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Huh, T-Rex stands are based out of Dallas, I wonder if they have any distributors down here. Not sure it'd be worth the overnight trip to go pick up a pair of t-rex stands though, but who knows. Thanks for the heads up, might have a line on some used pit bull stands if I'm lucky. edit: Woot, getting front and rear pit bull stands off CL for $200. Problem solved. I'm still broke though. Korwen fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Jun 17, 2011 |
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Jun 17, 2011 16:44
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So I recently found out my dad has a Suzuki GS850 in the garage that has been there since about 1986 sitting. He wrecked it when he wiped out on some pebbles and flipped over a guard rail. He also tells me that he had the cylinder bolts(?) bent, but still rode it home like that, so I guess it didn't kill it too much. I'm thinking of using it as a wrenching project to see if I can get it running again, and wanted to find some resources. So... 1.) What would be a good owners group/forum to be in for a 1981 Suzuki GS850 restoration to running? 2.) What's the best place to find parts for a vintage bike like the above listed?
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Jun 17, 2011 19:34
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Dalrain posted:Suzuki GS850 http://www.thegsresources.com/ Z1Enterprises.com Oldbikebarn.com crc2onlinecatalog.com (aka Cycle Re-Cycle)
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Jun 17, 2011 19:37
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Raven457 posted:http://www.thegsresources.com/ Thanks for the quick response(s)! I'm signed up on the forum there now. Part of me is afraid to find out how much parts will costs to get this thing "right" again...
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Jun 17, 2011 19:54
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Dalrain posted:Thanks for the quick response(s)! I'm signed up on the forum there now. Part of me is afraid to find out how much parts will costs to get this thing "right" again... Probably not too bad, if it was ridden home. Those bikes were incredibly popular courier bikes, and there's a lot of info out there on them. Should be a fun project, start a thread here when you get started on it and I can page one of the GS experts who can guide your way 
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Jun 17, 2011 20:06
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Dalrain posted:Thanks for the quick response(s)! I'm signed up on the forum there now. Part of me is afraid to find out how much parts will costs to get this thing "right" again... It shouldn't be too bad, really. Like Z3n said, they were (and still are) very popular bikes. I started on a GS850 and had to do some work to put it on the road, and I thought parts were fairly reasonably priced and easy to obtain.
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Jun 17, 2011 20:29
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Whats is the best way to tell what side is face up or down on fork seals? Going to do my seals one more time this sunday with OEM honda seals. I hope these dont leak right off the bat like the others.
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Jun 17, 2011 21:02
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Z3n posted:Probably not too bad, if it was ridden home. Those bikes were incredibly popular courier bikes, and there's a lot of info out there on them. Should be a fun project, start a thread here when you get started on it and I can page one of the GS experts who can guide your way Sure, I'll post up as soon as I get started on it. It's still located at my childhood home, so I need to find the time to travel interstate for a bit. Thanks for the encouragement, I feel like I can probably pull this off now. Actually, it's very exciting just to think about.
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Jun 17, 2011 21:14
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Z3n posted:Buy the most comfortable one, or buy the one that makes you drool the most when you look at it. No sense in halfassing it on a supersport. I really like the swoopy looking R6es. Please tell me they don't suck.
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Jun 17, 2011 21:44
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frozenphil posted:I really like the swoopy looking R6es. Please tell me they don't suck. They're just fine as far as bikes go. I've got one in the garage at the moment, great for just about everything, and relatively comfortable as well, maintenance free, and a jolly bit of fun. Edit: Oh, thought you meant the R6s (vs R6), which is just the 200-something through 2005 R6. R6 is same deal, but a bit more aggressive. Pretty though, great engines, great chassis. Very fun.
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Jun 17, 2011 22:22
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frozenphil posted:I really like the swoopy looking R6es. Please tell me they don't suck. Suck is putting it lightly.  They are frankly amazing motorcycles. The sound of a 600 spinning up to a staggering 165000 RPM is unbelievable, and they have a chassis and suspension setup that is frankly phenomenal. If the rider were in the right weight ranges for the suspension, everything about the bike is ready to roll off the showroom floor and go win races. The downsides are that the bike was generally built to roll out the door and win races. The seating position is very aggressive, the engine is built for top end, the suspension is designed for racetracks, not poorly paved backroads, and you'll be able to go way faster than safe or intelligent on a twisty road without even trying. The 08+ had an engine re-design with an eye towards boosting midrange, which was really, really needed. It also had some minor suspension adjustments that calmed the chassis down a bit (slightly longer forks). For track/street use, I'd really want the 08+. For track only use, the best deal on an 06+ is what I'd be looking for. Edit: Wait, which "Swoopy looking ones"? They all look plastic thrown through an oven.
