|
Marshmallow Blue posted:Jo3sh and others interested Ill Post my recipes and to brew ideas later, I'm at work and its gonna be hell of a formatting job. No need to rush or anything, it's not like I have a burning, life-or-death need to see your recipes RIGHT NOW or something - just as you have time and inclination. Tying this into the brew club discussion we had the other day - one of the good things about a club is to see and talk about how and why other brewers do things the way they do. During the demo on Saturday, I got a lot of questions about "why do you do it that way and not this way?" If we think of this as a brewing club we all belong to, it seems like the more info we all share, the more we all have the opportunity to learn from.
|
# ? Mar 11, 2013 21:34 |
|
|
# ? May 17, 2024 04:50 |
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:Eh, somewhat regularly. Ingredients are google-able (ex. fermaid K info here), but it's a tricky question to answer if you want proportions. Have a look at this thread and this thread on Gotmead. I'm no expert, but the main thing seems to be maintaining an appropriate nitrogen level across the growth phase, which is gonna rely on something organic (as in chemistry, not health food) in addition to plain diammonium phosphate. Boiled yeast hulls are something you probably can have on hand by virtue of baking, but relying too heavily on that can give flavor issues. Food grade urea is another organic source that my local brew shop uses in their blend, but that's not exactly something I'd expect to find in a pantry.
|
# ? Mar 11, 2013 22:46 |
|
I used a Wyeast Smack Pack for the first time yesterday, and I think the pack was dead. I smacked it and waited three hours, and I thought it had bulged a little bit but it's been a day with no activity. I then went online and checked, and sure enough the video shows the drat thing nearly exploding when it's bulked up. I'm assuming that dumping a batch of dead yeast into my beer won't be a big deal, and that after three days it should still be okay when I add the new pack in, but am I missing anything?
|
# ? Mar 11, 2013 23:23 |
|
Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I used a Wyeast Smack Pack for the first time yesterday, and I think the pack was dead. I smacked it and waited three hours, and I thought it had bulged a little bit but it's been a day with no activity. I then went online and checked, and sure enough the video shows the drat thing nearly exploding when it's bulked up. I'm assuming that dumping a batch of dead yeast into my beer won't be a big deal, and that after three days it should still be okay when I add the new pack in, but am I missing anything? What's the expiration date and how was it handled?
|
# ? Mar 11, 2013 23:25 |
|
Angry Grimace posted:What's the expiration date and how was it handled? The manufacture date was February 2013. It was shipped to me (and I could tell the packet inside was still solid), and I immediately put it in the fridge. 3 days later I took it out, smacked it, waited 3 hours at 70F as per the instructions, and then I dumped it. In retrospect it looks like it hadn't bulked up at all.
|
# ? Mar 11, 2013 23:28 |
|
I've pitched smack packs that did not inflate and had no issues whatsoever. You will probably be fine, especially since the yeast is less than a month old.
|
# ? Mar 11, 2013 23:32 |
|
Are you totally certain the nutrient packet ruptured when you smacked it? I've had trouble once or twice getting it to actually bust open and wake up the yeast.
|
# ? Mar 11, 2013 23:37 |
|
Docjowles posted:Are you totally certain the nutrient packet ruptured when you smacked it? I've had trouble once or twice getting it to actually bust open and wake up the yeast. I checked after I poured and didn't notice anything. I am fairly confident that I did it right.
|
# ? Mar 11, 2013 23:42 |
|
This might be useful:Wyeast FAQ posted:2. Can I use an Activator package without activating it and waiting for it to swell?
|
# ? Mar 11, 2013 23:59 |
|
Beer4TheBeerGod posted:The manufacture date was February 2013. It was shipped to me (and I could tell the packet inside was still solid), and I immediately put it in the fridge. 3 days later I took it out, smacked it, waited 3 hours at 70F as per the instructions, and then I dumped it. In retrospect it looks like it hadn't bulked up at all. Its not hot enough for shipping to have made a huge difference. Since its no old, I'm sure its fine. Pitch it and don't worry.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 00:38 |
|
If you don't have some dry yeast on hand, it's always a nice thing to have sitting in your fridge just in case the worst happens. But as everyone else said most likely you'll be just fine without any.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 01:23 |
|
Oh I already pitched it. I'm just impatient because it's a Belgian Tripel that looks super tasty. Can't wait to see what Wyeast 3787 does to an OG of 1.079. EDIT: I just read the description and maybe I should put in that blowoff tube...
