|
mcgreenvegtables posted:I've noticed sometimes when I do small paint touchups they blend perfectly from straight on but stick out like crazy viewed from shallower angles. What is going on and how do I avoid that? the older paint has been exposed to more light / aged more, I don't think there's much you can do about it
|
# ? Aug 11, 2021 06:09 |
|
|
# ? Apr 26, 2024 11:54 |
|
It's called flashing. Could be just what actionjackson said, if the existing paint is old enough that it's lost some of its sheen to age. It can also happen on brand new paint for a few different reasons. When you touch up you now have one more coat of paint on that spot versus around it and that extra coat can mean more sheen development. The two main causes, or a combination of both, are- 1) not enough paint on the wall in the initial paint job. Someone got away with one coat looking decent when it really needed two and now the second coat on your touch ups is bringing the paint up to the "true" sheen. See this a lot if the paint was over new drywall or over a cheap builder grade flat since the wall would have been very porous. 2) touch up was put on too heavy. Go lighter on the touch up paint and feather well into the surrounding area. Sometimes thinning your touch up paint slightly can help it blend and not flash It can also happen over areas that were patched and/or spot-primed due to the porosity difference that's been created
|
# ? Aug 11, 2021 12:59 |
|
Found a can of ceiling paint from the PO in the basement and mixed it up painted a test piece of wood so I can see if it actually matches the ceiling. Any risk of using older paint, as long as it mixed up ok?
|
# ? Aug 11, 2021 14:29 |
|
The resins in latex paint will spoil eventually, make sure it doesn't have a funky smell to it or you'll stink up your house. Otherwise if it looks and smells like good paint you ought to be fine
|
# ? Aug 11, 2021 14:39 |
|
painting in progress well not ME painting because gently caress that, but a painter is here finishing mudding and patching the wall (it was cut open to put in a new outlet), and then repainting.
|
# ? Aug 20, 2021 17:23 |
|
oops forgot attachment
|
# ? Aug 20, 2021 17:38 |
|
painting is done! Final Blog Entry, is it pretty much impossible to make an area of the wall that has been patched and mudded look the same texture-wise as the other parts? With my painter, he's added several coats which helps a bit, but it still looks different. But the wall was cut completely open so..
|
# ? Aug 25, 2021 23:57 |
|
As in the texture of the drywall itself, or are the patches are taking the paint differently than the previously painted area?
|
# ? Aug 26, 2021 01:11 |
|
The mudded areas are taking the paint differently. The stipple looks different. However it looked much better after three coats compared to two. This was mainly where the big chunk of drywall was cut out, but also spots where towel bars had been anchored.
|
# ? Aug 26, 2021 06:28 |
|
Yeah sounds like just the porous mud soaking up the paint and the additional coats are sealing it up. Guessing the patches weren't primed? Going to throw out a plug for 3M's spackling compound, which they call "primer enhanced" and it really does a much better job than joint compound or other spackles of giving a good paint finish without priming it first.