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Jun 17, 2011 22:43
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  Came home from work Monday night, and noticed that the ol' bike was bumped up against the curb and the wheel not pointing straight ahead like I left it on Sunday when I put it away and put the cover on. Didn't really have time to investigate much more than seeing things were not where they were supposed to be. Had a closer look Tuesday night, and saw a foot and a bit of scraping on the road, lined up exactly where the legs of the centre stand are, so I immediately figured it was pushed back to the sidewalk at somepoint, but most likely was NOT overturned. I just moved it away from the curb and re-parked it. This morning I wasn't thinking and wanted to ride to work, so I got all ready and out the door, got it off the centre stand and looked down at the front wheel when I heard something rubbing. Then I noticed it wasn't exactly pointing dead ahead like it used to I figure someone backed into it some point on Monday while I was at work. Do I need to replace the whole front end?
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Jun 18, 2011 01:13
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Likely you just need to loosen the triples, straighten the wheel out, and you're good to go. Check that there's not a lot of stiction in the forks and that they still move smoothly, but chances are you're ok. Hit and run assholes
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Jun 18, 2011 01:15
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That is one shiny fender.. Glad that didn't get marred or anything.
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Jun 18, 2011 01:30
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Nah just turn it full to the right and then kick the front of the tire real hard.
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Jun 18, 2011 02:09
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Dunno, Rev, I usually reserve percussive maintenance for the mountain bike.
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Jun 18, 2011 02:56
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Z3n posted:Edit: Wait, which "Swoopy looking ones"? They all look plastic thrown through an oven. Sounds perfect if we're talking about the same body style. 
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Jun 18, 2011 07:10
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Yup, that's the one.
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Jun 18, 2011 17:18
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That happens to be my favorite 600SS, and if I were to buy one I'd have to hold out for the anniversary colors  Sooooo Hot
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Jun 18, 2011 20:12
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Does anyone know where the feul cock is located on a Keen Badboy? And do you know where i can find spare parts this bike in England?
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Jun 18, 2011 21:16
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:That happens to be my favorite 600SS, and if I were to buy one I'd have to hold out for the anniversary colors   Still haven't gotten around to buying the stripe decals though. But yeah, everything Z3n says is true. With any 600SS you're going to have to wring its neck to get power. With the R6, you're going to have to wring its neck and kick it in the balls to get power. Some people hate this; personally I love it. I'm with the crowd that thinks a 600SS makes enough power to ride around town with. No, it won't make maximum power, but it will make enough power. The R6 comes stock with rearsets that are 1/8" higher than any other manufacturer. The powerband (on the 06-07's at least) is between about 11,000rpm and 13,000rpm. There's a nice surge of power around 9,000 as well, but maximum power comes in that small 2,000rpm range. The brakes are loving INSANE. With stainless lines, on the stock R6 brakes, maximum braking is about an inch and a half of lever movement. Two finger braking is almost overkill. Just to give you an idea of how the bike acts. If you EVER plan on going to a race track, the R6 is going to blow your mind and you're going to fall in love with it. If you don't plan on going to track, it's still a great bike, but it is an aggressive bike. I personally don't mind daily driving mine. Then again, most people call me insane because my bike is setup for the track (rearsets, clipons, thin grips) and I literally ride it on the street every day. -Inu- fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jun 19, 2011 |
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Jun 19, 2011 03:41
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Today, I test-rode a 2003 R6. The guy was refusing to budge from his high price despite a slightly weeping valve head gasket and an imminent valve adjustment. So I had to pass on that one. During that test-ride around a parking lot and on the street, I fell in love with the machine. Definitely different from CBR's and gixxahs. A difference that I like very much. Now I need to ride a '06+.
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Jun 19, 2011 05:54
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R6's-are-awesome stories and that gap video link coincide pretty well with Yamaha finally upgrading their website and adding a configurator. That red is sooo nice, why'd they have to ruin it with tacky skulls?
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Jun 19, 2011 13:49
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So my brother picked up this 70's era enduro for $100. All it needed to get running was new piston rings.  I rode it yesterday and it revved just fine in neutral, but drat the thing bogs like crazy when in gear. I feel like I had to rev it really high to just get it to move. Once rolling it was fine. I don't know anything about two strokes. Is this normal?
