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Sockington posted:Pontiac Sunbird headlights switched left/right. Good eye, thanks. Though the use of that emoticon made me think you were joking. Or are you? Damnit internet!
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Oct 28, 2012 19:13
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BoostCreep posted:Good eye, thanks. Though the use of that emoticon made me think you were joking. Or are you? Damnit internet! I just saw the new posts and I was going to post the same thing.
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Oct 28, 2012 19:16
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The front end of that bricklin almost looks like that of a late 80s corolla.
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Oct 28, 2012 19:20
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BoostCreep posted:Good eye, thanks. Though the use of that emoticon made me think you were joking. Or are you? Damnit internet! I was joking in hopes some poor Bricklin owner didn't actually try to align a set of crosseyed headlights.
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Oct 28, 2012 19:33
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Couldn't possibly be these, could it? e: no echoplex fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Oct 28, 2012 |
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Oct 28, 2012 20:00
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:The front end of that bricklin almost looks like that of a late 80s corolla. It looks like a mini Delorean front end to me. Sockington posted:I was joking in hopes some poor Bricklin owner didn't actually try to align a set of crosseyed headlights. Ah, ok. If I go with something like this I'd keep the stock headlights and just use the Sunbird lights as dummy/parking lights. Though looking at that picture again, it does look like the lights are angled inwards a bit to correct for the switched positions.
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Oct 28, 2012 20:02
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Sockington posted:I was joking in hopes some poor Bricklin owner didn't actually try to align a set of crosseyed headlights. To own a Bricklin you need to be crazy and/or stupid, and to try to align crosseyed headlights you need to be crazy and/or stupid. I see no problem. 
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Oct 28, 2012 21:42
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BoostCreep posted:It looks like a mini Delorean front end to me. My first thought was Corrado. The lights aren't the right shape though. Any reason you have to use Sunbird (assuming that's what those are) lights? You may have better luck taking measurements and finding something that will fit out of a common car in a JY that you won't have to swap sides or turn upside down. Along the lines of a late '80s Pontiac 6000 or Cutlass Ciera.
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Oct 28, 2012 22:13
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Black88GTA posted:My first thought was Corrado. The lights aren't the right shape though. Nope, any lights would work. I don't even necessarily have to keep the same design as that suntan one. I just like how the sides line up with the front of the fenders. It gives it a nice clean look. The idea is just to make a bigger opening for an intercooler without having to cut holes in factory body panels while still making it look somewhat nice.
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Oct 28, 2012 22:38
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BoostCreep posted:Nope, any lights would work. I don't even necessarily have to keep the same design as that suntan one. I just like how the sides line up with the front of the fenders. It gives it a nice clean look.
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Oct 28, 2012 22:49
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The 90's cutlass supreme had long thin lamps. Might look cool.
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Oct 29, 2012 00:15
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Have classic Camaro hide-away headlights behind the grill. The normal pop-up headlights activate your ram-air setup for each one of your twin turbos.
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Oct 29, 2012 03:36
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BoostCreep posted:I just found a very cool front end modification that might allow me to use an intercooler without needing to cut holes anywhere. Plus it looks really nice. Its like the sportier Canadian cousin of the Aston Martin Lagonda.  Refreshed version ditched the popups for 6(!) Halogens  Edit: lol I've never seen a picture with the popups open before:  Didn't think it was possible to make that car any more awkward. Mike_P fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 04:06
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Man they missed a trick not making a "spyder" version.
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Oct 29, 2012 04:38
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Mike_P posted:Edit: lol I've never seen a picture with the popups open before: 
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Oct 29, 2012 05:06
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Sockington posted:Have classic Camaro hide-away headlights behind the grill. The normal pop-up headlights activate your ram-air setup for each one of your twin turbos. It's a good thing there isn't room for two turbos cause that would be amazing. Also your avatar threw me for a loop. I thought someone was randomly using one of your sexy pictures for an avatar until I saw it was you.