|
# ? Aug 26, 2021 12:30 |
|
Final Blog Entry posted:Yeah sounds like just the porous mud soaking up the paint and the additional coats are sealing it up. Guessing the patches weren't primed? I did ask (indirectly as to not come off rude), he did prime those patches, but I showed him a pic and he said it could look better and offered to smooth it out some more. He's a very nice guy! actionjackson fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Aug 26, 2021 |
# ? Aug 26, 2021 13:49 |
|
Small paint bucket with a magnet on the inside and a handle, you are my saviour
|
# ? Sep 28, 2021 00:05 |
|
Living room and kitchen finally being painted, BM ballet white which has a brown undertone, replacing SW softer tan (ugh) Unfortunately I also had him do some bathroom touchups, but the SW paint I got was eggshell when the one he used was low luster, so I have to pay to have him redo it, rip I have no idea how painters know that when it's only the sheens that are different, not the paint color itself actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Sep 28, 2021 |
# ? Sep 28, 2021 20:04 |
|
In reference to the above, thankfully I saved the paints I got at SW, and I called and they said both were the exact same - bracing blue, cashmere, eggshell but it's painfully obvious that the original one (upper part) was eggshell, but the new one has a much different sheen, maybe satin? just look at the difference in reflectivity. my painter talked to them, they did give him a free gallon because they realized there was a mistake, but were baffled by how it could have happened. Maybe when I turned in the old gallon and asked for the new one, they put in another record with the same paint, but when mixing it they selected satin on accident? my painter said he's only had this happen once before in ten years
|
# ? Sep 29, 2021 19:41 |
|
the living room paint turned out very well, and allowed me to get rid of my tan drapes as well
|
# ? Sep 30, 2021 14:53 |
|
Nice, looks like a big improvement over Softer Tan, aka "I'll take your blandest beige please"
|
# ? Sep 30, 2021 16:19 |
|
Final Blog Entry posted:Nice, looks like a big improvement over Softer Tan, aka "I'll take your blandest beige please" thanks, yeah softer tan was everywhere in the mid 2000s when this place was built dealing with that long wall is a challenge but I did the best I can. It's also nine feet to the soffit. here's a pic from another spot
|
# ? Sep 30, 2021 17:06 |
|
Is an oil based primer recommended when doing latex paint on the wall that's exposed between the range and the microwave?
|
# ? Oct 12, 2021 02:05 |
|
The only reason I could think to use one there would be if the wall has any stains or odor from cooking that you want to seal. Otherwise not necessary.
|
# ? Oct 12, 2021 02:34 |
|
Final Blog Entry posted:The only reason I could think to use one there would be if the wall has any stains or odor from cooking that you want to seal. Otherwise not necessary. well my painter said that he does it for some people because there's a concern about grease, oil, food getting onto the wall from the stovetop every so often. I could certainly see how that could happen if you cooked a lot.
|
# ? Oct 12, 2021 15:18 |
|
If the wall isn't well sealed to begin with (a cheap builder flat for instance) then it would give the new topcoat some better durability and scrubbability, so yeah I could see that as well. Certainly won't hurt anything.
|
# ? Oct 12, 2021 15:56 |
|
Final Blog Entry posted:If the wall isn't well sealed to begin with (a cheap builder flat for instance) then it would give the new topcoat some better durability and scrubbability, so yeah I could see that as well. Certainly won't hurt anything. I'm guessing the wall is unfinished because there is currently a steel plate on there, which was put in along with the appliances when it was built. It's definitely not painted at least. perhaps that whole area should have the oil primer sprayed on? i.e. where the plate is, and just to the right and the left where the outlets are. to clarify, I'm waiting for new appliances, which is why it hasn't been painted yet. The plate is basically connected to the microwave.
|
# ? Oct 12, 2021 16:05 |
|
Yeah may as well just prime that whole area, that would also help even out the porosity between the exposed painted areas and whatever is behind that plate so you get a consistent appearance.
|
# ? Oct 12, 2021 16:34 |
|
I don't have a lot of stamina. What are the likely effects in paint job consistency if I paint a room one wall at a time?
|
# ? Oct 14, 2021 22:37 |
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:I don't have a lot of stamina. What are the likely effects in paint job consistency if I paint a room one wall at a time? Also interested in the answer for this question, but my excuse is I'm lazy.
|
# ? Oct 14, 2021 23:31 |
|
Wouldn't be any problem as long as you're painting full walls corner to corner. Don't paint half a wall or just do all your cut in before you decide to take a break for a few weeks. Also best to buy enough paint for the full project up front, bring it back to the paint store and have them shake it as needed.
|
# ? Oct 15, 2021 00:08 |
|
What's the recommendation on shaking paints? I've had some of mine for a little while.. we talking like, days? Weeks?
