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Shitloads of bluetooth devices that you can make calls through do have their lovely own built-in pinhole microphone. Even if that doesn't turn out to be the case, calls made through speakers that can be picked up by the microphone involve echo cancelling, which can be terrible. A solution involving headphones on his end would work better in that regard.
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Jun 15, 2025 22:31
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I don't know how technologically savvy your dad is, or how old. But just in case it's on the further side - worth observing exactly how he is using the phone. Might be a purely practical problem. He says he's not talking at the soundbar but it could be any one of a hundred unexpected reasons because it's some passive knowledge that we take for granted e: I still don't know how my parents occasionally facetime me without sound, or how grandmother-in-law keeps changing the messenger chat theme ("Queer" was a good one, but "Dune 2" was funnier somehow). Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jun 15, 2025 |
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Jun 15, 2025 22:43
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Fruits of the sea posted:e: I still don't know how my parents occasionally facetime me without sound, or how grandmother-in-law keeps changing the messenger chat theme ("Queer" was a good one, but "Dune 2" was funnier somehow). gam-gam is bene gesserit
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Jun 16, 2025 00:28
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I decided to give the FiiO KA11 a try and paired it up with my sennheiser 598SE. I should've probably given the instructions a read before just mindlessly hooking it up the KA11 with my Windows volume at 100% because ouch, that really hurt. It's not like the onboard audio was a problem, I could hear things okay on it, just mostly had everything at 100 to get decent volume, though that might say more about my ears than anything else. After learning the hard way, I put the Windows volume for the headphones at like 30% and then everything else sounded reasonable. Is pairing up/using the FiiO KA11 with the Senn 598 a bad idea? I'm kind of worried if it's too powerful for it or if that's even an issue. Found an article that says the impedance of devices should match or there could be "equipment damage". I would think as long as the volume is low enough that it should be fine and I'd end up hurting my ears before any real damage happened to the headphones.
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Jun 16, 2025 16:31
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Ryuga Death posted:Thank you. Another question, in Windows sound settings, the default quality format for my speakers went to 16 bit 48khz (DVD Quality). Should I leave that alone or change it? I noticed for my headphones that are connected just by the back of the mobo defaulted to 24 bit 48khz (Studio Quality). You can set it to 24 bit 48000 hz, and make sure the settings for allowing apps to take exclusive control are turned on. That allows applications like Tidal or an audio DAW. If you notice weird audio distortions, you can set it back to 16/44 (CD Quality). Realistically though not many people could tell the firfrrrr Ryuga Death posted:I decided to give the FiiO KA11 a try and paired it up with my sennheiser 598SE. I should've probably given the instructions a read before just mindlessly hooking it up the KA11 with my Windows volume at 100% because ouch, that really hurt. It's not like the onboard audio was a problem, I could hear things okay on it, just mostly had everything at 100 to get decent volume, though that might say more about my ears than anything else. Yes, you've got it right.
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Jun 17, 2025 05:26
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Hi, sorry to bother the thread again. Had a question about speaker angle and placement. My PC speakers sit on isolation pads and they face inwards but aiming at my chest I think. Should they be more at an upward angle to face my head/ears? For reference, when I sit, I can see the top of the speakers. It's a pair of KEF Q150 sitting on these isolation pads. Seen some opinions differing on whether to have them pointing straight or inward produces a better sound. Ryuga Death fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Jul 5, 2025 |
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Jul 5, 2025 18:33
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Ryuga Death posted:Hi, sorry to bother the thread again. Had a question about speaker angle and placement. My PC speakers sit on isolation pads and they face inwards but aiming at my chest I think. Should they be more at an upward angle to face my head/ears? For reference, when I sit, I can see the top of the speakers. It's a pair of KEF Q150 sitting on these isolation pads. I prefer to have speakers placed with the tweeters above my ears, and with the speakers toe-in convergence point to be a foot or two behind my head. I find it gives an illusion of more space and openness. It also makes the sweet spot wider, if a bit less direct. Experiment with both and see what you like
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Jul 5, 2025 20:13
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Mederlock posted:I prefer to have speakers placed with the tweeters above my ears, and with the speakers toe-in convergence point to be a foot or two behind my head. I find it gives an illusion of more space and openness. It also makes the sweet spot wider, if a bit less direct. Experiment with both and see what you like When you say above your ears, do you mean having them angled upwards or having them on a stand?
