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Z3n posted:Ok, first of all, with suspension adjustments on forks: Never bottom them out hard. For compression/rebound adjusters, you can deform the needle, and for preload, you can strip them. Just don't torque them down. The KLR's ideal static sag was 3". I can't seem to google a number for the DRZ like I did for the KLR...
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Dec 3, 2010 21:50
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Im looking to wire some ground effect lights on my scooter. What are the potential drawbacks of wiring the lights directly to the battery terminals where a fused switch will be used to turn on and off the lights? This won't drain the battery right? The switch will be placed under the seat. This will let me turn on and off the accessory lights at the start and end of rides and only when i want to, opposed to taking off plastics and wiring it to piggy back off the running lights.
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Dec 4, 2010 23:38
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Given that you're very unlikely to forget to switch them off, that sounds just fine.
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Dec 4, 2010 23:48
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I hope this is the right spot for my question. I am going to be "inheriting" a 1994 Honda CB1000 from a friend of mine that owes me some money, and we worked out the deal where I get his bike. It runs, and he rides it everywhere. I have only been on a motorcycle twice in my life, and will be taking proper riding classes. What I want to know since this also was his first motorcycle, I am sure the proper maintenance was not done on it, what should I look at doing/replacing right away? Also, is there a FAQ type thread for new riders that I missed? I just want to read up over the winter on safe practices for motorcycles to be better prepared come this spring. Endless Mike posted:You should work on replacing it with something a lot smaller. Smaller physically, or engine size? i.e., not a good beginners bike? KeanuReevesGhost fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Dec 5, 2010 |
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Dec 5, 2010 05:28
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You should work on replacing it with something a lot smaller.
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Dec 5, 2010 06:52
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Smaller as in lighter, mostly. From what I've seen, the CB1000 is a pretty heavy bike. That said, I think you can still learn to ride on it, but you won't have the confidence that you would on a Ninja 250, 500, GS500, or even an SV650. Consider the learning curve steeper. If you do decide to inherit it, I would replace the tires, do an oil change, change the air filter, replace the battery, replace brake fluid, replace brake pads, and probably do the chain and sprockets. At least one bulb will probably need to be changed, too. There's some other slightly less important stuff that will need work at some point like fresh fork oil and new head bearings. Depending on how much your friend owes you, this could either be a good deal or a not so good deal. I would do it if the amount he owes you is under $1,500. Otherwise, a beat-up CB1000, while rare, is probably not worth more than that. Also, it has 98 horsepower and usually the recommended max for a beginner is around 60 horsepower. Since it's a heavy bike with a largely flat torque curve, it may be do-able, but I know a lot of people I wouldn't trust with that on tap. A lot of your riding questions will be answered through your rider training. Here's a guide on evaluating the condition of a used bike: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Dec 5, 2010 |
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Dec 5, 2010 07:16
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Smaller as in lighter, mostly. From what I've seen, the CB1000 is a pretty heavy bike. That said, I think you can still learn to ride on it, but you won't have the confidence that you would on a Ninja 250, 500, GS500, or even an SV650. Consider the learning curve steeper. He is into me for about 800.00, so that all looks okay. I don't plan on being some hot headed all star, I am looking at it more as a great commuter to and from school and work. Honestly, I don't see the bike getting above 45 mph except for occasional trips up north, but I dont see the girlfriend getting on the back of a motorcycle so we would probably take one of the cars for that. I have come to accept that the only way I will be able to recover what he owes me is the bike. I have always wanted a bike, and I am trying to figure out if I want to keep this one or get it, flip it, and buy another one. You mentioned they are rare, what worries me on that is while the value may be high, parts may be hard to find for it.
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Dec 5, 2010 07:24
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The CB1000 is a cool bike. If I were you, I'd "inherit" it, take my license course, ride it for a bit, and decide whether I like it or not, doing the maintenance it needs. If I like it, great, if not, well flip it for something I want more, no big loss. It'll be fine for what you describe, but almost any bike can do surface street commuting. Please don't put some kind of goofy windshield or fairing on it.