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Jun 19, 2011 15:27
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Crayvex posted:I feel like I had to rev it really high to just get it to move. Once rolling it was fine. I don't know anything about two strokes. Is this normal? Yes and no. It's probablly jetted poorly, and two strokes are very sensitive to that. This being said, a small displacement two stroke like that will need lots of throttle to get going. Traditionally you beat the poo poo out of clutches on bikes like this.
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Jun 19, 2011 15:47
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Crayvex posted:So my brother picked up this 70's era enduro for $100. All it needed to get running was new piston rings. TS185? No, it shouldn't. It should have a wide power band. But I'm not sure if you're saying it rode fine but slipping the clutch was giving you trouble, or that it has a power band like an old 125 GP bike. Either way, it's a 70s TS - it looks very tidy it has to be said, but has probably had 12,000 POs. Thus there are any number of ways it could be hosed up / have been hosed up. If it rides well once you get it moving, I'd just keep going and not worry about it. The bang-for-buck you get with a working twinshock, at least for dualsport trail riding purposes, is phenomenal. Why ruin it? That said, I suppose if it's a power delivery thing, relatively easy first steps are to check the jetting is correct, check the reeds while you have the carb out, and decoke the exhaust (caustic soda, bonfire or blowtorch up to you). I'm assuming here that whatever was done to the top end was done correctly. e: check the sprocket sizes are correct - has someone used a higher gearing in an attempt to give it more road speed / lower revs at road speeds? ee: oh and obviously does it have an air filter and is it the correct one - my TY came with something that looked like 5 hairnets rolled into a ball and was not in any way associated with Yamaha! Saga fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Jun 19, 2011 |
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Jun 19, 2011 15:47
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Thanks for the tips everyone. We did raise the main jet needle a bit which increased the throttle response. So I'm sure someone messed with it at some point. The story is that the bike has sat since 1987. The drat 6 volt battery looks 10+ years old too. Next time I ride it, I'll make a video. Might be a couple of weeks as my bro wants to keep messing around with it. I'm kinda glad he's interested in motorcycles again. He crashed a CB360 a few years ago when he was riding like a dong and ended up with some serious road rash because riding in a wife beater while sitting on your leather jacket is smart!
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Jun 19, 2011 16:52
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I've been riding my 1996 Suzuki GS125 (provisional UK license) since February. My chain and sprockets are pretty worn (teeth on the back sprocket are kind of sharp and sawtoothed), so I'm going to replace it ASAP. Question 1: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUZUKI-GS125-E-X-DID-CHAIN-SPROCKET-KIT-OE-/260799587704?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cb8dde578 This look ok? Or should I call the Suzuki dealer nearish me who have been less than helpful so far :-/ They mostly seem interested in selling and servicing sport bikes. Question 1.5: Is there any reason to change the gearing (43/14 right now)? I don't really think I can do any better (it only makes so much power, anyway). I've gotten it up to 70 on the dual carriageway (downhill and downwind), but it won't do more than 55 up even a slight hill. Question 2: I hate all you in the sumo thread  I'll post in it when I get to the end. Want a DRZ 400 so bad right now, but I haven't passed my test, yet. Anyone ridden one with a 33.whatever horsepower restrictor kit? I don't really think I'll go with the DAS.... Dorset roads are surely perfect for a sumo. Will probably wait and buy one cheap in the winter, though. (I'm busy saving, however).
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Jun 19, 2011 19:46
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CA, what's wrong with my bike? I just bought an '07 Nina 250 with only 330 miles on it. The guy I bought it from rode it periodically to keep everything going, but mainly commuted on his other bike so this one sat for a while. Whenever I twist the throttle and rev it, it revs up fine but does not immediately come back down (and sometimes will even gain some engine speed without touching the throttle). I took this video just the other night- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hSXnps2VLY After the video was taken, I had it idling in neutral and it revved itself up to around 4000 without having a hand on the bars, so I just cut it off and parked it until I can work on it. My internet detective skills say it's a throttle return cable that needs to be lubed, but someone also mentioned I may need to clean the carbs. Anyone have any ideas?
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Jun 20, 2011 03:21
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Hanging idle can be a lean condition and would point towards not getting enough fuel, which points toward the carb jets/needle. It could also be an air leak somewhere around the carb boots or exhaust gasket.
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Jun 20, 2011 04:08
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I love you, CA. A sale of my K5 SV650 with mods fell through today with a friend. So I'm keeping the bike for the present. I installed new ProGrip grips on my SV today. While installing them on the clip-ons, I encountered difficulty in putting the throttle-side grip on. I twisted and pushed, and there was a little "pop." Now I can twiddle the throttle tube back and forth significantly without revving the engine. This has caused consternation during riding. I can't rest my hand on the throttle tube without activating that "gap," and then I have to pull the distance before the engine starts revving. It's annoying. What happened here? I have a R6 throttle tube mod. Did I break the throttle tube?