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Jul 5, 2025 22:13
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Ryuga Death posted:When you say above your ears, do you mean having them angled upwards or having them on a stand? On stands, I have a pair of adjustable ones I bought at a secondhand thrift store for a cheap price that I have on my computer desk, and they're pointing slightly downwards E: general best practice is having the tweeters at or slightly above your ear level, wherever the speaker needs to be to make that happen
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Jul 5, 2025 23:29
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Ryuga Death posted:Seen some opinions differing on whether to have them pointing straight or inward produces a better sound. The usual opinion seems to be to aim the speakers at head, but not always. I recently read a comparison between Kef Q Concerto Meta and Monitor Audio Gold 100 G6. While the Kef sounded best aimed straight, the testers found the Monitor Audio was best at 20° angle, and the frequency response indicated the same. Note that they only tested the speakers at sideways angles, I don't think they even considered testing them pointed upwards or downwards.
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Jul 5, 2025 23:47
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Mederlock posted:On stands, I have a pair of adjustable ones I bought at a secondhand thrift store for a cheap price that I have on my computer desk, and they're pointing slightly downwards Would these work well? Probably a good idea to show my desk set up so there's something to refer to. This is an older image, I don't have the right most monitor at the moment.  Your comment about general best practice has me a bit worried about my tv speaker set up. This image is also quite old by now but it's still generally the same. Should I raise these speakers too and if so, how? 
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Jul 6, 2025 00:47
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Nah don't worry there, you're sitting down on a couch, 8' - 15' away when you're there so you're more than likely fine, and as another poster mentioned it's speaker-dependent. If you wanted to try to see if you could even tell the difference with your home theatre speakers, grab a couple thick books or a pair of boxes or something and prop both of them up at or slightly above ear level (when comfortably seated at the couch) and see if you can hear the difference with a piece of music you're very familiar with. When you're sitting at a desk you're significantly closer so the speakers, so the angle is much more pronounced if they're at desk level. If those speaker mounts get you the amount of height you need, they look fine, but you might want more elevation than that depending on how tall you are and your sitting position. Having Speaker stands on your desk also give you more effective desk space! E: These https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Studio-Monitor-Stands-600023/dp/B097CN8G2N might get your speakers just above the monitors, and you could even push the side monitors in up against the central monitor for a more ergonomic monitor layout too Mederlock fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Jul 7, 2025 |
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Jul 7, 2025 01:24
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Mederlock posted:
Thanks for the help. Does it matter that the stands you linked and the clamps I linked are a bit smaller than the speakers I have? The clamps I linked allows for a speaker depth of 9.5 inches and the one you linked is a 9x9 inch platform according to the listing while my q150 speakers has a depth of 10.94 inches. Seems like my speaker would hang a bit over the base of either one. I've just resorted to having the speakers angled a bit upwards using the isolation pads they're already sitting on for now.
