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we got a headphone to line-out question in the rPi thread. Anybody know how the tech works? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3468084&perpage=40&pagenumber=261&noseen=1
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| # ¿ Nov 9, 2025 10:50 |
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Do people still buy dedicated mp3 players? I have an ipod shuffle 2GB, but its lack of Bluetooth and only 2gb is really a drag. cool kids are modding/refurbing their own iPods
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I would try to save the speakers. Those are probably fine and would still work well.
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^^^this now that I got a chance to look at it on my desktop instead of absently phoneposting: if it's just bad in 1 channel or something wrong with the mixer/preamp/etc then all of that should be fairly drop-in fixable with modern components or even good used stuff bought locally or through reverb. In any case I would pay a consult fee to your best local professional AV company to at least give you some options at various performance and cost levels/saving old parts/used/etc/whatever your needs and budget are before dropping $1000+ on a rack amp maybe the equipment needs servicing or repair and maybe they can perform/arrange/facilitate that for you if they're that kind of shop Scott Baculum fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Dec 28, 2023 |
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Internet Explorer posted:I have a large stereo setup with an equally large subwoofer located behind a listening couch. How bad of an idea would it be to put a 2-3 inch solid wood table over it? There would be a maybe... 6 inch gap or so above the subwoofer before the table. I mostly care about the listening at the couch, less so with the rest of the room. where does the driver aim?
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Internet Explorer posted:Good question! It is front firing. Parallel to the couch and would be parallel to the table. This is it - https://hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-2-mk5-subwoofer As long as the driver isn’t being blocked or blasting on something that can be induced to vibrate you should be fine with a table over it At my old place I had a basket full of blankets/throws and pillows sitting directly on top of my sub and it never affected anything.
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Ham Equity posted:One of the offices that I support has a Factor V-460 mixer amp wired into a house sound system in their lobby. They want to play royalty-free music off of basically an iPod. What would be a good .mp3 player to use these days? My usual go-to of Wirecutter doesn't seem to keep a list of well-regarded .mp3 players; it would be best if it didn't have a battery so we wouldn't have to worry about it swelling or exploding or anything, and we can just plug it into wall power. Their budget for this is pretty minimal, I doubt they'd be willing to spend more than a couple hundred dollars; is my best bet going to be just a surplus iPhone? You could get something like a used DVD or cheap Blu-ray player that plays mp3s off of a CD or something that plays files off of a storage drive/USB stick instead
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Tad Naff posted:I am an old man who likes to listen to the radio while walking the dog. But I also would like to use Bluetooth earphones, because the dog is young and impulsive and I've had my earphones ripped out more than a few times from the cable getting looped around something as the dog lunges at whatever squirrel. Anything I've found so far is either BT receiver only, or transmits over BT except for FM, or will do it but you still have to have wired earphones plugged in to act as the antenna. So: is there a pocket FM radio that transmits over Bluetooth, without any extra things hanging off of it? Digital tuning would be a plus. No need for anything other than that. you'd be better off streaming your radio station of choice over internet via your phone anything else is going to require you to connect some dongle-based bluetooth headphones to the analog headphone jack of something like a pocket FM radio
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Gangringo posted:I'm looking for a good idiot-proof streaming audio player that works with Apple music. Ideally something small with a display that will easily interface with the apple music app and output to an amplifier or be an amplifier itself. You want a receiver, probably easiest to use an AV receiver with AirPlay and bluetooth capabilities. Or you could get a dongle(s) to handle receiving AirPlay and Bluetooth if you already have a reciever/amp in place. Controlling Apple Music could then be done from any iPhone/Mac/iPad/etc most recent (last like ~10 years) Denon and Yamaha receivers do AirPlay, not sure about receiving bluetooth. You can always add a cheap bluetooth dongle that's just set up to work with the projector. Scott Baculum fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Feb 21, 2024 |
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Gangringo posted:This doesn't say it supports apple music. My understanding is that airplay is an audio connection over wifi and the phone app still does all the processing. I'm looking for something that will continue to function even if it loses connection to her phone. your best bet in this regard is to have a dedicated playback device, either an AppleTV or computer or iPad/iPod Touch/whatever physically plugged into your receiver/amp, or an Airplay device like an iPad/iPhone/iPod touch/computer/etc that only serves the function of playing Apple Music
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Gangringo posted:Yeah, my own research is showing me devices with native apple music support essentially don't exist. I feel like such a boomer trying to find something that does what I want that also has buttons and a volume knob as a backup and isn't a complete overkill home theater receiver. yeah, it’s not a radio station that you can dial into, it’s a streaming service that requires scrolling and a GUI so them’s the breaks, but I dig. It’s a real pain in the rear end for setting something up without connecting a TV, etc, to it what is your current setup right now? could you give us some more details about how you envision everything working and whom is going to be using it? It really does sound like what you ultimately want is a home theater receiver for your living room TV or whatever with an outdoor Zone 2 in the yard. But also you could, like, bring a bluetooth speaker or whatever into the yard whenever you’re there and stream/bluetooth directly to it too. Like there are a lot of very different options to kind of accomplish what you want, but none of them seem ideal.
