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dangerz posted:Fort Worth Mind the ATV's/Bikes, etc on Memorial Day weekend... OHV parks tend to get packed and crazy, you'll have kids on bikes not paying attention, folks going the wrong way down one way paths, etc. I say this because I'm going out to a OHV [Hungry Valley SVRA in Gorman, CA] park this weekend with a few friends, and we're planning to wheel away from the crowds. Generally speaking most of the madness happens near the campsites, since most folks don't leave eyesight of the campgrounds. That depends if its a big park or not. If you are with an experienced group you'll be fine.
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May 26, 2012 05:34
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How clunky is the AW4 normally? I think I might have fixed my idle problem with the new TPS, and my transmission is less clunky, but it still has a decent clunk going into drive sometimes. Reverse is always smooth, and when its cold it seems like drive never clunks.
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May 26, 2012 06:21
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So back in March I flipped my Jeep doing about 65 mph on the Glenn Highway up here in Anchorage. Unbelievably, no car hit me as I careened across a lane of traffic during a very busy piece of the highway. This is the result: I figured that the truck was pretty much well and hosed at this point. It was going to have to be towed straight away to a mechanic before it would get running. Well, color me surprised that when the tow truck driver showed up and flipped it upright it started right up. I drove the drat thing to the ER and back home. Here's a look at the passenger side:  All told, the alignment was hosed, side view mirror was busted, and bodywork damage taking up most of the insurance cost. 3000 paid out by Geico. Jeeps are tough.
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May 26, 2012 06:32
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rally posted:How clunky is the AW4 normally? I think I might have fixed my idle problem with the new TPS, and my transmission is less clunky, but it still has a decent clunk going into drive sometimes. Reverse is always smooth, and when its cold it seems like drive never clunks. Clunky usually means engine/tranny mounts. Also HeyEng, you're lucky snow is soft 
MrZig fucked around with this message at 06:49 on May 26, 2012 |
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May 26, 2012 06:38
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MrZig posted:Clunky usually means engine/motor mounts. Oh yeah, so lucky. What you can't see is that the median is actually a very deep ditch that fills ups to level in some areas, or in my case, a huge berm. Had I not hit the berm things would've been real lovely. There oughta be a tumblr of Glenn Highway accidents because some of them defy physics.
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May 26, 2012 06:42
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rally posted:How clunky is the AW4 normally? I think I might have fixed my idle problem with the new TPS, and my transmission is less clunky, but it still has a decent clunk going into drive sometimes. Reverse is always smooth, and when its cold it seems like drive never clunks. It is pretty normal with the AW4 for it to clunk when going from park in to drive. As long as it is shifting smoothly between gears while driving I wouldn't worry.
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May 26, 2012 12:10
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HeyEng posted:So back in March I flipped my Jeep doing about 65 mph on the Glenn Highway up here in Anchorage. Unbelievably, no car hit me as I careened across a lane of traffic during a very busy piece of the highway. This is the result: That's amazing.
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May 26, 2012 13:53
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HeyEng posted:So back in March I flipped my Jeep doing about 65 mph on the Glenn Highway up here in Anchorage. Unbelievably, no car hit me as I careened across a lane of traffic during a very busy piece of the highway. This is the result: Use it as an excuse to put in a small lift. Having the body roughed up already will just encourage you to wheel it!
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May 26, 2012 14:26
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dangerz posted:Fort Worth Did you go out with the Lone Star Jeep Club, bunch of them headed out this morning? I couldnt make it today but I live in Plano so if you ever need a buddy hit me up.
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May 26, 2012 17:32
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Took the Jeep out wheeling for the second time today. Nothing new to anyone in this thread, but I feel like I just had a 6-hour orgasm. I really must remember to take pics.
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May 27, 2012 02:46
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JEEVES420 posted:Did you go out with the Lone Star Jeep Club, bunch of them headed out this morning? I couldnt make it today but I live in Plano so if you ever need a buddy hit me up. Here are some shots of my rig that I liked. I'm still waiting for the shots from the other photographer. Kinda hard to get shots of my own Jeep while I'm wheeling.     Noone broke anything. I was pretty happy with how my jeep performed. In upgrades, I'm thinking my next thing will be the Currie AntiSway bar. I also realized that the spare that came with the Jeep is the wrong size, so I'll grab a new tire too.
