|
My flight stick is kind of giving me a lot of resistance and squeaks and groans, due to age and dust. How do I maintenance that? Warm wet rag and clean the area under the washer looking thing at the base of the stick, followed by a bit of oil?
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 14:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 3, 2024 07:08 |
|
|
 I didn't know planes could mate, or is this a refuelling scenario? Anyway I was wondering how good AirHauler is? Does it make FSX basically into euro trucker, with planes? I'm looking for something to make my flying around in virtual planes have some sort of objective around it besides just point a-b.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 18:01
|
|
|
The Bananana posted:My flight stick is kind of giving me a lot of resistance and squeaks and groans, due to age and dust. I'd recommend some white grease after you use the rag, just to give it something. White grease is usually found on the travelling bits of inkjet printers if you're cheap and lazy like I am. Oil can break down plastics and deplasticise them. Just leaving this here after someone IM'd it to me today; http://www.nickelonthegrass.net/MiG_Kill.htm "This was the only MiG-19 shot down by cannon fire during the course of the war in Southeast Asia, and is believed to be the highest speed gun kill in the history of aerial combat."
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 19:53
|
|
|
dahkren posted:
Yeah that's exactly what it does - gives you missions and keeps score. It's kind of like the difference between a sandbox and single player mode in any given game. I was going to take some shots but then I checked the website and it would be redundant. So I'll just post my company and declare myself King Goon Hauler: 
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 20:25
|
|
|
Well the upcoming DCS sale has finally convinced me I should get an X52, so I'm probably grabbing one off Amazon before the month is out. Getting Black Shark 2 and UH-1 is also more than likely going to make getting pedals a must as well. What's a "cheap and good" set I can get? Cheap to me is ~$100, no more than $200, although if there's no way I can get quality below $200 I'll just save up and get some later I guess. Regardless, can I get some pedal recommendations? Also, despite the talk of the X52's breaking with disturbing regularity, it still seems like it's the most reasonable bang-for-buck HOTAS. Anyone care to champion something else for approximately the same price point?
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 20:33
|
|
|
Dark_Swordmaster posted:Well the upcoming DCS sale has finally convinced me I should get an X52, so I'm probably grabbing one off Amazon before the month is out. Getting Black Shark 2 and UH-1 is also more than likely going to make getting pedals a must as well. What's a "cheap and good" set I can get? Cheap to me is ~$100, no more than $200, although if there's no way I can get quality below $200 I'll just save up and get some later I guess. Regardless, can I get some pedal recommendations? I really like my Saitek Combat rudder set. There is a plastic detent at the center of rudder travel that got annoying after a bit, but once I was sure I had a working product I opened it up and took it out, which took about 20 minutes. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=73311 - Detent Removal I have an X52 and I've had good luck with it, but I did the magnet mod to make it way more accurate near the center so take that with a grain of salt. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfJNiHmEszk - Magnet Mod
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 20:47
|
|
|
Hav posted:Just leaving this here after someone IM'd it to me today; http://www.nickelonthegrass.net/MiG_Kill.htm quote:After 4 seconds of settling time, Brenda 01 ripple fired his two AIM-7 Sparrows. The first missile's rocket motor did not ignite, and the second failed to guide. Brenda 01 did a lag pursuit roll to reduce angle off as he selected heat missiles. Brenda 01 got the standard AIM-4 background tone, heard it rise to tracking tone as he put his pipper on the trailing MiG, un-caged the missile heads, pulled lead and fired his two remaining AIM-4E Falcon missiles. The first missile went ballistic and the second never left the right inboard pylon launcher rail 
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 20:57
|
|
|
Dark_Swordmaster posted:Also, despite the talk of the X52's breaking with disturbing regularity, it still seems like it's the most reasonable bang-for-buck HOTAS. Anyone care to champion something else for approximately the same price point? There is no other stick on the market that does what it does at it's price point. Does "The best warranty you can buy from Newegg or Microcenter or Fry's so you never have to deal with Mad Catz Technical support." count as championing something else? Because I'd recommend it for any product you are forced to purchase from Mad Catz. Well. I lie. There is one option.  You could gut a Logitech X3D pro and turn it into a throttle more successfully then I was ever able to manage. Getting the throttle to slide without spiking was something i never got right, and everything had to be perfectly centered whenever you plugged it in or weird poo poo happened with the pots, which never worked the way I wanted either.  It would probably be childsplay to a proper engineer, but alas, my degree in engineering is made of tape and hot glue, and my fabrication shop comes in a small box labeled "Dremel".  :
