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I usually look at people's finished projects to get a general sense of how much yarn is used.
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Apr 3, 2013 05:02
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Some people have estimates in their notes of how much they have left but I think that'll still depend on yarn type, needle size, any changes to the original pattern they've made, etc.
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Apr 3, 2013 06:41
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So I didn't get to go to Seattle Vogue Live as I had planned (I had worked two weeks straight, 70 hour weeks, I was in no mood for a crowd) but I did help a local indie dyer get her booth stuff there (I work for a truck rental company) because apparently the Bellevue convention center sucks and has like a 6.5' limit or something crazy short, so their truck wouldn't fit. Well all I did was my job, but everything was super painless so they brought me a skein of yarn as a tip! 275 yards of DK merino/nylon in a gorgeous medley of rich blues. I will post pics when I get on a real computer, but everybody buy from Hazel Knits cos she's super awesome and this yarn looks scrumptious!
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Apr 8, 2013 22:21
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I have just finished knitting and sewing the seams of a simple sweater, and I have a silly question: do I weave in all the loose ends before blocking it? It's for my boyfriend's niece and I'm super anxious her mom won't like it, I'm afraid to totally finish it 
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Apr 10, 2013 05:09
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Fat Dio posted:I have just finished knitting and sewing the seams of a simple sweater, and I have a silly question: do I weave in all the loose ends before blocking it? I usually block, then seam, then weave in ends.
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Apr 10, 2013 05:45
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I saw a tutorial on arm knitting and had to try it with some ridiculously coloured fuzzy yarn I had. This took me about an hour:  This was the tutorial that I saw: http://youtu.be/eClB0RpGBlo
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Apr 10, 2013 06:30
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So my local yarn store is taking a bus down for the Maryland Sheep and Wool festival. Has anyone gone to that before? I'm interested, but every single workshop they offer is way out of my price range. Is there anything else there to do?
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Apr 10, 2013 12:27
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Some of my coworkers were just talking about this festival yesterday. I didn't know that it existed (being new to the Maryland area). It's free to get in and free to park, so they said it's free entertainment. And sometimes it's just nice to walk around and look at the gorgeous wool and handmade things. But they agreed that some of it can be quite expensive. They have sheepdog trials and other entertaining things. They said that Saturday it is packed and Sunday is still busy but a little less madness when trying to maneuver around. They didn't mention the workshops. One was talking about it from the perspective of just milling about looking at everything and the other from actually having taken sheep to show.
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Apr 10, 2013 12:56
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The bus trip is for Saturday (woo  ). The workshops seem to run anywhere from $75-$100 and none of them seem worth the money. Also ask your coworkers if I can pet sheep I want to pet all of the sheep. 
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Apr 10, 2013 13:24
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I don't think any workshops are ever worth it. I have yet to see the technique that couldn't be learned on YouTube, or the question that couldn't be resolved by Ravelry or maybe by a LYS owner/worker. They charge literally hundreds of dollars to teach you stuff you could've learned from an online video. If you're attending to make friends or network or meet a "celebrity" or chat about what you're doing, okay, but that's what you're paying for. That said, I still love going to festivals/fairs. It's fun to see animal shows and demos, pet fiber animals, pet yarn, chat with farmers and maybe other knitters, fantasize about raising alpacas, look at everything for sale, spend a little too much, eat my annual corn dog, and go home exhausted. If it's anything like New England fairs, bring your sunscreen and comfortable walking shoes, and have a great time. Especially if parking and admission are free!
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Apr 10, 2013 14:54
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i like nice words
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Fiber festivals usually have other kinds of arts and crafts, fair food and will often raffle off equipment like wheels or looms. You can usually find good deals on rovings or yarn or even a whole fleece, and spinners will usually take their wheels with them to give demonstrations at their booths. I don't think you'll regret going, even without paying for a workshop. And like Anne says, there's always lots of fluffy critters to pet. 
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Apr 10, 2013 15:15
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Gonna pet so many fluffy things!  Also, I see that I can buy a 'meal ticket' for $18. Anyone know if it's worth it?
