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Action Man
Jan 31, 2007



So this truck belonged to my grandparents. They live in Central California and in the way way back when they bought a cabin up in the Sierras and decided they needed something sturdier than the VW rabbit they were driving to negotiate mountain roads. They ended up with this 1985 Toyota SR5 Xtra Cab. 22RE[C] engine with EFI and manual transmission. FFW to today they decided they were ready to part ways with it and now I own it.





Its in shockingly good shape considering the age. Interior is very clean, with only one small crack on the dashboard despite never seeing the inside of a garage. Exterior is really decent, the clear coat is basically gone, it'll need a new coat of paint (and decals obviously) eventually, but there's no major problems areas and virtually no rust.

The glove box was full of a bunch of original documents:








The seats have basically had covers on them their whole life so they're crazy clean.

The engine runs great but leaks a ton of oil


I'm looking for some advice about what to do about fixing up the engine. I haven't done a compression test, but aside from leaking oil it seems to run fine. There's basically been no major engine work done to it... the odometer reads: :siren: 104,000 miles :siren: What concerns me though is all the gaskets/wearable parts are 35 years old. I'm thinking about buying a rebuild kit like this one: https://www.lceperformance.com/Premium-Master-Rebuild-Kit-p/1010006.htm

I want to do this the right way™ but there's a few things I'm unsure of. I've done a valve job on a small 4 cylinder that was burning oil really badly, but I've never done a full rebuild like this. A thing I'm curious about is for pistons and main bearings you can select "standard" or "+0.02, +0.03, etc" I presume that's for if you're going to have the cylinders bored out larger? Is that correct? and if so is that a thing that should be done? or is it just dependent on if there's damage to the cylinders?

I guess what I'm asking is what are things I need to consider in bringing the old girl back to her former glory. I know my way around an engine but this is a pretty ambitious project for me and I love to hear some opinions.

The only things I've done so far is replace the Drive shaft carrier bearing because it was ripped all to hell and put a new set of tires on it.


Bonus: Here it is brand new back in 1985

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Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


poo poo, that thing is absolutely mint! Outside of some gaskets, I'd check into the timing chain stuff on 22Rs, clean it up and then triple the mileage on it. A+ trukk.

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher
Whoah cleeeean and stock this is amazing

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Welcome to the 22RE club! The oil leaking is just par for the course.
I just finished replacing the head gasket in mine (a 1988 4Runner with 200k+ miles on it).

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005

by Pragmatica

Action Man posted:

I'm looking for some advice about what to do about fixing up the engine. I haven't done a compression test, but aside from leaking oil it seems to run fine. There's basically been no major engine work done to it... the odometer reads: :siren: 104,000 miles :siren: What concerns me though is all the gaskets/wearable parts are 35 years old. I'm thinking about buying a rebuild kit like this one: https://www.lceperformance.com/Premium-Master-Rebuild-Kit-p/1010006.htm

First off, wow, what a truck, goddamn glorious. Absolute gem of a vehicle.

Secondly, that mileage? A rebuild isn't strictly necessary, it's an old Toyota, if you replace the gaskets you'll still have leaks, that's what they do, think of it as corrosion prevention. If you really do want to tear into the engine, you're approaching the mileage that the timing chain is due for replacement. Very likely to be the original chain with the original plastic-only chain guides. Likely not a problem now, but soon those guides will break and then the chain will eat the timing cover. LCE does a dual row upgrade for it that is a worthy investment if you are going to rebuild the whole thing. At the same time, it's not technically due yet.

Vac hoses, will be a yes for redoing no matter what. If you don't have to smog it then do a egr/air injection delete, likely the egr is plugged with soot and doing nothing anyways, it was a poor design. Replace the pcv valve.

Also, nadmonk is working on a 22RE in a 1988 4Runner right now, check out his thread.

Action Man
Jan 31, 2007

I've been looking into the dual chain upgrade. I think If I don't tear apart the whole thing yet, I'll at least be doing the head gasket and timing chain. Its been run low on oil a couple times and I'd rather not run into trouble.

As far as the EGR, I had it shipped from California to where I live in Kansas. It passed smog last year, so its working *enough* I plan on moving back to the west coast in the next couple years so I need to keep all that working for now.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


I'll second the EGR/air injection/PAIRS delete. I removed mine and it runs great. Some of that is probably down to a new cylinder head that actually let's me bolt the exhaust manifold to it properly.