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Oct 29, 2012 07:25
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Just got a price quote for an iron block 5.3 changeover at $1,300. That comes with everything needed for the swap except the transmission. So that's an engine with around 50-60k miles, ECU, wiring harness, and all accessories minus the A/C compressor. I do want A/C though so I'd need to figure that bit out. My plan is to go up there and check it out in person on Saturday to see what kind of deal I can get. They don't have any T56 transmissions, but an auto will add an additional $750 on top of the $1,300. I feel like $2050 is a bit much. Am I off here? I know the engine has half the mileage of those $300 5.3 engines out there, but 2 grand for a used engine and auto tranny seems high. Wiring harnesses and ECUs are usually in the $400 range from what I've seen. I'd still rather look for a T56 if I can, but the lowest I'm seeing one around me is $2,200 and it has 118k miles on it. Still researching other transmission options. Also, here are my engine bay measurements. Width, frame rail to frame rail: 28.5" Width, top of shock towers: 34" Width, windshield washer bottle to brake master cylinder (inner most points at the top of the bay near the firewall): 28" Width, between stock engine mounts : 12" Length, firewall to radiator: 38" Length, cowl to radiator (engine would have to fit under the cowl lip): 35" Length, firewall to engine mount center: 15" Height, engine cradle crossmember to hood: 23" Height, top of engine mounts to hood: 18" Trans tunnel: Top of tunnel to cowl: 9" Trans tunnel opening at firewall: 16" wide, ~11" tall Width at top of tunnel: 11" Length, firewall to center of shifter location: 24" Hopefully I can find a suitable transmission that costs less than a used T56, can handle 500+ ft lbs, doesn't shift like a truck, and bolts up to the LS1.
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Oct 31, 2012 23:56
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BoostCreep posted:Hopefully I can find a suitable transmission that costs less than a used T56, can handle 500+ ft lbs, doesn't shift like a truck, and bolts up to the LS1. And then to ride off into the sunset on your gilded unicorn 
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Nov 1, 2012 00:04
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BoostCreep posted:costs less than a used T56, can handle 500+ ft lbs, doesn't shift like a truck, and bolts up to the LS1. Choose any 3.
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Nov 1, 2012 00:53
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$2k is too much IMHO. Can't you get a Z28 half cut for that with an LS1 and T56? I could be off, but a wrecked donor should go for less than their price. I think you should be buying the donor and doing the pull yourself. It will help immensely in the "where the gently caress does that go" department.
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Nov 1, 2012 00:58
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BoostCreep posted:Hopefully I can find a suitable transmission that costs less than a used T56, can handle 500+ ft lbs, doesn't shift like a truck, and bolts up to the LS1. For what your wanting... only requirement 1 and 3 will work together... your going to need some beefy rear end internals to handle 500 ft lbs. Have you looked to the Germans? I think ZF makes a manual transmission that would fit the first 2, but would require some modification. Edit: Never mind.. the input shaft is to short. It can be done though from looking around on the internet. But it is rated for 450 ft lbs. The S6-40 was used in the corvette.... So again, its a thought. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Nov 1, 2012 |
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Nov 1, 2012 01:09
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Dr 14 INCH DICK Md posted:And then to ride off into the sunset on your gilded unicorn A man can dream, ok? He can also buy cheaper transmissions and adapter plates. 6 speed 350z transmissions are in the $500 range and I'm seeing rumors of adapter plates on the internet, so we'll see.
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Nov 1, 2012 01:25
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Sockington posted:$2k is too much IMHO. Can't you get a Z28 half cut for that with an LS1 and T56? I could be off, but a wrecked donor should go for less than their price. I completely agree on the donor car, but prices are always crazy inflated where I live. Beat-to-poo poo Camaros and Firebirds with V6 engines and auto transmissions are selling in the 4k range. V8 models that actually run won't dip below 6k, and V8 models with manual transmissions are in the 8-10k range. Too rich for my blood. There just isn't a good donor vehicle with the engine or transmission that I'm looking for unfortunately, so I'm stuck with buying things piecemeal. The problem with junked or wrecked cars in California is that they don't go to junkyards unless they are 20 years old or so. The newest cars you'll find in junkyards are maybe late 90s to early 2000's, and those are usually beat up Hyundais that have already been picked clean. The more modern cars that get wrecked get bid on by auto dismantlers who then sell the parts to dealers and people like me for a premium. Of course there is a running '93 SC400 for $750 10 miles from me...
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Nov 1, 2012 02:45
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Mike_P posted:Its like the sportier Canadian cousin of the Aston Martin Lagonda. The Lagonda has always been my secret auto crush. It's so loving ugly and I love it.
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Nov 1, 2012 03:34
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Bucephalus posted:Choose any 3. Always sandbag on shifting like a truck. Why have all that torque in the first place?
