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22 Eargesplitten posted:Thanks. I'm definitely going to put more effort into fixing it than most would, I hate how disposable just about everything is considered in our society, I fix things that most people would probably throw away, partially because of the principle and partially because I enjoy it. Also I'm not going to drive it like an idiot and wreck it like some owners who just see cheap fast-looking car. Got a link to those windshields? I'm always up for building my parts hoard
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Dec 24, 2021 18:20
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I’m not sure where to find them tbh, this is all secondhand knowledge. I got the alignment done Friday in time to go on an almost 700 mile round trip for Christmas. I once again forgot to take pictures in the garage, and the ongoing blizzard I drove through on I-70 meant that I didn’t take any pictures on the way out, but on the way back I did brave the snow for long enough to take one picture of this car in its natural habitat. The car took this whole thing like a champ, electrical gremlins and squeaks aside it drives like a modern car. I’ve still got plenty of small fiddly issues to work on and lots of old seals to replace but I’m very happy with the work I have gotten done on it in this year, at this point it’s basically a daily driver for the limited amount I drive. It’s in the ideal project car state, where all of the work is quality of life and preventative stuff rather than functional and safety. 
22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Dec 28, 2021 |
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Dec 28, 2021 00:21
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22 Eargesplitten posted:at this point it’s basically a daily driver for the limited amount I drive. I may have spoken too soon. I was just coming into town on Tuesday when my dash lit up like a Christmas tree and the engine died. I coasted onto a side road and got it into a parking spot. I think it's fuel because I have spark and air is usually the car starts, falters, and dies rather than not starting at all. I've been taking a few pictures and will try to take some more through this process, but I'm working in the cold and sometimes blowing snow thanks to Colorado finally getting some snow and my friend's garage being occupied so I tend to rush a little bit. Also, bonelessdongs, new thread rule is anyone who posts in here with a SVX has to post pictures of their SVX too. I can totally make thread rules that you have to follow and this isn't a bluff.
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Jan 9, 2022 00:48
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bonelessdongs posted:Got a link to those windshields? I'm always up for building my parts hoard I got a new windshield on mine for $256 installed this past summer. I have doubts as to the quality of the glass at that price, but beggars can't really be choosers I guess. Anything is better than the mess I had before. Information copied from my invoice is below, if it helps.  e: The first two lines are for a windshield for my 2005 Odyssey, which I had done at the same time. The part number for the SVX windshield is FW700. I can take mine around the neighborhood, but it's not quite driver status yet, still needs a couple things. I pulled it out of my yard in August 2020 as a quarantine project. It was formerly a parts car, and hadn't run since 2009 (was sitting in my driveway / yard all this time) so there was a lot of stuff wrong with it, although not as much as I was expecting. Thread tax: How it looked when I first started (August 2020), pls ignore messy yard:   How it's currently sitting, pls ignore messy garage:  
Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Jan 9, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 05:42
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drat, that's a really nice job cleaning up that rear quarter panel dent. I'm so glad to see these things getting love. I thankfully don't have any full-on dents to fix, just a lot of paint damage.
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Jan 9, 2022 08:08
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A sweet-rear end car I like sweet-rear end cars
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Jan 9, 2022 16:45
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22 Eargesplitten posted:drat, that's a really nice job cleaning up that rear quarter panel dent. I'm so glad to see these things getting love. I thankfully don't have any full-on dents to fix, just a lot of paint damage. I wish the dent was cleaned up  The lighting in the garage isn't the greatest, so you can't see it that well. I pushed it out so it's not as bad as it was, but it's definitely still there. Once the car is mechanically sound, I'll probably put it in a body shop to get rid of it for good. The paint on mine overall is much nicer than it has any right to be, although I do have some peeling clearcoat on the driver side front fender. A good cut and polish would do wonders for it. Also on the list for when it's mechanically sorted out.
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Jan 9, 2022 17:03
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Black88GTA posted:I wish the dent was cleaned up Long time no see. Glad you've still got the SVX.
