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She kind of sounds like a beer snob. well done
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Mar 23, 2013 21:48
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So here's the calculus of the beer I plan to make soon http://hopville.com/recipe/1691994 The Golden Light is going to go in with the hops boil. I'm thinking of splitting up the larger of the hops and doing a dry hopping as well, but I'm concerned that this yeast is apparently Very Fast and there might not be an appreciable benefit unless I do it at something like the second day. Be gentle I am quite 
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Mar 24, 2013 03:08
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Saint Darwin posted:So here's the calculus of the beer I plan to make soon Flaked oats are gobs of starch with no sugars or enzymes. If you want to do oats in a steep you will need to do a mini mash which is as simple as adding 1/2 to 1 lbs of 2 row barley malt and holding the steep at 150-160F for 30-60 minutes before raising up to 170F and removing the steeped grains.
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Mar 24, 2013 03:26
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zedprime posted:Couple major things. That is a huge amount of Crystal 80. For 5 gallons, 1lb of crystal malt is on the super high end of caramel sweetness. I wouldn't go above that 1lb unless you really like your candy beer. Even 1lb is a ton of caramel malt. I rather disagree. Even malt manufacturer websites say go up to 15% of the grain bill. Overall, sweetness is going to depend more on mash temperature and malt to hop ratio more than if you're using crystal malt or not.
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Mar 24, 2013 04:11
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zedprime posted:Couple major things. That is a huge amount of Crystal 80. For 5 gallons, 1lb of crystal malt is on the super high end of caramel sweetness. I wouldn't go above that 1lb unless you really like your candy beer. Even 1lb is a ton of caramel malt. Even with the large amount of hops I'm using? Cutting it down wouldn't be hard but is it really going to be that sweet?
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Mar 24, 2013 04:40
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14% is rather high. The only style I can think of that are that high would be ESBs or Bitters. That is also a lot of oats, most recipes use under 10% that I've seen. What are you going for? I'm guessing a sort of IPA? You need to cut back on the bittering hops and do more aroma/flavor additions. Just from my limited experiences you're going to have a very bitter beer with little to no flavor from the hops to balance the bitterness. Edit: Didn't see the roasted barley either...what are you going for?
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Mar 24, 2013 05:04
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Whoa I goofed, it's only 8 oz of oats. The beer I made before was the same Golden Light, roasted barley, oats, and Northern Brewer hops and some juniper during fermentation; I don't remember the other steeping grain we used. I'm actually really happy with how it came out even before secondary has started, but I wanted to do my new batch with a little more character. I thought a more serious hopping at flameout (and I was told to actually do half at flameout and then half as a dry hop later) and a sweeter note with the Crystal would make it a much more interesting flavor. I might throw in more juniper. You can taste it with the first batch but it's very background. edit: I don't think this is an endgame beer at all, but an ideal beer I want to get "skilled enough" to replicate is 21st Amendment's Black in Black. I love that drat beer. Adult Sword Owner fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Mar 24, 2013 |
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Mar 24, 2013 06:17
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Every ingredient Back in Black uses is listed on their website. I'd imagine it'd be ~80% pale malt, 5-10% munich, 5-10% crystal, and enough debittered black to give it the color.
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Mar 24, 2013 14:16
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Midorka posted:Every ingredient Back in Black uses is listed on their website. I'd imagine it'd be ~80% pale malt, 5-10% munich, 5-10% crystal, and enough debittered black to give it the color. I wanted to get there on my own  I'm so drat new I figured it'd be a way to figure out how things work.