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 21:01
|
|
|
Holy poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 21:08
|
|
|
I currently own and have been using an X3D. It doesn't center or calibrate properly and requires about a 10% deadzone. To calibrate I have to go through the process, and unplug-replug five or six times, recalibrating each time. This is because only on one magical go in five it lets me pull back all the way, whereas normally it stops with roughly 10-20% left, never actually reaching the bottom of the box. When it does calibrate properly it lasts fifteen minutes. Then there's the twist. It always calibrates right. But then I get in-game and it's centered about 5% in either direction so I constantly have to twist to correct. No, it's not wind sheer. Not that ANY of this is relevant other than this is why I really need an X52 after this sale hits. Trying to fly A-10 is hilariously nigh impossible, even with all the "gently caress you I'm landing with one wing and one engine and no gear try and loving stop me," the plane gives you.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 21:21
|
|
|
Holy poo poo is right. I was pretty pissed off after my ordeal with the X52's, but I still wasn't ready to spend money on a Warthog and pedals, so I said to myself "gently caress it, I'll make my own HOTAS! With hookers! and blackjack!" The X3d I hacked up was actually like 5 or 6 years old, and some buttons on the base weren't working. needing to replace it lead to the X52 fiasco, and in the end I bought another X3d for like 35 bucks, and began tearing apart the old one to make it a throttle to pair with the new stick. It actually worked fairly well when I was able to get it to behave, but before long some bit of tape or glue would give way and throw everything out of whack. If someone wants to attempt it, I've got words of advice about doing it, but  . Ask if you want to try it yourself and I'll write up some details that will save you a lot of headaches.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 21:24
|
|
|
Dark_Swordmaster posted:I currently own and have been using an X3D. It doesn't center or calibrate properly and requires about a 10% deadzone. My X52 had a 100% deadzone of the entire throttle range whenever it was moved. The buttons on the throttle had a 100% dead zone at the same time.  A pair of X3d's are still cheaper then an X52, and I honestly DO NOT recommend someone try the mod, unless they like building crazy contraptions just to say "gently caress you" to Mad Catz.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 21:28
|
|
|
I'm mechanically disinclined and toast is about as far as I'm willing to mod something.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 21:55
|
|
|
Dark_Swordmaster posted:I currently own and have been using an X3D. It doesn't center or calibrate properly and requires about a 10% deadzone. Your mistake here is not accepting the fact that the E3DP is an incredible entry level stick that should be considered disposable. I've found it much better than any other stick in the price range and despite having a Warthog I still prefer it for some games, like ARMA. I've replaced the thing twice in the past decade and TBH It's handy enough and cheap enough to warrant budgeting for a replacement every 3 years or so.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 22:13
|
|
|
Well, finding out that 9K22 Tunguska can shoot down AGM-65s with their own missiles was certainly eye-opening. Also I have a spare regular X52. It works but needs a new throttle-to-stick cable (tested it with my X52 Pro cable). I dunno if anyone wants to buy it on the cheap.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 22:24
|
|
|
My E3D has been totally satisfactory. Not only because it works better with less hassle than the couple $200+ systems I tried, but also because it cost me $15 used. If it starts acting up I'll just buy another one, who cares.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 22:24
|
|
|
I remember using the E3D when I was 16. It was a pretty drat solid joystick for what I paid, and it's probably more comfortable than my X65, honestly.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 22:28
|
|
|
The Ferret King posted:My E3D has been totally satisfactory. Not only because it works better with less hassle than the couple $200+ systems I tried, but also because it cost me $15 used. If it starts acting up I'll just buy another one, who cares. That's what I love about them. They cost about as much as ordering in some delivery food. The dead zone is totally a thing but I found it pretty serviceable in an A10; I even managed to do an air to air refuel with an E3d. once. The real problem is the lack of buttons makes doing anything but flying the aircraft kinda difficult. You're playing the game with the stick in one hand and trying to reach impossible key combinations with your other hand. "press left control and numpad enter with one hand to continue"
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 22:30
|
|
|
Any of you using pedals by chance and can weigh in on them?
