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I really thought a bayonet type connection for two pipes would be straightforward (especially because I mostly copied a thingiverse design), but the retention 'dimple' is either too strong or too weak. I designed a nice springy version, but I can't actually use that as it won't be printable in the final design...
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Jul 22, 2021 15:13
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Paradoxish posted:Going through a ChemE degree filled me with enough stories about the consequences of treating "mostly safe" materials without due respect that I won't go near my resin printer without gloves, long sleeves, and a mask. Needs elaboration, please. e: huh. Creality just came out with a BL touch-alike. https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-cr-touch Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Jul 22, 2021 |
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Jul 22, 2021 15:22
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InternetJunky posted:I'd like to talk about nitrile gloves for resin/print handling since as an alternative I'm actually using super cheopo sandwich gloves similar to what the workers at Subway would use (https://www.amazon.ca/Ronco-Deli-Medium-Disposable-Gloves/dp/B00QEGN8TE/ref=sr_1_10). Most of the time the glove is on for about 10 seconds total (take off flex plate, scrape off prints, put plate back on) and using a nitrile glove for that becomes kind of expensive if you print a lot. They are also great when taking the vats off the machine, since I can take the vat off with one set of gloves and then quickly put on clean gloves and not risk accidentally transferring uncured resin from the gloves underneath the vat. yes, resin actually does penetrate the thin porous material gloves are made from. 15 minutes is the max glove contact time you should have to chemicals like this. you’re not poisoning yourself but you’re absolutely priming yourself to develop a sudden severe and irreversible sensitivity to the resins that (iirc) you pay the bills working with. people who work with resins and epoxies for a lifetime have an almost 50% chance of this happening at some point, the more contact you have the faster it happens, and it generally forces people to change jobs/careers. Get nitrile gloves and change them frequently. Like, a pair shouldn’t be on your hands for an hour if you’ve gotten resin on it, this stuff can and will penetrate all thin stretchy gloves, it’s just a question of speed and degree. this is the worst part of this to cheap out on. Paradoxish posted:Going through a ChemE degree filled me with enough stories about the consequences of treating "mostly safe" materials without due respect that I won't go near my resin printer without gloves, long sleeves, and a mask. this is the right attitude to take, yeah. it seems overkill, but resin sensitization is a statistics game, if you wanna do this for years to come you need to give yourself every advantage. it’s not actually that expensive or difficult to boot. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jul 22, 2021 |
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Jul 22, 2021 17:55
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Ambrose Burnside posted:yes, resin actually does penetrate the thin porous material gloves are made from. 15 minutes is the max glove contact time you should have to chemicals like this. you’re not poisoning yourself but you’re absolutely priming yourself to develop a sudden severe and irreversible sensitivity to the resins that (iirc) you pay the bills working with. people who work with resins and epoxies for a lifetime have an almost 50% chance of this happening at some point, the more contact you have the faster it happens, and it generally forces people to change jobs/careers.
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Jul 22, 2021 18:19
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Alright, just bit the bullet and preordered a Voron 0.1 LDO kit from Fabreeko. Love my Ender 3 V2 for what it is, a starter printer, but there's only so far you can go without throwing money at a cheap design. Ender gets to stick around for larger prints for now, but the Voron will probably be like 90% of my printing. At some point I want to do a 2.4 for my larger prints, but assuming this LDO kit is as good as they say, I'll order their 2.4 kit whenever it drops.
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Jul 22, 2021 18:47
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InternetJunky posted:This is good to know -- I have never heard of resin sensitivity being an issue that could develop. That being said, for myself I'm changing flex plates 15-20 times a day and the plastic gloves are on my hands for 10-15 seconds max. For actual stuff like support work and cleanup I use nitrile gloves. if you’re constantly shedding gloves immediately every time you do The Resin Contact Step you’re honestly probably good, even if the gloves you’re using offer poor protection from chemicals. i’m also not sure the extent using a non-stretchy glove helps, but it probably does, the stretch of nitrile/latex etc is the main thing making those gloves so readily-permeable. the bigger issue is with people repeatedly reusing nitrile gloves, or getting resin on them and wiping it off and continuing to work for however long, not using gloves at all for “just touching it for a sec”, that sort of thing. Just, yeah, acrylate resins are aggressive sensitizing agents, and once/if that happens it can put a serious damper on you working with that material at all going forward, it’s huge, permanent and largely-preventable bummer.