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May 27, 2012 07:40
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dangerz posted:Yeah I did.. it was a blast. I posted our photos here. COOL! looks like an awesome day to be on the trail.
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May 27, 2012 14:33
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BEEP BEEP I'M A BROKEN PIECE OF poo poo PLASTIC FACTORY RADIATOR! Right in the middle of some gnarly trails, nonetheless. Ordered a new 3-row CSF all-metal replacement.
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May 28, 2012 03:29
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Philip J Fry posted:BEEP BEEP I'M A BROKEN PIECE OF poo poo PLASTIC FACTORY RADIATOR! Right in the middle of some gnarly trails, nonetheless. Ordered a new 3-row CSF all-metal replacement. What are the odds you could take that to a rad shop and have a metal end-tank fitted? I'm thinking pretty good by the looks of things.
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May 28, 2012 13:48
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maybe, but it'd cost quite a bit (I'd estimate at least 50, that'd be custom work) and you would still have one plastic tank left (with the ATF cooler lines going through it, making it more annoying) to fail. And a CSF 3-row is 130 bucks iirc... might be up to 160 now. I did a stupid thing  Was on a hill climb (a fairly steep one) that I went up easily on the same set of tires open/open two years ago. Realized halfway up that it was a LOT more dug out now, and there was no way I was making it up without both ends locked and probably a lot more (turns out it had just denied a friend of mine on 37" comp tires locked front and rear, he had to get winched up right before I got there) and went to back down. It was slippery enough that I ended up stuck pretty good in a corner and drove up that tree in reverse trying to get out. I eventually did get myself out, but it looked like it'd need winching for a while.
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May 28, 2012 20:43
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Got my gps data out from our trip. Full trail here: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=216018521289541106538.0004c1135c85218b6f6b6&msa=0&ll=33.232962,-97.79686&spn=0.010356,0.021136 I overlayed it with the trail map for the place we went to and then colored it in to see the type of trails we did. It was supposed to be a newbie day and they definitely stuck to the easier trails.  Summary Total distance: 9.22 km (5.7 mi) Total time: 2:49:03 Moving time: 1:16:01 Average speed: 3.27 km/h (2.0 mi/h) Average moving speed: 7.28 km/h (4.5 mi/h) Max speed: 36.04 km/h (22.4 mi/h) Average pace: 18.33 min/km (29.5 min/mi) Average moving pace: 8.24 min/km (13.3 min/mi) Min pace: 1.66 min/km (2.7 min/mi) Max elevation: 273 m (897 ft) Min elevation: 216 m (708 ft) Elevation gain: 229 m (751 ft)
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May 29, 2012 00:06
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Sponge! posted:What are the odds you could take that to a rad shop and have a metal end-tank fitted? I'm thinking pretty good by the looks of things. Probably pretty good, but I had some ebay bux saved up and have been wanting an upgrade anyway. I tried putting a Champion all-aluminum 3-row in a few months ago when I did my e-fan conversion, but it wouldn't fit right and the cap wouldn't go on because the neck was too close to the header panel. I suppose I could have made it fit with some judicious use of the angle grinder, but I didn't feel like hacking the poo poo out of stuff just to install something that was supposed to be 'drop-in'. The XJ did really well otherwise. Made it up a slippery off-camber rock section that two TJ's had to winch up (one with dual OX lockers.) I only winched myself once over some gnarly rocks because I didn't feel like throttling up and over while bouncing everywhere and snapping something in the driveline. Kind of wanted to test out the new synthetic line anyway and everyone else winched in the same spot so we made good use of the anchor point already set up. Had to get towed/leashed/winch myself down a thankfully fairly section of trail to get to back to the forest service road and then back down to the nearest gas station. Called my insurance's roadside assistance and they had a flatbed to me in half an hour. Talking with the driver, apparently they are the only company that will actually come out to the trail head and even have Jeeps to come and get you out of the trails if need be. Ended up costing me $50 due to being outside of the 'free' 15 mile bubble that insurance covers, but given the situation I felt it was a hell of a deal. A few pics: Creeping by some window busters  Tank trap, one of the few mud holes up there  This Bronco II rolled somewhere down below us on one of the trails and fuxed its tie rod, so on our way out near one of the trail heads it was winched backwards uphill with snatch blocks by two JK's from the side and guided onto a flatbed.  Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 01:21 on May 29, 2012 |
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May 29, 2012 00:43
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 Almost done...  :woot: Sandbagger is back on the road! T-Case drop went in pretty smoothly with help from Kastein and ACE. The broken shock mount in the back was annoying but eventually yielded. The Pinion angle worked out to be pretty mild after we put weight on the rear axle and dropped the T-case. We took it for a test drive down Breakneck Rd. to make sure everything was squared away. The new suspension is a MUCH softer ride. Got some more stuff to work on tomorrw so I'm hitting the sack for now. Here's a pic of the other side at the gas station after the run. I had an issue with some water in my dist cap but we got it sorted out for now. Need to go over the fuel and electrical bits tomorrow when we have daylight. 