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Mar 24, 2013 18:39
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If you'd like to learn how recipes are built get Brewing Classic Styles. It's a great book with great recipes and explanations on why things are chosen. You could also delve deeper and read Designing Great Beer. I don't see a need to experiment and potentially have a bunch of bad beer when there are excellent resources. It's going to be impossible to figure out recipes if you don't know how they are formed and what the ingredients do. I'm still learning a great deal but without the great resources online and in print I would be lost. If you'd really like to learn how components work you could do a SMaSH beer, which means single malt and single hop. That will allow you to get a feel for the base malts and the hops. You could also dry hop Bud Light to understand the flavors and aromas each hop gives off. As it is now, from my understanding, you're shooting in the dark. By that I mean you're very new to brewing and probably haven't read much resources, forgive me if I'm wrong though. I don't mean that condescendingly, so please don't take offense. Do you understand why oats are used though? Do you understand how the sugars from Crystal malt are handled by the yeast? There's a lot to learn and even after reading a few books I know I have a lot more to learn.
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Mar 24, 2013 18:52
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Saint Darwin posted:I wanted to get there on my own But then there isn't anything wrong with just going it blind as it takes a lot of mistakes piled up to really run into problems. It's just there's 5000 years of brewing mishaps and experiments to start from if you're interested. baquerd posted:I rather disagree. Even malt manufacturer websites say go up to 15% of the grain bill. Overall, sweetness is going to depend more on mash temperature and malt to hop ratio more than if you're using crystal malt or not. Also I am probably just a crystal hater as my favorite american styles are more of the dash of crystal than the better add poo poo tons of crystal because crystal is american sort of stuff.
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Mar 24, 2013 19:06
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Midorka posted:If you'd like to learn how recipes are built get Brewing Classic Styles. It's a great book with great recipes and explanations on why things are chosen. You could also delve deeper and read Designing Great Beer. I don't see a need to experiment and potentially have a bunch of bad beer when there are excellent resources. It's going to be impossible to figure out recipes if you don't know how they are formed and what the ingredients do. I'm still learning a great deal but without the great resources online and in print I would be lost. In that vein, I HIIIIGHLY recommend buying John Palmer's excellent book "How to Brew". It's twelve bucks on amazon, and free shipping if you have prime http://www.amazon.com/How-Brew-Everything-Right-First/dp/0937381888/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364149147&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+brew you can't buy a more useful introductory book, and there's a ton of information for experts as well. Every new brewer should do themselves a favour and just buy this.
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Mar 24, 2013 19:20
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Palmer was the first thing I read, I wish I started with Papazian instead. Really they should both be read cause they approach the basics in two different ways.
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Mar 24, 2013 20:01
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Angry Grimace posted:That's probably just residual yeast in suspension (which sometimes has a banana-y sweetness) and the high FG you're working with. Simcoe is widely used in the driest IPAs around. Hey I just wanted to let you know that I just got back from vacation after the DIPA had sat cold conditioning for the weekend and the sweetness I was describing is almost completely gone now. You were probably spot on, this beer tastes a thousand time more like what I was hoping to acheive.
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Mar 24, 2013 20:09
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I'm looking for an in-depth textbook for fermentation. I've been considering picking up Brewing Yeast and Fermentation--does anyone here have experience with this text? It is pretty pricy, but looks like what I'm looking for.
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Mar 24, 2013 20:16
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Had a long but pretty good brewday (even though it was rainy  ).* Moved a fresh IIPA to secondary and dryhopped it * Bottled the no-boil Berliner Weisse (so sour, so good) that was sitting on top of my Gose cake, leaving about a gallon of beer and schmutz in the carboy * Brewed a Flanders Red (1070 OG) and racked it on top of the Berliner mess. Should be bubblin by tonight  Unfortunately it appears that my efficiency has gone down since my programmable tea kettle broke (70% down from about 75%). Guess I should invest in a more reliable solution.
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Mar 24, 2013 22:20
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Well I got mine going. A bit weird in my kitchen because it really has no space but not bad. The biggest problem I found was when I started crushing up the juniper berries I noticed there was a beetle (now ex-beetle) in the mix, and I couldn't just man up and throw it in anyway, so it's going to miss that.
