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Replaced the flasher in my XJ. Nice to have blinkers again, and it was way easier than I thought it would be.
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Oct 14, 2012 01:02
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Just replaced the crank position sensor in my XJ. That was kind of a bitch job--I used every wobble extension I had to make a big 3 foot or so long extension that just barely got to the bolts. Go nice and slow to make sure you don't drop a bolt into the bell housing. When I got the new one in the Jeep started right up and hasn't stalled yet, so hopefully this fixed my random stalls.
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Oct 15, 2012 05:02
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99 Cherokee Can I pull my CEL codes by doing the thing that makes them display in the odometer area or do I need to go to autozone?
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Oct 15, 2012 05:08
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Veins McGee posted:99 Cherokee This is a grand Cherokee, but it's the same way it works on my wrangler so it'll probably work on your Cherokee too  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LV4-3o1lsN0 Turn the ignition on three times in a row simultaneously and the diagnostic trouble codes should appear on the odometer. If there are no codes it will say "done" immediately. If not, the codes will appear one by one on the odometer until it says "done."
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Oct 15, 2012 16:58
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Astonishing Wang posted:This is a grand Cherokee, but it's the same way it works on my wrangler so it'll probably work on your Cherokee too Holy crap I never knew that this was a thing.
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Oct 15, 2012 19:53
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Do Not Fear Jazz posted:Holy crap I never knew that this was a thing. Most Chrysler's after 95 have this ability. The code "display" changes from blinking engine check light to odo display through out the years. Its a handy thing to know though, saves you a ton of time.
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Oct 15, 2012 20:29
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I bought my 1997 XJ Sport on Wednesday, blew the head gasket on Sunday. 
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Oct 15, 2012 20:46
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Veins McGee posted:99 Cherokee You can`t do it on the 99 Cherokee, it is disabled for whatever reason.
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Oct 15, 2012 21:15
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Do Not Fear Jazz posted:Holy crap I never knew that this was a thing. I had to go try it myself. Now I don't have to worry about who has my OBD-II reader constantly.
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Oct 15, 2012 21:36
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FreeFunnelCake posted:I bought my 1997 XJ Sport on Wednesday, blew the head gasket on Sunday. How many miles were on it out of curiosity? Also, that thing must have been pretty drat neglected. I feel like I never hear of a blown head gasket on a 4.0.
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Oct 16, 2012 02:17
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I blew one in my 98, but that thing had been badly neglected and abused before I got it. I'm fairly certain it was run for a while with no coolant in the system right before I bought it, as it had been in a front end collision. The previous owner was a guy I know who buys wrecked or neglected XJs off CL and either repairs them or parts them out, and from what I could tell he repaired this one. I've abused the hell out of every 4.0 I've ever owned EXCEPT that one, and none of them had issues. The one in my 98? It blew up fairly quickly after I got it... fortunately I live in the rust belt where drivetrain parts are cheap and clean unibodies are rare, so the new motor cost me $100 plus fluids and sundry parts I had to replace while I was in there - alternator, hoses, hoseclamps, gaskets, serpentine belt, etc.
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Oct 16, 2012 02:23
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rally posted:How many miles were on it out of curiosity? Also, that thing must have been pretty drat neglected. I feel like I never hear of a blown head gasket on a 4.0. It only has 77K miles on it actually.
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Oct 16, 2012 15:20
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FreeFunnelCake posted:It only has 77K miles on it actually. So it obviously hasn't proven itself capable of high mileage yet.
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Oct 16, 2012 16:18
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commissargribb posted:So it obviously hasn't proven itself capable of high mileage yet. I think it must be under driven to the point where it is having unique XJ issues. With an average of 3500 miles a year, there is probably a long stretch in there of sitting in one place rotting away with the same old fluids in there when they started it back up. Who knows what happened to that thing.
