SgtMongoose posted:

Would a EVGA 750 G2 psu be able to handle a RTX 3080? Wanting to do some upgrades but not a full rebuild and need to get an idea of what I'd be buying into. CPU is an I7-8700K but I'm not overclocking at the moment for reference. Looking around online seems to say 750W is good enough, but I've always been conservative with psu's in the past.

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

That PCPartPicker build list you posted is okay, though it seems overkill for your needs. You'd want to upgrade your monitor to at least a 1440p one to take advantage of the 6900 XT. If you don't want to do that, I'd suggest getting something along the lines of a 3060 Ti or 6700 XT at most, and maybe try to find a good deal on a previous-generation CPU. Going with a $350 GPU now and spending another ~$350 a few years from now may end up being the smarter choice since you want to stick with 1080p for now. As for the CPU, a purpose-built, humble 1080p gaming PC would probably have a last-gen budget CPU, something like the Ryzen 5600. Going a bit heavier on the CPU may make sense here though since this is something you use with CAD and is presumably something you want to keep around for a while. Still, I'd at least downgrade the CPU to a 13600K and downgrade the cooler too. Actually, here's a different list for you to consider. It should be a pretty serious upgrade over what you currently have while being able to support future GPUs without an issue as-is should you want to upgrade that down the line. The cooler I selected isn't showing up as available in PCPP, but it is available on amazon. There are also cheaper cases available that are just as good as the H7 Flow, but I kept it because it happens to match the motherboard

edit: Or get this RTX 3070 for $400 (third-party newegg seller): https://www.newegg.com/p/1FT-000P-004C4?Item=9SIADFRJA25998&cm_sp=Dailydeal_SS-_-9SIADFRJA25998-_-11232022

edit 2: Apparently this seller is known for "forgetting" to mark open box/refurbished cards accordingly, so beware of that I guess.

Manzoon posted:

The one question I have is, would I actually have bios compatibility issues like in the warning?

Hobnob posted:

That mobo has a bios flashback feature, so at worst you might need to download a new bios file onto a usb drive and update it from that. You can do that without any cpu installed at all.

Chances are (if you're buying it new) it'll already be compatible with 13th gen intel cpus.

lih posted:

the assassin x 120 se is not going to be a good enough cooler for the 13600k. you'd want the peerless assassin 120 se as the cheapest reasonable option (which is what dr. video games suggested).

you may need to update the bios on that motherboard (which is what the warning is about) but that's not an issue, as on that board you can do it without having an already-compatible cpu.

the 970 evo plus is really not a good value option. for that price you could get a top-end ssd like the kingston kc3000 or you could get a still reasonable pcie 4 drive like the wd sn770 for $20 less, or the sn570 (which has very similar performance to the 970 evo plus) for $30 less

Valicious posted:

I have a Zalman S3 case, and it has slots for 8 120mm fans. (2 on each front, top, bottom, back) What fans should I get? It’s important they are quiet and controllable because I use voice controls on some games. I don’t want Rob lights and whatbot. Is there a difference in fan controllers?
Case: https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Computer-Workstation-Preinstalled-Acrylic/dp/B07NZYJ9ZJ

Manzoon posted:

Thanks, thought he said I could downgrade, unless he meant from their default build I linked. For some reason that peerless assassin 120 se is hard to find. I've had good luck with samsung SSDs in the past, and if kingston is better these days then that's fine.

Edit: Found a none SE version of the cooler and have no real idea what the difference is between the two:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YxVmP6/thermalright-peerless-assassin-120-black-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-black

lih posted:

he meant downgrade from the default build, yeah.

samsung ssds are just often overpriced compared to the competition these days, they're trading on the name recognition. there are good kingston drives and there are bad ones - the kc3000 is good and about one of the absolute fastest drives you can get. you probably don't need that, but it's an option.

there's not much meaningful difference between the se and non-se peerless assassins, just the se is usually cheaper. either is fine for you, get whichever is cheaper. dr video games did link this amazon listing which seems to have both: https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Peerless-Assassin-Aluminium-Technology/dp/B09LGY38L4?th=1

Valicious posted:

I have a Zalman S3 case, and it has slots for 8 120mm fans. (2 on each front, top, bottom, back) What fans should I get? It’s important they are quiet and controllable because I use voice controls on some games. I don’t want Rob lights and whatbot. Is there a difference in fan controllers?
Case: https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Computer-Workstation-Preinstalled-Acrylic/dp/B07NZYJ9ZJ

Ledhed posted:

I’ll be soon building an i7-12700K with an ASUS Z690 TUF mobo and a Noctua NH-D15 cooler. I just learned about the issues with the stock LGA 1700 socket’s clamp causing improper contact between the CPU and cooler on Z690 boards. The proposed solutions I’ve seen include 1) some nylon washers under the stock clamp and 2) replacing the stock clamp with something like the Thermalright contact frame.