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Jan 9, 2022 17:21
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sharkytm posted:Long time no see. Glad you've still got the SVX.  Yeah, it's been a while. Miss the old NEAI meetups, although (I would bet) everyone's lives have changed enough since to the point where it's not really feasible to do another. Although if you (or any of you wonderful goons) are ever in Long Island, beers are on me  Most of the fleet hasn't changed from last time I saw all of the NEAI crew, except I had to get rid of the old Prelude and was gifted a minivan to take its place. Everything aside from the van (and sometimes the van too) falls under the "project" category. Once the SVX is in a place where I want it, the Escalade is going under the wrench. Because of the work it needs (bushings and valve seals  ), BMW is hibernating until I have a place that's not controlled by a landlord so I can tear into it without worrying about it.22 Eargesplitten have you had to do wheel bearings on yours? I guess they're known to be problem areas on these - my (now parts car) 94 never needed them, but I think I need at least one on my 92 project. Apparently there's a special way to do them on the SVX (because of course there is) but I'm not familiar with it. I contacted one local Subaru tuner shop - who declined to work on it - and I'm not sure I trust other shops (even dealers) to do it correctly. I'm now on the fence about buying a hub grappler set and doing it myself, although it's kind of a big spend ($400 minimum) on something I'd probably only use a handful of times. Curious what others' experiences have been.
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Jan 9, 2022 22:14
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I have not had to do wheel bearings yet, thankfully. I feel like I heard something about the wheel bearings being a problem that was fixed later in the years, just one of the several issues that came from them not having made cars this large in the past. You could probably get a loaner wheel bearing puller from an auto parts store. I feel like if anywhere aside from Vermont and Colorado would have a shop with a greybeard mechanic who knows how to work on these things, it would be somewhere in the New York metropolitan area, but I don't know who it would be. I took mine to the highest reviewed Subaru shop in Denver, they ran codes, put new knock sensors on it, and it didn't even fix the issue which was the dead throttle position sensor they couldn't source causing knock issues. I basically paid $1,200 for a post-purchase inspection and some unneeded parts.
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Jan 10, 2022 00:03
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Black88GTA posted:I got a new windshield on mine for $256 installed this past summer. I have doubts as to the quality of the glass at that price, but beggars can't really be choosers I guess. Anything is better than the mess I had before. Information copied from my invoice is below, if it helps. 22 Eargesplitten posted:I have not had to do wheel bearings yet, thankfully. I feel like I heard something about the wheel bearings being a problem that was fixed later in the years, just one of the several issues that came from them not having made cars this large in the past. You could probably get a loaner wheel bearing puller from an auto parts store. SpeedyEFI has a BMW TPS conversion kit you can buy or try to copy yourself. I bought one back when mine broke for at the time mysterious reasons and I decided to just fire the parts cannon all at once 22 Eargesplitten posted:I may have spoken too soon. I was just coming into town on Tuesday when my dash lit up like a Christmas tree and the engine died. I coasted onto a side road and got it into a parking spot. I think it's fuel because I have spark and air is usually the car starts, falters, and dies rather than not starting at all. I've been taking a few pictures and will try to take some more through this process, but I'm working in the cold and sometimes blowing snow thanks to Colorado finally getting some snow and my friend's garage being occupied so I tend to rush a little bit.  Here's mine in its usual spot on the back of a flatbed Sounds like your MAF died, that's what mine did when the original MAF gave up. Sometimes resoldering the connections to the PCB and ground plane is enough to make them work again, but mine was dead enough that resoldering connections made it go from not running at all to only running between 1000 and 2500 RPM. You can still get SVX MAFs from amazon and rockauto for reasonably cheap
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Jan 12, 2022 04:42
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I actually do have a BMW TPS from SpeedyEFI, I found that and ran with it instead of paying $150 for a used one. It has worked great aside from me needing to replace the nuts and loctite them because they eventually worked themselves loose with the vibration of driving until the sensor came off the shaft. That's user error not thinking about that possibility though. I tried using split washers as well but the bolts are just too short to have room for that extra layer. When the MAF failed, did the engine at least sputter a bit before dying? When I did my CV axle the first time on my Impreza I ended up taking the secondary air filter box apart for easier access to the axle pin, and I didn't quite get it sealed back up right. The unmetered air there meant that it started for a couple seconds before shutting off. That's why I thought it wouldn't be air. I can at least try testing the MAF if I can find the procedure in my FSM. The vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator is definitely messed up though, and that most likely means that gas has gotten into it, which would mean the diaphragm has failed. I've got that part coming on Friday. Worst case I wasted $70 on the regulator and replaced an iffy vacuum hose before it failed, I suppose.