|
# ? Oct 15, 2021 01:19 |
|
Johnny Truant posted:What's the recommendation on shaking paints? I've had some of mine for a little while.. we talking like, days? Weeks? I would guess weeks to months. If you stir it and can scrape sediment up off the bottom then you are probably due for shaking. That being said, if you're willing to really go hog wild you can definitely stir it yourself. Assuming you are sealing the cans up well with a rubber mallet I literally invert and roll around my cans before using them. I can't do that above a gallon. You really want to scrape up the bottom and really stir it up, it's one of those "do it for as long as you think it needs, then do it that long again." This is harder when it's super full because if you knock anything out you're going to be making an inconsistent product if it's very separated.
|
# ? Oct 15, 2021 01:28 |
|
If it's been a few days up to a week or so I'd at least give it a quick stir and/or shake by hand before using. Much beyond that if it's a full can or bucket just bring it to the store and have them toss it in the shaker for a few minutes. Partial cans are much easier to just shake the poo poo out of it by hand for a few minutes since there's room for everything to move around in there. If I'm grabbing a half empty gallon out of the closet to touch up I'll just scrape the bottom with a stir stick real quick and hand shake for a few minutes, even if it's been sitting for a year. Just make sure it looks consistent in the can pretty much.
|
# ? Oct 15, 2021 01:41 |
|
so most of the spots my painter mudded look pretty good, but part of that is definitely that I only have one light source (above vanity) and the only part of the wall that it hits directly where you can see it from a lot of different angles is the opposite wall, right next to the door. if you move somewhat to the right (well to be more specific, if you are taking a dump lol), you can see the issue (there's no other mudded spots that have direct light that you can really see from this angle). It's not really noticeable if you are in front or to the left of it. I'm not sure what to do, would some sort of artificial orange peel texture help? Also he said when he first started, he did an initial layer of paint as the "primer" then did a second coat of paint. He's been over the whole bathroom a few more times though due to the paint tinting issue I mentioned. https://imgur.com/a/kDKsE8N actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Oct 21, 2021 |
# ? Oct 21, 2021 00:37 |
|
It does look like you have an orange peel on the walls so that would help break up the shape and outline and blend it a little. You'll never blend the texture and it will still be noticeable but would at least look better if textured reasonably well. If the patch is just porous and soaking up the paint you may want to spot prime as well. If it's sitting proud on the wall or feels rough or gritty the patch may need some more sanding first too.
|
# ? Oct 21, 2021 02:20 |
|
All my bathrooms are a dreadful beige color. They're also all small. Two of them are beadboard, one all old, the other a mix of two different periods + plywood fake beadboard. What does wall prep look like in a wall you can't/shouldn't sand? I'm thinking fill the holes, sand any obvious drips, wash with TVP. Anything else?
|
# ? Oct 27, 2021 15:36 |
|
If there's enough sheen on the existing paint that you feel it needs scuffing but you can't/don't want to sand you can wipe it down with a liquid deglosser/ liquid sandpaper. It creates kind of a temporary tack on the existing paint for better adhesion. If you use one of those products, check the instructions because they'll usually tell you that you should paint within a certain time window after wiping the wall for it to be effective.