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Mar 25, 2013 00:21
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Did a Chocolate Cherry Stout today, custom made kit from the LHBS. Extract with steeping grains. First batch that was not a Mr Beer .. and I think I did OK. Sanitized the poo poo out of everything and then some. I'm sitting here messing around online and the airlock is already starting to show signs of life. Quite a bit actually. This hobby is awesome.
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Mar 25, 2013 00:54
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Just sealed the lid on a Mexican Cervesa extract kit. It uses Wyeast 2007 with 6.5 lbs of fermentables, Cluster hops for bittering, and Saaz hops for aroma. Anything I should watch out for? OG was 1.049 so hopefully it won't explode on me; if need be I can swap the blowoff tube off the Tripel.. Speaking of the Belgian Tripel I underpitched two weeks ago, it's is humming along nicely. From an OG of 1.079 it's gone down to 1.017 (8.14% ABV), which seems on par with other Tripels but I'm going to let it do its thing for another two weeks in primary before I lock it up in a secondary for four months or so.
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Mar 25, 2013 01:43
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The airlock on this thing is going nuts already. I'm afraid I'm going to have to fashion a blow-off tube sooner than later for it. Is it typical to have bubbles coming out of the airlock cover? (This is the 3-piece airlock, not the "S" shaped one). There is a little tiny bit of solution on top of the cover to the airlock, and I occasionally am seeing little bubbles coming from what I can only assume is a pin-sized hole in the cover.
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Mar 25, 2013 03:38
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My airlock isn't moving. There is nothing coming out at all and it's been about 6 hours. However there is definitely very positive pressure because when I press down in the lid in the slightest bubbles explode out the airlock. I have no idea if this is good or bad.
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Mar 25, 2013 04:00
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Saint Darwin posted:My airlock isn't moving. There is nothing coming out at all and it's been about 6 hours. However there is definitely very positive pressure because when I press down in the lid in the slightest bubbles explode out the airlock. Give it time. Six hours is nothing; it might take a day or two.
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Mar 25, 2013 04:42
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Palmer was the first thing I read, I wish I started with Papazian instead. Really they should both be read cause they approach the basics in two different ways. Papazian is so old-fashioned I just can't see how it would be an effective way to start brewing over just, say, asking around on a forum. Saint Darwin posted:My airlock isn't moving. There is nothing coming out at all and it's been about 6 hours. However there is definitely very positive pressure because when I press down in the lid in the slightest bubbles explode out the airlock.
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Mar 25, 2013 07:26
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Yeah, two or three years into brewing now and I don't think I've even opened the Papazian book in... well, two or three years. If I remember right I had Palmer and Papazian's books at about the same time and was skipping around them both simultaneously. I'm still glad I read Papazian, just because he made everything look so fun and easy. Which, don't get me wrong, it is. But if I'd known then that now I'd have a third of my garage full of kegs and brewing equipment and was on the verge of buying my second freezer for brewing, I'd probably have wondered just what the hell I was getting myself into.
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Mar 25, 2013 12:11
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Saint Darwin posted:My airlock isn't moving. There is nothing coming out at all and it's been about 6 hours. However there is definitely very positive pressure because when I press down in the lid in the slightest bubbles explode out the airlock. The airlock would move if there were nothing in the bucket and you pushed on a secured lid. You're pushing out air.
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Mar 25, 2013 13:06
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I'm just really paranoid I hosed up something. The reason I didn't start this for years (I've had equipment for a few) is because I wanted someone to show me IRL the actual way to sterilize and not mess up. As soon as I can be sure somethings growing I can begin to be worried that it's not growing alone 
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Mar 25, 2013 13:31
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Saint Darwin posted:I'm just really paranoid I hosed up something. The reason I didn't start this for years (I've had equipment for a few) is because I wanted someone to show me IRL the actual way to sterilize and not mess up. As soon as I can be sure somethings growing I can begin to be worried that it's not growing alone Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew. Seriously. You're fine. People have been brewing beer for thousands of years, and most of them had almost none of the knowledge you have about sanitation. You did your due diligence, you have a bucket of beer fermenting happily, and all that has to happen now is to wait. Resist the temptation to check on things or worry too much. Heck I just checked the Cervesa I put into primary 12 hours ago and there's still no activity. These things take time.