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Jul 8, 2025 21:55
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Ryuga Death posted:Thanks for the help. Does it matter that the stands you linked and the clamps I linked are a bit smaller than the speakers I have? The clamps I linked allows for a speaker depth of 9.5 inches and the one you linked is a 9x9 inch platform according to the listing while my q150 speakers has a depth of 10.94 inches. Seems like my speaker would hang a bit over the base of either one. Yeah I wouldn't sweat that at all, my speakers are bigger than the stands. And they've been hanging over my monitors for years now. If it makes you feel better, you can find a stand with a bigger front lip that stops it from sliding forwards
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Jul 9, 2025 00:17
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Bad Munki posted:HDMI-eARC suddenly stopped working on my Samsung S90C and Q990D soundbar. As far as I know, no settings or hardware was changed, it just stopped one day. It failed the day before I had to travel so I just unplugged the soundbar while I was gone so it’d work for the family. Well let's see, it's well into August, I can finally call this resolved. Only multiple months of unending back-and-forth with Samsung, their techs, their scheduling department, local on-site techs, visits getting scheduled and then unilaterally cancelled by Samsung so they could do one more phone call... In the end, they said that yes indeed my poo poo is broken. They refunded me the entire cost of the purchase, including sales tax, and like $20 for my troubles, great. So I sent the soundbar itself to them in exchange for my check. They didn't want any of the satellites or the sub. Two questions: 1) Is there anything at all useful I can do with the two surround speakers and the sub they left behind after all this? They're wireless and the soundbar was their hub, I'm sure it's proprietary tech. But it's sad to trash them. 2) I'm not actually convinced they fully diagnosed the issue. I am of a mind that it's equally possible that the issue lies with the TV itself, which they never really checked at all. So here's my concern: I go buy a new soundbar, plug it in, and boop, same issue manifesting because it's the same TV. Should that happen, I'm pretty much stuck, TV's out of warranty and it was enough of a struggle to get them to recognize the soundbar's warranty which was still valid. If that is the case, is there any possibility that I can get a small module that will take inputs from just a couple devices, use the TV as just a display, and provide its own eARC channel for the soundbar so I'm not relying on the TV? Or some other option that basically circumvents the need for functioning eARC on the TV. Just looking for a backup plan, I just want to have something lined up before I go replace the soundbar.
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Aug 8, 2025 01:58
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It’s impressive that Samsung have been so bad at CEC for like two full decades now. Uniquely bad in an industry chock full of unfinished, buggy software.
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Aug 8, 2025 17:43
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One of my work colleagues was yabbering about tech the other day and he said all his Samsung products had been poo poo. I'm sat there like I know, buddy. I know. They used to be OK like 15 years ago but now, e-waste.
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Aug 9, 2025 06:57
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Bad Munki posted:2) I'm not actually convinced they fully diagnosed the issue. I am of a mind that it's equally possible that the issue lies with the TV itself, which they never really checked at all. So here's my concern: I go buy a new soundbar, plug it in, and boop, same issue manifesting because it's the same TV. Should that happen, I'm pretty much stuck, TV's out of warranty and it was enough of a struggle to get them to recognize the soundbar's warranty which was still valid. If that is the case, is there any possibility that I can get a small module that will take inputs from just a couple devices, use the TV as just a display, and provide its own eARC channel for the soundbar so I'm not relying on the TV? Or some other option that basically circumvents the need for functioning eARC on the TV. To me it sounds like you would still have the problem how the get the sound out of the TV. I assume you will at least watch TV programs from it and would want the audio from use the soundbar instead of the TV speakers. If the TV's eARC really is broken, then your best option is the optical SPDIF output from the TV. The obvious solution would be to connect all the devices directly to the soundbar, but a big problem is that soundbars are quite inadequately equipped with inputs. The best option I could find with quick search was a 2500€ Sennheiser and a 1700€ JBL with 3 HDMI Ins and SPDIF. Those won't last you long. For comparison a 360€ Sony AV-receiver has 4 HDMI and a 550€ Denon has 6 HDMI, both also have SPDIF input. There are small and cheap HDMI switches and they supposedly can switch automatically between inputs when a new one becomes active, but I'm not sure how well those work. They are a bit of a niche device, for most people the TV handles this job. I doubt there's a model with also SPDIF input, so the new soundbar would at least need to have that. Maybe consider biting the bullet, get an AV-receiver and start building a home theater. Theoretically you could connect all your devices to the receiver, connect it to the soundbar with HDMI for video and audio, then the soundbar to the TV for video only and then the TV with SPDIF to the receiver for audio return. Hope you aren't sensitive to latency with game consoles. There are also more expensive AV-receivers with 2 or more HDMI outputs, but I'm not sure if those work for simultaneously outputing audio to the soundbar and video to the TV. Receivers work more simply with separate passive speakers.