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Nov 1, 2012 05:36
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I think I paid 400 for my complete 4.8 but 500-600 for a complete motor 4.8 or 5.3 and wire harness/ecu seems about average. But that is the cheap part, beware of the hidden costs of the swap they really add up quick. You will need an oilpan and dipstick from a car since the truck one is really deep. You will also more than likely a a car intake, TB, and accessories. And finally you will have to have the security disabled by a tuner or by hptuners and do it yourself. Your really should see about a parts car if you want ac and everything. But If you can get away with truck stuff I got an intake and crap you can have.
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Nov 1, 2012 12:00
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VikingSkull posted:The Lagonda has always been my secret auto crush. It's so loving ugly and I love it.
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Nov 1, 2012 13:52
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Holdbrooks posted:I think I paid 400 for my complete 4.8 but 500-600 for a complete motor 4.8 or 5.3 and wire harness/ecu seems about average. But that is the cheap part, beware of the hidden costs of the swap they really add up quick. You will need an oilpan and dipstick from a car since the truck one is really deep. You will also more than likely a a car intake, TB, and accessories. And finally you will have to have the security disabled by a tuner or by hptuners and do it yourself. Your really should see about a parts car if you want ac and everything. This is all fantastic advice, thank you. Where did you source your engine and everything if you don't mind me asking? It sounds like you spent $400 for what would cost me $1,300. That difference in price is a holset turbo, entire fuel system, and then some. Also I've looked for a parts/donor car and I'm coming up empty. Is there a secret to locating donor vehicles other than Craigslist? I knew about the oil pan and intake needing to be swapped to fit, but wasn't aware of the security issue. If you have any other tidbits like that I'm all ears.
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Nov 1, 2012 20:27
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I just won this on eBay.  It's a clutch and brake assembly from a 71-74 AMC Javelin. I guess I just made my manual transmission swap bed and now I have to sleep in it. Is that a correct metaphor? It's been a long week... There is a GTO T56 near me on car-part.com for $1650, which seems to be the cheapest one I can find. The next cheapest is $2,500 for an F-body trans. Apparently all I need to do is buy a shifter cup and shifter for an F-body to shorten the shifter location by a couple inches compared to the GTO location. Now if only I had some visual aids to help you understand... Boom!:  That little extra mount to the GTO transmission where the shifter is located adds 3 and a half inches to the length of the transmission, which is already 5 inches too long for my application to begin with. I'm hoping between pushing the engine an inch or so forward, cutting a bit of the fiberglass for the shifter to sit back a bit more, and possibly finding a shift lever that bends forward, I can get it all to play nice together. Now that I have the clutch pedal assembly on the way, I need to figure out the linkage. Since the T56 is hydraulic, I will most likely be drilling a hole in the firewall and finding a way to mount a master cylinder. This is all new territory for me and I'm pretty excited about learning how all this works. If anyone has suggestions I'm all ears. I'm holding off on buying an engine until I have the rest of the car prepped for it. I'm probably going to go with the 55k mile 5.3 LS with harness and ECU for $1,300 as it's the cheapest I've located so far. Two other places came in at $1,500 for the same thing. What can I say, SoCal is expensive. One of the first things I want to get figured out is the fuel system. I've decided on a plastic fuel cell for the e85. I measured the stock tank last weekend and came up with these measurements: Length (rear of car to front): 17" Width (Side to side): 32" Height: 14" I found this 16 gallon cell on Summit that looks like it will fit, assuming they switched the width and length. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-290108/overview/ Length: 25" Width: 17" Height: 9" I was getting ready to order it when I remembered the fuel filler neck on the Bricklin is behind the license plate. I have no experience with fuel cells, so can anyone school me on how fuel cells work as far as hooking up to filler necks? Do I need a special type of cell if it is filled at the back of the car vs. the side? Will they still automatically shut off at the fuel pump? Since the filler neck is at the back of the car, will fuel shoot up the neck and leak out on launches? Here's the gas cap behind the license plate and the seemingly bottomless pit it leads to:  
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Nov 16, 2012 19:27
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BoostCreep posted:
I have been looking for the same thing, and couldn't find one that filled through a factory filler. All the fuel cells have to fill at the top with that red thing, which will be inside the car. I was told to keep the factory tank. Fuel shutoff when filling is handled by the pump when fuel touches it. doesn't matter too much if its filling from the side or the back.
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Nov 16, 2012 20:35
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Maybe you should get an engine (dead one?) for mockup so none of these additions get in the way (like clutch master assembly).