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Mar 25, 2013 13:56
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Saint Darwin posted:I'm just really paranoid I hosed up something. The reason I didn't start this for years (I've had equipment for a few) is because I wanted someone to show me IRL the actual way to sterilize and not mess up. As soon as I can be sure somethings growing I can begin to be worried that it's not growing alone You are worrying WAY too much man. As long as you thoroughly sanitized your equipment to the best of your ability you should be more than fine. Matter-a-fact I found it hard to believe that there has been so much infection talk since in our experience you really have to be lazy to get to that point. I'd put money down that you're fine.
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Mar 25, 2013 14:01
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Saint Darwin posted:I'm just really paranoid I hosed up something. The reason I didn't start this for years (I've had equipment for a few) is because I wanted someone to show me IRL the actual way to sterilize and not mess up. As soon as I can be sure somethings growing I can begin to be worried that it's not growing alone Congratulations, you are the father of a bouncing baby beer. Its possible to make beer accidentally so after putting effort into it it should be a snap. All the sperging discussions throughout the world and internet are based on making beer very specifically because it is impossible to make beer toxic and incredibly hard to make truly bad beer. I don't know if this helps or hurts but with all the hops you used its possible to get infected and then never know because you drank it before the secondary fermentation started.
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Mar 25, 2013 14:20
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True story: I didn't sanitize my equipment for the first beer I ever did. It was fine. (kit came with "cleanser," the gently caress did I know?)rigeek posted:The airlock on this thing is going nuts already. I'm afraid I'm going to have to fashion a blow-off tube sooner than later for it. Is it typical to have bubbles coming out of the airlock cover? (This is the 3-piece airlock, not the "S" shaped one). There is a little tiny bit of solution on top of the cover to the airlock, and I occasionally am seeing little bubbles coming from what I can only assume is a pin-sized hole in the cover. Yeah, totally normal. I've had 6" towers of foam out of airlocks. You cool. fullroundaction posted:* Bottled the no-boil Berliner Weisse (so sour, so good) Speaking of - just bottled the Champagne yeast version of mine. Tasted amazing, and was shockingly higher FG than the Cal Common version (.002). I also pulled a few bottles from an Orange Wit and blended the half-bottle of the BW with the wit. It's going to be a good Easter. Jacobey000 fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Mar 25, 2013 |
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Mar 25, 2013 14:21
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Angry Grimace posted:Papazian is so old-fashioned I just can't see how it would be an effective way to start brewing over just, say, asking around on a forum. The fundamental techniques haven't changed, and he has a great attitude toward brewing. I also didn't understand what the gently caress was happening in a mash when I read Palmer, and I thought Papazian made it much clearer. Not every brewer is as science/engineering minded as some, and Papazain takes what I think is a more Everyman approach to brewing. Hell, someone just requoted a few weeks ago the post about how to go all grain for under $50, and that build is almost taken verbatim from the complete joy of homebrewing.
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Mar 25, 2013 14:22
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zedprime posted:I don't know if this helps or hurts but with all the hops you used its possible to get infected and then never know because you drank it before the secondary fermentation started. Wait, really? I thought the point of hops was that it helped preserve the beer. edit: Yes I'm worrying too much but for all the hobbies I do I'm always super paranoid the first attempt will somehow explode
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Mar 25, 2013 14:24
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Saint Darwin posted:Wait, really? I thought the point of hops was that it helped preserve the beer. No, I dunno if he's trolling or not. But there is a reason why you can just toss in a handful of hops as-is to no ill effect.
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Mar 25, 2013 14:27
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Saint Darwin posted:Wait, really? I thought the point of hops was that it helped preserve the beer. Yea that's what I said. Its preserving the beer in that if it ended up inoculated by bacteria a secondary fermentation won't start till months down the line, if ever. I didn't mean hops introduced anything, hops are barren wastelands.
