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BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

MiniFoo posted:

Turbo Bricklin.

Ohhhhhh, right!

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Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

So it's a Volvo swap now, then?

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer
Apparently the Bricklin came with a Mr. Fusion:


Look at what I found at PepBoys! It was $179 for the 1 ton hoist, or $179 for the 2 ton hoist. I went with the $179 one.

STOP WINKING AT ME

The anticipation...


is palpable...




I really hate the word palpable.

BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Oct 7, 2012

Fornax Disaster
Apr 11, 2005

If you need me I'll be in Holodeck Four.
I just found this on Youtube, a Bricklin being given away on Let's Make A Deal. The audience loses it when they see it, then Monty Hall suggests that the gullwing doors would make it easier for fat guys to get in and out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcYf64aKDJo

PreacherNutshot
Dec 8, 2005
I love children, but I can't eat a whole one.
I just saw a Bricklin for sale in Joplin, MO ($2700, I think), in case anyone is looking for their own project, or wants to compete with the OP (I'm putting my money on BoostCreep, I like the way he documents his progress.)

Edit: Here's the link and it's $3700.

PreacherNutshot fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Oct 9, 2012

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

PreacherNutshot posted:

or wants to compete with the OP

Gah, I don't need that kind of pressure.

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

BoostCreep posted:

Gah, I don't need that kind of pressure.

Plus who wouldn't want to work with quality workmanship such as this:

How the headlight panels are attached to the headlights:


"Crap we made the headlight bezels too big!"
"Hmm, let's just cut a huge chunk out of it!"
(this is how both bezels are, meaning they came that way from the factory. They were gently massaged to clear the hinges for the headlights.)


I removed the front bumper to get the engine hoist closer to the engine and saw some more quality work from the Bricklin team. Look at those seams! I also dig the mismatched bolts, washers, and nuts.


There's glue everywhere!

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Pride of New Brunswick :canada:

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
70s fiberglass composites and superior plastics :swoon:

I haven't seen that kind of fiberglass since forever. Oh, how I miss it... not.

stone soup
Jul 8, 2004

kastein posted:

70s fiberglass composites and superior plastics :swoon:
Superior Canadian adhesives.

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009
I got mildly curious, so I started looking around for Bricklins for sale just for shits. I actually found quite a few (including a couple ~$2k "restorables", but these two stuck out for wildly different reasons.

http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/cto/3279723064.html



Z31 taillights :cripes:


The background of this one kind of does the talking. Seems like the owners of this one are "those" neighbors.



And the other - this one may be actual gold. Seems very low priced for mileage and condition.

http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/cto/3319920621.html

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

That makes me sick to my stomach. 28k miles and sat in a showroom for 25 years. What a waste. Absolutely beyond fixable at this point without replacing the entire body and interior. At least give me the driver's side window!

Octopus Magic
Dec 19, 2003

I HATE EVERYTHING THAT YOU LIKE* AND I NEED TO BE SURE YOU ALL KNOW THAT EVERY TIME I POST

*unless it's a DSM in which case we cool ^_^

BoostCreep posted:

That makes me sick to my stomach. 28k miles and sat in a showroom for 25 years. What a waste. Absolutely beyond fixable at this point without replacing the entire body and interior. At least give me the driver's side window!

Honestly, it's a Bricklin.

I'd rather him ruin that than another FD or Supra.

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

Octopus Magic posted:

Honestly, it's a Bricklin.

I'd rather him ruin that than another FD or Supra.

There are around 1,000 Bricklins left in the world, but ok.

BeastPussy
Jul 15, 2003

im so mumped up lmao
He should've hosed up a DSM instead, tons of those junkheaps laying around.

InterceptorV8
Mar 9, 2004

Loaded up and trucking.We gonna do what they say cant be done.
I do kinda like the nose on that other Bricklin, but yeah, the wheels and paint need to go.

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

Bang Me Please posted:

He should've hosed up a DSM instead, tons of those junkheaps laying around.

I'm not taking this bait. Troll elsewhere sir goony goon!

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
He should have hosed up an H2 or maybe an Escalade EXT.

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

Doesn't the H2 come pre-hosed-up from the factory?

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Collateral Damage posted:

Doesn't the H2 come pre-hosed-up from the factory?

To be fair, all GM vehicles come this way.

Octopus Magic
Dec 19, 2003

I HATE EVERYTHING THAT YOU LIKE* AND I NEED TO BE SURE YOU ALL KNOW THAT EVERY TIME I POST

*unless it's a DSM in which case we cool ^_^

BoostCreep posted:

There are around 1,000 Bricklins left in the world, but ok.

Just because it's rare doesn't mean it should still exist!