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Oct 16, 2012 16:32
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I have an 03 Rubicon and I was hoping that I could get some advice from AI on the issues I'm having with it. So my CD player has been working on and off for the last two years but the radio continued to work. No big deal though, but as of late the problem seems to have spread. Now sometimes the radio will randomly cut out but the radio is restored every time I restart the Jeep. Then a few days later, my check engine light starting turning on and off with it changing frequency every few days. It hasn't been on in a week or two but now my AC has started cutting in and out. Worse yet, if I turn it on to the defroster it smells like burning. Any ideas? If I need to move this to another thread let me know but I figured that this would be the best place since it's a jeep thread.
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Oct 16, 2012 17:50
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Hungry Joe posted:
Have you had a chance to pull a code from it? That's where I would start.
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Oct 16, 2012 19:06
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I'm looking at buying a '98 ZJ 5.9 Limited right now. The owner says that the 4WD currently isn't working because "Driveshaft front broke on the joint so I removed it." I've never done that kind of repair before; what would likely be necessary in terms of parts and possible labor cost if it's out of my league? He's asking 2k for the jeep, which is the same amount a different seller is asking for an '89 XJ Laredo (with 2" lift and winch.) Girlfriend would really prefer the ZJ for the creature comforts, but I'm tempted by the XJ. Input would be appreciated. e: Doing some reading, it looks like removing the front drive shaft from NV249 opens up a lot of concern for the viscous coupling getting completely hosed. If it's driven in 2WD only though, would this even be an issue? Tadhg fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Oct 16, 2012 |
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Oct 16, 2012 20:51
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commissargribb posted:Have you had a chance to pull a code from it? That's where I would start. No I haven't, do I just go to a mechanic for that(I'm car dumb but I wanna learn) I was wanting to drive about three hours out this weekend to see a concert, any advice on if you guys think this thing can wait til next week?
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Oct 16, 2012 21:04
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Hungry Joe posted:No I haven't, do I just go to a mechanic for that(I'm car dumb but I wanna learn) get an obd2 dongle like this: http://www.brainydeal.us/AGPtek%C2%..._source=froogle Download the software for your phone. And never worry what the check engine light actually means ever again. It can also tell you a lot of other cool things and let you reset the lamp as well.
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Oct 16, 2012 21:55
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commissargribb posted:get an obd2 dongle like this: Holy poo poo I had no idea this existed...and for $12, thank you.
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Oct 16, 2012 23:02
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Tadhg posted:I'm looking at buying a '98 ZJ 5.9 Limited right now. The owner says that the 4WD currently isn't working because "Driveshaft front broke on the joint so I removed it." I've never done that kind of repair before; what would likely be necessary in terms of parts and possible labor cost if it's out of my league? I'll trade you my XJ for the 5.9. 
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Oct 17, 2012 05:44
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Got a nice 3.5 inch suspension upgrade for my JKU. It went from this: to this:  It rides so much better. It is the AEV DS SC 3.5 inch suspension kit.
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Oct 17, 2012 15:27
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What's your next tire size gonna be? I haven't done anything since installing rubicon rails. I need to call the dealer and have them look at the rust and tell me it's due to my shorty antenna or off-roading.
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Oct 17, 2012 17:00
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35 inch x 12.5 inch. Im still researching on whether or not the stock rims there will work with the tires and clearance. Looking at the toyo open country M/T tires.
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Oct 17, 2012 17:17
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Do Not Fear Jazz posted:I'll trade you my XJ for the 5.9. The one with the sweet snorkel? I always wanted a car that could go through rivers better than the wagon from Oregon Trail. I'm actually asking the guy get the VC checked out along with a general inspection before I buy from him. If the VC is fine, then I'm going to buy it and try my hand at replacing the drive shaft. If I can get this ZJ working fine for my girlfriend to drive, then I'll be free to search out and work on a CJ7 for myself.