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Apr 11, 2013 00:54
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Wandering Knitter posted:Gonna pet so many fluffy things! If you plan on eating more than once while you are there, it's probably worth it. Our semi-local fiber fair averages about $8-12 a meal. The ticket would pay for itself in two meals or one meal and a snack. I would just check to see what it actually covered as a meal.
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Apr 11, 2013 02:53
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Wandering Knitter posted:Gonna pet so many fluffy things! This is why I would go. Sure I'd probably spend stupid amounts of money on 'neat stuff I won't find in stores' but I'd be excited about being at a petting zoo for the day!
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Apr 11, 2013 03:41
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I'm dragging my husband to the Estes Park Wool Market in June. I couldn't go last year due to work and almost had the same issue this year so I'm super excited! 
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Apr 11, 2013 05:19
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SilverSliver posted:I saw a tutorial on arm knitting and had to try it with some ridiculously coloured fuzzy yarn I had. This took me about an hour: It looks like a fishing net, awesome...I'm going to try this with something smaller and giant rear end needles!
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Apr 14, 2013 19:45
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Hello, I have access to a knitting group at work and I'd really like to make use of this opportunity to make myself a jumper for winter. I feel as if I may be jumping in at the deep end a bit but I do love a challenge and I have a group of people who can help me out if I get upset and/or worried. I'm thinking of using a fairly simple pattern with a deep burgundy coloured, high quality wool like merino. Am I being too unrealistic with my aspirations? If it seems do-able can anyone recommend a simple (classic?) jumper pattern that I can get started on? I do have some knitting experience when I started a scarf with my godmother a few years ago, which went well until I got bored and gave up.
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Apr 15, 2013 00:51
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If it's a simple enough pattern the only thing you have to worry about is boredom from how long a sweater takes to make. Attack with determination! A raglan sweater is pretty easy and requires minimal sewing at the end. They're also fairly easy to customize to your measurements. I'd start there.
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Apr 15, 2013 16:06
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Tactical Grace posted:Hello, I have access to a knitting group at work and I'd really like to make use of this opportunity to make myself a jumper for winter. I feel as if I may be jumping in at the deep end a bit but I do love a challenge and I have a group of people who can help me out if I get upset and/or worried. I'm thinking of using a fairly simple pattern with a deep burgundy coloured, high quality wool like merino. Am I being too unrealistic with my aspirations? If it seems do-able can anyone recommend a simple (classic?) jumper pattern that I can get started on? My third project was this cardigan (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cassavetes) and it only took me 3 months to finish, even though I frogged and reknitted entire sleeves and panels.
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Apr 16, 2013 18:32
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Thanks for the feedback, I'm pretty excited and indecisive! I really like that cardigan, I've been wanting one pretty much exactly like that for a while now. I liked this for it's simplicity and rusticness, and I really like the textural variation of this which I think I'd do in one colour. Kinda drawn to the cardi now though - I hope its not too complex? I will attack (the wool) mercilessly without honour or humanity.
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Apr 18, 2013 02:53
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I just finished this bag. It is far from perfect. I'm planning to give it as a Christmas gift. I hope they don't feel like it's shoddy work. Learning process.  
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Apr 18, 2013 03:16
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Guys! I made a thing. It's a button cowl made using flame chevron stitch. The colors are a little more vibrant than in the photo.
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Apr 19, 2013 05:10
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innocent_deadly posted:I just finished this bag. It is far from perfect. I'm planning to give it as a Christmas gift. I hope they don't feel like it's shoddy work. Learning process. I love that, it looks great. I'm working on a shawl that will be done very soon. It started out as the pattern Traveling Woman, but I decided to just make it up after a few rows. It was made from 2 skeins of yarn from Cephalopod, colorway Is House on the Rock. Yarn! fucked around with this message at 12:24 on Apr 19, 2013 |
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Apr 19, 2013 12:20
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Hmmmm, dog sweaters are expensive, considering it's a tube with holes. ta-da! ZOOM AND ENHANCE FOR TEXTURE:  All in all really easy, measured dog from collar to tail and around the chest, checked the gauge of the yarn and made a tube with holes. Next time I need to reinforce the armholes though, they tend to stretch.