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Jan 12, 2022 05:23
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I actually do have a BMW TPS from SpeedyEFI, I found that and ran with it instead of paying $150 for a used one. It has worked great aside from me needing to replace the nuts and loctite them because they eventually worked themselves loose with the vibration of driving until the sensor came off the shaft. That's user error not thinking about that possibility though. I tried using split washers as well but the bolts are just too short to have room for that extra layer. When my MAF failed it progressed from misfire and CEL to stalling to sputtering and dying about a second after starting in 15 miles of driving If you have a spare subaru lying around you can test it by swapping an EJ MAF in and seeing if it starts.
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Jan 12, 2022 05:30
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I do have another Subaru and I'm pretty sure it's got a MAF even though the sensor is like 10% the size of the gigantic one on the SVX. I'm not getting any combustion at all currently, though.
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Jan 12, 2022 06:20
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I do have another Subaru and I'm pretty sure it's got a MAF even though the sensor is like 10% the size of the gigantic one on the SVX. I'm not getting any combustion at all currently, though. You want the old style that looks like a SVX sensor, not the later style like you describe. When you say no combustion do you know if you have fuel and spark? If I remember correctly the usual culprits for a SVX not starting are MAF, TPS, ignitor, coilpacks, and cam/crank sensors
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Jan 12, 2022 06:48
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Black88GTA posted:
LOL. Yeah. I've got a 6 month old son. Sold my project car to ChrisGT, sold the Fit, and we're down to 3 cars now. I miss the old meetups, but everyone's busy/COVID is a thing.
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Jan 12, 2022 16:02
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bonelessdongs posted:You want the old style that looks like a SVX sensor, not the later style like you describe. When you say no combustion do you know if you have fuel and spark? If I remember correctly the usual culprits for a SVX not starting are MAF, TPS, ignitor, coilpacks, and cam/crank sensors I've got spark, I've got no fuel pressure according to a gauge but in the process of taking that gauge off the "no fuel pressure" sprayed all over the engine bay so something is weird there. And spraying starter fluid into the intake and cranking (after thoroughly cleaning up the spilled fuel and giving it time to air out as well) has no effect. It's not throwing any codes, which should rule out a lot of options but there doesn't seem to be a MAF code on an OBD-1 car. I am also wondering if I should check the timing belt itself somehow. Maybe I'm just thinking up worst case scenarios, IDK. I have no records of the belt having been changed in the records that the PO gave me, but the shop that did the inspection said that the timing belt was fine. But, it's entirely possible they missed it. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Jan 12, 2022 |
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Jan 12, 2022 17:57
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I've got spark, I've got no fuel pressure according to a gauge but in the process of taking that gauge off the "no fuel pressure" sprayed all over the engine bay so something is weird there. And spraying starter fluid into the intake and cranking (after thoroughly cleaning up the spilled fuel and giving it time to air out as well) has no effect. The chain of events you described sounds like MAF to me. Was any starting fluid getting sprayed back at you when you tried to start? If you jumped timing bad enough for the engine to not start at all you might feel pressure coming out of the intake while you crank. If I was in your position I'd try to get a 90s/early 2000s EJ MAF sensor and see if the car runs with that before putting effort into further diagnosis Edit: If you're not starting with starting fluid and you had fuel in the rails and it still didn't start it's probably not a fueling issue. bonelessdongs fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Jan 12, 2022 |
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Jan 12, 2022 18:50
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I didn't have an assistant so I couldn't tell what was going on when I was trying to start as far as air blowing out of the intake. I could only confirm spark by pulling the coil, sticking a plug in it, and pointing my cell phone camera at the plug to see the spark arcing between the contacts when I was done cranking. My Impreza is a '99 but I can never remember whether the EJ223 engine is MAF or MAP. I know that between the 222 and the 223 one is MAF and one is MAP but the internet is perpetually useless, and while it does have wires going to a small device just downstream from the air filter box it doesn't look like the MAF on the SVX so I'm not sure if it's something else. I've got my FSM for the Impreza on my computer, I guess I can see if they state the difference in there.
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Jan 12, 2022 19:21
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 If it looks like this you could unbolt the entire tube from the impreza filter box, unbolt the SVX's one, then stick the impreza sensor in the SVX's snorkel to test it. If it starts then there's your problem.
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Jan 12, 2022 19:44
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Yeah, pretty sure that is it, at work so I can't do comparisons at the moment. The fact I'm getting 0 combustion at all makes me question it though.