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Dec 5, 2010 07:28
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JackRabbitStorm posted:Smaller physically, or engine size? i.e., not a good beginners bike? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_CB1000 Nearly 100 HP for something that will weigh in the neighborhood of 600 pounds (with a full tank of gas, and a rider)... In Top Gear Speak, that's 334 Brake Horsepower Per Ton. (In the Wooooorld...) - That's (mostly) in the ballpark of a $100,000+ Corvette ZR1 - with two fewer wheels, no seatbelt, no ABS, etc. If you mash the gas a little too hard making a left turn in the ZR1 (or similar), you'll probably spin the car to a (mostly) uneventful stop, however, if you do the same thing on the CB1000, it will be...most eventful. Get it, and sell/trade it for something with 75 HP or less...under 50 is even better. I took the Motorcycle Safety Foundation rider's course to get my Motorcycle endorsement last spring, and I'm rockin' an '82 Yamaha SR250 (17 HP), and I traded away a KLR650 for a 2000 Suzuki DRZ400 (both ~35 HP). The DRZ is a RIOT to ride. 
Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 07:43 on Dec 5, 2010 |
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Dec 5, 2010 07:39
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:The CB1000 is a cool bike. If I were you, I'd "inherit" it, take my license course, ride it for a bit, and decide whether I like it or not, doing the maintenance it needs. If I like it, great, if not, well flip it for something I want more, no big loss. It'll be fine for what you describe, but almost any bike can do surface street commuting. Awesome, thanks for the input. And yeah, any bike will do that, but I figure I either get the bike, or I get nothing and I have always been meaning to get a bike, but never got around to it. I am getting it in January (if he doesn't back out, which is plausible since he's been oh so trustworthy in the past), and will probably have lots of questions again at that time. And again, thanks to the various people for your input! KeanuReevesGhost fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Dec 5, 2010 |
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Dec 5, 2010 07:41
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Just wanted to chime in and say that IMHO a cb1000 would be a helluva lot of bike for a first time rider. Having just finished my first 15 months of riding (gently caress winter) and having gone through four motorcycles because I'm an idiot and buy things I don't want, I think that a motorcycle of that weight/HP could get out of hand in a hot second when you least want it to. I started on a GZ250 and moved up to a triumph bonneville, and honestly I'm glad I didn't start on the bonneville despite its paltry 55 HP. I think I would have ruined myself having even that much power on tap.
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Dec 5, 2010 22:32
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Don't listen to these guys. Get it, go out on the highway and crank on it and get that fucker up to 120+. It's best when you get a new bike to just top the fucker out on the highway. Hold it wide open as long as possible and that'll make you a more reasonable rider in town. If you're dumb enough to do this, you don't need to own the bike and maybe the cops will play the role of the typical AI/CA anti-noob squad.
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Dec 5, 2010 22:40
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You'll get the full bike experience on any bike. That's what you need to know for now, the rest is risk mitigation. Some see 'more bike' and think that means a better experience, where it actually means a smaller margin of error. And you will error, believe me. That's just a fact of riding. The CB1000 is a far better choice of a first bike then a lot of other choices that's for sure, but it is still be a bit of a risk that most people here would be weary of taking. Take this information with you in your decision. Good luck!
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Dec 6, 2010 00:08
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KARMA! posted:You'll get the full bike experience on any bike. That's what you need to know for now, the rest is risk mitigation. Some see 'more bike' and think that means a better experience, where it actually means a smaller margin of error. And you will error, believe me. That's just a fact of riding. Couldn't have said it better. But you're wary of taking risks, not weary of them. Unless, of course, you're taking risks while tired. 
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Dec 6, 2010 00:41
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JP Money posted:If you're dumb enough to do this, you don't need to own the bike and maybe the cops will play the role of the typical AI/CA anti-noob squad. Haha, don't worry about me doing that, like I said in one of my previous posts, I dont see the bike getting above 45mph very often, and really am only looking at it because its free, gets great gas mileage and I have always wanted a bike. I'm not a hot head, or have the "need for speed". Especially on a public road and with out proper training. And I know a beginners class/sit in a class, ride a bit and get your license is not proper training for riding fast and stupid. I will take all of this in account, but most likely will keep the bike. The girlfriend isnt happy about me getting the bike, so selling it to buy another one might be to hard of a sell instead of "Hey, he owed me money, gave me the bike." If I sold it, she would want me to put the money in my "I want a down payment on a house" account, which is more fiscally responsible, but what the hell, only young once!
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Dec 6, 2010 00:55
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Z3n posted:Couldn't have said it better. But you're wary of taking risks, not weary of them. You try writing perfect coherent Dutch and we'll talk mister!!! 
