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anyone have any complaints with using the Tamiya spray cans vs airbrush? I don't have a ton of space or coin to throw down on a good kit, but cans are cheap and I don't have too many models I really want to paint. I figure it'll be the same procedure though.. hot soap and water all the parts>snap fit some stuff> prime > base> accent> wash / line > clear coat ?
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Mar 6, 2013 22:54
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Do you need to rinse the parts before basecoating them? I always thought base coat was an alternative to rinsing. Seems to work fine for me.
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Mar 6, 2013 22:56
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slightpirate posted:anyone have any complaints with using the Tamiya spray cans vs airbrush? I don't have a ton of space or coin to throw down on a good kit, but cans are cheap and I don't have too many models I really want to paint. It's the same idea, though you don't get the same level of control from a rattlecan that you will with an airbrush. Spray cans you will want to have sitting in a bowl of hot water before you start and while you're not using them (don't have to totally submerge, a couple of inches deep is enough) so they don't freeze up on you while you're working. If you're running a lot of paint out of them you may have to stop and let them warm back up after a few minutes of heavy spray.
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Mar 6, 2013 22:59
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The purpose of washing the parts with soap before painting is to get off the substances left on them from the injection molding process. If you paint over the oils you have the possibility of your paint not adhering to the part.
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Mar 7, 2013 07:22
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Picked up MG Nu ver Ka. and RG Zeta and an action base. wooo tiny parts!
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Mar 7, 2013 23:42
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Xy Hapu posted:They must have decided the rouge design was too good for AGE standards and overcompensated spectacularly. Ok, you seem to be some sort of marker king so I have a question for you: Are you lining onto bare plastic, or paint? If so, which kind of paint? I recently built an Evangelion model, and went to an art supply shop to buy a .05mm tip Staedtler Pigment Liner. It never made any promises to stick to ABS plastic, and of course it doesn't stick at all. It's like it just never dries. I assumed after a week leaving it alone the ink would stain the plastic, but it still rubs right off at the slightest touch. Is it Staedtler as a brand, or is this common with any panel line marker? So my next plan was to get some affordable Acrylics, paint flat base layers, and then do my lines. After a test today, it seems the ink from the pen won't stick to acrylic either. The reason I decided on Acrylics is because there is a pathetic selection of enamel model paints in downtown Toronto (How is this even possible?!) and I didn't like the idea of solvents venting in my basement apartment. Polymer based Acrylics were affordable enough to take a chance on, so I did. Do you use surgical gloves when you're doing panel lines so your ink doesn't rub off on your fingers? I have some Acrylic matte finish as well. Perhaps the workflow should be PAINT> LINE (CAREFULLY)> MATTE So far I've decided to brush the paint on, and not go the airbrush/spraycan route. I've never been good at controlling spraypaint, and investing in an airbrush to paint a $40 model seems silly to me. Would an Acrylic thinner help me get rid of the stroke lines from my brushes? I tried thinning with water, but it doesn't evenly distribute over a surface. I'd just like a way to panel line, and then have the lines stand up to the model being manhandled. Since I'm really amateur at this I also like the simplicity of using a fine tipped marker/pen. I'm using it as a drawing aid, and it gets re-posed a lot. Are there any tips you can give to steady your hand as well? Sometimes I can hold perfectly still, and other times I wobble all over the place. Any breathing tricks, or a shot of rum to cool nerves or anything? bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Mar 8, 2013 |
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Mar 7, 2013 23:53
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slightpirate posted:Picked up MG Nu ver Ka. and RG Zeta and an action base. wooo tiny parts! Still have a month to go before I can start building my Nu ver ka. Although by that point i'm gonna have two Tallgeeses, a Full Armor Unicorn, and a Sinanju Stein to contend with, and I still have Turn A and GP03 that I bought from last year.
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Mar 8, 2013 00:07
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http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/mg-1100-msn-06s-sinanju-stein-custom.html I'm drooling over that blue that just pops out. It's so clean and awesome.
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Mar 8, 2013 03:05
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ACanofPepsi posted:I have some Acrylic matte finish as well. Perhaps the workflow should be PAINT> LINE (CAREFULLY)> MATTE The order of operations for those of us who paint is generally: prime->paint->gloss clear coat->decals->gloss clear coat->line->matte clear coat. I'm assuming for markers it's similar to washes where you want a glossy surface for the lining to work well, but it's probably not as big a deal. Regardless you should clear coat between color and lining so you have a buffer if you gently caress up lining somewhere.
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Mar 8, 2013 03:14
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Faltion posted:The order of operations for those of us who paint is generally: prime->paint->gloss clear coat->decals->gloss clear coat->line->matte clear coat. Yes, you're using ink (or paint thinned to an ink-like consistency) so you get similar wicking if you line on matte finish.