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 22:44
|
|
|
In FSX, I use a Logiteh F710, just a ps3 style joystick (because I am poor) and it has worked fine but all of a sudden FSX has added a rudder axis to the controller scheme and I cannot for the life of me figure out how to change it back. Before, the right stick was my view stick to look around the cockpit and what not but now it is the rudder control and my view axis is now set to whatever axis FSX has magically created. I've tried turning on auto rudder, reinstalling the joystick, using xbox360ce and not using it, recalibrating, resetting, rebooting but I cannot get rid of this new rudder axis. Is there something in a config file I can change? Edit: Nevermind I'm an idiot and didn't look everywhere in the settings And while on that topic, is there a way to make the view axis not rebound back to the start position? dahkren fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Jun 14, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 22:45
|
|
|
Dark_Swordmaster posted:Any of you using pedals by chance and can weigh in on them? I'm using a set of CH pro pedals (The hidden $150 cost of Thrustmaster warthog). A twist stick will work just fine for most things. DCS: Huey pretty much requires rudder pedals though. You are almost always fiddling with the pedals and the cyclic is a handful all on it's own, so you don't need a twist grip complicating things even more. I can't say I'm totally blown away with the CH pedals Ive got, but I am satisfied and think I got what I paid for. They're spaced a bit narrow together for my liking, and I find that the pedals have an extremely minor tendency of sticking when I've got to make fine adjustments at large pedal deflections. I think I just need to lube it up better to fix that. They also came with some plastic blocks that let you lock out the rudder action, and use them as racing pedals instead. I bought them specifically because they weren't made by Saitek. They haven't broken or given me any poo poo, and their terribad software isn't required to make them work. They look extremely generic, but that's fine because they seem solid underneath their plain exterior. I expect they'll last many years. Landing A10's with rudder pedals feels a bit more dramatic too as you use the pedals for wheel brakes. It's like trying to put your feet through the firewall of your car while stopping. Flavor, but not substance. Edit: I also want to point out right now, you can be a good pilot and have lots of fun in DCS even with a crap stick. Only us flight sim spergs need to drop outlandish amounts of money on joysticks. I don't think the average person should even consider a warthog unless they are really serious about playing flight sims for years. It's way to expensive for something you'll only play with a few months and get bored of when the next new game comes along. SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jun 14, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 23:03
|
|
|
I feel that the X52 is a very nice, capable stick however you apparently play a lottery on the quality of what you receive. I must be really lucky. There's things I'd change on it for sure. The detent in the throttle shouldn't be there, period. I need to get round to yanking it out. No reason for the buttons to be lit up. Solid colors would look much more professional, and the axis not being 1:1 is kind of silly, but I'm used to them. e: I just realised I have one of these Track Boss Button Box I intended to incorporate into my PC simracing rig. I wonder how useful this would be for DCS. Falken fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jun 14, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 23:32
|
|
|
The biggest problem with Joysticks is that there no comprehensive guide online to building your own either. Most guides are either modding pre-existing joysticks, making arcade sticks, or showing off ancient things like this Greek monster.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 23:54
|
|
|
Falken posted:e: I just realised I have one of these Track Boss Button Box I intended to incorporate into my PC simracing rig. I wonder how useful this would be for DCS. It would probably work really, really, well. You might have to do some slight LUA editing here and there, but overall, it should be plug and play if it shows up as a USB gaming device.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2013 23:58
|
|
|
Yeah, it shows up as a USB gaming device. I reckon it could just sit between my stick and throttle, just need to think of what to assign the buttons to.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 01:00
|
|
|
SocketSeven posted:It would probably be childsplay to a proper engineer, but alas, my degree in engineering is made of tape and hot glue, and my fabrication shop comes in a small box labeled "Dremel". I laughed for a good minute after clicking on this thumbnail. Bravo, sir. Even if this thing only works 25% of the time, it is a wonder. I think I would probably play sims a whole lot more (at this point in my life that means "I would play them at least sometimes") if I was ever satisfied with the controller situation. I can't remember the last game I played that used a flightstick or my wheel and didn't constantly get reminded that I'm not totally happy with the setup while I'm trying to enjoy the title. You know what stick I never had any problems with? A Thrustmaster Top Gun. I used the poo poo out of that for Descent while everyone else was buying a Sidewinder every other month because they would break. That Top Gun lasted as long as Gameports did, and I think it was $40.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 01:25
|
|
|
Man, it's a drat shame that the guy who made iControl DCS for apple refuses to work on an android port but will do a windows / surface version. Something about "sub par".