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Jan 12, 2022 19:58
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I'd think that it would run without a maf at least for a few seconds in open loop. No idea how Subaru does their engine tuning but that's pretty common for start up (on cold starts) you aren't reading of the maf and are running off a table in the ecu.
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Jan 12, 2022 20:45
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That's how it works with my Impreza, yeah. Can I get a "gently caress!" from the crowd? That's split all the way through, I couldn't quite fit my finger in there to get a picture but I could get my fingernail through the crack. Next up: borrow a borescope to determine if the valves and piston heads kissed, which is possible but not guaranteed in this engine. It's technically interference but my understanding is that there are only a few degrees of cam and crank timing where they could collide. Then, if the valves and pistons aren't trashed, I have to figure out a plan of attack. I'll need a new belt and idlers/tensioner, probably do the water pump since the current one is between ? and 27 years old, and then I'm wondering if I should see if I can do it as an engine out job in my friend's garage. That would probably be the best opportunity to replace the leaky seals while I'm at it, and would save me having to do it on the car in the elements. This is going to be a big long process though so I think my first priority is going to be getting everything needed done on the Impreza so I don't end up with it making GBS threads the bed too. All the work being done on the SVX was supposed to mean that I could start attacking the laundry list of small items on the Impreza, but I do not have nearly enough information to determine what needs to be done with the SVX at this point. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Jan 12, 2022 |
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Jan 12, 2022 21:18
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22 Eargesplitten posted:That's how it works with my Impreza, yeah. gently caress! It's not too hard to do a belt and water pump with the engine in the car save for the loving UNGODLY untapered water pump bolts that are impossible to get to both thread and hold the water pump gasket in place at the same time. If I were you I would leave it in unless the rear main seal or oil plate are leaking. Make sure you use the actual factory service manual and not the third party manual mislabeled as one since it gives you the wrong torque specs for important things like cam gears. http://www.mediafire.com/download/krbo1so3m7pd3rk/USDM_SVX_FSM_1992.zip
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Jan 12, 2022 22:29
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Well, part of it is that to do it in the car would require either getting another tow or doing it in the Colorado mountains in the winter racing the sun. Whereas I could pull the engine with a hoist and drive it over to my friend's garage and sit it on a table assuming he's okay with that. And when it comes to this engine I'm pretty sure that the answer to "is x leaking" is "yes' unless it's the head gaskets or the radiator. Rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, probably the valve stem seals but I haven't taken the valve cover off to confirm. It looks like the only available kit with all the tensioners, idlers, belt, and water pump is $400 though, so this is probably something I'm going to save up for a bit for since I don't need the car right now to survive.
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Jan 12, 2022 23:02
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Well, part of it is that to do it in the car would require either getting another tow or doing it in the Colorado mountains in the winter racing the sun. Whereas I could pull the engine with a hoist and drive it over to my friend's garage and sit it on a table assuming he's okay with that. And when it comes to this engine I'm pretty sure that the answer to "is x leaking" is "yes' unless it's the head gaskets or the radiator. Rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, probably the valve stem seals but I haven't taken the valve cover off to confirm. https://www.rockauto.com/en/cart/?cartid=456c4f9c8f4eaed975f14e930d6844b3 You can make a kit using a EJ255 waterpump for 300 dollars, the only difference is an extra hose connection for an oil cooler you'd have to cap off
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Jan 13, 2022 02:48
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I've never pulled or reinstalled an eg33 but I can tell you that a timing job in the woods is about half the time it takes to just pull an ej251, nevermind reinstalling it. I would do it in the car where it is.
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Jan 13, 2022 04:58
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bonelessdongs posted:https://www.rockauto.com/en/cart/?cartid=456c4f9c8f4eaed975f14e930d6844b3 Thanks, saved that cart. I assumed that the timing job was going to be like 6-10 hours tbh, and I always hear how easy Subaru engines are to pull, so I thought having it pulled and in shelter would be easier. If not, I guess I can do it in my driveway.
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Jan 13, 2022 06:16
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I've not done it on an eg33 but I can do an ej251 timing belt setup in like 2 hours flat. Slightly more if replacing the water pump though it's actually more comfortable as you can pull the rad and get a few more inches of working space. Breaking the balancer bolt loose took me longer than swapping the belt, and pulling the belt covers and accessory belts and fans is like maybe half an hour of work.