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Mar 8, 2013 03:16
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ACanofPepsi posted:marker stuff Yeah I just panel line on bare plastic; sounds like the problem is the type of pen you're using, try sakura microns or copic multiliners, the inks in both dry fairly quickly on both ABS and PS, though for the first few seconds it'll still smudge. It's durable enough to play with regularly, you'll probably wear out the joints on the kit before you rub off the lines. When I painted I used rattlecans and panel lined using thinned acrylics. No gloves, I just wash my hands before handling the parts in case grease or whatever gets on them. I haven't really had a smudging issue with the pens I use, just be patient and let parts sit for a few minutes after lining before handling them again. Hobby acrylics still use nasty solvents so I don't think thinning with water would work well, I'd try the acrylic thinner. Sounds like for your purposes you just need a pen that's better suited though, no need to paint. A lot of solvents weaken ABS too, Bandai is starting to discontinue use of ABS on their kits partly for that reason. For steady hands all I can really say is to rest your arms on something to steady them. I usually put my wrists on the edge of my desk when lining. Most of the time it doesn't matter if you do a lovely job lining though, just let it dry and give the part a swipe with a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol to erase any errors. You can crank out kits pretty drat fast this way. You can also rub off the lines with a wood toothpick or pencil eraser. This is less true if you ink on top of paint, often the ink and any errors will stain the paint whereas plain plastic almost never stains. Inking on plastic is extremely forgiving!
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Mar 8, 2013 23:22
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Just assembled the second HG ZZ Gundam with the help of two friends (because what better kit to build with company?  ), and I'm kind of disappointed. I was hoping we could each build one of the separate components, then fuse them together, but the instructions just told us how to assemble the mobile suit form. And the core fighter couldn't transform too.  As for the kit itself, uh... well it was a pretty smooth build (though the arms are kind of loose) but I don't see why you would include two beam sabers if you don't give the ZZ a hand to actually hold one. 
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Mar 9, 2013 07:22
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BlitzBlast posted:Just assembled the second HG ZZ Gundam with the help of two friends (because what better kit to build with company? HGs don't have the kind of parts separation you were hoping for. The MG probably would have worked for you, though. If you want to preview the instructions for a kit, http://www.dalong.net/ usually has them scanned in.
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Mar 9, 2013 18:34
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MG ZZ's transformation It is an incredibly, incredibly old kit though. Expect the unexpected.
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Mar 9, 2013 20:25
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 THE (early) UNIVERSAL CENTURY WANTS TO SHOOT YOU  Also, just for fun post the most ridiculously armed to the teeth model kit you have. EDIT: V Well yeah, but pictures are always nice to take/look at. Not everyone has those kits! BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Mar 10, 2013 |
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Mar 10, 2013 08:36
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pretty much any MS from seed has 6 times more weapons
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Mar 10, 2013 08:39
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Ughhh, Hobbywave is blueballing me. I put my order in on Thursday at 1pm PST, and nothing has shipped or anything. All payments have gone through. I'm bothered.
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Mar 10, 2013 17:59
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Fauxtool posted:pretty much any MS from seed has 6 times more weapons Some don't have quite the number but definitely try to over-compensate...  aka this sword is used to cut SHIPS in half. Alternatively I would just post the Freedom or Destiny in full burst poses but I haven't built them yet sooo
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Mar 10, 2013 18:19
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This isn't necessarily directed at you, it's just something I see a lot: Some fun tips to make your models look more dynamic! 1) Make sure the feet aren't parallel. When a person stands up, their feet naturally splay out in opposing directions. When the feet are parallel, it appears more stiff and wooden. Only pose them with parallel feet if they're standing in formation or are docked. The best way to do this is to manipulate the joints where the hips meet the pelvis. 2) Have them look/aim off to the side. Humanoid robots have necks and waists, use them! It allows them to have a smaller profile, and cover more of their body with a shield, if they have one. Just like with the feet, they only need to be facing straight forward when they're not really being used. It also helps to bend the elbows in a natural way. 3) Idle hands 4) Try and imagine how the weight is distributed. Yeah, robots are big and strong and metal, but imagine if it were you. Would you have to brace yourself if you were holding a big gun in front of you? Where would you put your feet? Would you put more weight on one of your legs than the other?
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Mar 10, 2013 18:24
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Oblique Angle posted:Some don't have quite the number but definitely try to over-compensate... You know, I have to hand it to the mg designers, I really wasn't a big fan of the destiny or the impulse when they were animated, but the new proportions and style they used for the mg versions won me over. I'll likely pick them up sooner or later.
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Mar 10, 2013 20:10
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Silentman0 posted:This isn't necessarily directed at you, it's just something I see a lot: I like this post. I think I'll add it to the OP. With your permission, of course.
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Mar 11, 2013 05:15
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Why would I say no?
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Mar 11, 2013 05:29
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Silentman0 posted:Why would I say no? Awesome. By the way, BlitzBlast, if you're looking for more ridiculously armed robots, I know I personally enjoy this particular fellow.  (There's a kind of irony to the fact that the Scopedog kit in the back isn't painted despite the fact that the included Vanilla figure has an airbrush molded onto his hand.) Mecha Gojira fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Mar 11, 2013 |
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Mar 11, 2013 05:50
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   Posing owns. I think all of my models have paid for themselves in the many autistic hours I've spent loving with them.