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Dec 6, 2010 01:11
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the collective wisdom of the internet informs me that a fork brace is one of the five must-have accessories for a 2006 v-strom. I can accept this but I do not understand it. What does holding the forks a set distance apart do that would "drastically" improve steering/stability/braking/waits at red lights/sexual experiences with strangers?
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Dec 6, 2010 01:34
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Good Ship Theseus posted:Funny clutch noise question: I have an '83 Suzuki GS750ES that makes a kind of high-pitched hissing when the clutch is engaged, especially in gears 1 to 3 - although wind noise while riding in gears 4 and 5 may simply make it harder to hear. I've had the bike for two months, and it's consistently had a bit of trouble getting down into or out of 1st - ie. I sometimes unintentionally end up in neutral when shifting to and from 1st - although I'm a noob rider, so maybe it's just my inexperience. Reposting for the new page. Also, congrats on the "free" bike, JackRabbitStorm!
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Dec 6, 2010 02:04
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), so at first I though the sound was somehow related to water on the engine casing or something, but the sound consistently goes away when the clutch is in and comes back when the clutch is out. The bike still seems to accelerate normally.
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Good Ship Theseus posted:Reposting for the new page. Also, congrats on the "free" bike, JackRabbitStorm! Do you have a little bit of slack in the lever before it pulls the clutch cable? It could be slipping slightly due to being out of adjustment. Make sure you shift firmly and positively, people tend to be too hesitant with them when starting out, you need to shift firmly.
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Dec 6, 2010 07:43
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Good Ship Theseus, it could be worn although I suppose the throwout bearing would make more noise with the clutch pulled in. I think Z3n is right about it needing adjustment. Otherwise, new friction plates are quite cheap ($50-$60) and the clutch is very easy to access and work on.
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Dec 6, 2010 10:05
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ohwandernearer posted:the collective wisdom of the internet informs me that a fork brace is one of the five must-have accessories for a 2006 v-strom. I can accept this but I do not understand it. What does holding the forks a set distance apart do that would "drastically" improve steering/stability/braking/waits at red lights/sexual experiences with strangers? It helps ensure that forces that are supposed to be taken by the suspension are taken by the suspension, rather than by the forks flexing.
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Dec 6, 2010 11:27
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ohwandernearer posted:the collective wisdom of the internet informs me that a fork brace is one of the five must-have accessories for a 2006 v-strom. I can accept this but I do not understand it. What does holding the forks a set distance apart do that would "drastically" improve steering/stability/braking/waits at red lights/sexual experiences with strangers? Like 2CC says, it's to reduce slider flex (i.e. bowing) and torsion between the yokes and the axle. Whether this is aimed at preventing stiction (more likely) or improving steering (maybe less likely?) consistency is probably a question for a v-strom owner to answer.
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Dec 6, 2010 12:11
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ohwandernearer posted:the collective wisdom of the internet informs me that a fork brace is one of the five must-have accessories for a 2006 v-strom. I can accept this but I do not understand it. What does holding the forks a set distance apart do that would "drastically" improve steering/stability/braking/waits at red lights/sexual experiences with strangers? It's less that they're being held a set distance apart, and more that you're holding them (more) firmly at 3 points, instead of two (Triple trees and axle), meaning that the flexing you get is less, particularly in twisting left and right. One of the accounts I read was about the V65 Magna, where the aluminum fork brace broke along a cast line which led to a tanklapper crash, because the wheel was able to flex the forks back and forth enough - even though the triple trees weren't moving that much. It's like holding drinking straws at the top and the bottom, and twisting. If you introduce a brace halfway along the straws, the amount you can twist is much less.
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Dec 6, 2010 18:50
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JackRabbitStorm posted:Haha, don't worry about me doing that, like I said in one of my previous posts, I dont see the bike getting above 45mph very often, and really am only looking at it because its free, gets great gas mileage and I have always wanted a bike. I'm not a hot head, or have the "need for speed". Especially on a public road and with out proper training. And I know a beginners class/sit in a class, ride a bit and get your license is not proper training for riding fast and stupid. What people are trying to tell you, that I'm not sure you're getting is that it's not about how you intend to ride it, it's how the bike will respond to your newbie mistakes. The 1000 will be a lot less forgiving of accidentally giving it too much throttle, for example. Sure, you didn't mean to blip it and catapult into the side of the minivan, but it still happened. As people have said though, a powerful bike is not a death sentence. Be very careful and remember that the thing will respond faster than you will. Another option is to buy a cheap beater starter bike, learn on that for a couple months and then sell it for what you paid for it.