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 01:28 |
|
Alright folks, I've done what I can to put my recipe list together. Here's my untested or in progress recipes. Goons should brew and report at their own risk quote:Caramel apple pie -CAP- Alright those are those. Here are my Tested and Finished Recipes quote:Chaucers clone So there you have it goons. I have a few more recipes I'm not willing to share at the moment but this is the bulk of them for sure. If you have any questions just let me know or send me a PM on GotMead (same user ID)(I don't have PM privileges on SA)
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 02:03 |
|
Marshmallow Blue posted:Alright folks, I've done what I can to put my recipe list together. Sweet baby american Jesus those look good.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 02:10 |
|
Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Oh I already pitched it. I'm just impatient because it's a Belgian Tripel that looks super tasty. Can't wait to see what Wyeast 3787 does to an OG of 1.079. Everyone has a good 3787 story. And yes, rig the blowoff now! Keep the lights off and try to sneak in and do it quietly before it catches you
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 02:21 |
|
Marshmallow Blue posted:Alright folks, I've done what I can to put my recipe list together. What is the batch size for these recipes?
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 02:31 |
|
mewse posted:What is the batch size for these recipes? They are all one gallon unless it specifies. A couple are 2 gal or 1.5 gal starting with a 1gal final volume (calculating for major racking lossages)
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 02:43 |
|
Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Oh I already pitched it. I'm just impatient because it's a Belgian Tripel that looks super tasty. Can't wait to see what Wyeast 3787 does to an OG of 1.079. Did you not make a starter? One packet isn't really going to be sufficient for a 5 gallon batch of that gravity.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 02:58 |
|
Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Oh I already pitched it. I'm just impatient because it's a Belgian Tripel that looks super tasty. Can't wait to see what Wyeast 3787 does to an OG of 1.079.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 03:40 |
|
Yeah as someone else in this thread said (hilariously and accurately), WY3787 without a blowoff tube is literally an IED. Deal with that poo poo ASAP unless you want to scrub wort and yeast off of every surface.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 04:42 |
|
Why not just do an open fermentation for primary? Saves the whole issue of creating a nasty mess and is healthier for the yeast. As long as you have a curved airlock you won't get contamination. Think Pasteur man. It does wonders to prevent foaming during log phase.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 06:03 |
|
Shbobdb posted:Why not just do an open fermentation for primary? Saves the whole issue of creating a nasty mess and is healthier for the yeast. As long as you have a curved airlock you won't get contamination. Think Pasteur man. It does wonders to prevent foaming during log phase. Don't do this with 3787 else you'll wake up with a floor covered in yeast crud. The blowoff tube merely provides a direction for 3787's insane krausen.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 06:30 |
|
I've done it a ton of times with 3787. I use that strain for my BIPA which was a house beer for some time (OG 1.070), I have also used it on a single (~1.050) and used some of the yeast from that for a monster Tripel/pale Quad (1.102 -- though there were only 5 gal not the normal 5.5). No explosions. Room temp was ~72. It really isn't that crazy unless you let the temperature get completely, Saison-temperatures crazy. Then it will totally explode but that's anything.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 08:18 |
|
Friendly reminder: there is an IRC channel tied to this and the other beer thread. On synirc in #beer. It's been dead for a while, but come and chill. And get quick answers to questions.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 13:24 |
|
I had an idle thought eating one of the oat bars that make up so much of my diet. Make oatmeal, put in baking pan, roast until dry and golden brown brick. Use in mash with 2row to convert. Grossest oil slick of a beer, or delicious alcoholic porridge that will be the next rye IPA?
