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Bondematt posted:Super simple if you know how to remove your tank. THANK YOU  you deserve a cookie. so this is a fix the next possible day thing eh? hmm. New page. need pics Saw this weird megascooter today hanging out beside a slick looking Honda    
Negative Entropy fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Jul 3, 2011 |
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Jul 3, 2011 08:49
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Kommando posted:THANK YOU You're welcome, I accept all cookies.  Yeah, unless you keep stopping and refilling coolant in the expansion tank it (can)will cause problems on a days ride.
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Jul 3, 2011 08:56
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Why the hell is there a hole in the side of your cases?
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Jul 3, 2011 09:19
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Why the hell is there a hole in the side of your cases? Superior Japanese Engineering! It's a drain hole for the spark plug well. Without it your bike would have a hard time running when it rains. Pretty much it's from an antiquated design as this engine was designed in the early-mid 80's(based off a 4 cylinder design from the 70's I hear) and only slight modifications until the stopped making the Ninja 500/Vulcan 500 in 2009. The spark plug is in the very center of the top of the cylinder, so it's the lowest point for water to collect if it gets on the valve cover. These engines must have cost Kawa just slightly above material costs by the end. Really I'm not sure why they stopped making them, they could have redesigned it around the same engine again and made bank. They are pretty reliable for being a cheap rear end beginners bike with no bells or whistles. It goes vroom and beats out anything you are likely to encounter in traffic. They also threw this engine on anything they wanted to be a midsize bike, usually with different cams. The Vulcan 500, EX-500 gen 1 and 2(Ninja 500), ER5N, and a KLE500 enduro as well. It's like the k-series of bikes. Also there is no rev limiter, it just runs out of map well above redline. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 10:04 on Jul 3, 2011 |
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Jul 3, 2011 09:57
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Sigh. Yamaha. My stock cam chain tensioner has been making apparent noise so I went ahead and ordered a new APE manual tensioner. Pulled the automatic one off last night and put a bead of black RTV where the old one sits (need to do this on the R6's or it will leak oil). Let it sit for 24 hours. Went to crank it just now and it was leaking small drops of oil out of the cam chain tensioner. Now when I go to crank the bike it fires for a split second and immediately dies. Right afterwards the fuel injection kicks in (..?). What the gently caress is the problem here? edit: think I got it figured out. pulled the error code and the bike didn't want to start because of oil pressure. redid my rtv and i'm going to let it sit again, hopefully will fix it. -Inu- fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jul 3, 2011 |
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Jul 3, 2011 20:20
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Bondematt, do you know what size o rings they are? are they a special item i have to get from a bike workshop or can i get them at a hardware store?
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Jul 3, 2011 23:10
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Kommando posted:Bondematt, do you know what size o rings they are? are they a special item i have to get from a bike workshop or can i get them at a hardware store? It's part 670 on this don't know the dimension other than 14mm. http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeI...diator%281_2%29 According to this http://www.ex-500.com/index.php?topic=32097.0 it's 10 mm ID x 15 mm OD so 2.5 mm Wide
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Jul 4, 2011 00:30
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I really don't know anything at all about carbs, and I was wondering what the cause of a few different issues I've run into in my time were. Once I started riding and forgot to turn the fuel petcock to the On position from Off, and the bike died before I could swap it to On. I pulled over, flicked it to on, tried starting, nothing happened. I tried starting it with a handful of throttle, nothing happened, ended up freaking out a bit and tried a combo of choke, no choke, throttle, no throttle, etc, and nothing really worked. I sat there for a minute wondering what the hell to do, tried it one more time with a handful of throttle and it started fine. The other time was I turned the choke off too early and it stalled, and then same as before, it wouldnt start with a mix of choke, throttle, no throttle, etc, I let it sit for 20-30 seconds and then it started fine. I've had no mechanical problems with the bike at all so far, I'm putting it down to human error. Is there a proper way to start a bike after you accidentally dry it out / it stalls while cold?
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Jul 4, 2011 11:40
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Don Music posted:I've had no mechanical problems with the bike at all so far, I'm putting it down to human error. Is there a proper way to start a bike after you accidentally dry it out / it stalls while cold?