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May 29, 2012 06:18
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That was a fun break-in run, really glad it was water in the distributor not something in that horrible mess of vacuum lines and AMC electronics. I suspect you're gonna get a bit of driveline vibes from the rear driveshaft at 50-60 or above, not sure how fast you normally drive, but that'd be an issue for me. We'll see I guess. Hopefully we can get 4wd working (drat vacuum disconnects...) and fix some other stuff tomorrow, then see how it does! Also, that tcase skid drop went REALLY easy. You were right, and whatever company you said did the trans replacement last year is a company I'd strongly recommend anyone go to, they antiseized everything and I didn't see any hackjob repairs to that section. A lot of shops would have welded that skid back on.
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May 29, 2012 06:34
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dangerz posted:Got my gps data out from our trip. Full trail here: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=216018521289541106538.0004c1135c85218b6f6b6&msa=0&ll=33.232962,-97.79686&spn=0.010356,0.021136 What are you using to get this?
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May 29, 2012 14:21
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Godholio posted:What are you using to get this? GPS is constantly on, so I made sure to keep the phone plugged in the whole trip.
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May 29, 2012 16:19
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I just got an '02 Wrangler Sport - when it's cold it's a little clunky going into second. If I'm going slow from first and shift it's fine, but if I'm being a little more aggressive and shifting at higher rpm (or when the motors spinning much at all) it gives out a pretty loud grind. If I've been driving all day this problem goes away and it shifts perfectly. Any idea what could fix a problem like this? The mechanic that inspected it said something about the thickness of oil in the transmission but I was just thinking about phat rimz so I didn't pay attention. Here's my new baby 
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May 29, 2012 21:28
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Astonishing Wang posted:The mechanic that inspected it said something about the thickness of oil in the transmission Most likely. However it could be the 2nd gear synchro is knackered and when the proper thickness oil warms up it works better. Does it grind coming down from 3rd?
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May 30, 2012 00:10
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Have you tried rev matching / double clutching it? 2nd gear synchro is probably just a little crunchy. Mine sure is, some due to the PO, some due to me.
