|
I think it would even work a lot better if they'd borrowed from the original 2011 design (and the 2008 refresh, for that matter) and grown the bumper cover instead. Making the grille grow bottom horns just looks stupid. The headlamp housings shrank enough I'm not sure that would look great, but it would have to be better than what they did.
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2013 20:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 14:23 |
|
|
mod sassinator posted:Check out that interior, perhaps the best I've seen in a Chrysler: mod sassinator posted:Oh yeah, and it has a diesel engine option in America! A 3 liter V6 diesel that makes ~240hp and ~420 lb/ft of torque while getting 21/30 mpg. This is the only thing that makes me wish I waited for a '14 model, but I doubt this engine will even be for sale in California if previous Jeep diesel models can set a precedent. The new headlights are really chintzy looking, but I do like the new taillights and gauges a lot.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2013 21:15
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:
I thought all diesels sold in the US were now 50 state compliant since they added all that DPF/pee-water injection stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2013 21:33
|
|
|
I finally replaced the rear shaft u-joints on my 2002 wrangler. It looked like the originals were still on with 140k miles, and they weren't even showing any play. This jeep needs more beatings I think. I plan on replacing the three u-joints on the front shaft soon as well, but first I need to deal with a leak somewhere related to the transfer case. If I have oil sprayed all over in an arc above the driveshaft where it meets the transfer case in the rear I can safely assume it's the output seal in the cone, right? Every time I work on my jeep I love it a little bit more  Unless the work involves installation or removal of the intake/exhaust manifolds.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2013 23:05
|
|
|
Depends on if it's oil or grease. If it's grease, the ujoint has been flinging it around, and it's probably just excess that squeezed out after the last time that ujoint got greased. If it's definitely trans fluid (well, transfer case fluid, but jeep transfer cases use ATF) it's the rear output seal on the transfer case.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2013 23:27
|
|
|
kastein posted:Depends on if it's oil or grease. If it's grease, the ujoint has been flinging it around, and it's probably just excess that squeezed out after the last time that ujoint got greased. I found that the transfer case was almost empty, I put my pinky into the fill hole and had to reach almost all the way to the bottom to hit fluid. I refilled it and checked the spray when I got home at it was definitely ATF. I did a fluid change in June I think, so it took from then til now to leak almost completely. I sure am glad I noticed before it was running totally dry  Thanks as always for your help!
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2013 23:58
|
|
|
Yikes, yeah, it's a drat good thing you caught it when you did. I've seen cases either stretch the chain (there goes 60-120 bucks and a few hours of time to replace it!) or even worse, grenade due to overheating with no lube. That's a week ruiner right there.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2013 00:31
|
|
|
Does there exist a master spring rate list for JK Wranglers that includes both factory, aftermarket data (Linear and Progressive)? I've checked all the usual wrangler forums, however wasn't able to find a nice big master listing. If there isn't one then I know what I'll be doing with my spare time.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2013 04:07
|
|
|
Is there a tool similar to CAPS/ASA for a Jeep? CAPS/ASA being a parts lookup tool.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 03:47
|
|
|
thvwlshvscpd posted:Is there a tool similar to CAPS/ASA for a Jeep? CAPS/ASA being a parts lookup tool. kastein. Fairly user friendly but a bit odd to interface.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 03:52
|
|
|
When it quits raining here I am going to try and find a leak in my 99 XJ. My driver side floor is soaked. I thought I had it fixed when I replaced the door gasket, but I was wrong. I could see water on the hood release catch. Maybe it is the windshield gasket. Any ideas on how to test?
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 02:46
|
|
|
thvwlshvscpd posted:When it quits raining here I am going to try and find a leak in my 99 XJ. My driver side floor is soaked. I thought I had it fixed when I replaced the door gasket, but I was wrong. I could see water on the hood release catch. Maybe it is the windshield gasket. Any ideas on how to test? Friend with hose, you inside watching.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 03:32
|
|
|
I hacked off the ends of my bumper and added a light bar - I didn't like how it looked without the bar but I like it now. The lights are going on tonight, but I'm afraid the ones I have are going to be too big and obstruct the headlights a little. I'm having fun with all of these little projects.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 17:16
|
|
|
Almost tagged a deer since the OE JK headlights are utter trash. Time to save up for the new truck-lite LEDs.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 18:51
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Friend with hose, you inside watching. This works great. Maybe blow a light coating of baby powder all along the seal first to make spotting it easier. If it was passenger side, I would guess the HVAC airbox intake seal where it goes through the firewall, but being on the driver side I would guess a windshield adhesive leak or a door leak. If you look up along the edge of the door, can you see light between the door and the gasket? If you can, you can either adjust the door (if the rest of the panels line up perfectly, this isn't something I'd recommend) or open the door, roll the window down, put your knee on the arm rest and lightly yank the bowed-out section of the window frame toward you. Takes maybe 30 seconds and seals most XJ upper-door-frame gasket leaks. If you do it at a stop light, make sure to check your rearview right after doing this, I've gotten some pretty funny reactions. e: as far as parts catalog lookups and such, check xjjeeps.com for a full set of factory parts catalogs. If you need help looking stuff up, drop me a line or post up here, most parts are in fairly well organized tables but some are in pretty illogical sections and are hard to find.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 20:12
|
|
|
kastein posted:This works great. Maybe blow a light coating of baby powder all along the seal first to make spotting it easier. When I replaced the door gaskets I used the TeamCherokee gaskets that are not a direct fit. I did have to adjust the door striket out as the gasket significantly thicker. The door gasket appeared to be dry. The passenger side is totally dry. When I replaced the evaporator, I replaced the gaskets where the a/c lines enter the cab and around the blower motor. I will definitely use baby powder when I try hosing the door down with water. I'm almost wondering if there is a drain in the cowl on the driver side or something since I could see the water on the hood latch. When I get a chance to try this, I will post back.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 23:12
|
|
|
My 01 XJ finally hit 120k miles today. Is there any serious maintenance that I should look at doing to it? Anything I should look for in particular?
