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Sadi posted:I also have to agree with LS7. Driving one with straight pipes is animalistic. The maintenance schedule is so demanding, though: oil whenever it's due, air filter at 25k, spark plugs at 100k, coolant at 150k. Who can keep up!?
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Mar 3, 2015 18:23
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Giblet Plus! posted:Toyota 22RE. The thing is a tank. Unbreakable. Possibly the best Toyota engine ever. mafoose posted:LOL. Gutless piece of junk that eats timing chains and head gaskets. What were you doing to the poor thing? Mine had 250k on it with zero problems, zero maintenance, and a teenage driver.
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Mar 3, 2015 20:57
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 Only because it and its accessories makes me so much money.
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Mar 4, 2015 03:08
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KozmoNaut posted:Lanz Bulldog:  Awesome to see in action. They shake the ground from ages away.
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Mar 4, 2015 05:44
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If we are counting aircraft engines, the Soloy Dual Pac is one of my favorites. It is 2 PT6 engines connected to a single gear box and a single propeller. Best part is, since PT6s are free turbines, you can run with either side failed.
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Mar 4, 2015 06:55
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Lancia V4.
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Mar 4, 2015 20:31
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Giblet Plus! posted:Toyota 22RE. The thing is a tank. Unbreakable. Possibly the best Toyota engine ever. mafoose posted:LOL. Gutless piece of junk that eats timing chains and head gaskets. Such a polarizing engine. Either 'tank' or 'junk.' No in-between. It is pretty, and every one i've driven with it has been pretty top-notch in-spite of its 'moon mileage,' as Slavvy would describe it.
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Mar 5, 2015 02:32
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LS1 or supercharged GM 3800
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Mar 5, 2015 20:13
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DZ302 from the original Camaro Z/28. 
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Mar 6, 2015 00:45
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4 pages and no 1UZ-FE? For shame!
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Mar 7, 2015 07:29
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:4 pages and no 1UZ-FE? For shame! Limited (and expensive) aftermarket, small displacement, only found in a couple cars? I guess it revs alright, but for the price it would cost to build a reasonably powerful one, you can build a SBC to rev just as high.
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Mar 7, 2015 08:52
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:4 pages and no 1UZ-FE? For shame! Yeah blame me for that, I think I'm the only active poster who currently owns one (I think kevbarlas is still driving the LS400 he bought as a donor for the van but he's not around much outside his thread). And I haven't had enough time with it to say much about it.
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Mar 7, 2015 14:26
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Dave Concepcion posted:Buick 3800 V6 I'll go with this, but the series III. Specifically the ones in Pontiacs. I've love the supercharged 3800 since my brother bought a new GTP. I bought my own '04 GTP drat near 10 years ago. It may be a crude old pushrod beast but its legendary for its affinity for boost and its Jeep 4 liter level of unkillableness. Even if you don't like the (mostly) GM W-body that come wrapped around it you cannot deny its unmistakeable sound, its lovely, torquey superchargedness and the fact that if you have one its incredibly cheap to make it beastly.
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Mar 9, 2015 05:49
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LeeMajors posted:Such a polarizing engine. Either 'tank' or 'junk.' So, it's just like an M4 Sherman. They made a million of them, too.
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Mar 9, 2015 13:27
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Raluek posted:Limited (and expensive) aftermarket, small displacement, only found in a couple cars? I guess it revs alright, but for the price it would cost to build a reasonably powerful one, you can build a SBC to rev just as high. the thing with the 1UZ is you DONT need to build it to make it a reasonably powerful engine- you literally stick a stand alone ECU on it and throw boost at it- Factory 6 bolt mains and a seriously overbuilt bottom end with the quad valve top and they will handle boost without flinching up to 10-14 psi, after that you need to look at rods and pistons but its literally take stock engine, stick haltec on it, throw boost, achieve 400+ HP with minimal effort.
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Mar 9, 2015 14:19
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Audi 2.3l 3B Turbo 20v To be fair, I also love the 1.9l ALH Turbodiesel
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Mar 9, 2015 16:32
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:4 pages and no 1UZ-FE? For shame! too bad about that starter motor, though. If I had one and it poo poo the bed I think I'd spend my ten hours swapping to a manual and just park on hills forever instead of replacing the starter.