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May 30, 2012 00:21
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Kastein and I got a bunch done on my YJ today: -Removed about 20 feet of vacuum line AT LEAST. We basically removed all the SSI/E-carb crap that was still in there and streamlined the system. -Nutter Bypass. -Perma locked the D30 shifter motor. -Tried to test the 4wd and found that the t-case is messed up. -Brought it out to Breakneck again for the hell of it.  The weather was humid and super warm temps.  Jeep BFFs FOREVER   Post-cleanup engine bay. Still left: -Windshield wipers: We got the parts to fix them but sort of ran out of time. -T-case needs either a new chain or a new unit. -Probably need to adjust the timing. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 02:13 on May 30, 2012 |
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May 30, 2012 02:10
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So as I've yammered on about, I bought a Renix MJ with horrible lifter/top-end noise and shot synchros (AX15, not BA-10/5, thank god). My options are this: (1) rebuild my junkyard '94 4.0L to stock and rebuild AX15 with new seals/synchros, (2) budget stroker 4.5-4.7L (depending on block/head cleanup requirements) and aforementioned AX15 work, or (3) buy newly-valved/cammed/sealed, started-once '02 SS LS1/T56 from a friend for roughly $500 more than the cheaper of the above options. Option 3 would require Novak mounts, headers, harness, replacement of the closed cooling (was planning to put a CSF in my '01 XJ anyway), and untold misery, but gently caress me if it's not what I want to do.  edit: the freshly-rebuilt brakes & MC aren't scary enough as it is, and D35 might as well go out in style OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 03:28 on May 30, 2012 |
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May 30, 2012 03:24
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I'd put the LS1 in. Remember it's gonna probably involve some driveshaft modifications and maybe a different transfer case as well, I'm not familiar with the T56. If you don't feel like doing that, rebuild the 4.0. Unless you're doing the stroker yourself, in which case do that - IMO prebuilt strokers are WAY overpriced. edit: a few more things about an LS1 swap / MJs - - eliminate the stupid load sensing valve at the back axle. Reroute your brakes to match the XJ, install a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve if you feel the need to. Use an XJ proportioning valve under the hood and preferably upgrade to a WJ or 95/96 XJ double diaphragm booster and matching-model master cylinder, though this isn't required. - I don't think a 3-row CSF will be enough for an LS1, most people I've seen building V8 XJs/MJs have to get a custom radiator made up to keep up with heat generation. - I don't know if you're planning on converting to 4wd or if it is already or what, but if you are going to, now is the time, as you are going to be changing your rear driveshaft length anyways and all the other stuff that connects to everything will be out of the way. If a T56 will somehow bolt up to an NP231 (might have to use a Chevy NP231 out of a truck or something to match the spline count / diameter of the trans output? dunno) it really won't involve much extra work, just swapping in a dana 30 (which bolts up instead of the stock 2wd front beam, might have to change your calipers out, big deal) and making a front driveshaft as well as a rear. That emissions system / electronic carb / subway map / internet series of tubes under sandbagger's hood was possibly the highest concentration of WTFs per hose I have ever encountered. None of it even made sense the way it was hooked up, there was a goofy amount of completely unecessary poo poo that seems to have accumulated over the last few owners and decades. I even found a check valve connected from the carb (just below the throttle butterfly, so technically it was hooked to the manifold vacuum)... to the carb just below the throttle butterfly. No clue why it was there, seeing as it literally did NOTHING. 1980s.jpg (and this isn't even everything we tore out... and it ran the same after)  I think the carb could still use a good tuning because the plugs were horrifyingly dirty. Lots of soot, with some white scale mixed in, and the insulator on the cyl 1 plug was actually broken loose and sliding down to cross the gap between the electrode and the ground point. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:41 on May 30, 2012 |
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May 30, 2012 03:37
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Yup, it's a 2WD AX15 I bought as a... cheap alternative to the other projects I have floating around my garage. I figured I'd throw in a junkyard 4.0L and toss in the ~75k front suspension from my XJ (pulling that goofball valve in the rear), but it's quickly becoming a matter of "while I'm at it". At the very least, it needs 1-2 synchro (which I'm familiar enough with on an AX and if I have to press literally everything off the mainshaft to get to that synchro...), fuel injectors (infamous leaky Renix), fuel tank rollover valve (possibly more - smells gassy). PO threw $4k worth of parts at it, but yeah, I have later XJ and WJ MCs that I haven't yet cracked open to replace the rebuilt Renix-era piece. Machine work to rebuild the 4.0 to stock is cheap enough - hone/bore, deck, press cam bearing, press pistons. The '94 longblock I'm using has 384k but is clean if worn, so I'd either adapt the Renix intake or make a TB adapter at work. I wouldn't want to build a stroker without having bottom-end machining done, and it introduces the cost of a 258 crank and suitable pistons for quench with the 242 rods, adjustable FPR, and a host of other Renix things that I probably wouldn't give two fucks about under stock torque/DCR/etc. I have the makings of an OBD-I HO control system minus the cluster, but ehhhh. Original plan was throwing the CSF in my XJ and using the OE '97-'01 rad as the basis of an open system for the MJ, but true, I highly doubt it would even pretend to support an LS. A CSF with a pair of XJ electric fans would probably do the trick. At any rate, I'm overthinking it and doing so out loud. 