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Terminus Est
Sep 30, 2005


Motorcycle Miliitia


Octopus Magic posted:

Just because it's rare doesn't mean it should still exist!

Just like Pandas. If nature wanted them to exist they would be capable of breeding and eating more variety of food.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Collateral Damage posted:

Doesn't the H2 come pre-hosed-up from the factory?

I was going to say that but I figured people would get mad at me.

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal

Terminus Est posted:

Just like Pandas. If nature wanted them to exist they would be capable of breeding and eating more variety of food.

Yes and there wouldn't be a resturant chain that serves them as the main menu item. Panda Express I am looking at you. Why can't you be leftover cow parts express like every other terrible fast food chain.

SyHopeful
Jun 24, 2007
May an IDF soldier mistakenly gun down my own parents and face no repercussions i'd totally be cool with it cuz accidents are unavoidable in a low-intensity conflict, man

kastein posted:

I was going to say that but I figured people would get mad at me.

Who here would defend the H2?

Octopus Magic
Dec 19, 2003

I HATE EVERYTHING THAT YOU LIKE* AND I NEED TO BE SURE YOU ALL KNOW THAT EVERY TIME I POST

*unless it's a DSM in which case we cool ^_^

Terminus Est posted:

Just like Pandas. If nature wanted them to exist they would be capable of breeding and eating more variety of food.

I'd consider Pandas significantly more successful than Bricklins

Sardikar
Sep 27, 2004
I cant think of anything to put here.

You could think of this as an opportunity bring the cars detailing up to a higher standard than what was done in the factory!

All the tidying and cleaning up the glue joints, trimming the badly cut panels so they are neater, making it so that the bolts holding the car together now match and look good, o god I am getting hard just thinking about it!

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Octopus Magic posted:

Just because it's rare doesn't mean it should still exist!

Can you go poo poo in some other thread please? This is a Bricklin project thread.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Sockington posted:

To be fair, all GM vehicles come this way.

How dare you. :argh:

:911:

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer
These past two weekends have been a wash due to medical issues with family and my crazy work schedule, so I've been spending a lot of time researching since I haven't been able to do any wrenching.

So here's what I've been thinking about the past week. I've been hesitant to post about it since my mind isn't totally made up yet and I want to avoid the drama in the Tupperware thread by posting things and then changing my mind 16 seconds later, but here are some thoughts anyway.

I've made some requirements for the engines:
- Must have been sold in the US to make parts easier to source. (so no RB26DETT for example)
- Must be able to hit 500hp and torque reliably on stock block.
- OEM Turbo would be nice.
- 6 cylinder or larger for decent torque and lower boost required.
- Must weigh less than the stock 5.9 hunk of iron (~650lbs).

I'm down to 3 very different engine options, with pros and cons:

Toyota 2JZGTE 3.0 straight 6 twin turbo. 594lbs fully loaded.
Pros
- Built like a tank and can support ~800+hp on stock block.
- Relatively cheap at $2,500 for engine and auto tranny combined.
- Excellent aftermarket support.
- OEM turbo engine.
- Other than engine mounts and driveshaft, it should "drop in" and just work since it comes as a complete RWD package.

Cons
- Would have to be overnighted from Japan!, which means buying sight unseen. Could be a hunk of worthless metal.
- Very expensive to modify. Parts are out there, but pricey.
- It's a fairly long engine at ~29", so it will limit space between the engine and radiator for piping and fans and will put a lot of the weight towards the already nose-heavy car.
- The heaviest of the engines by far.
- Very common swap.
- OEM turbo engines have a lot of little parts that could be bad.


Mitsubishi 6G72TT 3.0 V6 twin turbo ~450-475lbs fully loaded.
Pros
- Stout engine, also capable of 800+hp on stock block.
- Short length at 21" inches, so it will sit nicely against the firewall and still behind the front wheels for good weight ratio.
- OEM turbo engine.
- Good aftermarket support, not as good as the 2JZ though.
- Can be modded for very cheap using DSM parts. Stock junkyard 1g DSM turbos and injectors will support 500hp.
- Super rare swap, especially in RWD form.

Cons
- Expensive. JDM engines are in the $3,500 range. But they always come with a tranny attached which could be sold for $500 or so to offset the cost.
- Never came RWD in the US in twin turbo form, so it needs heavy modification to the cooling and oiling systems to fit.
- Will have to buy a 3.5 V6 Montero RWD transmission at the cost of $600 or so.
- Most likely have to buy sight unseen as well.
- OEM turbo engines have a lot of little parts that could be bad.