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Oct 17, 2012 20:51
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Tadhg posted:The one with the sweet snorkel? I always wanted a car that could go through rivers better than the wagon from Oregon Trail. Yes, or is this sarcasm?
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Oct 18, 2012 00:48
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Do Not Fear Jazz posted:Yes, or is this sarcasm? No insult meant whatsoever-- I think that the snorkel is awesome. One of my "I'm totally going to do this someday" auto projects is to beef up a Volkswagen Type 181 to try and make a modern Schwimmwagen (Type 166.) I really honestly have always wanted a car that can go in the water, and I never had thought of sealing up a Jeep and giving it a snorkel before. And if you were being serious about the offer of a trade, I had thought you were making a joke about my indecision (as in, I should choose the limited edition ZJ, not the 9 years older XJ.) If you're actually serious, let me see how things go-- I might be keeping this for us if I'm able to actually buy and repair the 4WD.
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Oct 18, 2012 01:34
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Oh, you're gonna love this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qr8eEWyKQHM
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Oct 18, 2012 01:43
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I love japanese babyjeeps.
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Oct 18, 2012 01:46
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Why is it jk instead of kj??
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Oct 18, 2012 04:49
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It's not KJ because the KJ was the Liberty - they ran out of *J acronyms that seemed cool, so they switched to *K ones. For instance, MK49 is the Compass, MK74 (iirc) is the Patriot (I might be wrong on this), WK and WK2 are the independent suspension Grand Cherokees, and XK is the Commander.Hungry Joe posted:I have an 03 Rubicon and I was hoping that I could get some advice from AI on the issues I'm having with it. If by "turning on and off with changing frequency" you mean it's flashing as you drive - stop driving it immediately. That's an indication of a severe misfire condition and can cause real drivetrain or exhaust damage quickly. If you mean it just turns on and off at random over the course of a few days... get a code reader and pull the codes, then go from there. Generally, the earlier codes in the list override the later codes - for instance you'll sometimes see a code for a MAP value out of range, then a few misfire codes and other stuff. What that really means is that the MAP is the real issue and the misfire codes are probably a result of the MAP sensor value being off and the computer putting too little or too much fuel in as a result. Similarly, O2 sensor codes before misfire codes and other stuff usually means the O2 sensor is going bad or has a wiring/power supply issue.
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Oct 18, 2012 04:54
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commissargribb posted:get an obd2 dongle like this: kastein posted:If by "turning on and off with changing frequency".... Thanks a lot for the advice guys, I appreciate it!
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Oct 18, 2012 12:09
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I'm looking at doing a rear disk swap on my 98 Cherokee and want someone to talk me into/out of going through with it. I'm looking at using this kit instead of a ZJ swap so that I don't have to use 15 year old hardware, but hadn't heard much about the company: http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Brakes-and-Steering/Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit.aspx?t_c=65&t_s=541&t_pt=10397&t_pn=G%2f296-2049-DB I've never pulled an axle or even disconnected a brake line, but I've heard that it isn't the hardest thing to do. Anything I need other than parking brake cables? It says that the stock steel wheels may rub (implying that they're bigger than the front calipers?) so am I correct in thinking that these stock non-steel wheels would be fine? Am I stupid for thinking this is a good idea, stupid like a fox, or some third thing? 
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Oct 18, 2012 14:41
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kastein posted:
oh yeah if it's FLASHING and you actually care about your vehicle (unlike my 96 Elantra Wagon that I simply drove through the flashing CEL) you'll stop driving.