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May 30, 2012 04:31
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If I had to do it again, I would have used a junkyard motor instead of rebuilding my 4.0.
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May 30, 2012 12:27
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OneOverZero posted:Yup, it's a 2WD AX15 I bought as a... cheap alternative to the other projects I have floating around my garage. I figured I'd throw in a junkyard 4.0L and toss in the ~75k front suspension from my XJ (pulling that goofball valve in the rear), but it's quickly becoming a matter of "while I'm at it". At the very least, it needs 1-2 synchro (which I'm familiar enough with on an AX and if I have to press literally everything off the mainshaft to get to that synchro...), fuel injectors (infamous leaky Renix), fuel tank rollover valve (possibly more - smells gassy). PO threw $4k worth of parts at it, but yeah, I have later XJ and WJ MCs that I haven't yet cracked open to replace the rebuilt Renix-era piece. We ended up doing that to Sandbagger yesterday (transfer case chain is slipping? might end up with a new front/rear ds, SYE, 231 instead of a 207, and 8.25 to replace the 35... but that all depends) and this is exactly how I ended up planning shaved dana 60s, a full frame, a 3-link front suspension (and possibly coilovers), a 318, an nv3500, a doubler box, and an SYE'd 231 for my MJ. I can't leave well enough alone.
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May 30, 2012 14:30
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kastein posted:
If I have the measurements correct, we removed roughly 1 AMC units of vacuum lines and .5 Chrysler units of torx bolts. It was a glorious day. I think my front end may be physically lighter despite the fact that it's now covered in mud. I would like to double check the timing along with the carb. There's still a handful of small fixes that need to be done though I could probably have it inspected tomorrow as is. Slow is Fast posted:If I had to do it again, I would have used a junkyard motor instead of rebuilding my 4.0. If my 4.2 ever needs a rebuild, a junkyard 4.0 is going in. You know- I was just thinking- are we sure that my jeep stalling when it gets warmed up isn't a stuffed up cat? Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 15:01 on May 30, 2012 |
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May 30, 2012 14:49
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I'm pretty sure it isn't - it'd be falling on its face at road speed if it was. And Monday night when we took it for the breakin run and it died due to water in the distributor, I checked exhaust flow using my calibrated left hand exhaust gas flow meter on the tailpipe and it seemed to be flowing just fine.
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May 30, 2012 15:45
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I get to buy a new catalytic convertor today  gently caress California, gently caress CARB, and gently caress everything. On the plus side, I get to take my jeep off road for the first time on Saturday! Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 19:58 on May 30, 2012 |
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May 30, 2012 19:27
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Hi Jeep thread. Long time BMW sufferer, here. I've sold 2 of my M3s and the last one is going on the market today. I'm tired of VANOS, interiors made of sand and suspension/cooling refreshes worth more than the car. I want something I can spray out, beat the crap out of, go camping in, sit back and slowly/loudly cruise into my mid 20s top down without worrying if the magic button will actually return it to the upright and locked position. I'm looking at YJs because I think I'm interested in the least creature comforts possible. I don't have any massive rock crawling plans but the mountains around here are pretty nice and I plan on getting to some remote campsites. I've done a lot of wrenching on my e36s so I'm reasonably capable in that regard. All this being said, tell me: am I making a terrible mistake? Will I hate my life even more after this decision? Should I be looking at another Jeep product? Will all the southern ladies take me more seriously with a truck instead of that old Germ-an car?  When time permits I'd like to take a look at this: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/3010360583.html
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May 30, 2012 21:22