GM LS Vortec 5.3 V8. ~450lbs fully loaded (not including aftermarket turbo)
Pros
- CHEAP! I can get an engine and auto tranny for around $1300 with probably as many miles as the JDM "super low mileage" engines have. Probably another $300 will get me the wiring harness and ECU.
- Stout. Can support 600+hp with boost.
- Aluminum block and heads for light weight.
- At 24", it's pretty compact for having 8 cylinders.
- Good aftermarket support, including OEM upgrades from other LS engines.
- Can be sourced from local junkyards, so no shipping costs required and I can check it out in person.

Cons
- Super common swap. They're everywhere and totally expected.
- Will have to buy and/or fabricate the turbo system.
- Did not come turbo from the factory and turboing NA engines is always risky.
- Will need some internal mods to make the power I want. (cam, valve springs, etc)
- Relatively pricey aftermarket parts.
- I believe most come with DBW, which means I would need to fabricate a cable system for the throttle or somehow install the DBW pedal and system in the Brick which might go against my "100% back to stock" aspirations.


Right now I'm leaning towards the 5.3 since I could buy an entire swap "kit" 5 miles from my house for dirt cheap. I could get it installed and running and driving NA fairly quickly, and then slowly piece together the turbo system as I'm actually driving the car. I know it doesn't fit my OEM turbo requirement, but since the engine and tranny is half the price of the others I can probably have a turbo system pieced together for about the same price. That DBW issue is definitely a worry though. I've heard that Chevy Express vans came with cable throttles until 2003, so I might have to look for that vintage engine.

The 6G and 2J both have other pros that I really like though. The 6G is a Mitsu engine and I'll admit I'm a mitsu fanboy, but it's also quite compact and rarely seen in RWD form which I would find a fun challenge. The 2J is a Supra engine which is just cool on its own, but also comes with a tranny bolted on and ready to go, unlike having to piece things together with the 3000GT engine and Montero tranny. But, the 2JZ is like a boat anchor in the front of the car where the 6G is lighter and further back in the engine bay.

BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Oct 20, 2012

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

Have you considered the 1UZ-FE 4.0L Lexus V8?

Weighs nothing, 6 bolt mains so its stupidly strong, Toyota reliability and can take a fair whack of boost on stock internals.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1UZ-FE#1UZ-FE

Its an underrated engine but its popular as hell in Aus- People are wedging them in everything from Cobra Kit cars to toyota Hilux's to Suzuki Vitaras!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Why are you anti-DBW? You can convert from one to the other (you'll have to modify or have someone modify the harness anyway) for relatively cheaply.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

womp womp womp womp
The first two engines are capable of meeting your power goal with just bolt ons but what about the transmission situation? Or are you sticking with an automatic?

Seconding the DBW thing, it's just a matter of some wiring and a throttlebody swap iirc. The DBW wire pedal would be simple to mount. An SBC with a T56 has a lot of options for shifter location. Also why the 5.3 and not a Gen III or L92?

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1104_594hp_53l_gen_iii_small_block_for_3252/viewall.html

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/completebuilds_testing/sucp_0806_budget_ls_engine_buildup/viewall.html

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

Ferremit posted:

Have you considered the 1UZ-FE 4.0L Lexus V8?

Yep. That's actually 4th on my list. There are a couple reasons I chose the 5.3 LS over the 1uz.

1. Obviously larger displacement. More power, less boost.
2. I can buy a low mileage (50-60k) 5.3 engine for $600, and at oldest it will be 9-10 years old. From what I read, only the early (pre '94?) 1uz's are good for boost since they have beefier internals. So that means I'm going to be either importing or locating a 20 year old engine which, even if low mileage, will still need pretty much an entire overhaul at the worst, or all new gaskets at best.
3. Price. JDM 1uz engines are in the $1,600 range plus shipping from unkown sources. If I pop the 5.3 I can drive 5 miles to the junkyard and pick up another for $600 again as opposed to hunting down another 1uz.

Having said that, I will absolutely entertain arguments for the 1uz. I do like that it's DOHC and a very strong engine. If I can find a cheap and reliable source for them I would consider it.


Edit: Also since I'm in California, I'll be running e85 in whichever engine I end up going with to avoid the piss water 91 octane. It'd be nice to pick up a v8 that is already designed and set up for it stock, hence the Chevy.

BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Oct 20, 2012

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

IOwnCalculus posted:

Why are you anti-DBW? You can convert from one to the other (you'll have to modify or have someone modify the harness anyway) for relatively cheaply.

Bulk Vanderhuge posted:

The first two engines are capable of meeting your power goal with just bolt ons but what about the transmission situation? Or are you sticking with an automatic?

Seconding the DBW thing, it's just a matter of some wiring and a throttlebody swap iirc. The DBW wire pedal would be simple to mount. An SBC with a T56 has a lot of options for shifter location. Also why the 5.3 and not a Gen III or L92?