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Dec 6, 2010 21:55
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Z3n posted:Do you have a little bit of slack in the lever before it pulls the clutch cable? It could be slipping slightly due to being out of adjustment. There is a bit of slack on the lever before it pulls on the cable. I don't know how to tell if it's enough slack, though... pull the back end of the bike up and stick it in 1st with the clutch in and see if the wheel spins? (This could be a challenge since my bike had the center stand removed to make room for after-market exhaust by a previous owner.) Edit: I'm trying to get in the habit of shifting firmly even when I'm relaxed - it's easy to shift firmly when I'm feeling a bit of adrenalin... Ola posted:Good Ship Theseus, it could be worn although I suppose the throwout bearing would make more noise with the clutch pulled in. I think Z3n is right about it needing adjustment. Otherwise, new friction plates are quite cheap ($50-$60) and the clutch is very easy to access and work on. This is good to hear - I don't have much experience working on motorbikes, but I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and willing to attempt repairs with a bit of background prep. If the friction plates are going, would the clutch start to slip more over time? Would this manifest as less acceleration/power than usual? Good Ship Theseus fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Dec 7, 2010 |
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Dec 7, 2010 07:47
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You can probably adjust the shift lever so it's closer to your boot, just make sure not to go too far or you'll be jamming on it too hard when you do shift firmly. You're looking at moving it like a fraction of an inch, not by a full inch or more. It may help make shifting more comfortable in your day to day and relieve the feeling like you have to be balls out to shift correctly.
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Dec 7, 2010 09:00
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Yeah. If the clutch is worn, it will slip just like if you pull the lever in a little. If you have archives you can look at some pics from me working on my 750ES: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3279096
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Dec 7, 2010 09:08
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Good Ship Theseus posted:There is a bit of slack on the lever before it pulls on the cable. I don't know how to tell if it's enough slack, though... pull the back end of the bike up and stick it in 1st with the clutch in and see if the wheel spins? (This could be a challenge since my bike had the center stand removed to make room for after-market exhaust by a previous owner.) quote:If the friction plates are going, would the clutch start to slip more over time? Would this manifest as less acceleration/power than usual? It'll manifest as the engine revving higher, but the bike not accelerating as quickly. Generally if it starts to slip, it'll keep slipping till you cut the throttle. It's usually worth it to replace the clutch springs at the same time as the plates. My old KZ had brand new plates when I bought it, but was still slipping due to the 25 year old springs.
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Dec 7, 2010 15:16
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chryst posted:No, because the wheel will spin with the clutch in regardless, due to the oil dragging between the plates. My '80 CB750F has never done this and it has a year old clutch.
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Dec 8, 2010 04:18
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Rontalvos posted:My '80 CB750F has never done this and it has a year old clutch. Most bikes will. You probably just have a sticking rear brake or knackered rear wheel bearings.
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Dec 8, 2010 10:35
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Saga posted:Most bikes will. You probably just have a sticking rear brake or knackered rear wheel bearings. I've yet to see a wet clutch bike that didn't http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHb15Fn9yD4
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Dec 8, 2010 10:41
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So what are the other diagnostics for checking if my clutch cable is properly adjusted?
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Dec 8, 2010 22:31
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Speaking of my '80 CB750F, I put a new battery in during March or April of this year, and it's already corroding on the negative terminal. In september or october I noticed a small ring of tiny white crystals and figured I'd get around to cleaning it later. It's now later and when I went to remove the battery the negative terminal was so badly corroded that I stripped out the philips screw and then had to use a socket wrench to unhook the battery. It's a flooded lead acid, one of the cheap ones you buy at Tractor Supply or WalMart for $40 and fill with acid yourself. What causes corrosion on just the negative terminal and why is my 9 month old battery exploding with corrosion?
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Dec 9, 2010 11:43
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I'm going to be putting one of my bikes inside for maintenance, since I don't have a garage and don't want to work out in 20 degrees. I'm aware of the whole winterizing procedure, but why is filling a bike with new oil better than just draining the oil (and fluids altogether) and keeping it empty? Obviously it is going to be a decent temp in the house, so condensation shouldn't be a problem. I'm asking cause I don't want to end up with oil on the carpet.