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SuperDucky posted:Hi Jeep thread. Long time BMW sufferer, here. I've sold 2 of my M3s and the last one is going on the market today. I'm tired of VANOS, interiors made of sand and suspension/cooling refreshes worth more than the car. YJs are in my opinion a pretty good buy as far as older jeeps go. This is primarily because - they are still recent enough to have a lot of easy to buy parts floating around, - they're super easy to work on and most of them are old enough to have little computer. - purists for some reason are really loving hung up about the square headlights and shun them even though they are closer to a classic CJ than the TJ or JK ever were.  YJs come in a couple flavors: The 4.2L straight six which uses crap solid state ignition and an electronic carb. These ran from 87 to 91. I have one of these  The 2.5L I4 which depending on who you ask is a gas saver. The 4.0L stuff of legends jeep engine of doom. The early models have what are lovingly refered to as "kid crusher" roll bars which protect only the driver and passenger. In 92 the "family friendly" roll bar was added as an option. There's an automatic which is about as reliable as an automatic can be. The fact you're on here and mentioned that you want to use it a little off road tells me you probably want a manual though. Most of these jeeps don't have ABS. That said, if you like the idea of a gritty oily greasy smelly beast of a vehicle, an old wrangler pretty much fits that. Driving with the top and doors off is awesome. Your biggest problems will be feeding it gas and "fixing" the AMC/Chryslerisms that are inherent in the design like swapping an inefficient BBD carburetor or a lovely D35 rear end.
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May 31, 2012 01:53
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commissargribb posted:As a YJ owner I can tell you a little bit about them I'm by no means an expert but I have a lot of general knowledge. commissargribb posted:That said, if you like the idea of a gritty oily greasy smelly beast of a vehicle, an old wrangler pretty much fits that. Driving with the top and doors off is awesome.  the better. +10 points for doors-off. commissargribb posted:Your biggest problems will be feeding it gas  Most of my driving is a 45 minute highway commute between school and the lake like twice a week. Are there any easy options for this like an overdrive? Any idea of what to expect, realistically?Thanks for all the info! I'll definitely be saving all this.
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May 31, 2012 02:54
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commissargribb posted:The 2.5L I4 which depending on who you ask is a gas saver. Mine got 13 mpg with the 5-speed. Not what I'd call a gas saver.
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May 31, 2012 02:59
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SuperDucky posted:
It's a brick wall with a tent strapped onto the back. The only way to save gas is to drive slower. You'll have to get used to going slower than any typical car anyway, then go even slower if you want your mileage to be greater than 10mpg. Taking the doors off and the top down makes your mileage even worse, but I doubt you'll care at that point.
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May 31, 2012 03:28
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Mine constantly gets 17-20 mpg, and I drive it pretty heavy, and it's a 4.2L. Better ignition really helps. You also have to be super careful when looking at lifted Jeeps, since you never know when the PO cut corners. I'd personally look for a stock/2" max lift with maximum 31" tires, because these DEFINITELY need a re-gear, and when they go into higher altitudes, more things tend to break, or crappy fixes are common. Putting that aside, YJ's are dirt easy to keep running. Mine has never given me much trouble other than once when my ignition module died and I couldn't diagnose it right, but that later got replaced for a MSD which wasn't more than a 15 minute install. I constantly joke about how these are just like legos, since you can switch out pretty much anything and everything is readily accesible (no stupid tabs and instructions like those found on Mercedes or other germans).
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May 31, 2012 03:56
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I used my MJ crane to remove the cab from a dodge 2500 pickup parts truck tonight. It didn't go quite as smoothly as it could have, but about as smoothly as I could expect, seeing as I put a grand total of 100 dollars into it. Apparently those cabs are heavy - at least 700-800lbs I would estimate. It fully compressed the front suspension and the rear suspension was so close to unloaded that I could lift the rear wheels off the ground by grabbing the rear bumper and lifting with about 150-200lbs of force. Good thing I put it in 4-lo before starting this ridiculous adventure, since it did an endo every time I (slowly) accelerated in reverse or braked going forward. That was definitely the absolute max I'll ever use it for. Fortunately a 4.0L is way lighter than the cab, it handled pretty ok with one of those hanging off it.
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May 31, 2012 04:00
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