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Mar 11, 2013 07:31
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Mecha Gojira posted:By the way, BlitzBlast, if you're looking for more ridiculously armed robots, I know I personally enjoy this particular fellow.  I've kind of got my eye on the V gundams. I imagine I'd need to buy that weapons pack I've seen floating around first, but it looks hilarious. EDIT: I guess the Strike Freedom or the Full Armor Unicorn are also options, but I think both of them look super ugly so  .
BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Mar 11, 2013 |
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Mar 11, 2013 08:08
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BlitzBlast posted:
That's a surprisingly good-looking V2. There's no MG of it, is there? Does anyone happen to know which kit that is?
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Mar 11, 2013 10:17
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My most armed Gundam is the MG Exia right now, but I have it displayed as hobo-exia so  I am really pumped about the unavoidable HGUC FA Unicorn [Destroy] though.
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Mar 11, 2013 10:39
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Son Ryo posted:That's a surprisingly good-looking V2. There's no MG of it, is there? Does anyone happen to know which kit that is? Both those are probably the recent Robot Damashii figures.
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Mar 11, 2013 12:40
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Midjack posted:Both those are probably the recent Robot Damashii figures. Nah, that doesn't seem right, because I have the V2 Assault Buster RD figure. Either way, though, there must've been some extensive modding, painting, and detail work ontop of it.
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Mar 11, 2013 17:50
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Thanks for the paneling advice. I'm going to look into those other marker brands. I broke down and got an Armored Core kit from the shop near me, and holy crap is it ever complicated. The pieces are so detailed. I think this one will stay unpainted since so many interlocking pieces are different colours and it already looks great. The guy at the shop listened to my panel woes and told me some guy he knows uses mechanical pencils to panel line lighter plastics. Sounded easy enough so I gave it a try and was really impressed with the results. You sharpen the tip a bit with sand paper, fill the line, then use eraser or your finger to remove the excess. I've found just rubbing it away with my finger works and leaves a bit of a gradient making it look "dirty", like a lazy cleaner didn't get into the corners. I posted 2 pictures of the legs, one has the panels filled with pencil, the other is bare plastic.   I'm going to try this technique on a gun this weekend and see how the pencil holds up to a matte coat. I bought a few kits from MidJack after seeing his obsession closet, can't wait to get started on my 2nd AC model. EDIT: Wrong Neighbourhood, motherfucker.  Eva Units holding a 2 story tall Desert Eagle gangsta style will never get old to me. If you're having trouble getting Eva models to balance perfectly I noticed that the Perfect Grade versions come with a bendable wire umbilical cable. If you take the rubber straw version that comes with the HG version and run a pipe cleaner up the center you can now use the cable as a 3rd leg to help balance. You can see the metal wire coming out of my cable at the end there where it coils. With the cable now assisting balance you can pull off some really exaggerated poses. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Mar 12, 2013 |
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Mar 11, 2013 20:32
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That's Gerbil's V2, it's the 1/100 nograde and he did an absolutely incredible amount of work to get it looking like that. It has had a LOT of work.
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Mar 12, 2013 17:53
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Thanks Midjack!! Everything arrived in great shape. 
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Mar 14, 2013 22:23
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Got a HG 00 Gundam as a gift, and it's possibly the most kit I've seen so far; the v-fin isn't even colored, I had to put on a sticker. There were also no redundant parts whatsoever (aside from one PC part), a pretty significant change from the Exia Repair II's ridiculous amount of spare parts. I'm really not sure what to think about 00 HGs. There's such a huge quality difference between the two I've gotten.
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Mar 15, 2013 06:35
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The only HG I own is the 00 [Q]ANT, which is of fantastic quality. I bought it as a set with the MG since I really loving love the qant, and the MG turned out to be quite disappointing!
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Mar 15, 2013 13:48
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So, I got SRC Big Volfogg today and I can't figure out how to turn his legs. It doesn't seem like there are ball joints in them at all. e: Okay, I kind of can move his legs but trying to make him cross his arms like on the box is hell. Still a great figure though. Zeether fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Mar 17, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 20:00
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Zeether posted:e: Okay, I kind of can move his legs but trying to make him cross his arms like on the box is hell. Still a great figure though. Yeah it takes some fiddling of the hands, and having his forearms position correctly buuut... with the right perspective, you can have him doing it on your shelf 
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Mar 18, 2013 01:53
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Another thing to make cool poses: generally your shoulders and hips go in opposite directions. If your left leg is forwards then your right shoulder will be forward too. Just think of how you walk or stretch to reach things.
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Mar 19, 2013 23:03
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MG Double Bullet has been announced.  Try to contain your excitement please! I never really liked the DB but I think some people did so congratulations to them, you can finally own it in Master Grade form! If it came with two gigantic beam sabre parts though, that'd be pretty swell.
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Mar 21, 2013 19:37
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I've been wanting an MG Double Bullet for ages. So pleased they're finally making one. It better have massive beam effect parts for the shoulders.
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Mar 21, 2013 21:46
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It's one of the better Gundams in AGE so I mean at least they're grabbing the designs that can be saved I guess. 
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Mar 21, 2013 23:06
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