I’m probably not going to be doing any overclocking beyond the pre-loaded “set it and forget it” instant OC settings in the BIOS. Hoping you all could help with answering the following:

-Is this still a problem to be considered with what I intend in the way of overclocking?

-If so, does anyone here have experience with either of the solves I mentioned earlier and could provide some tips? Kinda bummed to find out about this potential issue literally hours before I intend to put the parts together.

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

This isn't really a serious issue. Intel designed the socket this way knowing what it meant for contact, and CPU cooling is perfectly adequate the way these motherboards ship out of the box. It's also not a universal problem. Some motherboards affect the curvature of the IHS more than others, and some CPU coolers are affected by this more than others. There are actually some coolers that may perform worse when using a contact frame due to the curvature of their coldplates.

I would say this is the kind of thing where the cooling using the stock hardware is "normal," and you can do some modifications to make it better if you want. Which is how it usually is—there's lapping, delidding, and now these contact frames. It's really not necessary, and nobody who has built an LGA1700 system here has gone through with this process (that I'm aware of). So basically, you don't have to worry about it, and the D15 can cool the 12700K perfectly fine as it is.

Rexxed posted:

CatelynIsAZombie posted:

ughhhh posted:

Manzoon posted:

Thanks for all the help, it would have taken me an age and a day to relearn all the new products and junk.

I Love Topanga posted:

Thoughts on this build?

Valicious posted:

Quoting because it got buried on the previous page.

biceps crimes posted:

is windows 11 the default recommendation for new builds now? I am still on 10 and haven't had any reason to move but am out of the loop

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

The list of PSU brands to avoid is way bigger than the list of PSU brands worth buying right now.

In PC Part Picker, filter for Gold, Platinum or Titanium power supplies, semi or fully modular, and at least the wattage you're looking for, then sort by price. Ignore cheap no-name brands like "Apex" entirely. But you also have to beware of specific models sold by otherwise good brands. The Thermaltake Toughpower GF1, Superflower Leadex, most Seasonic lines, many EVGA lines, Phanteks Amp, Fractal Design Ion, and the Corsair lines better than CX are all pretty good. That's a non-exhaustive list. Specifically look for PSUs that come with at least a 7-year warranty. 10-year warranties are even better. You don't care about the warranty itself per se, but the confidence of the manufacturer to stand behind the product for that long. They tend to give PSUs with better components longer warranties. PSUs that only come with 5 or 3 year warranties are to be avoided.

edit: platinum and titanium-rated power supplies are almost all going to be good, too. The efficiency rating is just for that, efficiency, but it's also very hard to make a high-efficiency power supply that also really sucks in some important way and/or is dangerous.

nitsuga posted:

It is if you’re running a 12th or 13th generation Intel processor. W10 isn’t optimized for the bigLittle core architecture. Ryzen you could go either way, but I’ve not had any trouble with W11 really.

DoombatINC posted:

This looks like a fine build, though be aware that because of how the H7 is laid out the ARGB effects from your selected power supply will largely be covered up - you'll probably get some of the fan's light coming out under the case through the mesh filter and some of the lights on the back of the supply coming through the grate on the floor of the case, but the power supply shroud is gonna obscure a lot of it

biceps crimes posted:

is windows 11 the default recommendation for new builds now? I am still on 10 and haven't had any reason to move but am out of the loop

CordlessPen posted:

I also really appreciate Win11's multi monitor support.

CordlessPen posted:

Very often I'll switch my main monitor between my personal computer and my work laptop but keep my side monitor to control YouTube or Spotify; with Win10 it meant that all my windows were moved to my side monitor and stay there even when I return my main monitor to my machine, with Win11 the windows return to where they were when the monitor is detected again.

Something that I've heard more than once but have never experienced myself is that Win10 has trouble when 2 monitors have different resolution and/or refresh rates (I've heard the lower refresh rate is applied to both monitors or that G-Sync/FreeSync doesn't work until you turn one off but works fine with Win11).

kliras posted:

what thermal paste for cpu's do people swear by these days? i used an nt-h2 that was around the application eol, but it could be the problem with my cpu currently. pros and cons and all that. i've got a bunch of pastes that basically expired which gets a little expensive in the long run, so i'm curious what goons do with new cpu's

obvs a degree here or there doesn't matter as much as price/longevity