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Mar 9, 2015 17:54
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Ferremit posted:the thing with the 1UZ is you DONT need to build it to make it a reasonably powerful engine- you literally stick a stand alone ECU on it and throw boost at it- Factory 6 bolt mains and a seriously overbuilt bottom end with the quad valve top and they will handle boost without flinching up to 10-14 psi, after that you need to look at rods and pistons but its literally take stock engine, stick haltec on it, throw boost, achieve 400+ HP with minimal effort. Well, but LS motors also are 6-bolt mains. And are way cheaper. And will break 400HP with a cam, headers, and a tune. Can even use the stock ECU. The only thing your silly furren motor has is more valves, but the better heads for the LS motors (e.g. LS3 heads) flow pretty drat good for what they are.
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Mar 9, 2015 18:34
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Raluek posted:Well, but LS motors also are 6-bolt mains. And are way cheaper. And will break 400HP with a cam, headers, and a tune. Can even use the stock ECU. The only thing your silly furren motor has is more valves, but the better heads for the LS motors (e.g. LS3 heads) flow pretty drat good for what they are. 
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Mar 9, 2015 19:06
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Raluek posted:Well, but LS motors [...] are way cheaper. No. No they are not. You can get complete longblock 1UZ engines for sub $400 if you look around. You cannot in any way, shape, or form get a longblock LS(x) for anywhere near as cheap. This link is to a nationwide search of 1UZFE engines, here is the bottom end of the price range (around $250 for a complete running long block, though $400 is a better price range for getting a sub 100k mileage motor): http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/sea...ey=&userPage=22 e: scrolling down a bit, there's a couple on there with two-year warranties for as little as $215. For a complete, warrantied, running DOHC all-aluminium 6 bolt main, forged internals V8. Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Mar 10, 2015 |
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Mar 10, 2015 00:35
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HotCanadianChick posted:No. No they are not. You can get complete longblock 1UZ engines for sub $400 if you look around. You cannot in any way, shape, or form get a longblock LS(x) for anywhere near as cheap. If you're considering the aluminum block motors only (i.e. the ones actually designated "LS") then I suppose you are right. I was referring to the design in general, i.e. the LM/LY/LQ engines. My LM7 was $450, and it only had 80k miles on it. I'm sure you can get one for half that price now, in some places. Plus, that was what I paid for a complete motor, not just a longblock. Despite being an iron block, according to some quick googling it looks like the 1UZ weighs about as much as an iron block "LS" (LM7 in this example). Although I admit they're cheaper than I thought they'd be, since I don't see *400 cars on the road too often.
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Mar 10, 2015 01:22
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HotCanadianChick posted:No. No they are not. You can get complete longblock 1UZ engines for sub $400 if you look around. You cannot in any way, shape, or form get a longblock LS(x) for anywhere near as cheap. And you are wrong because I can get any V8 I drat well want at the local picknpull for $200 longblock, $300 complete with all accessories, wiring, and ECU. Even when they don't have a sale going, then it is more like 180 (longblock) or 275 (complete.) I will take the vortec, because they fit every GM trans ever, are widely available, parts are everywhere, and anyone can tune them. There are a dozen vortecs in my local yard for every toyota V8.
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Mar 10, 2015 01:53
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I'm going to quote Raluek's post again, maybe one of you can point out where he was talking about Vortecs and LT series motors.Raluek posted:Well, but LS motors also are 6-bolt mains. And are way cheaper. And will break 400HP with a cam, headers, and a tune. Can even use the stock ECU. The only thing your silly furren motor has is more valves, but the better heads for the LS motors (e.g. LS3 heads) flow pretty drat good for what they are. Because he was specifically talking 'bout aluminium block LS series engines. Neither one of us was talking about dime-a-dozen truck motors. I love me some LS3 action (and can think of a billion cars that came equipped with more expensive, heavier, less powerful engines that would be drastically improved by an LS3 swap), but they're not the best bargain basement V8 you can get.