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Jul 4, 2011 15:08
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Alright duders I need some jetting help. I constantly rejet my dirtbikes, but the changes I'm jetting for are rather drastic so I'll likely see if I can't pull from the collective internet knowledge. Here's the deal: It's my sporty project so it once started as a 1997 XL1200S Now it has ported XB12 heads, high compression pistons, aggressive top end cams, completely remapped ignition profile for 8500 revs a new 44 Kehein carb and intake. With the SCREAMIN' EAGLE stockish H pipe setup (which is pretty close to straight pipes) it ran great. I was pissed with how loud it was so I got myself a 2-2 high pipe setup. Just tossing the exhaust on the bike would no longer rev past 4000 under load. It could rev just sitting there in neutral. I have a dealer jet kit. My plan is since I caused a lot more back pressure, it richened up the mixture in theory maybe, so I want a smaller main and a fatter needle taper. Sound legit? shacked up with Brenda fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Jul 4, 2011 |
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Jul 4, 2011 15:38
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:Your petcock probably has a "prime" setting in addition to on/off. This is what'll fill the float bowls for that first start. Nah, no prime setting, only on/res/off.
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Jul 5, 2011 00:27
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Don Music posted:Nah, no prime setting, only on/res/off. If it's vacuum operated you'll have to crank, wait, crank, wait a couple cycles. Should take less than a minute. I do 5 second crank 10 wait, and it fires up on the second five usually.
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Jul 5, 2011 01:20
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Ok, changing the o-rings now. pics to follow. bugger, got the wrong size o rings. Ronayers is correct, 14x2.5mm, not 10x2.5mm Negative Entropy fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Jul 5, 2011 |
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Jul 5, 2011 02:06
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Well, I think I fixed the problem. I took the carbs off and blasted every metal surface with carb cleaner. I found this nice sand like stuff in the right float bowl and cleaned every place I could. After putting it back together, replacing the fuel lines and calibrating the idle screw; my bike idles and starts from cold with no problem. Long term results have yet to be seen, but this is a very positive development. What I think went wrong is as follows: The P.O. knew the tank was rusty; so he put in not only 1 fuel filter, but 2 on the primary and reserve outlets as well!. When I first got the bike, I de-rusted, recoated the tank and removed the fuel filters, but I didn't check the rest of the fuel system. What probably happened was some rust from the petcock found its way into the carbs and was preventing it from idling properly.
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Jul 5, 2011 04:29
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gently caress! What did i do? i replaced the o rings and now the airbox is full of fuel! all the hoses went back correctly i think.
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Jul 5, 2011 04:41
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Kommando posted:gently caress! What did i do?  Either the hoses are not correct or your float valves are locked open. If you put the fuel line on the carb vent(overfill?) nipple you might get this. I'd check that the fuel line is on the fuel rail, the lowest rail. The upper rail has a hose that goes to nowhere and can be removed for this pupose. http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php/Where_do_these_hoses_go%3F
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Jul 5, 2011 04:46
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Bondematt posted:
That doesnt look anything like what ive got on my bike. I wanted to put a fuel filter on the fuel line but got the vacuum line into the pri/reserve selector cock, oh well, derp but it shouldnt do anything wrong. i took it for a test ride and everything ran fine. tho it looked like the coolant leak was still present. So i've got some more vacuum line and fixed what i hosed, i have pics of it all. pictures for clarification  Derp, dont do this. has been fixed.  Where do all these hoses go? ====================== actually, could it be that instead of removing the tank i just hung it off the side of the bike with occy straps instead of disconnect the hoses and the tank was just draining into the carb and overflowing into the airbox? Negative Entropy fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Jul 5, 2011 |
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Jul 5, 2011 04:59
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Kommando posted:That doesnt look anything like what ive got on my bike. I forgot you have the moon bike. If you didn't disconnect the hoses I would (leave them)put them back where you had them. The fuel tap should not be flowing fuel with the bike off and the tap set to Reserve or On. Assuming you didn't have it set on prime I would make sure your fuel tap is functioning properly. Sorry about the coolant leak, those little o-rings are about 90% of them.
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Jul 5, 2011 06:01
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OH! PRIME. NOT PRIMARY TANK. --------------- Yep, fuel issue was me hanging the tank off the side while the petcock was on. Coolant issue remains however holding the tank up and running the bike has shown there is a small leak of coolant from the Thermo || Radiator cap seal. might need a new gasket or some hylomar. either way, she has new o-rings and coolant now. and i spent 4 hours figuring out how the bike operates a little better. call it familiarisation. 