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Jul 22, 2021 19:18
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Bondematt posted:Alright, just bit the bullet and preordered a Voron 0.1 LDO kit from Fabreeko. Fabreeko's great. Get a 1.8 kit once LDO comes out with that. The 1.8 needs more love. (also who are you on the discord?)
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Jul 23, 2021 15:34
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Doctor Zero posted:Needs elaboration, please. Oops, didn't mean to imply they were personal stories so much as just spending four years getting beaten over the head with the importance of proper safety procedures. The worst that ever happened to me personally was getting a bunch of shards embedded in my leg after an idiot blew up an overpressurized glass cylinder. I did have one professor with a severe epoxy sensitivity from constant exposure and that did not sound fun. I'm a computer toucher and I don't use my degree at all, so the least I can do is keep this poo poo in mind when dealing with my own fun-time hobby chemicals. edit- but my understanding of resin sensitivities is that the mechanism is similar to epoxy sensitivities, and that's really not something you want to gently caress around with. it's essentially a "when, not if" kind of thing if you're exposing your skin directly without protection. Paradoxish fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jul 23, 2021 |
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Jul 23, 2021 15:50
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Paradoxish posted:Oops, didn't mean to imply they were personal stories so much as just spending four years getting beaten over the head with the importance of proper safety procedures. The worst that ever happened to me personally was getting a bunch of shards embedded in my leg after an idiot blew up an overpressurized glass cylinder. I did have one professor with a severe epoxy sensitivity from constant exposure and that did not sound fun. So kind of like poison ivy then? I used to think I wasn’t allergic to it and used to pull it out by hand until one day OOPS YOU GET REACTIONS NOW. I was just curious if you had seen or learned of any example cases. Didn’t mean it had to be you or that I doubted it. Just a lot of people say it is bad (and I believe them) but I am curious about how it manifests.
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Jul 23, 2021 16:19
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Doctor Zero posted:So kind of like poison ivy then? I used to think I wasn’t allergic to it and used to pull it out by hand until one day OOPS YOU GET REACTIONS NOW. I developed a sensitivity to d-Limonene and Simpact 60A by being careless with them. Now if I handle either and get them on my skin, my face puffs up and my ears cauliflower.
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Jul 23, 2021 17:06
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Doctor Zero posted:I was just curious if you had seen or learned of any example cases. Didn’t mean it had to be you or that I doubted it. Just a lot of people say it is bad (and I believe them) but I am curious about how it manifests. For what it's worth, the professor I had with the epoxy resin sensitivity (who used to work with the stuff on a factory floor) said he would break out in an oozing rash now if he came into contact with even a few particles. Sounded fairly horrific tbh Didn't think you were accusing me of anything, was just clarifying what I meant.
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Jul 23, 2021 17:10
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Doctor Zero posted:So kind of like poison ivy then? I used to think I wasn’t allergic to it and used to pull it out by hand until one day OOPS YOU GET REACTIONS NOW. I got sensitized to the soap used to clean aircraft. Washing an aircraft a day for a year or two then one day I'm mixing soap and my arms turn red and it feels like I'm on fire. Couldn't even be in the hangar when an aircraft wash was happening because it felt like my mucous membranes were dissolving. The docs gave me a note that said I had become "industrially sensitized" and that it was a not-allergic reaction, so "just take a benadryl and get to washing" wasn't a valid response. It went away after a decade. I learned my lesson about chemicals that can sensitize, though, and follow all PPE requirements, especially at the house.
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Jul 23, 2021 18:51
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It wasn't raptor or chubby dolphin paint was it?
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Jul 23, 2021 19:10
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I'm designing a cast metal part with a significant interior threaded section that's impossible to produce with the usual hobbyist techniques, so i'm gonna be attempting to directly print a dovetail collapsible mold core in Siraya Sculpt Ultra soon, which I've never attempted with the usual CNC machining nor printing. one of these things-  real pain in the rear end to manufacture well by any method, its a ring of thin dovetailed sliding members bearing the casting impression on their outer face that all mate with a tapered dovetailed core in the center, the idea being that inserting/withdrawing the core will smoothly shrink or expand the core, making it possible to mold very challenging features that would otherwise be impossible to demold without breaking the tool. anyways, not only do all the dovetail joints need to mate with very close tolerances, the individual sliders have to run straight and true without any warping/bowing, and the sharp edges on the sliders needs to be as crisp as possible so I don't get huge mold flashing lines all over the inner bore of this part. any tips for best practices here assuming a resin printer? I'm thinking print all components vertically, the 'slow' way, and maybe use support 'towers' alongside/surrounding the thinnest parts, to give some additional support and to provide a supporting matrix of sorts to resist warping during the post-cure. Also probably gonna need to run through a couple prototypes and do a lot of hand finishing to get an acceptable fit-up, but that's a given with any tool like this.