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Jan 13, 2022 08:36
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Yeah, I'll probably be doing the water pump just because of its age. Although I will say that the timing belt has surprisingly good condition rubber aside from the part where it ripped, I wouldn't be surprised if it got replaced at some point. I wonder how much room I'd have if removing the radiator, my friend with the garage just got a Milwaukee high-torque impact and has been wanting something big to use it on but it's like 8" long or so. I do have a Kobalt right-angle impact but it's less than half as powerful as the Milwaukee. I've got a $20 borescope coming from Amazon on Tuesday, which means I'll be able to inspect the cylinders through the spark plug holes and see if there was any damage to the engine. Based on the fact that there's still tension on the belt (just less than there should be) I'm hoping it didn't jump timing, the cam gear that I inspected still has the belt partially on the teeth so that's 1/2 since despite being DOHC the EG33 has an interesting design where the belt turns one gear on each side, and then inside the block there's a gear on that camshaft that turns a gear on the other camshaft. I'll see how the spark plugs are looking at the same time. One plus side of the coil on plug design of the SVX is you actually get a bit more room to get the spark plug out once you get the coil clear since the coil is sunk into the block. Would this thread be interested in me talking about working on my boring Impreza as well? I'm going to be doing the spark plugs and front brakes on it shortly, and once I've got the SVX up and running again I'll be doing a CV axle and the timing belt on that preventatively.
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Jan 15, 2022 23:10
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Jan 16, 2022 01:07
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My Jeep thread was full of boring rear end 00/01 Forester maintenance and engine replacements from 2014 through 2019 so I for one can't tell you no
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Jan 16, 2022 07:35
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Yeah, I'll probably be doing the water pump just because of its age. Although I will say that the timing belt has surprisingly good condition rubber aside from the part where it ripped, I wouldn't be surprised if it got replaced at some point. I wonder how much room I'd have if removing the radiator, my friend with the garage just got a Milwaukee high-torque impact and has been wanting something big to use it on but it's like 8" long or so. I do have a Kobalt right-angle impact but it's less than half as powerful as the Milwaukee. I jumped timing over 90 degrees on mine and didn't kiss any pistons with my valves. Technically an EG is an interference engine but I haven't heard of anyone losing the timing lottery on theirs. This guy lost timing at WOT and his engine was fine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JY6pWprzFRM
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Jan 16, 2022 23:19
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I have not had to do wheel bearings yet, thankfully. I feel like I heard something about the wheel bearings being a problem that was fixed later in the years, just one of the several issues that came from them not having made cars this large in the past. You could probably get a loaner wheel bearing puller from an auto parts store. I looked briefly at the loaner tools at Autozone, but they didn't seem to have anything that would do the job. I may try hunting around more. Project is stalled until it warms up anyway, gently caress working in the unheated garage in winter unless I have to. There used to be a SVX specific shop in NJ called All We'll Drive, which was awesome for this kind of thing but they've been closed up for some time now. The main guy who ran it is still semi-active on the SVX World Network forums. bonelessdongs posted:That's crazy cheap, was this a local place or a chain? The windshield was done by a local place. Safelite quoted me $450 I think it was. I think my TPS may have a dead spot in it as well, but need more time behind the wheel to confirm. I know I have a good one somewhere in storage, but I may just go the SpeedyEFI route anyway when the time comes. I haven't been able to drive mine all that much yet - I put in 5 gallons of fresh gas right after I pulled it out of the yard just so I can move it around and take short test drives after I fix stuff but haven't gone more than probably 15 miles or so in total since. Re: timing belt chat - I always thought the EG33 was a non-interference motor? Maybe that's inaccurate, but I've always understood that if the belt breaks on these, the only thing that happens is car no work until the belt is replaced. I did the belt on my 94 many years ago, but don't think I did the water pump at the time. I should probably inspect / replace the belt on my 92 before driving it too much. Side note: Take great care not to hurt the radiator, as new rads for the SVX are not available. If yours pops (or you punch a hole in it), you may have to hunt down a used one. At one time there was an (expensive) all-aluminum one from some performance shop you could get that may still offer them but I wouldn't bank on it.
