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I own a cheap FDM printer that I've never let run all night for fear of a fire. I am eyeballing resin printers so my son and I can make D&D figures and maybe some tabletop terrain. Looks like Elegoo are pretty popular. It also looks like they have both a Saturn and Mars 3 printer model that might suit my needs. The Saturn is 500 bucks but the Mars 3 is 350. I like the bigger print bed on the Saturn but I don't know if it's worth another 150 bucks. Is there a Goon consensus on best bang for your buck on resin printers for this holiday season?
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Nov 13, 2021 19:41
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| # ¿ May 7, 2024 11:54 |
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Thank you all for the 3d printer feedback. I decided to just go for the Elegoo Saturn. So right now I have the Saturn printer, 1000 grams of standard Elegoo Photopolymer Resin, and a UV curing station kit in my Amazon cart. I plan on getting nitrile gloves and isopropyl alcohol at the store here locally. The UV curing station kit has a resin strainer included. Other than looking into UV glasses, is there anything else I should be picking up before I get started?
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Nov 14, 2021 17:18
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InternetJunky posted:UV glasses? That's a new one for me. What on earth are they for? Yeah I have no idea other than I saw them mentioned for making your own curing station. I have never messed around with UV lights and wasn't sure how dangerous they are to the unprotected eye.
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Nov 14, 2021 17:28
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Sydney Bottocks posted:The UV curing station (assuming it's a premanufactured one, like from Elegoo) should have a lid or door or some sort of cover, so you'd be ok without UV glasses. Ehh I cheaped out and got a lamp and a solar powered spinny table. I figure I can line a box I rig up with aluminum foil or reflective something and make it cure things. It was around 25 bucks compared to like 60 for the pre-built solutions. I won't stare at UV lights though.
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Nov 14, 2021 20:56
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Hey so dumb newbie resin question. I have my Saturn. I have have isopropyl alcohol. I have my curing station setup. I have all the safety stuff I need to print stuff. I have no idea what you do with resin between prints though. Does it just get strained and put back in the bottle? Do people leave it in the printer since it’s got a cover?
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Dec 2, 2021 18:33
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InternetJunky posted:It's fine in the vat as long as you want to leave it (I've left it 6+ months before). Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Not dumb at all. You can leave it in the vat as long as it's covered, or you can strain it and pop it back in the bottle. Either one should be fine. Some people (like me) are lazy and just stir it up before Ithey print, others worry about a leak developing somehow and ruining their machine, and pop the resin back in the bottle. Just depends on how smelly the resin is I guess, and how paranoid you are about the vat leaking. Awesome! Thank you both. I have the included test print going now. We will see how it goes.
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Dec 2, 2021 23:52
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I gouged the FEP on my Saturn all to poo poo trying to peel off my third failed print of a stamp I was trying to make. Lesson learned there. I went ahead and got some more resin and a better funnel when I ordered new stuff. I need to find a tutorial on making my own supports since it prints the bottom supports just fine but as soon as it gets to the square block portion of the stamp it sticks to the bottom of the resin vat.
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Dec 5, 2021 16:54
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Tea Bone posted:I'm looking at getting my first resin printer I just bought a Saturn coming from fdm printer. I am still getting it dialed in and there is a learning curve to printing with resin (don’t ruin your fep on your third print by gouging the poo poo out of it trying to scrape off a failed print). However the detail in resin prints is night and day difference. It’s been great and I plan on printing a ton of miniatures and DnD stuff with my son over this Christmas. I too was considering a Mars 3 but the print bed size difference meant I could do terrain in resin too which was the tipping point for me.
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Dec 8, 2021 21:08
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My Saturn prints are failing. I can get the supports to adhere to the build plate but when it comes time for the actual model they all stick to the fep in the resin vat. I've tried several model types and used pre supported files and created supports in both ChituBox and Lychee. I am using the Elegoo standard resin in grey and have been using their recommended settings (30 second bottom exposure, 2.5 second normal exposure, 0.05mm layer height). Can anyone point me towards what I should be looking at tweaking to help improve my prints? 
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Dec 12, 2021 02:27
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Normally when they don't stick I relevel the bed. So, step 1, relevel. Step 2 is ambient temp, make sure it's warm near the resin. Radiator is fine for this. Cold resin doesn't want to cure and wants to mess up your prints. Step 3 is generally a mixture of "add more supports" and "use spheres instead of minimal contact" because the resin isn't sticking to itself with enough force to overcome the suction force of the plate moving off the bed. Also, make sure you didn't crank the speed up on there cause too fast will do the same thing. Ahh ok I think I see the problem then. My basement is only mid 60s F. Looks like it's outside the optimal resin temperature. Thank you.
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Dec 12, 2021 03:31
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InternetJunky posted:Since I'm an atrocious nitpicker I'll point out that there's no way this is a leveling issue. A leveling issue presents as nothing at all on the build plate. I upped the exposure to 3 seconds and prints came out pretty close to perfect. I just need to work out my rinsing and curing and when and where I remove supports and I think I am ready to show my 17 year old how we can make some minis. Thanks for the help.
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Dec 13, 2021 18:23
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Any recommendations for a wash & cure station for a Saturn? I wanted to make sure I could get this printing before I jumped into post processing automation but I have more money than time and am interested in keeping things are hands off uncured resin as I can. I was eyeballing the Creality Wash and Cure Station UW-02 but wasn't sure if the different brand would make a difference for anything. I don't think the build plate would fit in it even if the connectors were compatible so that's a moot issue.
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Dec 14, 2021 02:23
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InternetJunky posted:My Mars3 sounds like a rusty door every layer. Any recommendations on grease/oil for it? Thanks for this. I bought the plus directly from the anycubic site for 209 bucks shipped.
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Dec 15, 2021 02:11
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I am interested in building a Voron since I am somewhat knowledgeable about electronics and have had a couple of cheap printers in the past. My problem is that I have no practical use for another printer and it’d probably sit in my basement collecting dust after I print spool of filament worth of stuff off of thingiverse.
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Dec 25, 2021 22:25
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| # ¿ May 7, 2024 11:54 |
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Things are heating up in the 3D printing thread. Speaking of heat; depending on where you are in the world, the temperature of the room you print with resin in will affect your print failures. If your room is lower than the temp range listed on the resin you will have to make adjustments to account for the variance. Also the best PPE I bought was a respirator. Even with a mask the resin gave me headaches.
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Jan 25, 2022 20:34
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