Negative Entropy fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jul 5, 2011 |
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Jul 5, 2011 06:22
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I got another friend into riding, he got his endorsement about a month ago and we picked up a Honda CX500 from Seattle on Saturday for $850. Thing runs like a champ and it has upgraded front brakes with a 4-piston Honda caliper, but it's been dropped a stops a few times, is brownish, and has weird handlebars so looks aren't its strength. To turn this into a question... anybody know how to get the seat off a '82 CX500? I am pretty stumped by this. Also, as far as handlebar goes, it is likely a 7/8" diameter, no?
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Jul 5, 2011 19:23
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I always assumed this was a quirk with my bike but maybe it's not good for it. When I park my bike I leave it in gear to act as a parking brake. If the bike sits overnight when I pull the clutch lever in the next morning, it seems that the clutch is still engaged. Now if I go to start the bike it will lurch forward slightly and then act normally. I can also rock the bike forward it will also disengage the clutch, which is what I normally do. Am I correct in assuming that this occurs because the oil left on the clutch and having cooled overnight provides some friction that has to be overcome before working normally? The clutch acts normally outside of the initial cold start and haven't had any problems otherwise. My previous bike didn't do this, but I didn't see the harm in what it's doing now. But could this cause damage? If so, do I have to adjust my clutch or possibly do something else to remedy this?
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Jul 6, 2011 05:28
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clutchpuck posted:To turn this into a question... anybody know how to get the seat off a '82 CX500? I am pretty stumped by this. It doesn't flip off sideways does it?
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Jul 6, 2011 05:42
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BradleyJamers posted:I always assumed this was a quirk with my bike but maybe it's not good for it. When I park my bike I leave it in gear to act as a parking brake. If the bike sits overnight when I pull the clutch lever in the next morning, it seems that the clutch is still engaged. That's normal, every bike I've ridden has done that. Just hold the brake when you start it.
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Jul 6, 2011 06:16
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clutchpuck posted:I got another friend into riding, he got his endorsement about a month ago and we picked up a Honda CX500 from Seattle on Saturday for $850. Thing runs like a champ and it has upgraded front brakes with a 4-piston Honda caliper, but it's been dropped a stops a few times, is brownish, and has weird handlebars so looks aren't its strength. Sanchezz, call for you on line 7....
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Jul 6, 2011 06:53
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nvm, worked it out.
Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Jul 6, 2011 |
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Jul 6, 2011 13:50
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I'm new to riding, so apologies in advance if this is a dumb question but... I have a 2003 Honda Shadow 600 with 7000 miles - how often do I need to worry about oiling the chain, replacing fuel filters, changing the oil, etc? Reading online recommends oiling the chain every 300 miles, replace the fuel filters once a year unless I notice problems with them. I also noticed when I'm riding it sounds like I'm getting a little bit of a squeak from my front wheel. I've taken a look at it and don't see anything that looks like it's broken or not sitting correctly. The only thing I can think of is the front wheel bearings care causing a problem, but my research online shows they should not be going out this early and should be good for at least 50,000 miles. Jeez, I sound like the loving new guy at work who doesn't know anything about computers. americanzero4128 fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Jul 6, 2011 |
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Jul 6, 2011 15:56
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The service intervals and types of service should be in your owner's manual. If you no longer have the manual, it can be downloaded from the Honda owner's website, https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/ As for your noises, you might be able to more easily track them with a stethoscope to listen for the exact location of the noise. (That is, if you can make it do it propped up on the ground while listening.)
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Jul 6, 2011 16:13
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Chain every 300-400 miles. Don't skimp on this, I've ruined a $300 set of chain and sprockets by neglecting to keep them lubed. It's very easy to do, so do it as much as possible. Oil, 3000-5000 miles. Again, you can never change this too much. I wouldn't push much past 5000 miles. Cheap insurance. Your bearings could go out early -- next time you have the front wheel off (do you know how/have the tools to pull it off?) run your finger along the bearings and see if they're rolling smooth.
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Jul 6, 2011 16:13
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Lube your wheel bearings, if they're not the fully sealed type. Also might be your brake pads squeeking.