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Aug 9, 2025 10:25
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Saukkis posted:Maybe consider biting the bullet, get an AV-receiver and start building a home theater. Antithetical to my goals. I used to have a full-on receiver and amp and all the poo poo that goes with that, I was intentionally simplifying my life and am finding I very much prefer a ready-to-wear solution with a reduced footprint. Like, this is the entire system as it currently stands:  I literally never ever ever under any circumstances need the TV itself to produce audio content. We don't watch broadcast on there, we don't have cable or sat, and there is not a single app the TV offers that I wouldn't rather use the AppleTV version. If I could completely disable all smart functionality, I would do so in a heartbeat. The smartest feature I need from the TV is it automatically switching to whichever input was just activated. That being said, I realize my idea that I could just have a small input mixer that would provide its own eARC functionality is tantamount to the same, just a less capable receiver, or at least a step in that direction. The important part to me here is to make it as transparent as possible in the system. I don't care if it's there, I just don't want to know that it's there. If my 85-year-old parents come over and want to use the TV, I don't want to add a section to the instructions that includes receiver management.
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Aug 13, 2025 17:23
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Looks like that soundbar has two hdmi inputs and one hdmi output. Since you don't need the tv to produce sound and only have two sources, can't you just plug them into the soundbar and connect up your tv to its output without needing earc?
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Aug 13, 2025 17:53
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Yeah, maybe could have, and honestly I should have tried that. The soundbar itself is gone now, I got a warranty refund on it. But TV speakers are generally trash and I was super happy with the soundbar's performance until everything went haywire, so I'm looking to replace it. I just want to make sure I have a backup plan when I replace it, and that may be just the thing. Maybe I'm actually glad I didn't think of that at the time because then I probably wouldn't have pursued the warranty claim so aggressively and I'd have a half-functional soundbar. But yeah, sounds like I have a couple options here if the TV itself is actually the problem, so that'll probably suffice to give me enough confidence to do this again. Either use the soundbar to switch inputs, or use an input switcher, or get a minimal proper receiver. Or it'll just work the way it's supposed to!
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Aug 13, 2025 18:16
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My simple setup is to push the TV output via 1/8th" or optical spdif out to a stereo or 2.1 amp and speakers.
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Aug 13, 2025 22:22
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Bad Munki posted:Antithetical to my goals. I used to have a full-on receiver and amp and all the poo poo that goes with that, I was intentionally simplifying my life and am finding I very much prefer a ready-to-wear solution with a reduced footprint.  Bought a Yamaha avr and it died in barely three years. Never again. I've had this setup since 2016 on three different televisions, and zero issues.
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Aug 13, 2025 23:02
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I have an LG c2 which does not support dts, and as such will not pass dts through to a receiver that is connected to the arc HDMI port. If I bought a receiver that supported dts formats and connected a Blu-ray or Nvidia shield directly to the receiver and then connected the receiver to the LG C2, would the receiver be able to decode the dts signals, or do all devices in the chain have to support it? Is there anything else I should be aware of in this situation, like support for video formats like dolby vision, etc?
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Aug 18, 2025 20:31
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The receiver can pull whatever if it’s the first device in the chain The receiver must support hdmi 2.1 for some newer stuff but not Dolby vision I think, to display to the tv (variable refresh rate for example).
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Aug 19, 2025 17:32
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Dogen posted:The receiver can pull whatever if it’s the first device in the chain Um actually: quote:https://www.audioholics.com/audio-video-cables/hdmi-2.1-1#:~:text=And%20since%20all%20of%20the,4K%20120Hz%2C%20and%20the%20ability The industry decided that every feature of 2.1 is optional, while still allowing everyone to say their cable/port is hdmi 2.1, so you'll really need to do your homework to know what your tv/avr/cables/consoles actually support.
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Aug 20, 2025 18:06
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Mister Facetious posted:The industry decided that every feature of 2.1 is optional, while still allowing everyone to say their cable/port is hdmi 2.1, so you'll really need to do your homework to know what your tv/avr/cables/consoles actually support.
