help making the finishing process a bit easier (and terrain too):

- Heat gun or portable torch to clear away stringing or to correct bridging issues
- A 3D finisher compound like XTC 3D or just a thinned out coat of poly brushed on, then sanded (for priming)
- Any other type of filler putty that can be applied with a working time of more than instant (useful for long continuous surfaces like walls of various sorts)
- Filler primer (can obscure details but also helps hide imperfections)
- Many, many of the regular tools that minis prep normally would have like files, nippers, etc. + sanding sticks of various grits

I figure if I can get something printing to spec with the 0.4 nozzle I have on this thing I won't need to switch to a 0.2 nozzle unless I start really diving into the more esoteric bits of trying to tinker endlessly with this thing. I feel like I'm just a few more steps away from getting table-side prints that will look 3D printed, but otherwise be highly serviceable.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
This going to sound weird, but does anyone have a use for all the waste resin printing creates? It's lovely just tossing all these support structures. I used a few to model 6mm ruins as they surprisingly come off well as fallen skyscrapers with some texture and pigments. And I know it's the same as the pile of sprues you toss when clipping plastic models, but I dunno, it feels different when you're the one making the waste.

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy

Springfield Fatts posted:

This going to sound weird, but does anyone have a use for all the waste resin printing creates? It's lovely just tossing all these support structures. I used a few to model 6mm ruins as they surprisingly come off well as fallen skyscrapers with some texture and pigments. And I know it's the same as the pile of sprues you toss when clipping plastic models, but I dunno, it feels different when you're the one making the waste.

I started using eco resin recently which makes me feel better about the waste. It’s compostable so I just leave it on the side and add it to the pile.

With filament there’s methods of recycling waste which makes getting rid of supports feel better but resin is harder to get rid of cause of how nasty some of the chemicals are.

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy

aldantefax posted:

On the craft side, so far I have found that printing multiple things at once produces a little better results than printing one thing at once, so I'm going to try an experiment where I print out multiple CaliCats to see if they're not going to suffer from overheating. Since the issue is with the PLA not cooling fast enough after being deposited on the bed, I suspect this may get some okayish results. I did a test print of a cable spool and it turned out great, and I suspect it's due to printing both sides at once instead of just the one side at 100% scale. 212C at 25mm/s with 0.3 layer height on the Flashforge Creator Pro.

- Heat gun or portable torch to clear away stringing or to correct bridging issues
- A 3D finisher compound like XTC 3D or just a thinned out coat of poly brushed on, then sanded (for priming)
- Any other type of filler putty that can be applied with a working time of more than instant (useful for long continuous surfaces like walls of various sorts)
- Filler primer (can obscure details but also helps hide imperfections)
- Many, many of the regular tools that minis prep normally would have like files, nippers, etc. + sanding sticks of various grits

I figure if I can get something printing to spec with the 0.4 nozzle I have on this thing I won't need to switch to a 0.2 nozzle unless I start really diving into the more esoteric bits of trying to tinker endlessly with this thing. I feel like I'm just a few more steps away from getting table-side prints that will look 3D printed, but otherwise be highly serviceable.

You may want to look at a better hot end fan if you’re having consistent issues with it. Sometimes the stock parts aren’t the best, I would check if your specific brand has a subreddit dedicated to it. I’m not the biggest fan of Reddit but they can be pretty good for super specific information like that.

Filler primer and putty are great for bigger prints you have to break into multiple parts. I’ve printed a few helmets for cosplay stuff and being able to print in chunks and then cover any seems is really handy.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug

The Baumann posted:

I started using eco resin recently which makes me feel better about the waste. It’s compostable so I just leave it on the side and add it to the pile.

With filament there’s methods of recycling waste which makes getting rid of supports feel better but resin is harder to get rid of cause of how nasty some of the chemicals are.

drat I wish I'd know about this. I just got a bottle of regular grey and happily would of paid more for the eco version. Well, now I know going forward.

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy

Springfield Fatts posted:

drat I wish I'd know about this. I just got a bottle of regular grey and happily would of paid more for the eco version. Well, now I know going forward.

This is what I’ve been using. I don’t print a ton on the resin printer so i don’t use a ton of resin but I’m still more comfortable using this stuff. It’s also not nearly as bad if you get it on your skin which I like.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



The Baumann posted:

This is what I’ve been using. I don’t print a ton on the resin printer so i don’t use a ton of resin but I’m still more comfortable using this stuff. It’s also not nearly as bad if you get it on your skin which I like.