But if you decide to do that, let me know, I accidentally ended up with an extra set of EGR and air injection delete plates I would be happy to send your way.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

FWIW the paint was probably single stage from the factory and will polish up nicely if you’re careful! Doubt there’s a need to repaint.

Super cool truck, I’m extremely jealous

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry

For some reason I can’t see the pictures; I’ll assume they’re awesome for now.

I would strongly consider desmogging and resmogging the engine every two years. If the EGR and air injection are in working order you want to keep them that way - and what better method than lubricated and on a shelf? I honestly don’t think you’ll be increasing emissions that much because these systems were really pretty crappy to start with.

Replace all the vacuum lines. From scratch. Get the FSM and use that, don’t follow what’s there. Get a few of these from the dealer or ToyotaPartsDeal; this is the good hose that will last longer than any parts store crap (and as a bonus is the correct metric size):



At this stage I would say these truck are better used closer to stock than ‘saw off the bed and add huge tires’. I think some of the upgrades (crossover steering, possibly IFS rear axle + front axle hubs) are worthwhile for a mostly street-driven truck, though.

Edit: Also, Fluid Film the poo poo out of it. Yearly, if not twice yearly. You have just about the only Toyota pickup of that body style left with the bed intact.

Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 03:06 on May 5, 2021

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005

by Pragmatica

Advent Horizon posted:

If the EGR and air injection are in working order you want to keep them that way - and what better method than lubricated and on a shelf? I honestly don’t think you’ll be increasing emissions that much because these systems were really pretty crappy to start with.

Yeah, those little tubes are unobtanium once they rot away. Although, the depths of my memory say that it's possible to pass smog without them.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Nthing the "don't replace bearings if they're not telling knock-knock jokes". A reseal, with good gaskets and care taken when cleaning the old ones / residue off, can work wonders on even notoriously leaky engine designs.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Holy cow man. What an inheritance. Keep this truck out of the salt and do what the other goons have mentioned. This truck will last the rest of your life.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Jesus, that thing is MINT.

Pretty sure the R engine family leaked oil before they even filled them with oil at the factory. It's a feature, I'd be really worried if it wasn't leaking.

Do the timing chain and guides soon - if it's already rattling, do it immediately (the chain is generally already stretched a bit by 100k). And remember 85+ 22REs use a different timing chain than <1985.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yeah, this truck is awesome. Do the engine stuff and hit up the detailing thread. This thing needs very little money and a decent amount of time to turn it into a time capsule.

I always did wonder who people who immediately put seat covers on poo poo were saving the seats for.......turns out it was specifically for you.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Make a wise choice, and if you want to keep it i totally understand.

Otherwise I’d do a timing belt service, have it paint corrected, and put it up for sale or auction it at BAT. That could be worth a small fortune right now. Everyone is looking for these.

Captain McAllister
May 24, 2001


everdave posted:

Make a wise choice, and if you want to keep it i totally understand.

Otherwise I’d do a timing belt service, have it paint corrected, and put it up for sale or auction it at BAT. That could be worth a small fortune right now. Everyone is looking for these.

This is from 3 years ago, so I'm sure they're worth more now:

https://journal.classiccars.com/2018/06/15/clean-original-1985-toyota-pickup/

(A shade under $20k).

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

everdave posted:

Make a wise choice, and if you want to keep it i totally understand.

Otherwise I’d do a timing belt service, have it paint corrected, and put it up for sale or auction it at BAT. That could be worth a small fortune right now. Everyone is looking for these.

TIMING CHAIN, there is no belt to be changed guy. Clearly owning a bunch of cars doesn't meant you know anything about them. Literally Dunning-Kruger.


To Action Man: congratulations on your rolling retirement fund. It looks gorgeous.

Maybe this was mentioned and I missed it, but being yours is a 1985 I assume it has the solid front axle yeah? Strictly speaking value-wise, keeping it a stock as possible will mean it's worth the most money. If you don't care about that then I'd still argue keeping it stock (leaving the solid front axle if it is so equipped) as if your the sort of person to install BF Goodrich KO2s white letters out, then you are probably the sort of person to drive this truck as it is and enjoy it even if it's slow and bouncy. They are only original once and, much like listening to vinyl records, there is a certain autophile aesthetic to enjoying vehicles as they were designed, warts and all.
This configuration is probably the absolute pinnacle of 80s Toyota pickup outside of the Back the the Future truck in desirability. It's perfect.