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Aug 20, 2025 18:23
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I fell down a bit of a rabbit hole and ended up looking at speaker stuff again. I have a Kef Q250C center speaker for my tv. Is there any reason to upgrade it to the Kef Q6 Meta or are all the reddit posts talking about things I won't really notice?
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Aug 25, 2025 06:21
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Ryuga Death posted:I fell down a bit of a rabbit hole and ended up looking at speaker stuff again. I have a Kef Q250C center speaker for my tv. Is there any reason to upgrade it to the Kef Q6 Meta or are all the reddit posts talking about things I won't really notice? Probably won't notice
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Aug 25, 2025 13:54
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I've noticed that movie files I play often have audio issues - before in VLC, same thing in INIA (on a mac). the issue being that I find I have to change the volume often. for example if a scene is quiet and just has some dialogue, I have to turn it up. but then if there is some loud noises like an explosion, it's wayyyy too loud and I have to turn it down. How do I fix this? I see there is an audio panel with equalizer in INIA but have no idea how to use it.
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Aug 29, 2025 22:50
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modern design slut posted:I've noticed that movie files I play often have audio issues - before in VLC, same thing in INIA (on a mac). the issue being that I find I have to change the volume often. for example if a scene is quiet and just has some dialogue, I have to turn it up. but then if there is some loud noises like an explosion, it's wayyyy too loud and I have to turn it down. How do I fix this? I see there is an audio panel with equalizer in INIA but have no idea how to use it. IINA supports replaygain (directly in 1.4.0 beta train, with advanced command lines in 1.3.x) to keep the volume levels consistent, did you try turn it on?
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Aug 30, 2025 07:44
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SlowBloke posted:IINA supports replaygain (directly in 1.4.0 beta train, with advanced command lines in 1.3.x) to keep the volume levels consistent, did you try turn it on? oh thanks! do I use track gain or album gain? and are there any other settings I should change?
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Aug 30, 2025 14:40
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modern design slut posted:oh thanks! do I use track gain or album gain? and are there any other settings I should change? I think you should use track gain, album gain is for music from a specific disc.
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Aug 30, 2025 15:36
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Replaygain attempts to keep a consistent volume level between different files by calculating a (sort of) average level for each file and setting a single offset parameter for the whole file, so the average of all the different files ends up playing back as roughly the same. It will not change relative volume levels within a file. To do that, you need a dynamic compressor. There is one built into VLC for example.
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Aug 30, 2025 17:39
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ohhhh ok. I tried this but it doesn't end up saving in my custom filter list for some reason https://github.com/iina/iina/discussions/3870
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Aug 30, 2025 19:58
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this is what I tried adding but it doesn't do anything?
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Aug 31, 2025 13:42
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From briefly skimming the docs, try changing that threshold to -20. I’d bet you’re not even touching audio at +20. You need to set your threshold so that it’s right at, or slightly above the sounds or dialogue you consider a nominal level. Once the comp really gets “into” the audio, a 20:1 ratio may sound a little squished. 3 or 4:1 might be a little more sensible. Assuming those numbers are dB, I’m not sure you need that much makeup gain. Unless you’re having to max out your VLC volume, you don’t need any makeup.
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Aug 31, 2025 15:35
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thanks. i went back to the latest stable IINA version and it allowed me to save it this time.
modern design slut fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Aug 31, 2025 |
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Aug 31, 2025 16:51
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Looking to get an easy to use turntable that is cheap and doesn't gently caress up records. Built-in pre-amp would be great, too. It's not for me, thanks! Also some decent active speakers would be nice to hear an opinion on, too. Max $150. LRADIKAL fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Sep 4, 2025 |
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Sep 4, 2025 16:38
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| # ? Nov 8, 2025 16:47 |
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LRADIKAL posted:Looking to get an easy to use turntable that is cheap and doesn't gently caress up records. Built-in pre-amp would be great, too. It's not for me, thanks! Vinyl thread can probably help you out better: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3021252
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Sep 4, 2025 21:03
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