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2013 17:53
|
|
|
HexDog posted:My 01 XJ finally hit 120k miles today. Is there any serious maintenance that I should look at doing to it? Anything I should look for in particular? I bought my 01 XJ at 120k and then drove it to 147k in two years with nothing other than oil changes. I did notice that the coolant was a bit brown, so I flushed the system around 125k. I would check all your fluids to make sure they look and smell ok and drive on.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2013 18:01
|
|
|
Maybe flush the brake system if no one has done it before, otherwise check the fluids, serpentine belt, and suspension bushings/bearings/etc and replace anything that seems out of line. none of that is really 120k service specific, just general stuff many people forget until things are in a bad way.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2013 18:04
|
|
|
Any one have a link to a good budget DOT approved (or otherwise not blinged out and blinding) 5x7 h4 lighting conversion for an XJ? Finally tired of the stock lights and I have a Bosch h4 conversion in my miata that kicks the XJ's rear end and is DOT, but of course can't find any similar deals in 5x7. The truck-lite look nice but way too close in price to the total value of an XJ.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2013 19:47
|
|
|
Try searching for 200mm h4's.. You'll get a whole bunch of em. http://www.amazon.com/AutoPal-H6054-200mm-Headlights-Non-Sealed/dp/B006WCOG5A I have the E code version of the above on my XJ and love em. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jan 20, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2013 21:03
|
|
|
Be sure to upgrade the harness, too. That's the real weak point of the lighting system.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2013 22:45
|
|
|
I've been trying to replace the coolant temp sender on my 86, but I can't find anything that allows me to take it off. As seen here:  I can't fit a socket around it, and due to some metal lines ran right next to it, I can't fit a wrench or crow's foot in there. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2013 00:08
|
|
|
You probably need a sensor socket, they have a cutout to leave room for the wiring. Very common for lambda sensors.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2013 00:29
|
|
|
No need for that, the connector is a 1 pin bullet type, just pull the wire straight up away from the sensor and it'll slide right off. unbolt your MAP (the sensor with the 3 pin green connector right in your way) sensor and its bracket from the firewall, move them out of the way, and it should be a straight shot with a socket. May need a deep well, 6 point preferred, I forget what exact size but the threads are 1/8" NPT so it is probably an SAE size, I would have to guess 3/8".
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2013 00:31
|
|
|
Veeb0rg posted:Try searching for 200mm h4's.. You'll get a whole bunch of em. Would the round equivalent work for a TJ? I have the higher end sealed beam sylvanias in mine currently but find the brightness lacking even on dimly lit back roads. I just don't know which way to go to get better night illumination without being one of THOSE guys that blast you with what seems to be high beams...
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2013 00:50
|
|
|
A cyclist ran a red and tboned my jeep today. Now I have this ugly gouge in the door. The cyclist is unfortunately just fine.  