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Mar 25, 2013 14:42
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Hey Everybody! I bottled my hydromel (yeah its a month old, but it's ready.). And... My honey subscription won't be delivered for 2 more weeks. I cant live in an apartment with an empty carboy for 2 weeks. No way... No how. Marshmallow Blue's Turbo Juice1 Gallon Apple juice 4 cups of brown sugar, not packed 2 brewers best cinnamon sticks Fleishmans bread yeast Starting Gravity 1.090 I brewed this yesterday, It's already vigorously fermenting, I'll air it up and give it nutrients when I get home today. This will be bottled in PET bottles and crashed upon arrival of my honey subscription in a couple weeks, clarity is not a concern.Bottles will be primed with table sugar. Edit: Some formatting and forgot to add the duck sirens, gives it a more "turbo feel" Marshmallow Blue fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Mar 25, 2013 |
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Mar 25, 2013 15:16
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Not every brewer is as science/engineering minded as some, and Papazain takes what I think is a more Everyman approach to brewing. Ironically, Charlie's training is in nuclear engineering. I started brewing in about 1992, and Charlie's book was all there really was. I managed to talk the sysop of a BBS I belonged to to carry a homebrewing topic, and when my girlfriend (now my wife) started a BBS in our spare bedroom, she carried the FidoNet Zymurgy topic for me. Then, when we got an Internet connection, I read the hell out of rec.crafts.brewing.
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Mar 25, 2013 15:24
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Hey Everybody! I bottled my hydromel (yeah its a month old, but it's ready.). And... My honey subscription won't be delivered for 2 more weeks. I cant live in an apartment with an empty carboy for 2 weeks. No way... No how. Is this an experiment or have you done it before? I do have a glass gallon jug, plug, and extra airlock that I was planning on using for cider, but I can't find any real cider yeast at my homebrew store (which seems odd). Though now that I think about it I didn't go into the wine room, crap. edit: VVVVV Let us know, I'm interested in how it'll turn out. Adult Sword Owner fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Mar 25, 2013 |
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Mar 25, 2013 15:25
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Just an experiment / free carboy usage. If it comes out well, It may become the new use for my Mr. Beer fermenter.
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Mar 25, 2013 15:29
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baquerd posted:I rather disagree. Even malt manufacturer websites say go up to 15% of the grain bill. Overall, sweetness is going to depend more on mash temperature and malt to hop ratio more than if you're using crystal malt or not. I strongly disagree with this, from both homebrewing and professional experience. Too much crystal malt sometimes manifests as being too sweet, but can also make a beer acrid or astringent in flavor, or overpower the character of the base malt and hops. It's a common mistake: Brewers want to make something complex with good body, so they make a super-busy recipe with crystal and biscuit and carapils and wheat and and and and and... Then, more often than not, it turns out muddled and unbalanced. Even if you bring the mash temperature way down or build up the hop schedule, it won't prevent some of the problems with overloading a beer with crystal malt. For about 95% of beers, when it comes to the malt bill, simpler is better. You don't want the hop flavors of a pale or IPA dulled by a boatload of crystal, biscuit or aromatic (yes, I've seen this), nor do you want the toasty/caramel flavor of an ESB overwhelmed by other aspects, nor do you want an IIPA to be syrupy-sweet. There's a reason the whole SMaSH concept tends to work, and it's because base malt is actually flavorful enough to make a great beer on its own. I hardly ever use crystal malt in my pale ales, IPAs or IIPAs anymore, and if I do it's in small amounts. Even in a stout or porter, too much specialty malt can make the beer seem acrid and unpleasant.
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Mar 25, 2013 16:32
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Ubik posted:For about 95% of beers, when it comes to the malt bill, simpler is better. Loud agreement. If you look at recipes for world-classic beer styles, the overwhelming majority of them have very simple grists. Sometimes you just have to get out of the way and let good ingredients do the work for you.
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Mar 25, 2013 16:39
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