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Oct 18, 2012 14:42
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Cat Hatter posted:I'm looking at doing a rear disk swap on my 98 Cherokee and want someone to talk me into/out of going through with it. I'm looking at using this kit instead of a ZJ swap so that I don't have to use 15 year old hardware, but hadn't heard much about the company: Five hundred?! the only parts you need from the JY for the ZJ method are 8 studs/nuts and the two backing plates if you like new parts, which I can understand. Plus JY parts mean you learn how to do the necessary axle/diff work on the junkyard car. parts for a ZJ swap: backing plates and all 8 studs and nuts to mount them, as well as the banjo bolt for each caliper (available at the parts store, but factory used is better than Help! new-in-box) new pads New discs new hardware kit for emergency brakes New shoes for e-brakes new calipers new hoses New caliper slide screws e-brake cables. I am running two right rear cables off a 95 to early 00s explorer but they are kinda long, Crown makes a kit for quite cheap that has proper length cables. That's all I can think of. Should run 300 or less, spend 15min grinding the insides of the backing plates out for clearance with a dremel or die grinder, then put the 200 saved into an SYE, the tire fund, most of an autolocker, or the beer account. Hell, I ran junkyard everything for mine (including rotors/pads, the donor I chose had such a recent brake job that the rotors were still shiny at the edges) and it lasted till something got stuck and the pads burned up. Cost me 70 bucks to do the whole swap. I don't know why they say it will rub some wheels, or what brake consumables it uses - the ZJ ones fit any factory wheel. Hell, that right there is worth it to me, knowing I can walk into any parts store in the country and buy brand new rotors, pads, calipers, hoses, etc for a late 90s grand cherokee and have them fit perfectly. kastein fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Oct 18, 2012 |
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Oct 18, 2012 15:01
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I had originally planned to do a ZJ swap but after adding parts up in my head I figured that it might be worth it to not do the job twice. I forgot to ask earlier if I would need new hard lines and/or a proportioning valve. I've heard that some guys have gotten away with using the factory valve while others say you need to replace it to get proper pedal feel. Personally, I could give a poo poo how the pedal feels (Cherokee pedals already seem to feel a bit crummy) just so long as the rears don't lock up prematurely under heavy braking.
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Oct 18, 2012 15:15
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you will need new hardlines on the axle, which means about ten bucks in preflared 3/16 steel lines from the parts store, you want US/SAE threads on the flare nuts. Iirc you want a 20" section for the left and a 36" for the right, but I may have this wrong so measure first. As for the prop valve, I have heard it both ways as well. I am running an MJ so I can't just do the ZJ prop valve swap like everyone else, so I am on a stock one still. It feels fairly ok but it's currently a bit screwy as I haven't deleted the rear load sensing valve yet, which makes it quite difficult to get a good bleed done even using the special procedure for MJs.
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Oct 18, 2012 15:27
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I hate you for making me start looking at craigslist again (google tells me that my local junkyard is staffed by crooked assholes). Any thoughts on a Magnaflow bolt-in catalytic converter? Mine is loud as hell and I'm close enough to Atlanta that I need to pass emissions. Should I get a new O2 sensor while I'm at it?
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Oct 18, 2012 15:49
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Any one had any problems with a seat belt stuck in place? It seems like the retractor is locked on the passenger side of my 2006 Wrangler, but I can't figure out how to get the top off to see what's going on in there. Prying on it got nowhere and I don't see any screws or anything.
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Oct 18, 2012 22:19
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Georgia Peach posted:Any one had any problems with a seat belt stuck in place? It seems like the retractor is locked on the passenger side of my 2006 Wrangler, but I can't figure out how to get the top off to see what's going on in there. Prying on it got nowhere and I don't see any screws or anything. All the time on my passenger seat. It comes and goes though. At one point in the summer it wouldn't work at all so all of my friends got used to not wearing seatbelts in my car then one day one of them tried it and it worked. Now it's working all the time. I took it as being old, dirty and rusty or all of the above. Anyways my parking break is pure poo poo now. I have to pull it ALL the way now to not have it roll back and in 1st just in case. I do park on a pretty steep slope though. Also my steering stabilizer is leaking hard. Looks like I've got a few things to tidy up. Anybody work on the parking break before? The steering stabilizer seems like a 5 min job. DixielandDelight fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Oct 19, 2012 |
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Oct 19, 2012 00:28
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