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Jul 6, 2011 16:26
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-Inu- posted:Chain every 300-400 miles. Don't skimp on this, I've ruined a $300 set of chain and sprockets by neglecting to keep them lubed. It's very easy to do, so do it as much as possible. Oil, 3000-5000 miles. Again, you can never change this too much. I wouldn't push much past 5000 miles. Cheap insurance. Your bearings could go out early -- next time you have the front wheel off (do you know how/have the tools to pull it off?) run your finger along the bearings and see if they're rolling smooth. I don't have the tools at my apartment (no garage) so next time I'm at home visiting my parents I'll take the front wheel off and see what my dad and I can find. He's got the tools and has been riding since the 70s so I think we should be able to figure out what's going on. As for the chain - is there a lubricant that the riders here prefer over another? Reading other forums, people are using kerosene, brake cleaner, a rag, Simple Green, WD40, diesel fuel, mineral spirits, engine degreaser to clean the chain...tons of different poo poo. There's a lot of information on the internet that's bad and I really don't want to gently caress something up. Do I just wipe the chain down to get most of the muck off, squirt on the chain cleaner, wipe it again, then apply the lube and that's it? Z3n posted:Lube your wheel bearings, if they're not the fully sealed type. Also might be your brake pads squeeking. Brake pads is the other thing I thought, but it does it all the time, even when I don't have the front brake engaged. I guess the brake pads could be rubbing slightly, so that's something I'll have to check. For the wheel bearings, can I just use regular grease like I would on a truck or tractor wheel bearing? Again, sorry for the newbie questions, but I'd like to keep my bike running smoothly and not have a problem while driving to work. americanzero4128 fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Jul 6, 2011 |
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Jul 6, 2011 16:32
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americanzero4128 posted:As for the chain - is there a lubricant that the riders here prefer over another? Reading other forums, people are using kerosene, brake cleaner, a rag, Simple Green, WD40, diesel fuel, mineral spirits, engine degreaser...tons of different poo poo. There's a lot of information on the internet that's bad and I really don't want to gently caress something up. Do I just wipe the chain down to get most of the muck off, squirt on the chain cleaner, wipe it again, then apply the lube and that's it? I just use gear oil. I used to scrub with a brush, but I don't really see the point so I stopped doing that. I just put the oil on the top of the chain as it heads towards the rear sprocket (so that when the bike is in motion it forces the oil through the chain, hopefully lubing the o-rings better) and wipe off any excess with a rag. My chain looks brand new still after nearly 13k miles.
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Jul 6, 2011 16:36
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My Bonneville has developed a starting problem. In neutral, with the run switch on, battery charged, the starter just makes this clicking noise when I press the starter button. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwc4Shq7BcE I found if I try to bump start it in 2nd, it loosens things up and I can engage the starter, but it turns over slowly and won't start easily, and the problem seems to be getting worse. Any ideas? Armyman25 fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Jul 6, 2011 |
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Jul 6, 2011 18:10
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Armyman25 posted:My Bonneville has developed a starting problem. In neutral, with the run switch on, battery charged, the starter just makes this clicking noise when I press the starter button. Your battery is dead. Also how are you bump starting without putting it in gear?
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Jul 6, 2011 18:35
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Skier posted:Your battery is dead. I meant 2nd, sloppy writing on my part. I think my battery may be just going bad then, I've charged it over night to have the same effect. I'll put a charger on it and try it again.
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Jul 6, 2011 18:39
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americanzero4128 posted:eading other forums, people are using kerosene, brake cleaner, a rag, Simple Green, WD40, diesel fuel, mineral spirits, engine degreaser to clean the chain...tons of different poo poo. There's a lot of information on the internet that's bad and I really don't want to gently caress something up. Do I just wipe the chain down to get most of the muck off, squirt on the chain cleaner, wipe it again, then apply the lube and that's it? If you're using oil as a grease, cleaning the chain might not give you many extra miles out of the chain. I don't know since I haven't bothered to look it up since I don't use oil. With anything else, clean the chain with a rag. Use some wd40 or special chain cleaner (maybe kerosene too, because I don't know if that is bad for the o-rings) since they spoil o-rings the least. Lube the top (and bottom if you use wax). With wax, put the stuff on with an toothbrush. With a spray, be careful of not spaying the grippy part of the tire (sidewall is fine, just wipe it off as best as you can so it doesn't drip down onto the grippy part). Also if you value your fingers, don't let the bike idle in gear but put it in neutral and spin the rear wheel with your hand. That is it. You are now a chain master. americanzero4128 posted:Brake pads is the other thing I thought, but it does it all the time, even when I don't have the front brake engaged. I guess the brake pads could be rubbing slightly, so that's something I'll have to check. For the wheel bearings, can I just use regular grease like I would on a truck or tractor wheel bearing? Brake pads move very little, so they are pretty much almost always touching the discs. Sometimes this gives a little metallic scraping sound when rolling around. This is normal, especially after rain. Another way brakes can squeak is a high pitched and loud yelp every time you are braking. This happens because the pads vibrate inside the caliper ever so slightly. This means you're either missing a backing plate on the pads, or you need a bit of (copper) grease in between the pads and caliper to smooth things out. The third sound is loud metal on metal scraping when on the brakes, this means the pads are worn and you should have replaced them already. Any other sound and you should check other components.