|
# ? Oct 27, 2021 15:58 |
|
Final Blog Entry posted:It does look like you have an orange peel on the walls so that would help break up the shape and outline and blend it a little. You'll never blend the texture and it will still be noticeable but would at least look better if textured reasonably well. it's extremely smooth, so I'll ask my painter about the orange peel texture
|
# ? Oct 27, 2021 16:16 |
|
I'm not sure if this is more of a painting or an interior design question. I tried painting some ballet white (with with brown undertone that I put in my living room) squares in the entry and it doesn't look very good. I'm looking for a third paint to go in the bedroom and entry, but I wanted to see how the living room paint looked in the entry first. I'm not sure why, I'm wondering if it's because there's no natural light in the entry. I've noticed that with natural light, ballet white looks much more white, but with artificial light, particularly low color temperature (2700 or 3000K) more brown comes out, giving it a really creamy color. The entry only has one light source, a semi-flush right above the door. My interior designer is coming by tomorrow, and I'm going to ask about sticking with gray, but a much lighter gray than what I have right now (stonington gray). Stonington is only a 60 LRV, and the grays I'm considering for the bedroom are in the 79-85 range. Not that color on a monitor is accurate, but here they are. They are all very similar - it's almost impossible to even tell the difference looking at the samples. https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/color-overview/find-your-color/color/2124-60/misty-gray?color=2124-60 https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/color-overview/find-your-color/color/2126-70/chalk-white?color=2126-70 https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/color-overview/find-your-color/color/2133-70/tundra?color=2133-70 There's also this one, which has a bit of a blue undertone for that "cool" feeling. https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/color-overview/find-your-color/color/2128-70/lily-white?color=2128-70 I was wondering about how to figure out color from RGB formula. For example: Ballet white is 228 222 207, which gives the brown undertone. I was looking at the color wheel, and I think what is happening is that the red and green is pretty similar, so you are in the yellow region, and since the blue is lower, you end up closer to the middle, which gives the brown. Then depending on where each value is from 0-255, the color will get more "white" So if you instead did 128 122 107, you have the same differential, but it's a darker brown. here's an online tool that makes it easier https://www.rapidtables.com/web/color/color-wheel.html also I'm going to mention this site again, the tools are great https://www.easyrgb.com/en/compare.php#inputFORM compare allows you to find the RGB of any paint, and see what is the closest from a bunch of collections match let's you find the closest paint to a given RGB actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Oct 27, 2021 |
# ? Oct 27, 2021 17:24 |
|
well the fun never stops, I got a sample of BM misty gray, and then a sample of stonington gray just to paint over when I'm done (until I can get the wall repainted). The misty gray they gave me was REALLY bright. it almost looked like it was just the base with no tint - much brighter than the misty gray sample sheet. the stonington gray that gave me was wayyyy brighter than my wall. I then noticed that the "stonington gray" they gave me looked exactly like misty gray. I think they somehow mislabeled one jar, and then gave me a jar with uh.. no tinting?
|
# ? Oct 30, 2021 04:13 |
|
We decided to go with the “paint every room a different color and have fun” approach to painting our house. We even let our 7 and 8 year old daughters pick the colors for their bedrooms, their bathroom, and the play room (a.k.a future library). Let’s just say I got some looks when I went and picked up 17 different colors of interior paint from our local Sherwin Williams. I’ll post a few pics here and there as I find them in my phone or remember to take them when I’m working on the house. The mudroom got Solaria SW6688. It looks a little brighter in this picture but it’s close enough. We plan on putting some gray cabinets in there and a whitewashed church pew bench, but for now it’s just a blast of sunshine as you enter the house from the garage. Speaking of the garage, our last one never got drywall so this time we insulted and drywalled the garage when we did the house. We were going to just go with white in the garage but then this color caught our eye. Mountain Air SW 6224 It almost looks white until you notice the white door. To be continued…
|
# ? Oct 31, 2021 03:55 |
|
Modus Man posted:Speaking of the garage, our last one never got drywall so this time we insulted and drywalled the garage when we did the house.
|
# ? Oct 31, 2021 19:43 |
|
Any advice for pulling dried paint off of a grout line? I had some bleeding when I painted my bathroom lately. Maybe a thin brush with a tiny bit of thinner?
|
# ? Oct 31, 2021 20:37 |
|
|
# ? Apr 26, 2024 11:54 |
|
Waterbased paint? Stiff bristle nylon brush, scrub with a waterbased remover that says removes dried latex paint. Oops, Goof Off, Goo Gone, Krud Kutter all make one. If that does't work move up to denatured alcohol, or just start with that if you have it handy.
|
# ? Oct 31, 2021 20:49 |