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Steve Yun posted:
have you tried running them off the built in amps? Use the line out on the receiver or another kind of line (or maybe tape I guess) level source
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Steve Yun posted:Welp I don’t have XLR out on the receiver What kind of outs do you have? You can get RCA to XLR cables for ~$10 online
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EL BROMANCE posted:I have a pair of the Mackie CR3 monitors that have the annoying issue where the lovely switch on the back causes one of them to drop out a lot. There is a fix on YouTube that involves cutting a pin, but I'm not convinced this is going to work for my version of the issue. Depending on your budget, you could get an inexpensive and small mixer/interface that would do that switching/mixing for you. Then you could also get a pair of “real” monitors like LSRs or ADAMs or KALI or something similar and use the mixer/interface as your preamp. It’s a sizable step up in budget (like $300-$400), but you’d have a nicer and much more durable setup. Not to be elitist or to diss some speakers that you like or your buying decisions, etc, but those Mackies are pretty renowned for being unreliable and poor quality. It’s not a question of if they fail but when. I don’t recommend jumping back onto the ownership boat with them, because at a certain point you’re just buying future e-waste when you could invest in something much longer lasting. I’d also recommend Audioengine or Kanto if you want something less expensive and fiddly than monitors but still much better than the Mackies. Both brands come in at the mostly $150-$500 range across lots of products and both have multiple inputs, not sure about your requirement for source blending tho. Scott Baculum fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Mar 22, 2024 |
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Schurik posted:A friend is starting a small business where she needs to record short to medium length training videos, has been using her Laptop mic so far, and is looking for a proper microphone. I had a look around and didn't find a thread dedicated to microphones, so I'll ask here: what's a good starting point for those? So far I've got the Audio-Technica AT2020USB+ and the Razer Seiren Mini on my radar - I found those via "whats a good mic for streamers/podcasters", and they seem fine for their respective prices, but I'm trying to actually help her and not suggest the first thing I find, I'm clueless myself however. I'd love to hear some opinions - let's say hard upper limit of 200 bucks. Nothing professional, just something that prerecords audio with high quality, and is easy to set up and use. If there *is* a thread or any other place where this question would be better asked, please let me know too! Blue Yeti is an industry standard for a reason, currently still experiencing Prime Day-adjacent discounts
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Inceltown posted:Could you just repurpose an old phone connected to a speaker and not put any of the distracting stuff on it that you have on your actual phone. Bonus points for not needing to buy more stuff if you go this route. yeah, this or an old tablet that only gets used to set alarms and play music
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qirex posted:There is a bunch of music actually mixed in Atmos but I can’t help but believe it’s mostly a gimmick for headphones. The toggle should only make a difference for Atmos tracks, if it’s doing something to stereo music that’s weird. there’s AI-based tricks that will try to isolate and place the various tracks in virtual space 100% a gimmick thing unless you’re listening to specifically mixed poo poo/listening to specifically mixed poo poo within a “Spatial Audio” software wrapper/etc
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I have a science project to replace some old house intercom speakers (and its head unit) with more conventional ones. Disregarding all the fun and games with driving them, is there a category of speaker that should have a fairly balanced frequency profile that is no thicker than 3 and a half inches? We're talking about literally 2x4 lumber here for the walls and that kind of makes a limit if I want to use the existing furniture for it. Speaking of that, the old speakers have something like a 7.25" diameter. The mounts are basically screw holes in a square around it 136mm apart. JBL has an extensive line of in-wall/in-ceiling stuff at all sizes and price points. A lot of it is quite good and also inexpensive. There’s stuff for dropping into light enclosures, etc and for retrofitting old systems and also stuff that you may have to cut a box for.