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Apr 21, 2013 20:38
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Looking for some tips if anyone has any-- I'm knitting a small toy without a pattern and just winging it. Part of it is going to be a tube that wraps around in a U-shape. Anyone knit something like this and know a good method of doing this? I was thinking of stopping knitting in the round, knitting back and forth a few rows, and then picking it up in the round again over and over until it had a U-shape. I'm not sure if this will actually work though. Anyone with better freestyling knitting skills than me have any ideas?
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May 3, 2013 00:56
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Genpei Turtle posted:Looking for some tips if anyone has any-- I don't really do much freestyle toy knitting, but that sounds a lot like doing the short row heel from this pattern, and I guess socks are sort of L shaped at least?
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May 3, 2013 03:25
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stab stabby posted:I don't really do much freestyle toy knitting, but that sounds a lot like doing the short row heel from this pattern, and I guess socks are sort of L shaped at least? Yeah, I was initially thinking of knitting it like a sock with a turned heel and everything, but the problem is you get a lot of extra space in the heeled area. I'm hoping for something that looks like uniform thickness. I've looked for a pattern with a similar thing that I could cannibalize, but haven't found anything. I think I'm really not good enough to make my own patterns from scratch honestly.
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May 3, 2013 03:50
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Genpei Turtle posted:Yeah, I was initially thinking of knitting it like a sock with a turned heel and everything, but the problem is you get a lot of extra space in the heeled area. I'm hoping for something that looks like uniform thickness. I've looked for a pattern with a similar thing that I could cannibalize, but haven't found anything. I think I'm really not good enough to make my own patterns from scratch honestly. If you want it more gradual than a heel, I'd change it from wrap and turning on every end stitch and instead do it on about every third stitch in - eg. knit to last stitch w&t, purl to last stitch w&t, *knit to 3 sts before last wrapped stitch w&t, purl to 3 sts before last wrapped stitch w&t* and repeat. Then instead of finishing it the way you would a sock heel I'd switch straight go stocking stitch and do a few rounds then repeat the whole process a few more times until I got the curve I was after. That's my theory anyway. I haven't actually tried it out, but I have made toys (from patterns) that do interesting things with short rows.
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May 3, 2013 05:06
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Avalinka posted:If you want it more gradual than a heel, I'd change it from wrap and turning on every end stitch and instead do it on about every third stitch in - eg. knit to last stitch w&t, purl to last stitch w&t, *knit to 3 sts before last wrapped stitch w&t, purl to 3 sts before last wrapped stitch w&t* and repeat. That's a great idea! Thanks, I'm gonna try this. Will post the final creation in the thread if it doesn't turn into an abomination. (It probably will)
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May 3, 2013 19:39
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Hey - has anyone used the app Knitmap before? I recently used this overseas and was wondering about it's accuracy. Thanks!
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May 16, 2013 17:58
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I don't know about the app, but I use the site. Just take it with an obvious grain of salt. It's great if I'm visiting my grandparents and Grandpa decides he wants a hat and nobody has any clue what yarn stores are around. But I wouldn't just hop in the car and head off; I would always call ahead, or at the very least check out the store's website if they have one. The listing could be old -- the store could've changed its hours or gone out of business (as LYSes tend to do).
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May 16, 2013 18:37
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I jumped at four skeins of madtosh merino dk on the JBW Wool Watcher this morning, and I thought I would have more than enough for a sweater. Turns out I probably need another skein to knit the patterns I actually want to knit. Now I have no idea what to do with what I bought. So here are some choices I've considered: Pull Me Over (with 3/4 sleeves) Mama Vertebrae I'd like to try some patterns meant for worsted weight (like this or this, but how do I know if I will have enough yarn? If you have a thinner yarn than your pattern suggests, your finished piece would technically be smaller, right? Should I look at patterns for sport weight instead? (Like this or this?) I just want to make a pretty sweater ;_; My last question is how do you all alternate skeins when you knit, and how do you like carrying yarn up the side without it looking all messy?
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May 25, 2013 01:11
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So...will goons be doing the Tour De Fleece?