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 14:36 |
|
Hooked up a monster blowoff tube so it should be fine. Woke up this morning and saw the beginnings of a krausen on top so I guess things are looking up. So what's the reason behind using larger starters for high OG brews? Is it so that you have enough good yeast in there that it can eat everything up before anything else has a chance? This is my first experience with really high OG beers.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 14:36 |
|
Beer4TheBeerGod posted:So what's the reason behind using larger starters for high OG brews? Is it so that you have enough good yeast in there that it can eat everything up before anything else has a chance? This is my first experience with really high OG beers. There's more sugar dissolved in the wort so you need more cells to chomp through it all. Yeast reproduction can make off flavors so it's best to start out with a big enough population. Then again, I've underpitched big beers that came out fine so nothing is 100% certain. The Mr Malty pitch rate calculator will tell you how much yeast you need for a healthy fermentation based on volume and gravity but his calculations tend to err on overpitching. edit: on a somewhat related note, I pitched an enormous starter in the 1.070 rye lager I brewed this weekend and it blew off inside my kegerator and now I have to clean yeast goop out of everything I've never had a lager blow off on me before. I even used Fermcap-S on it. internet celebrity fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Mar 12, 2013 |
# ? Mar 12, 2013 14:46 |
|
Well I'm out of Star San and have no homebrew stores close by, so I was wondering what the best way to sanitize equipment would be? Would using diluted bleach or isopropyl alcohol to wash equipment and then rinse with water be the best way?
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 16:05 |
|
Raveen posted:Well I'm out of Star San and have no homebrew stores close by, so I was wondering what the best way to sanitize equipment would be? I used bleach for my first mead, Just be sure to dillute it properly for the "food surfaces option", and stuffs gotta be rinsed til the bleach smell is gone. And I'm not even dead! edit: quote from some googleing "When sanitizing food preparation areas: counters, tables, sinks, knives, and cutting boards. All surfaces should be washed to remove organic materials (food bits) and rinsed. It is only at this point that the items should be sanitized with a bleach solution of approximately 200ppm. This is about 1 TBSP of chlorine bleach per gallon of water."
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 16:15 |
|
I hesitate to say how long I used bleach, ala Charlie Papazian. It works best if you rinse everything with very hot water after you bleach it - boiled water is best, but if your hot tap water is good and hot, it is probably OK too.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 17:24 |
|
I made my first batch of an ale at a friend's house on Saturday. I've had a full kit (I mean literally every single piece I could ever need) for years but I was terrified of improper sterilization. Apparently it involves a spray bottle with Iodophor and that's it, so yeh, this looks easy. We did it at his house since he is way more experienced and he put them in his cool basement. The basement in my house, however, is a loving blast furnace. Something is probably wrong with the ducts because it's easily 80 degrees down there right now. That really means that if I do a batch at home (and honestly now that I've seen how easy it is, I'm itching to go buy some more ingredients and do it myself) I have no place to cool it. The OP recommends a fridge but I can't get one down there. A smaller one seems way too small for a 5 gallon batch. So what do I do? Use the smaller fridge and do a smaller batch?