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Jul 23, 2021 19:36
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Looks like something I saw once at a Roehr Tool booth at a tradeshow. Here it is: http://roehrtool.com/dovetail-collapsible-core/ And here's an article about it in related searches on Google: https://www.moldmakingtechnology.com/articles/kenmold-presents-plastic-injection-molding-services-at-amerimold Also an odd article/paper someone wrote about it. https://1library.net/document/qo3j7p5q-modelling-and-analysis-of-collapsible-core.html
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Jul 23, 2021 20:39
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I love 3d printing so much. Need a proprietary parfocal spacer with an unusual m24x0.75 thread for a specialized objective on a Zeiss microscope from the 80s? No problem!   Need to replace a burnt out delaminated polarizer with one of the exact same dimensions? Buy a Zeiss replacement new for 400 bucks, used for [not even currently available], or buy a normal polarizer for 8 bucks and print a holder for it. 
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Jul 23, 2021 21:51
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Ambrose, if you care to share, I would adore seeing those CAD files when you're done, regardless of whether it prints well.
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Jul 23, 2021 22:19
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I've been 3d printing for jewellery applications for 6-7 years now and it wasn't until the last few years I took resin handling seriously with gloves. Thanks goons for reminding me it's a good idea to be as safe as possible. I don't have much knowledge in the area of chemical safety, so is repeated exposure something that would then make you allergic or sensitive to it over time?
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Jul 24, 2021 00:51
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More newbie questions for you guys. Just got my resin in and I'm doing a test print now and it's looking great so that's a plus! I got anycubits plant based resin for the low odor factor and now I'm wondering about cleaning safety. Since it's a plant based resin do I still need to treat the cleaning fluid as a hazardous waste or can I just throw the tub in front of the UV light to harden it all and filter off the bits and bin it? The article about eco resin I read baaaasically clarified it all BUT that and I don't want to go poisoning my well.
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Jul 24, 2021 02:49
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Claes Oldenburger posted:I've been 3d printing for jewellery applications for 6-7 years now and it wasn't until the last few years I took resin handling seriously with gloves. Thanks goons for reminding me it's a good idea to be as safe as possible. Not a doctor, but from everything I've been hearing pretty much
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Jul 24, 2021 05:01
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insta posted:Get a 1.8 kit once LDO comes out with that. The 1.8 needs more love. --edit: Also, you instazx2?
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Jul 24, 2021 11:26
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Combat Pretzel posted:I don't understand the appeal of the V0 in respect to its cost vs its tiny build plate. as someone sourcing v0.1 parts atm: i want to build a printer but i have a tiny appartment and another full size printer would take up too much space. Don't really care about cost vs size since the build is the main appeal. there's also the question of what you are printing, i rarely use even half the volume of my ender 3. So 10cm in each direction is often enough for me.
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Jul 24, 2021 11:49
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Diabeesting posted:More newbie questions for you guys. Just got my resin in and I'm doing a test print now and it's looking great so that's a plus! Yes, you should treat the plant based resin as hazardous but what you described is a good way to dispose of any resin. Fully cure it and toss it. It’s hazardous when uncured. Basically treat it just like any other kind of resin.