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Mar 10, 2015 02:32
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HotCanadianChick posted:I'm going to quote Raluek's post again, maybe one of you can point out where he was talking about Vortecs and LT series motors. All of what I said is true of the truck motors. The LS3 starts at 430HP, you don't need to do anything to it. People (myself included) tend to refer to generations III and IV of the small block Chevrolet V8 as "LS motors" even though some of them are called other things. Perhaps you could also play dumb and pretend I was talking about the 1970 "LS6" 454 big block, because obviously RPO codes are all that matter in this discussion, right?
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Mar 10, 2015 02:50
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Arguing from ignorance, but isn't the LS and LT blocks so closely related they might as well be the same things?
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Mar 10, 2015 02:54
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CommieGIR posted:Arguing from ignorance, but isn't the LS and LT blocks so closely related they might as well be the same things? No. The LTx Generation II engines are very similar to a classic SBC (Gen. I), but with the coolant going backwards, and the distributor under the water pump. Gen. III was very much a redesign, although they kept bearing journal diameters, bellhousing pattern, and bore spacing the same. Unless you meant the truck vs car "LS" motors (i.e. LM/LY/LQ etc vs LS), then yes, they're the same, except the truck version is made of iron instead of aluminum. There are some minor differences in the bosses for accessory mounting.
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Mar 10, 2015 03:07
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They're all solid, reliable* engines with a shitload of aftermarket, but everyone wants them for swaps so all the scrappers and junkyards want way too much for all but the crappiest of the truck motors around here. *exception for Optispark engines
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Mar 10, 2015 03:12
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The problem with the 1UZ is transmissions. It never came with a manual so you really have to Frankenstein it with custom adapter plates etc. Instead you can just go LS + T56 all day everyday.
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Mar 10, 2015 04:43
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kastein posted:And you are wrong because I can get any V8 I drat well want at the local picknpull for $200 longblock, $300 complete with all accessories, wiring, and ECU. Even when they don't have a sale going, then it is more like 180 (longblock) or 275 (complete.) This is definitely not true in Australia where the Toyota V8 is much cheaper and more common
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Mar 10, 2015 06:17
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dissss posted:This is definitely not true in Australia where the Toyota V8 is much cheaper and more common Well, yeah. Run what is the best bang for buck on your local market, for sure. I am surprised there was no manual in the tundra, didn't the V8 in it run the same bellhousing pattern? I mean, it would be a truck like transmission and you'd want to put a shift kit in it or something but at least it would be a starting point for a manual swap. Also: there was an aluminum truck V8, it is the L33 and is basically an LM7 with an alloy block. I forget what they came in.
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Mar 10, 2015 13:11
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kastein posted:Well, yeah. Run what is the best bang for buck on your local market, for sure. Trailblazers and SSRs if I remember right.
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Mar 10, 2015 13:55
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:4 pages and no 1UZ-FE? For shame! E: Loved the flat six in my SVX too though. Incredibly smooth running and fairly powerful for its time.
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Mar 10, 2015 17:13
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Too bad the transmission behind it was pretty much the opposite
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Mar 10, 2015 18:29
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slidebite posted:Too bad the transmission behind it was pretty much the opposite Yep. Mine started acting up around 50 or 60k. I totaled it not long after so never had to deal with it. Warped rotors and the tranny were the problems I had, but loved everything else about it.
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Mar 10, 2015 18:42
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If the transmissions were decent I'd probably have had one years ago. As I get old, fat and lazy I can't be bothered to buy a car knowing I'll 99% need to rip the transmission out. Wheel bearings/brakes I can live with OK, but not transmissions as a consumable.
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Mar 10, 2015 18:47
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Its not even them failing its just the logic behind them. It'll downshift at the drop of a hat but unless you keep your foot glued to the floor its just going to upshift back to fourth after 3 seconds. Only way you're really going to get the engine going is if you plan ahead and don't have anybody in front of you.
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Mar 10, 2015 18:53
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slidebite posted:If the transmissions were decent I'd probably have had one years ago.
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Mar 10, 2015 20:28
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As a type of engine: 12a rotary. They stink, sound like hell, and barely make power: 3 reasons I love them. As a specific single engine: the 2.5L rattle trap 4cyl in my Ranger because I've neglected it for the past 70,000 miles and it still runs like it's new.
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Mar 13, 2015 23:27
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