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1104_594hp_53l_gen_iii_small_block_for_3252/viewall.html

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/completebuilds_testing/sucp_0806_budget_ls_engine_buildup/viewall.html


I'm not against DBW at all. All of the engines that I've seen for sale are DBW and come with the gas pedal and throttle control module attached. I spent some time looking through the surprisingly calm and intelligent Chevy truck forums to find that the ECU controls pretty much everything in the engine via throttle percentage read from the DBW control module. You can swap to a cable throttle, but it's apparently a very involved and expensive process. That's why I'd like to hopefully find a cable accelerator. If it really is a simple conversion and you have literature on that I'd love to have some more stuff to read. :)

I'm also not adverse to mounting the DBW gas pedal, but it's a little tricky because the factory Bricklin gas pedal and brake pedal are mounted as one unit. If I remove the gas pedal I remove the brake pedal. I'm trying to do my best not to modify the fiberglass, so I figure it'd just be easier to keep the stock pedal assembly. I already have a perfectly good throttle cable sticking through the firewall, so I might as well try to use it.

As for the transmission, I am planning on keeping it automatic for the time being. This car will be used on the street and drag strips only. I'm not about to fool myself into thinking this car will ever be able to take a turn on a live axle and leaf springs, and an auto will actually perform better at the drag strip anyway. I'll drive it like that for a while and when I get bored I'll plan the manual swap.

I am looking at the gen III 5.3L. I'd prefer an aluminum block 5.3, but the iron block Vortec is also on my list. The 5.3s are significantly cheaper than 5.7L+ engines and as your links show Bulk, the 5.3 gen III engines can make silly power for cheap.

Sinestro
Oct 31, 2010

The perfect day needs the perfect set of wheels.
Don't go American. :canada: must prove that it can survive without the US's help. I think the 2JZ is the best choice.

Das Volk
Nov 19, 2002

by Cyrano4747

BoostCreep posted:

Yep. That's actually 4th on my list. There are a couple reasons I chose the 5.3 LS over the 1uz.

1. Obviously larger displacement. More power, less boost.
2. I can buy a low mileage (50-60k) 5.3 engine for $600, and at oldest it will be 9-10 years old. From what I read, only the early (pre '94?) 1uz's are good for boost since they have beefier internals. So that means I'm going to be either importing or locating a 20 year old engine which, even if low mileage, will still need pretty much an entire overhaul at the worst, or all new gaskets at best.
3. Price. JDM 1uz engines are in the $1,600 range plus shipping from unkown sources. If I pop the 5.3 I can drive 5 miles to the junkyard and pick up another for $600 again as opposed to hunting down another 1uz.

Having said that, I will absolutely entertain arguments for the 1uz. I do like that it's DOHC and a very strong engine. If I can find a cheap and reliable source for them I would consider it.


Edit: Also since I'm in California, I'll be running e85 in whichever engine I end up going with to avoid the piss water 91 octane. It'd be nice to pick up a v8 that is already designed and set up for it stock, hence the Chevy.

There's no reason to go JDM for one of these, there are thousands of them in CA. A beat runner LS/SC400 can be had for $1000 or less and I guarantee it'll be in better shape than any of these turbo options. The 1UZ had been known to make up to 2000 horsepower on stock internals, and theres plenty of knowledge out there on doing builds.

If you want the GM motor I'd say don't bother with turbocharging, an N/A build gets you there without the added complexity.

Amos Moses
Oct 13, 2012

by Ralp

BoostCreep posted:





GM LS Vortec 5.3 V8. ~450lbs fully loaded (not including aftermarket turbo)
Pros
- CHEAP! I can get an engine and auto tranny for around $1300 with probably as many miles as the JDM "super low mileage" engines have. Probably another $300 will get me the wiring harness and ECU.
- Stout. Can support 600+hp with boost.
- Aluminum block and heads for light weight.
- At 24", it's pretty compact for having 8 cylinders.
- Good aftermarket support, including OEM upgrades from other LS engines.
- Can be sourced from local junkyards, so no shipping costs required and I can check it out in person.

Cons
- Did not come turbo from the factory and turboing NA engines is always risky.




1000+hp.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_1109_stock_gm_ls_engine_big_bang_theory/

I don't doubt that everyone here has already read this but if you haven't then give it a whirl.

If you don't want to have the "expected" factor then get the 4.8l

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!
How is E85 any better than 91 octane gasoline? Sure the alcohol might keep your combustion chambers a little cooler with boost but isn't E85's energy-per-pound (or however that's measured) still very poor compared to even regular unleaded?

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Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
That cooling with boost isn't a small effect, thus more power?

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