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Nov 16, 2012 20:46
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BoostCreep posted:I just found a very cool front end modification that might allow me to use an intercooler without needing to cut holes anywhere. Plus it looks really nice. Those headloghts look like they're out of an 80s/90s Nissan sedan...
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Nov 17, 2012 02:07
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blindjoe posted:I have been looking for the same thing, and couldn't find one that filled through a factory filler. All the fuel cells have to fill at the top with that red thing, which will be inside the car. My factory tank has been sitting for 31 years with fuel in it. I'm going to assume the tank and everything associated with it are boned. I saw that POR15 has a gas tank restorer, but I don't think I want to modify the stock tank to be able to supply enough fuel for a turbo V8, and I still want to be able to put the car back to showroom stock if possible. Here's what the hatch floor looks like. Hopefully this little tunnel where the fuel filler neck runs will give me enough room to use a fuel cell.  Sockington posted:Maybe you should get an engine (dead one?) for mockup so none of these additions get in the way (like clutch master assembly). Yeah, I'm going to have to get the engine sooner than later I'm starting to realize. I just wanted to have it ready to run for warranty purposes without going through the process of getting it to run on a stand first.
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Nov 17, 2012 02:46
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Try calling some local performance shops and see if they have any scrap blocks they could sell you. They might even give you one once they know what you're doing.
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Nov 17, 2012 03:09
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BoostCreep posted:
I'm not sure about the fuel cell aspect of this, but my Nova was set up the same way with the filler behind the plate. It will definitely keep you on your toes. The pump will shut off when the fuel hits it, but by that time the fuel is already hauling rear end up that filler tube and will not hesitate to burp all over the pump handle, your hand, the license plate, your pants, etc. If you pay attention, you can hear the tube filling up and stop it in time, though.
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Nov 17, 2012 05:14
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VikingSkull posted:The Lagonda has always been my secret auto crush. It's so loving ugly and I love it. I don't care what anybody says, I'd rock the gently caress out of one of them in the estate/wagon version, even if it does look like a silly putty stretched version of a Volvo wagon.   I'm pretty drat excited to see how this weird Canadian plastic car ends up. It's strange enough as is, it'll be one hell of a conversation starter once you're done.
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Nov 17, 2012 05:30
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Boat posted:I don't care what anybody says, I'd rock the gently caress out of one of them in the estate/wagon version, even if it does look like a silly putty stretched version of a Volvo wagon. I don't know why I love that, but I do.
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Nov 17, 2012 05:54
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Boat posted:I don't care what anybody says, I'd rock the gently caress out of one of them in the estate/wagon version, even if it does look like a silly putty stretched version of a Volvo wagon. it looks like someone squashed a 1995 Cadillac Deville and used carpentry and bondo to stick a truck cap on the back of it. /end derail
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Nov 17, 2012 07:47
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Linedance posted:it looks like someone squashed a 1995 Cadillac Deville and used carpentry and bondo to stick a truck cap on the back of it. I think the Lagonda is an awesome car, and I've got to say that, well, there is a reason there is only one of these things.
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Nov 17, 2012 08:16
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I decided to tackle the acrylic door skin today. I figured I'd start with the broken door so if I screwed up it wouldn't really matter.  Totally professionally installed 70's era weatherproofing: duct tape.  This was the process. Pretty simple. Heat gun, putty knife, repeat.   You can see what's left of the window peaking out the door.  And separated! (this actually took about two hours of heating and prying.)   There is definitely rust, but it seems to be all surface rust and fixable. I'm placing an order for POR15 for the doors and the front part of the frame and engine cradle.   I'm holding the outer window channel piece that snapped off the door frame. This will need to be welded.  God, so much glass EVERYWHERE!  This is the rip in the fiberglass at the top of the door. It actually doesn't look nearly as bad from the inside. The fiberglass could be fixed, but the acrylic is the big issue.   One Bricklin window, in super condensed form. Whoever I get for Secret Santa is gonna LOVE me!  Crack from the inside.  Crack from the outside.  Crack from the side.  So this actually went very well. I'm going to strip the other door and then find the best way to get them media blasted. Then I need to weld the cracks, weld on reinforcing supports to the arches so they don't break again, and buy upgraded window channel hardware. There's a window for sale on ebay right now so hopefully I will win that and have it arrive soon. Then I have to buy the air door conversion for $1,300 and work on installing that. So the good thing is while the doors will be expensive and awkward to handle at times, at least it's all straightforward work.
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Nov 18, 2012 06:10
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