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bigperm posted:It's a Pioneer SX-205. No digital inputs on it. It looks like the bluetooth adapter only supports SBC. I think that's my problem. The main reason I even want to stream is to watch movies on my tablet really loud lol. I guess I will look for a better bluetooth adapter. What’s your budget? A $99 Wiim Mini should solve all of your wireless streaming problems and more but it might be slight overkill for you. But on the upside, it’s a solid and high quality piece from a company with a customer relations dept that should give you years of reliable use and if you ever decide to upgrade your setup/add new pieces/build another setup elsewhere it’s totally “endgame” for the vast majority of ppl.
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bigperm posted:I ordered this one already. The Wiim looks cool but yeah I think it's overkill for me. That 1Mii seems to be leaning pretty heavily on Wiim’s brand and logo, etc. Its probably great, 14K reviews with an average of 4.5 stars is a lot even if some of them are probably fake, and Bluetooth transmitters are commodity goods and the underlying hardware is probably some good off-the-shelf parts, but if it doesn’t work out well or it starts giving you problems don’t be afraid to return it. IIRC Logitech also still makes an inexpensive RCA Bluetooth dongle that is either a rebranded white label thing or it’s just been cloned and knocked off a bajillion times with mixed results.
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reposting from Mac thread:Taima posted:I'm having a bit of trouble with my audio setup on MacOS.
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bird with big dick posted:My 19 year old Denon I use for PC audio is taking a poo poo and for the first time I don't have a spare receiver around to use. Needs to power a pair of LS50 Metas, loudly, and have a sub output. Optical input would be nice but analog or HDMI would also be fine. What you got? For a bit more money ($200-550 all in depending on what you ended up getting and how) you could get something like a Yamaha or Onkyo, Denon, etc, stereo amp or receiver or thereabouts and have something that doesn’t run off of an external laptop PSU. The market is rife with these new Chinese sub-$200 Class D amps and I’m sure a lot of them are aces and will prove themselves in time, but for now these commodity PSU-based units still seem really janky when name brand companies are making relatively inexpensive “real” receivers in the old school way that have a proven record of running ~20+ years. If you don’t want to wait for something to go on sale, Parts Express will sell you an AS301 for $350, which is hardly my favorite price or unit (I’d go 501 or 701 ideally, or eBay’s got a silver 301 which they don’t even make any more for $298) but is plenty solid, 60WPC, sub out, bulletproof etc. Even the RS202 ($180) and RN303 ($250), which are a cut below the AS as amplifiers but have more networking features, would be a better choice IMO. Scott Baculum fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Mar 16, 2025 |
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passive speakers and a separate amp or receiver is almost always the best option, unless you specifically need desktop monitors or space is at a real premium
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If I have some (older, larger, like 10” woofer-sized) loudspeakers in long term storage, is there any issue with having them front-to-front? Will the drivers get damaged somehow? I figured it was a good way to prevent something like a foot from accidentally getting shoved through a driver when I rummage around in the storage space, but now I’m worried that the drivers will fatigue each other somehow or pull/push each other out of alignment, interfere magnetically, etc. Something probably totally stupid and irrational.
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bird with big dick posted:Anyone have a preferred supplier of flat pack (e: ported) subs using one or two 18” or 21” drivers? Parts Express? Edit: IDK if they’re still doing kits, you’d have to grab the enclosure, driver, and plate amp (if that’s what you’re gonna go with) separately Scott Baculum fucked around with this message at 16:28 on May 29, 2025 |
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bird with big dick posted:I don’t think they have much other than basic sealed cubes. Huh. IIRC they once had ported enclosures in that size, maybe not. Maybe Madisound?