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Jan 18, 2022 21:13
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Mine actually has the aluminum radiator already, the PO installed it. They halfassed the wiring though, it comes on as soon as accessory power comes on rather than being thermostat-based. That's on the to-do list. A package from Amazon arrived yesterday and now that I'm not completely exhausted and sick (not COVID, got tested) I took the opportunity to use the borescope and spark plug socket it contained on the Impreza. Which still fits the thread title, since the lack of access to spark plugs in Subarus can be pretty What The gently caress. Thankfully the Impreza uses a SOHC 2.2l motor so the spark plug wells go in diagonally pointing upward, which makes it a bit less painful. I've got pictures, but I've also got some video to comb through and find pictures from the borescope to point out any potential issues. I didn't see any damage but the screen was really washed out in the sun. I definitely saw a lot of build-up in the cylinders, I don't know if it's internal oil leaks, poor combustion from the very worn out spark plugs, or just 220k miles of high elevation driving. I'm not sure I managed to get a good look at the cylinder walls though, frustrating, not sure if there's some technique to get the borescope to twist and see the sides while still getting it through the spark plug hole. Has anyone here worked with high elevation engines? Logically it seems like the o2 sensor should compensate for the lower air density in closed loop, but at open loop how much is the MAF showing lower air flow going to be compensated for? I had the local shop do an inspection and I said to the lady at the desk that I was concerned about the condition of the engine as far as compression and piston/cylinder condition but I'm not sure if that part got communicated or not, I might call and ask for clarification if the cylinders look dicey.
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Jan 24, 2022 02:41
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do you have a leakdown tester and an air compressor? the testers are fairly affordable, anyway. that would tell you how well your valves and rings are sealing, at least. it won't tell you the condition of the bores directly but i would imagine if they were ovaled/egged out the rings would seal less well
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Jan 24, 2022 07:40
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Yes to the air compressor, no to leakdown tester. That's definitely an option, if it comes down to it. I felt like the engine was running a lot better after replacing the plugs, and the gap is about 1/3 of what it was before so it probably is, but I'm not sure how much of that was placebo. A preview:  The old ones were NGK nickel, which was OEM spec, the new ones are NGK platinum because it was like $10 more for the set and they should last a bit longer and supposedly platinum or iridium help offset some of the issues that come with high elevation but that might be nonsense. Both the same heat rating and gap and everything. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Jan 24, 2022 |
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Jan 24, 2022 07:43
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hmm looks like the HF leakdown tester is $25 on clearance right now - i should pick another one up after my first one was lost for me by a friend i wonder if they're making shelf space for a new model?
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Jan 24, 2022 07:57
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm not sure I managed to get a good look at the cylinder walls though, frustrating, not sure if there's some technique to get the borescope to twist and see the sides while still getting it through the spark plug hole. I have (somewhere) an old borescope that I got from Harbor Freight maybe 10ish years ago. It was OK, not great. It's somewhere in storage at the moment (long story) and I can't access it, and have found myself wishing I had it handy quite a bit lately for various projects. So I went looking online, and holy poo poo what's available now is so much better than my old one, and cheap too. I ended up pulling the trigger on this one and have gotten a chance to play with it a bit. I have to say, I'm pretty impressed with it, especially for the $60 I paid. It has a side camera in addition to the front one, which solves the problem of trying to angle the lens to examine cylinder walls. Coincidentally, I just picked up a leakdown tester as well - I was reading a lot of stuff about how the cheap ones only take about 20 or 25 PSI of pressure to work (which sounded low to me if you're trying to determine leakage on something that's supposed to handle 120 - 150 PSI) so I grabbed this one which seems decent. The storage case is too small, but it seems nice aside from that.
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Jan 24, 2022 08:04
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 18:30 |
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Yeah, that one does sound nice. I bet if I get used to it I can make this borescope do what I want, I've just never used one before. I just looked up what the OEM spec for plugs for my SVX is in case they look roasted when I check the pistons for valve damage and these apparently came stock with full platinum plugs (apparently the ones I got for the Impreza are only partially platinum) and those are discontinued so NGK recommends their laser iridium ones. At $12-16 each depending on where you look, and I need 6 of them. In hindsight it's obvious but I never realized how fast the price climbs on something like spark plugs when you add cylinders and compression. Oh well, it's still not necessarily expensive, just not as cheap. Kind of like the oil change that was nearly $80 when I did it myself  . I also recognize I'm doing this to myself by not cheaping out on parts like 95% of owners would, but I'm hoping to avoid problems down the line by not cutting any corners even if I can probably get away with it.
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Jan 24, 2022 08:15
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