Do you have a link for the brand you use? I’m currently using elegoo resin but wouldn’t mind switching to something a bit safer.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'
Is there any resin printer that actually can be used safely in living compartments or does it all have to be somewhere isolated and ventilated and then handled with nitrile gloves and a buncha safety equipment? I see there are plenty of advantages for SLA prints in the 3d minis space but it also seems like there is a lot of hassle and waste for resin printers.

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy

Verisimilidude posted:

Do you have a link for the brand you use? I’m currently using elegoo resin but wouldn’t mind switching to something a bit safer.

I forgot to link it :doh:

https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Printer-Plant-Based-Precision-Printing/dp/B07YZ78NN3?th=1

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges




Awesome, I'm trying to minimize the danger to myself and my partner (her studio is close to where I keep the printer) so I'll probably be switching to this resin and I'm getting an air purifier for the area. At nearly double the price of what I'm paying now, it's still significantly cheaper than buying minis.

I've been on a printing/painting marathon since I've had this long weekend. I'm gearing up for a Lost Mines of Phandelver game and I want a model for every creature in the campaign.

Here's what I've painted so far. I'm doing mostly quick paint jobs using contrast paints, but some things I'm putting a bit more effort into. The goblins I finished in about 2 hours, giant spider in about 15 minutes, bandits in about an hour, ogre in about 2 hours, zombie and nothic in about 10 minutes.






Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
I got an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro last Christmas and have been printing a ton of minis, I didn't realize we had a thread for it.

Here's some of the minis I've printed:








Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Toebone posted:

I got an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro last Christmas and have been printing a ton of minis, I didn't realize we had a thread for it.

Here's some of the minis I've printed:










Hell yeah these are rad!

Helical Nightmares
Apr 30, 2009


These are sort of uncommon. STLs for Call of Cthulhu 1920s investigators and cultists. For 19 Euro you get the whole set. It's a kickstarter and there are only a few days left!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/adaevycreations/innsmouth-investigators?ref=discovery_recommendations

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
Anyone else subscribe to a mini-printing Patreon? I just started Artisan Guild and have been printing their welcome pack, haven't gotten to the monthly models yet. I think I may dip in and out though, I don't think my painting time will be able to keep up with the amount of stuff you get.

Helical Nightmares
Apr 30, 2009
I've subscribed to Unit9 for their excellently detailed Cyberpunk STLs. I have yet to send away to print them.

https://www.patreon.com/unit9

These are some pictures from the October military batch and the Welcome Pack.










If you subscribe to Unit9 for a month ($10) then you get 50% off their back catalogue at My Mini Factory.

https://www.myminifactory.com/users/UNIT9

Also I ordered some miniatures from Tiger Skull RPG. They turned out quite good. He sells the printed minis in addition to the STL files.

https://www.tigerskullrpg.com/collections/figures

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges






I was a little wary of this sculpt but it actually painted up pretty nice!

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'
Trying Voodoo Stones (all six of them pre-supported) from this terrain mega pack I bought. At 0.2mm with 30% infill the estimate is 17 hours. I just got through a 32 hour print (by mistake, forgot to turn off supports) so I'm hoping by around tomorrow mid-day I'll have myself some ROCKS

Also, I would like a recommendation for containers for gaming stuff. Are there any good ones out there?

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy
Just a note, 30% infill is very much overkill. I typically do like 15%, and I’ll go down to as low as 5 for things that don’t need to be very strong

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


Thinking of buying a photon mono se - i guess just for printing minis the the mono x is overkill because it’s just capable of printing bigger things and not higher quality, right?

also, how useful or necessary is a wash and cure machine? sorry if these are stupid newbie questions

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
Wash and cure machine is nice to have but you can get by with a tupperware or two and a UV source; I use a UV LED strip I got off Amazon that's wrapped around the inside of a cardboard box.

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy
I bought a $50 ultrasonic cleaner off harbor freight and that works great for me. If you put the print in a ziploc bag then you only have to dispose of the liquid in the bag instead of the whole tank.

And for curing yeah I bought some UV led strips and a cheap aluminum pan and made a curing chamber. It’s not as good as leaving them in the sun for a bit but it gets the job done.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


The Baumann posted:

I bought a $50 ultrasonic cleaner off harbor freight and that works great for me. If you put the print in a ziploc bag then you only have to dispose of the liquid in the bag instead of the whole tank.