Also if you'd like, change the headunit out and replace the speakers, but keep the old headunit somewhere and use a wiring harness to avoid cutting any wires. Having the OG stereo is a nice thing to have if and when you do get rid of it. More complete = better

I currently have the Japan younger brother double cab diesel version of your truck:



You will constantly be hounded for people trying to buy it off of you, and to be clear your truck is easily $25,000 as it sits. The value for these things is a vertical line straight up right now, under no circumstances think otherwise. People get real spicy when we have our import trucks listed for that sort of money yet strangely they always sell. The muscle car boom is back, just now it's 80s and 90s Toyotas.

EDIT Man you even have the center caps for the wheels, though I'm almost certain they are supposed to be black. Guessing your wheels have been repainted at some point? Nope, you have your brand new picture right there. Came with the rear chrome caps rather than the black and red ones like mine did. Neat!

Also while it isn't the USDM brochure, I always get a kick out of the JDM one that shows off both the JDM 4Runner (Hilux Surf) and the JDM Pickup (just Hilux) as the AMERICAN OFFROAD MACHINE


http://www.toyota.co.jp/jpn/company/history/75years/vehicle_lineage/catalog/60011317/html5.html#page=1

KakerMix fucked around with this message at 01:39 on May 14, 2021

superdylan
Oct 13, 2005
not 100% stupid
Nice truck! I've rebuilt a couple 22Rs, even though I thought I was doing everything the right way, there was so much headache and extra cost along the way I always wondered about just swapping in a generic reman motor. Things like, I had the block and head surfaced, and when I assembled the motor and started it up, thick white smoke poured out the exhaust and wouldn't let up. Root cause was that after the surfacing, the alignment dowel in the block now stood too tall and I had to take off 1/4" to get the head to lay flat. Anyhoo, that motor lasted 5 years of light use and then my parents chose to keep the truck alive by having a shop swap in a rebuild, it was $4k all said and done with zero issues and I wish I had done that earlier.

My 87 4x4 was stolen last year and is still at large :( I went digging through my garage and found a bunch of new-from-Toyota interior knobs, scres, and some engine parts, can I send them to you?

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
whatever

everdave fucked around with this message at 03:27 on May 25, 2021

MrChips
Jun 10, 2005

FLIGHT SAFETY TIP: Fatties out first

everdave posted:

[quote="KakerMix" post="514707854"]
TIMING CHAIN, there is no belt to be changed guy.

Hmm exactly what I recommended you recommend. You blocked me on IG block me here clown. I’ll keep getting way more cars than you. Leave me alone.

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Don't bring offsite drama in here, don't post stupid and bad advice like what you just did, don't keep acting like you're the king of AI because you keep buying useless poo poo from Japan and maybe just don't post.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Oh wow that's loving rad. Always loved the look of those trucks since BTTF of course, seem to be just the pefrect size to be useful but not fuckoff huge.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




MrChips posted:

Don't bring offsite drama in here, don't post stupid and bad advice like what you just did, don't keep acting like you're the king of AI because you keep buying useless poo poo from Japan and maybe just don't post.

:drat:

Just found this thread and that's a cool truck!

Action Man
Jan 31, 2007

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a replacement radiator? I'm having an overheat issue. I ran some cooling system cleaner though it but I'm just getting gallons and gallons of brown water coming out. I'm thinking the old radiator has to be clogged to gently caress with debris. IDK very much at all about radiators. I've been leaning heavily on https://22reperformance.com/ They seem to have a pretty well curated parts catalog, but they don't sell a radiator.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

Action Man posted:

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a replacement radiator? I'm having an overheat issue. I ran some cooling system cleaner though it but I'm just getting gallons and gallons of brown water coming out. I'm thinking the old radiator has to be clogged to gently caress with debris. IDK very much at all about radiators. I've been leaning heavily on https://22reperformance.com/ They seem to have a pretty well curated parts catalog, but they don't sell a radiator.

I'm a big fan of copper radiators for this application or a high quality aluminum.
For $168+ shipping I'd start here.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...%2BghHAq5AmOHb8

Action Man
Jan 31, 2007

thanks, that's actually one I was looking at

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Mr. Wiggles
Dec 1, 2003

We are all drinking from the highball glass of ideology.
Goodness, the literal perfect truck. The ur-truck. Looks super good with those BFGs on it as well.

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