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 18:28 |
|
I use a normal sized mini-fridge to cool my 5 gallon batches (in a bucket or 6gal carboy). It requires cutting out the door beverage holder part but that wasn't hard (didn't mess with the freezer part). For the bucket it is a bit of a tight squeeze but a paper wedge under the bucket gives it just a slight tilt back into the fridge that the door is able to close.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 18:34 |
|
ChiTownEddie posted:I use a normal sized mini-fridge to cool my 5 gallon batches (in a bucket or 6gal carboy). It requires cutting out the door beverage holder part but that wasn't hard (didn't mess with the freezer part). For the bucket it is a bit of a tight squeeze but a paper wedge under the bucket gives it just a slight tilt back into the fridge that the door is able to close. The problem is it's not my fridge so I can't start cutting it. Now that I think about it, it might actually be old enough that it doesn't have that nonsense on the front.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 18:43 |
|
Saint Darwin posted:The problem is it's not my fridge so I can't start cutting it. Now that I think about it, it might actually be old enough that it doesn't have that nonsense on the front. Ahhh okay. Yeah, basically you need it to be flat down the inside of the door. Otherwise you were correct that it wouldnt fit 5gal batches. If your friend has a 3gallon better bottle you could try putting that inside to see if it would fit (I dont remember from mine). I do 2.5gal test batches pretty often and its really not too bad.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 18:47 |
|
Do you have to put it in the basement, is there a cooler place you can ferment it in? I use 3 reusable big plastic blue-ice packs placed around the bottom of my carboy, then cover the carboy and ice packs with a jacket to insulate it, and replace the icepacks with new cold ones ever 12 hrs. I've also seen big keg buckets at Walmart that look like they could filled with water and ice to get a carboy colder. You could also look at brewing Belgians and saisons, both of which like warmer fermentation temps.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 19:40 |
|
I've done basically this (bleach +vinegar) in a pinch. Note the warnings. http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?p=653874#p653874
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 19:46 |
|
Anywhere else is going to be aboveground and subject to the house temperatures. Our AC is terrible so in the summer it gets astronomically hot (the basement actually isn't too bad then). Right now the basement is very warm but our storage room, which is basically part of an old garage that was just not fully finished, is a little warmer than outside. Even though I can't be certain it won't spike to < 50 or > 70 these days, the weather she be nuts.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 19:47 |
|
I made a porter about a year ago that had a typical coffee/chocolate flavor to it. This week I found a couple bottles that had been in the back of the pantry and cracked one open. It had a weird tangy/acidic flavor that I don't remember the original batch having. Gave me the impression of a little of champagne or maybe lemon-lime soda mixed in with the beer. Is this due to autolysis of the yeast? What's the conceivable lifetime of storing a bottle conditioned beer? I made an imperial stout this winter that I'd like to be able to age, but I don't want it to go to waste if it's going to develop weird flavors by next winter.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 20:04 |
|
Mammon Loves You posted:I made a porter about a year ago that had a typical coffee/chocolate flavor to it. This week I found a couple bottles that had been in the back of the pantry and cracked one open. It had a weird tangy/acidic flavor that I don't remember the original batch having. Gave me the impression of a little of champagne or maybe lemon-lime soda mixed in with the beer. Is this due to autolysis of the yeast? The beer could have had a very mild infection that was totally unnoticeable when you drank the bulk of it, but given a year, has developed to the point where you can taste it. Acidity is a common flavor associated with infections. Beer doesn't really "go bad" without an external force like wild yeast/bacteria. It can oxidize over time but that gives you more of a wet paper flavor, not tangy. Big, dark beers like imperial stouts and barleywines can actually stand up to that aging and develop pleasant flavors.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 20:13 |
|
|
# ? May 17, 2024 04:50 |
|
Saint Darwin posted:Anywhere else is going to be aboveground and subject to the house temperatures. Our AC is terrible so in the summer it gets astronomically hot (the basement actually isn't too bad then). Right now the basement is very warm but our storage room, which is basically part of an old garage that was just not fully finished, is a little warmer than outside. Even though I can't be certain it won't spike to < 50 or > 70 these days, the weather she be nuts. The only way you are ever going to have complete control over the temperature during fermentation is to buy/build a fermentation chamber. Period. You can try sticking it in buckets of water with ice or using dehydration to cool it etc etc but that's kind of annoying and you have to keep messing with it. With my fermentation fridge, I set my thermostat for the temp I want, stick my bucket into it, and then leave it there for a week+. I open the door once a day to check the temp on the thermometer sticker on the side of the bucket and that's it. I learned my lesson while trying to brew a hefeweizen in the dead of winter and not being able to keep it cold enough in my 2nd story apartment. The entire batch was ruined. That was my third batch of beer and I built myself a ferm fridge right after. When I'm not brewing, I put the shelves back in and it becomes a beer fridge. Win-win.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2013 20:18 |