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Jul 24, 2021 12:36
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Combat Pretzel posted:I don't understand the appeal of the V0 in respect to its cost vs its tiny build plate. yes. new discord who dis
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Jul 24, 2021 16:00
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NewFatMike posted:Ambrose, if you care to share, I would adore seeing those CAD files when you're done, regardless of whether it prints well. there’s a couple decent examples i found on grabcad, they’re actually fairly straightforward to design once you have the core geometry locked in, it’s just the dovetail sketch lines projected with a slight triangular taper to split the core up into the 6 slides and the single core. there’s other ways to make collapsing cores too, there’s another technique that uses just two intermeshing parts that each resemble an ER collet-sorta slotted thing with flexible fingers. the dovetail core approach is more effective and much more robust a tool, it’s just more involved to machine. also you can just make it without the dovetails, which is what they do for very small-diameter pins where dovetails aren’t practical. then you get a core that needs separate accommodations to hold it assembled in place, and which isn’t automatically self-retracting with a simple pull on the core pin, which frankly i don’t really need for a non-automated molding process. worth trying it the fancy way first b/c it takes no extra effort to do so biracial bear for uncut posted:Also an odd article/paper someone wrote about it. yeah, this looks like the two-part core approach, with a core collapse/demolding aspect (the lever-action bit). i’ve found better documentation of this approach and i suspect it might be little easier/quicker to design and print, but a fragile tooling approach in tool steel might be just non-viable in a fairly brittle resin. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Jul 24, 2021 |
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Jul 24, 2021 17:36
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Dr Sun Try posted:as someone sourcing v0.1 parts atm: And when you print three, four times faster than a typical printer.... a small bed still works out pretty well. Also, it's cute. And for some of us, building a well integrated small machine is satisfying.
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Jul 24, 2021 17:51
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Combat Pretzel posted:I don't understand the appeal of the V0 in respect to its cost vs its tiny build plate. it hauls rear end on any print you can fit into the build plate, and heats quickly
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Jul 24, 2021 18:33
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I don't particularly want to build one myself, but they're really neat and print really fast.
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Jul 24, 2021 18:46
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insta posted:Fabreeko's great. I think I'm just Bondematt on the Voron Discord. I'll definitely be looking at the 1.8 vs 2.4 if they do both kits. Hell by the time I get around to it they'll probably be a new versions.
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Jul 24, 2021 19:43
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insta posted:it hauls rear end on any print you can fit into the build plate, and heats quickly Well, it's the same for any decent CoreXY printer.
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Jul 24, 2021 21:18
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Well, it's the same for any decent CoreXY printer. Is it? A big printer takes more time to heat soak. Uses more power to maintain temp. "acutal print speed" might be the same, but startup is a thing.
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Jul 24, 2021 21:25
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My V2.4 needs ~200W for printing ASA, keeping a 300x300mm bed at 105°C.
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Jul 24, 2021 21:42
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Nerobro posted:Is it? A big printer takes more time to heat soak. Uses more power to maintain temp. "acutal print speed" might be the same, but startup is a thing. 700w A/C bed. Start-up is really not an issue. It's also not the small prints you really want the extra speed on. It's on the big prints.
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Jul 24, 2021 22:02
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ImplicitAssembler posted:It's also not the small prints you really want the extra speed on. It's on the big prints. I dunno. My CR-30 with the 0.8mm nozzle and linear rails has become my goto. It's that much faster, and I don't even need to remove the part. Small parts in as much half the time with the same nozzle on another printer. Edit: half the time, even factoring in the nozzle size. snail fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 24, 2021 23:56
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Does anyone in Canada have a source for a replacement screen for a Mars2 Pro? Strangely enough I'm not having much luck finding one. I'm down one machine as of a few minutes ago. 
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Jul 25, 2021 01:44
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InternetJunky posted:Does anyone in Canada have a source for a replacement screen for a Mars2 Pro? Strangely enough I'm not having much luck finding one. I'm down one machine as of a few minutes ago. I've only ever gone direct through elegoo or amazon. Maybe check out chitu directly as well
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Jul 25, 2021 01:49
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ok cross-platform drama, any other voron discord members annoyed by RoobianGamer yet i keep catching poo poo from the admins re: him
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Jul 25, 2021 02:04
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That some auto-correct thing? There's no one with that name on the Discord. You mean that robertt with two T's guy? --edit: Oh, RubianGamer. IDK, I see he's from Belgium/Netherlands. I'm not sure why the admins are giving you poo poo in regards to him, but it might be an idea to point out that he's from #windmills_waffles, because these idiots are on thin ice due to the Klipper brigading/trolling during Tom Sanladerer's livestreams. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 02:23
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Combat Pretzel posted:That some auto-correct thing? There's no one with that name on the Discord. You mean that robertt with two T's guy? I use roob as habit now so it's less ctrl+f friendly. He's basically just always camping gchat turning every conversation back to him or his projects.
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Jul 25, 2021 02:32
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Why do I feel a strong troll urge coming on.
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Jul 25, 2021 02:40
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