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Dec 9, 2010 21:18
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Good Ship Theseus posted:So what are the other diagnostics for checking if my clutch cable is properly adjusted? If you have too much slack, it'll be hard to shift (mainly 2->3), and changing gears will feel like a much harder *clunk* (especially N->1). If you have too little slack, it'll disengage at the very beginning of the lever travel, and probably start slipping under heavy acceleration. This will be pretty similar to having worn clutch plates. I think that's all been covered already though, and that's pretty much it.
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Dec 9, 2010 22:12
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Rontalvos posted:What causes corrosion on just the negative terminal and why is my 9 month old battery exploding with corrosion? Gnaghi posted:I'm going to be putting one of my bikes inside for maintenance, since I don't have a garage and don't want to work out in 20 degrees. I'm aware of the whole winterizing procedure, but why is filling a bike with new oil better than just draining the oil (and fluids altogether) and keeping it empty? Obviously it is going to be a decent temp in the house, so condensation shouldn't be a problem. I'm asking cause I don't want to end up with oil on the carpet.
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Dec 9, 2010 22:33
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G'day A Getz wrote off my Suzuki Sierra and i decided to get a bike with the insurance payout. So i now have a '99 Kawasaki ER5 and am learning to ride. ive had about 2 lessons with the gf (whos rode a 250 Virago forever) and im getting the hang of not hitting kerbs, gearing, cornering and such. I've been looking at gear online and am wondering what "closeout"s are, theres some quality gear on US sites for cheap. What sort of quality is US gear compared to australian made or japanese made, why is this stuff so cheap? Are there any known issues with the ER5 that i should be aware of? I'm in no terrible rush to get on the road and into traffic, im happy to learn at a comfortable pace. 
Negative Entropy fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Dec 11, 2010 |
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Dec 10, 2010 21:54
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Kommando posted:G'day Closeouts are just sales. It's stuff that was probably bought in large amounts so the seller could sell it cheap and fast. There's no problem with it. As far as brands of US gear / whatever, you should ask specifically about a brand / piece of gear as there's too much out there to give a broad yes or no to anything. Don't forget the large shipping cost that it's going to take to ship stuff to AUS.
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Dec 10, 2010 22:31
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Kommando posted:I'm in no terrible rush to get on the road and into traffic, im happy to learn at a comfortable pace. You don't have the Motorcycle Safety Foundation courses in Oz. The closest comparable thing I could find was Stay Upright. Sooner is better than later. Kommando posted:I've been looking at gear online and am wondering what "closeout"s are, theres some quality gear on US sites for cheap. The closeouts are the stock that the manufacturer has left over after they've changed it, or ended production - or perhaps they made them in a color that doesn't sell well, and so they've got a lot of them that aren't moving. The Manufacturer will sell those items at a discount to a store that then passes on the discount to the end customer. They're generally the same quality that you'd get from paying more, but you might not be as stylish as you'd otherwise hope... (I was going to include a picture of me in my $50 jacket and $50 helmet, but picasa is being a bastard...)
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Dec 10, 2010 22:53
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Kommando posted:So i now have a '99 Kawasaki ER5 and am learning to ride. ive had about 2 lessons with the gf (whos rode a 250 Virago forever) and im getting the hang of not hitting kerbs, gearing, cornering and such. No serious issues with ER-5s. They're a staple of training schools over here for training new riders old enough not to be subject to any capacity limitations. They're basically cheap, simple and built down to a price, which isn't to say they're bad bikes - it's a capable commuter and very fuel efficient. The engine is based on something Kawasaki have had kicking around since the 80s and as long as you do oil and filter changes at the specified intervals (and probably even if you don't) you shouldn't have any issues. The painted mild-steel downpipes can rust out if the bike's seen a few winters and salted roads, but depending on where you are in Oz, I'm guessing it's not likely to be an issue for you. Ebay can be an excellent place to pick up used leathers. You can get some real bargains - I have a custom suit that would have cost US$1000+ new that I got for US$100, barely used. If you're a bloke and a fairly average height/weight, you can do very well going that route. I'd make sure you have a decent helmet. Check out the SHARP ratings on http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/ UK govt scheme of course, but most of the major manufacturers' products should be the same.
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Dec 11, 2010 15:27
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