And for curing yeah I bought some UV led strips and a cheap aluminum pan and made a curing chamber. It’s not as good as leaving them in the sun for a bit but it gets the job done.

i live in ireland so literally anything is going to be a more reliable option than leaving them in the sun for a bit lol

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy
Fair enough, I’m in New York so its not cloudy 300 days of the year. To be fair though it’s not so much about sunlight as it is about UV, which comes through even on cloudy days. If you have some time before you get a curing set up that would work fine.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



I picked up the elegoo curing station for $60 and an ultrasonic cleaner for $40, both on Amazon. I love them both, though they are admittedly small volume-wise.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


The Baumann posted:

Fair enough, I’m in New York so its not cloudy 300 days of the year. To be fair though it’s not so much about sunlight as it is about UV, which comes through even on cloudy days. If you have some time before you get a curing set up that would work fine.
oh cool - I guess my greenhouse would be a decent place to leave minis to cure them?

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy
That would probably work great. The biggest thing to keep in mind if you aren't using a curing chamber is consistent exposure. You can run into issues if one side is fully cured and the other is still uncured. I haven't had any issues myself but I've heard people having issues with thinner parts breaking from uneven curing.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Hobby-branded stuff is always overpriced, so I picked this up for curing:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JGG5CH4

I haven't given it a thorough test yet, but it's 24W of all-around coverage.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.

The Baumann posted:

That would probably work great. The biggest thing to keep in mind if you aren't using a curing chamber is consistent exposure. You can run into issues if one side is fully cured and the other is still uncured. I haven't had any issues myself but I've heard people having issues with thinner parts breaking from uneven curing.

You can get a little UV-powered turntable that'll spin your mini around

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
I'm obsessed with OpenLock tiles. I'm printing out a bunch of these cathedral ruins panels from Printablescenery.com, and they just clip together in different configurations and unclip when I'm done. SUPER happy with how this looks for being a filament print.



Ignore the blood stain

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy
Blood stains make it 40kier. Do you have a direct link to that? I really love how those look and I’m a big fan of modular stuff that can come apart to store.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Yep, it's a mix of the cathedral walls, cathedral ruins, and cathedral floors from this section
https://www.printablescenery.com/product-category/future/gothic-40k-scenery/

Its not free, but I've not found anything else that hits exactly what I was looking for at that quality

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'
I'm thinking I want some nifty small and medium scale scatter terrain sized for 28mm. These Voodoo Stones that I'm printing will be a good start to see what the printer is capable of, and for the moment I am doing the 'top layer hack' by making the thing think it's printing all top layers. I dunno how it will turn out, necessarily, but I'm interested to see if it will produce something interesting.

I did get a bit overzealous on cooling during printing the brim and that curled up a bit but settled back down after I turned down the external fans. I'm hoping that these things will be cool and neat, and I guess if not, continue tinkering with this profile and doing a silly amount of prints at once instead of trying to do test prints of single objects.

The Baumann
Jun 2, 2013

En Garde, Fuckboy

No. 1 Juicy Boi posted:

Yep, it's a mix of the cathedral walls, cathedral ruins, and cathedral floors from this section
https://www.printablescenery.com/product-category/future/gothic-40k-scenery/

Its not free, but I've not found anything else that hits exactly what I was looking for at that quality

These all look great!

Honestly printing stuff like this probably comes off a lot cheaper than the terrain GW sells even factoring in materials and power consumption. I have some industrial lookin stuff printing now that I’ve posted pictures of previously as I’ve worked on it.

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Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Oh cool, a 3d printing thread!
I been printing a bunch of the Ulvheim ruins for Fantasy games, and the clean looking sci-fi buildings from Corvus Games Terrain. After that the plan is to print a bunch of buildings for Adeptus Titanicus off of thingiverse.
My FDM printer is... not great, I got the old Anycubic Mega Zero, which lacks a lot of QOL stuff. Changing a few fittings and buying a removable plate for the bed has made it a million times better, though.

On the resin side, I recently bought a Photon Mono, also from Anycubic, and it's an absolute dream to work with. I'm mostly printing Bestiarum stuff, but I'm also working on hacking stuff together for a Kill Team of Savlar Chem-Dogs. And, of course, everybody wants me to print them baby yodas and Star Trek ships and poo poo.

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