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Jul 6, 2011 20:49
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americanzero4128 posted:As for the chain - is there a lubricant that the riders here prefer over another? Reading other forums, people are using kerosene, brake cleaner, a rag, Simple Green, WD40, diesel fuel, mineral spirits, engine degreaser to clean the chain...tons of different poo poo. There's a lot of information on the internet that's bad and I really don't want to gently caress something up. Do I just wipe the chain down to get most of the muck off, squirt on the chain cleaner, wipe it again, then apply the lube and that's it? I know a few people on here use gear oil, but I find that you have to reapply it way too often and chain lube isn't expensive enough for me to justify the inconvenience personally. The most important thing when lubing your chain is to do it when it is WARM. If you lube a cold chain, the lube is going to fling right off. Ride your bike around for a couple miles or ideally lube it right after a ride. As for cleaning the chain, 90% of chain cleaners on the market are kerosene-based, so you will be fine using kerosene. Diesel fuel works too. DO NOT USE WD-40. I actually briefly discussed it with one of my CHBE professors one day. WD40 is a Water Displaser. The simplest way to look at it is this stuff penetrates into the o-rings, and guess what it does? It displaces water, or in other words, dries the rubber o-rings out. What's the purpose of lubing your chain? To keep the o-rings healthy and lubed. It's contradictory and again, I don't think it's worth saving $3.99 on a can of chain cleaner to use a $3.99 can of WD-40. But yeah, soak your chain with a chain cleaner (this will remove the layers of gunk and grit that you don't want building up on your chain). Then hit it with a brush until it's relatively clean (doesn't have to be spotless). Wipe the chain down to get the dirt and the cleaner off. Hit it with chain lube; I usually do about 2 full rotations. With PJ1 you can lightly wipe the excess off immediately. With other brands you may want to let it sit for a minute or two before wiping.
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Jul 7, 2011 01:58
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Skier posted:Your battery is dead. Definitely not. His starter is.
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Jul 7, 2011 02:27
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-Inu- posted:
Oh god not this again... this myth has been busted a million times.
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Jul 7, 2011 04:00
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Permabanned idiot posted:Definitely not. His starter is. Shoot. I charged my battery up and took it to Advance Auto parts store to get it tested, they said it was a bad battery, and I've got the replacement ready for installation tomorrow. Well, we shall see if that fixes the problem, otherwise it's time to see how much a starter will set me back. In other news, I finally got my Indian in the shop, they said that the last shop had the timing advanced as far as it would go and the carb was extremely mal-adjusted. Hopefully these guys know what they're doing and all I need is some adjustment. Will post an update tomorrow!
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Jul 7, 2011 04:38
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Crayvex posted:Oh god not this again... this myth has been busted a million times. When has it been busted "a million times"? I'd be happy with 2-3 links with sufficient evidence to backup the claim, since there are a million avaliable. I know there was a test on advrider actually done scientifically, but that person only tested the diameter and thickness of the o-rings. That's only one very small part of the equation. The big issue would be from the structural integrity of the o-rings and their ability to properly seal. Sorry, this kind of thing is strongly related to my major (chemical engineering) so I'm pretty passionate about it. I would love to see something with actual proof one way or the other. Regardless, anyone who wants to is free to use whatever they like on their chain. It doesn't matter to me, I'm not in the kerosene business nor does it affect me if someone's chain dies early. Can you use WD40 and be okay? Probably. Can you go ride for a year without gear and be okay? Probably. But why would you chance either thing?
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Jul 7, 2011 05:36
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