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Ryuga Death posted:Sorry if this isn't the correct place to ask this but it seemed like the best option. I have a general question about my current PC audio set up and was looking for improvements or recommendations, if any exist. The HDMI signal going to the AVR has video and audio signals. The AVR passes the full signal to the monitor (so if it was a TV you’d still be able to use the built in TV speakers if you wanted to) and also outputs the sound via your speakers and subwoofer. An AVR contains an amplifier and a DAC. The DAC takes the digital audio signal from your PC’s HDMI out and converts it into an analog signal, which is amplified by the amplifier section and drives the speakers. You could eliminate the AVR, run your monitors straight to your GPU, and use a much physically smaller 2.1 channel amp like a Fosi Audio unit or similar. You could run analog out from your computer’s headphone port, but those are often noisy, I would recommend an inexpensive USB DAC, even a cheap dongle DAC like the Apple/FiiO ones. The AVR probably has its benefits like a remote control, so you’ll have to look for gear that has similar features if you want them.
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Ryuga Death posted:Thank you for helping. Yerp. Although that particular Fosi unit is pretty old at this point, and has been supplanted by a lot of other amps by a couple of manufacturers, including Fosi. Otherwise yeah, you got the idea. You could also look at something that has a headphone amp+mic input for your Sennheiser, maybe a preamp that contains a DAC if not a complete all-in-one unit that can also drive speakers.
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that AVR is almost certainly going to outlast your PC. Good receivers made by companies like Yamaha will run for decades. If you don’t want to use HDMI, you could grab one of the aforementioned inexpensive USB C DAC dongles and a $10 3.5mm to RCA cable and run it that way too. Easy peasy. Goonspeed 🫡
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I love it when goons deliver
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Ryuga Death posted:Sorry, I have another question though this might be more PC focused. As previously stated, I have a 2.1 setup from my Yamaha AVR with audio delivered to it through the 5070ti's HDMI. Since I just installed Windows 11, should I continue to configure the Windows sound/speaker settings as Stereo and setting both speakers as Full Range speakers? Yes and yes. You want the full range signal sent to your receiver since you have a subwoofer. The receiver will handle crossover duties sending the bass to the sub and hi-pass to the speakers
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Ryuga Death posted:Thank you. Another question, in Windows sound settings, the default quality format for my speakers went to 16 bit 48khz (DVD Quality). Should I leave that alone or change it? I noticed for my headphones that are connected just by the back of the mobo defaulted to 24 bit 48khz (Studio Quality). How is it connected? If you have the option to play at 24 I don’t see why not, but also you prolly won’t notice a difference.
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Fruits of the sea posted:e: I still don't know how my parents occasionally facetime me without sound, or how grandmother-in-law keeps changing the messenger chat theme ("Queer" was a good one, but "Dune 2" was funnier somehow). gam-gam is bene gesserit
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wolrah posted:I've been interested in picking up a multitrack audio interface and a mixer for both light game streaming and dinking around with synths and have always liked the idea of having them both be the same device, but for the longest time the only mixer I could find that could appear as multiple independent stereo interfaces over USB was the Soundcraft Signature MTK which is enormous, somewhat old, and apparently has a flawed power supply design doomed to repeated failure. Now the Zoom Livetrak L6max seems to be a perfect fit but I'm seeing a lot of people complaining about how its sample rate is locked to 48kHz. Tascam Model series?
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Olympic Mathlete posted:My cousin is looking for a set of bookshelf speakers with Bluetooth. Any decent option out there for not a whole stack of cash? yes
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| # ¿ Nov 9, 2025 10:50 |
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doctorfrog posted:Looking for portable Bluetooth speaker recommendations at the sub $100 range, stereo preferred. Mostly for fairly quiet listening in a small room indoors that occasionally gets turned up. I have a blue Anker speaker that I paid like $25 or $30 for back in 2018 and it’s been more than adequate to play music and podcasts and whatnot in labs, bathrooms, kitchens, outside, etc. Nice and portable too, fits comfortably in a backpack bottle pocket, etc. Still kicking, haven’t timed out the battery but it seems fine enough. Materials/rubber coating are holding up well. It’s currently living on the bathroom counter for “morning routine audio” duty and I charge it like once every two weeks/when it runs out of juice. I’ve always been vaguely meaning to replace it with something more permanent/that can connect to a WiFi-based system like Wiim or AirPlay or whatever, but it does the job, it resists water well, and it’s not a pain in the rear end to switch on and connect to, so I’ve just kept using it, which is about as good of an endorsement as I can give a seven year old Bluetooth speaker, especially one that I bought as a stopgap/budget buy Scott Baculum fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Nov 6, 2025 |
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