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May 25, 2013 04:22
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ackapoo posted:I'd like to try some patterns meant for worsted weight (like this or this, but how do I know if I will have enough yarn? quote:My last question is how do you all alternate skeins when you knit, and how do you like carrying yarn up the side without it looking all messy? e: I just checked it out, and this yarn (I've used other Tosh, but not this) isn't just merino, it's also single-ply. That makes it not a great idea for a sweater, because it'll be much more likely to pill/fuzz/mat with the wear it will get. If I were you, I'd read the comments on Ravelry and check out other people's projects, looking for sweaters with comments about durability. I think it would probably be a better idea to get different yarn for a sweater (e.g. Tosh Vintage) and use this for hats/cowls/shawls that won't see as much heavy wear, but I'm really opposed to putting time into anything that won't last. If you're more of a process knitter, that might not bug you as much. Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 04:40 on May 25, 2013 |
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May 25, 2013 04:31
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Anne Whateley posted:If your yarn is really DK, you should be looking at DK-weight patterns. If you pretend it's worsted, your sweater won't be just a little smaller, it'll be downright unwearable. Not if you get pattern gauge. Ball band yarn gauge is a good guide when you're trying to match a yarn to a pattern but it's not verboten to knit a yarn called DK at a larger gauge. You'll likely get a different feeling fabric than the original pattern would get (in the case of knitting DK as worsted, it'll be a more open, drapey fabric), but if you knit a gauge swatch, get gauge, and are happy with the feel of the fabric, it'll work. For example, the Featherweight Cardigan suggests a lace OR fingering weight yarn, but the pattern gauge is the same regardless, and the cardigan will come out the same size in either, though the fingering weight one will be physically heavier and feel sturdier. VV That's an issue with the yarn itself, not its weight. The difference between DK and worsted is not dramatic (especially with yarns that are on the cusp of light worsted like Tosh Merino DK is), so I say if you want to make a sweater, make a sweater - just swatch it first. Drei fucked around with this message at 14:52 on May 25, 2013 |
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May 25, 2013 04:50
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It is possible, but I think it's ill-advised. For your first sweater project, I think it's a better idea to choose something straightforward, rather than substituting yarn weight and needles. She's also trying to make sure she doesn't run out of yarn -- that would be a lot easier if she has usable estimates. Plus it's single-ply merino. For a sweater, that's already two strikes. If you wanted to make it durable, you would knit it at a tighter gauge, not looser. I just think it's a better idea to get a sturdier plied worsted for the patterns you want, and figure out something else to do with this.
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May 25, 2013 07:44
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ackapoo posted:If you have a thinner yarn than your pattern suggests, your finished piece would technically be smaller, right? No it is all down to your tension. The thickness of your yarn will only change the drape of the finished fabric. Patterns listed on Ravelry have an estimated yardage so you can tell if you have enough yarn. For smaller sizes 500g is plenty. If you are inexperienced then I highly suggest doing a pattern that has been done many times over so you can read other peoples notes. -- I finished this jumper recently:  It has this really annoying column of garter stitch at the back for no reason, so another big tip is to not follow the instructions blindly. I used a thinner yarn than suggested (lace instead of sport) but didn't want the jumper to be that thin so I used a smaller needle and followed a bigger size. Worked quite nicely.
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May 25, 2013 16:14
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Sodium Chloride posted:No it is all down to your tension. The thickness of your yarn will only change the drape of the finished fabric. Can you take a picture of the column of garter? It's a really pretty top, so I can't imagine why they'd put that there. 
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May 25, 2013 16:53
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 While it does get lost in the lace mesh there is no reason for it at all and looks like a mistake. The pattern is Rockfall.
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May 25, 2013 17:33
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Thank you all for your advice. I definitely am a bit more rough on my garments than most people, so maybe a sweater isn't the best option with that particular yarn because I will just end up ruining it after a wear or two. (I also have a tendency to catch buckles and such on my knitted items because I am so not careful about that kind of stuff.) There's a cool shawl that I'd love to make, so I think I may end up knitting that plus a hat or gloves or legwarmers. So when I look for proper sweater yarn, the tighter the twist, the more durable it is? And isn't something with nylon a bit more durable? I noticed a lot of sock yarn that does well includes nylon. This is the first sweater/top I've knit ever. It was recycled silk so it was totally not flexible at all. But that's the extent of my garment knitting, so I didn't even consider whether or not certain yarns were durable or not durable, or the fiber content.
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May 31, 2013 15:10
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