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Jun 20, 2011 04:35
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FakeUsername posted:CA, what's wrong with my bike? I'd check the throttle cables, and ideally, replace both.
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Jun 20, 2011 05:00
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I have an annoyance with my Bandit 600. In a certain RPM range, approximately from 3500-5000rpm, I get this really persistent buzz in my left ear. It makes no difference whether I use earplugs or not, the buzz is 'inside' my ear and only in my left ear. What could be causing it? Vibration? Some sort of resonance? It's a real buzzkill
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Jun 20, 2011 09:20
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FakeUsername posted:CA, what's wrong with my bike? I'd second cables are more likely than anything. Possibly lean? I've seen wonky idles and RPM not wanting to drop back down from it, but that's way more than anything I've ever encountered.
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Jun 20, 2011 09:35
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Assuming that's the correct model of GS, I don't see any problem with the ebay auction. Wemoto.com are pretty good for older bikes. I wouldn't bother changing the gearing. It's not going to do very much on a ~10hp 125. Definitely don't raise the gearing in any case. It's not going to pull a higher gearing and will just cause arse-ache any time other than flat out down an A road. You could lower it, especially if it doesn't get anywhere near redline in top - although if you're doing anything like 70mph I suspect it does. Use a gearing calculator and make sure you aren't about to lop 10mph off your top speed. That will just make car drivers even more aggressive about driving up your chuff than they already will be when they see an L plate and a 125. polystyrus posted:I've been riding my 1996 Suzuki GS125 (provisional UK license) since February.
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Jun 20, 2011 09:40
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Saga posted:Assuming that's the correct model of GS, I don't see any problem with the ebay auction. Cool, thanks for the reply. I did some quick calculations and decided not to bother changing the gearing. I don't *think* I'm near redline (tach cable broke several hundred miles ago), but I don't really think I'm going to gain much, anyway. I went ahead and ordered the chain/sprocket set. Also a tach cable. edit: Although I'm seriously tempted to just order an extra -1 or -2 front sprocket from wemoto. You know, just to try :-) edit2: Yeah, I ordered the "spare" sprocket. Maybe it will make 5th less poo poo. dick traceroute fucked around with this message at 10:26 on Jun 20, 2011 |
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Jun 20, 2011 09:52
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polystyrus posted:Cool, thanks for the reply. I did some quick calculations and decided not to bother changing the gearing. I don't *think* I'm near redline (tach cable broke several hundred miles ago), but I don't really think I'm going to gain much, anyway. Start with 1 smaller obviously...and don't forget to use a new lockwasher/tab washer on the front sprocket if the GS calls for it. Check your Haynes/Clymer/Suzuki workshop manual, don't assume it shouldn't have one just because you don't see one. If it doesn't have a locking mechanism, you will want to make sure loctite is used to secure it. Use the correct torque obviously on the front and rear sprocket retaining nuts. If the front sprocket comes off while you're moving, it is a bad thing.
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Jun 20, 2011 11:13
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Saga posted:Start with 1 smaller obviously...and don't forget to use a new lockwasher/tab washer on the front sprocket if the GS calls for it. Check your Haynes/Clymer/Suzuki workshop manual, don't assume it shouldn't have one just because you don't see one. Yeah, I went with -1. I have the Haynes manual (admittedly it only covers models up to '93), and I will excersise caution. Because sprockets coming off while moving sounds like a Very Bad Thing.
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Jun 20, 2011 11:38
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polystyrus posted:Yeah, I went with -1. I have the Haynes manual (admittedly it only covers models up to '93), and I will excersise caution. Because sprockets coming off while moving sounds like a Very Bad Thing. Well you normally see the bolts start to fall off a rear sprocket, but with the front you don't, as it's usually covered. If it does work off, it's likely to lock the chain solid using the frame as a stop, and/or smash a hole in the cases.
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Jun 20, 2011 12:15
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KozmoNaut posted:I have an annoyance with my Bandit 600. In a certain RPM range, approximately from 3500-5000rpm, I get this really persistent buzz in my left ear. It makes no difference whether I use earplugs or not, the buzz is 'inside' my ear and only in my left ear. Tried moving your butt? Standing up? Different helmet? Other rider? Etc.
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Jun 20, 2011 12:35
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