ethanol fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jan 21, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2013 01:05
|
|
|
Sharp_angus posted:Would the round equivalent work for a TJ? I have the higher end sealed beam sylvanias in mine currently but find the brightness lacking even on dimly lit back roads. I just don't know which way to go to get better night illumination without being one of THOSE guys that blast you with what seems to be high beams... There is a huge thread on jeepforum in the JK section called "headlight shootout" or something similar. After reading the 40 or so pages of actual scientific testing I'll be getting the new Truck-Lite LED headlights when my tax return comes in. The JK headlights really are terrible. They go over a lot of options in that thread. Edit: These are the lights in question. There's a better price out there but I don't have it bookmarked on this computer. Godholio fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jan 21, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2013 01:14
|
|
|
Went to a NAXJA meetup Saturday, then went wheeling, then to my local club's christmas party. We always have it in January because that way no one has schedule conflicts. I drove my POS red XJ DD there because the MJ is a cop magnet and was on 3 wheels waiting for a new wheel bearing anyways. Wheeled it a bit, beat it like it deserved it (it does), drove it home. Here's a friend's rare factory 5 speed 1994 ZJ with custom front/rear longarms he built, geared dana 44s swapped in, etc: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkCZEfeYNTI
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2013 01:39
|
|
|
kastein posted:No need for that, the connector is a 1 pin bullet type, just pull the wire straight up away from the sensor and it'll slide right off. I have a straight shot with the socket down at the sensor, but there's not enough room to fit the socket around the sensor. The walls of the socket don't allow it to fit over the sensor. I've removed the wire already. My replacement part is 1/2", but the part there seems to be bigger. The thread size of the replacement is the 1/8th though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2013 01:56
|
|
|
Harmburger posted:there's not enough room to fit the socket around the sensor. The walls of the socket don't allow it to fit over the sensor.. $1 Autozone socket + grinder = thinwall socket.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2013 04:02
|
|
|
So I have a 92 Cherokee Laredo, and my instrument lights just went out, and apparently so did my running lights. Brake lights still work, headlights, dome lights, turn signals, etc. All work but not the dash/running lights. I'm guessing it's either a fuse or maybe the light switch? Anyone had this problem before?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 04:19
|
|
|
kastein posted:Went to a NAXJA meetup Saturday, then went wheeling, then to my local club's christmas party. We always have it in January because that way no one has schedule conflicts. Holy poo poo does he not know what he's doing? Also is that Rausch?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 16:45
|
|
|
No, he is a pretty decent wheeler, that rock is way steeper than it looks and going from slushy snow/mud to a rock doesn't do much for traction. Also, no front locker... That is in a friends backyard in northwestern rhode island.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 16:56
|
|
|
kastein posted:No, he is a pretty decent wheeler, that rock is way steeper than it looks and going from slushy snow/mud to a rock doesn't do much for traction. Also, no front locker... Ah ok. I was watching it at work so no sound to tell what he's actually doing. Plate looked like a NJ one on this crappy screen.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 16:59
|
|
|
I think my clutch is going out. In stop and go when I let the clutch out and then push it back in the front of the jeep starts jumping around and clunking. If I keep the clutch almost all the way in and rev harder it will take off smoothly. It shifts fine once I'm going, and when I'm taking off normally from a stop it's mostly fine, since I'm steadily accelerating through first and then into second. It only seems to act up when I take off in first and then try and cruise along with the clutch most of the way out before stopping again. Does that sound like a clutch slipping and/or going out? If so, can anyone recommend a good clutch kit for a 2002 4.0 wrangler? Rockauto has Valeo for $135.79, ACDELCO for $129.79, and then a couple of options for more than twice that price. e: I started to notice this problem after the engine was replaced. When I would be reversing to parralel park it would start shuttering violently - could this be anything to do with a new engine install? Maybe there's some loose bolts? Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Jan 22, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 17:56
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:I think my clutch is going out. In stop and go when I let the clutch out and then push it back in the front of the jeep starts jumping around and clunking. If I keep the clutch almost all the way in and rev harder it will take off smoothly. It shifts fine once I'm going, and when I'm taking off normally from a stop it's mostly fine, since I'm steadily accelerating through first and then into second. It only seems to act up when I take off in first and then try and cruise along with the clutch most of the way out before stopping again. Does that sound like a clutch slipping and/or going out? If so, can anyone recommend a good clutch kit for a 2002 4.0 wrangler? Rockauto has Valeo for $135.79, ACDELCO for $129.79, and then a couple of options for more than twice that price. Lots of mounts that could be worn enough to allow the entire drivetrain to pogo, the flywheel probably wasn't machined properly, etc. The engine has two mounts, the transmission bolts to the skid plate/crossmember, I think there may be another place the transmission mounts to, but my memory is a bit blurry, it's been a year and a half since I did mine. Also, get the OEM replacement clutch from Luk, they make the clutches that came in them from the factory: dialaclutch.com.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 19:55
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Lots of mounts that could be worn enough to allow the entire drivetrain to pogo, the flywheel probably wasn't machined properly, etc. The engine has two mounts, the transmission bolts to the skid plate/crossmember, I think there may be another place the transmission mounts to, but my memory is a bit blurry, it's been a year and a half since I did mine. Also, get the OEM replacement clutch from Luk, they make the clutches that came in them from the factory: dialaclutch.com. Thanks for this - I'll check out the engine mounts, but wouldn't I feel lovely mounts more often than not? If I do the clutch is there anything that should be done in addition while the tranny is out? Looks like the LuK clutch can be had for ~$130 on amazon. Should I get a new flywheel?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 21:50
|
|
|
Does the shift lever wobble all over in synch with the shaking from the drivetrain? If it does, that points toward it being a mount issue. I accidentally effectively hardmounted my transmission when I put in the new transmission crossmember I welded up (didn't clearance one area enough, so the trans housing ended up securely clamped against it, bypassing the bushing entirely) and I was shocked by how much less the shifter wobbled around with throttle modulation. Almost to the point of keeping it that way and living with the increased vibration in fact.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 22:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 14:23 |
|
|
Rough Country didn't send me my upper sway bar link mounts. Contacted them, getting them shipped 2 day for free, still not really happy about this, but at least they made it right.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 22:18
|
|