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 01:38
|
|
|
Essobie posted:I laughed for a good minute after clicking on this thumbnail. Bravo, sir. Even if this thing only works 25% of the time, it is a wonder. My biggest problem was pot spiking. I should never have taken apart the throttle and just left it as it was. The twist functionality had a similarly spiking pot when taken out of it's housing, so ultimately I was unable to use either one as anything. I had hoped to use one as a zoom, and the other as. um. well, I don't know, but an extra axis is always handy. The second fundamental problem was that every time you plugged in the joystick, it runs a calibration routine. During this routine, every pot needs to be centered or they won't function correctly. The pots have no markings at all to tell you where center is. The final problem was that of a friction lock for the throttle. It is important to be able to set the throttle at a speed and have it stay there. I was never able to be able to get a working friction lock that would do this for more then an hour before the tape got a hole rubbed through it or something. If I were a talented engineer, I'm sure I could have made it work. I've got more money then talent though, and bought a Thrustmaster Warthog and some rudder pedals rather then continue to try and make it work. I've got a few more photos I'm sure nobody is very interested in, so I'll Just give you the link rather then inline them.  http://secure.flickr.com/photos/socket7/sets/72157630727944638/ Fake edit: That DCS app for iPad is the first thing that's made me want a iPad. I wonder if I could get Huey instrument panels on it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 04:58
|
|
|
Falken posted:Man, it's a drat shame that the guy who made iControl DCS for apple refuses to work on an android port but will do a windows / surface version. Something about "sub par". I've done support for iOS developers forced to work with Android. The SDK is ugly, finicky, and arcane; compared to what they're used to it's a 20 year jump back in time. I don't blame him, I don't like Visual Studio all that much but it's heaven compared to Android development.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 06:46
|
|
|
mllaneza posted:I've done support for iOS developers forced to work with Android. The SDK is ugly, finicky, and arcane; compared to what they're used to it's a 20 year jump back in time. I don't blame him, I don't like Visual Studio all that much but it's heaven compared to Android development.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 10:08
|
|
|
Hope this is the right place for this: Sometimes while flying helo in Arma 3, my controls will suddenly no longer be centered, and I can't pinpoint why or how to fix it; it just comes and goes. Like, sometimes, usually at first, I'll get in and take off, and everything is good, and then after a few looks at my map, or auto-hovers, I'll notice I'm having to fight the controls to keep her level. Sometimes she's pitching slightly, other times she wants to roll over on me, and less commonly, my rudder will have me wanting to spin. Is that a hardware issue, or something wrong with the game?
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 12:39
|
|
|
The Bananana posted:Hope this is the right place for this: Is there a trim button? That would put the cyclic stick and possibly rudder pedals in a non neutral position in game, when your joystick is centered. Trimming a helicopter is different from a plane. You get the helicopter stable in whatever flight mode you want (hovering, moving forward, whatever) then hit the trim so that the cyclic stick centers there, and you don't constantly have to be holding it in position. If you aren't accidentally hitting a trim button, I'd guess it's a bug.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 13:01
|
|
|
SocketSeven posted:Is there a trim button? That would put the cyclic stick and possibly rudder pedals in a non neutral position in game, when your joystick is centered. Thanks for the response. I dont think my Saitek Cyborg evo has a trim button, and some googling seems to confirm that. I guess I'll go ask in the Arma thread if anyone else is having the same problem.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 13:30
|
|
|
The trim button would be part of your ARMA key config. It's not something that's part of the joystick.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 14:33
|
|
|
SocketSeven posted:Is there a trim button? That would put the cyclic stick and possibly rudder pedals in a non neutral position in game, when your joystick is centered.  reply: The trim system you're describing is the case with the KA-50, but with very few, if any, other real helicopters. Most helicopters incorporate rotor trim that works more like the trim in a fixed wing airplane.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 15:01
|
|
|
The Huey has a trim system that works in almost the exact same manner. Pushing the force trim button adjusts the cyclic stick so it centers wherever you had it positioned when you pushed the trim button. I'm not sure you can hold the trim button down like you can do with the Ka-50 though. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 15:41
|
|
|
What is the procedure for relighting a cold stove on the A-10C? 90% of the time when I try it, the RPM for the particular engine sits around 10/30rpm. I've managed it once or twice but no idea how. e: NVM, seem to have gotten it. APU on, APU GEN PWR, restart the engine. Seems to trigger if I push the throttle forward then back to idle? Falken fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Jun 15, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2013 18:35
|
|
|
Hey guys, We are looking at setting up a basic flight simulator within the school I work at. Any suggestions on which flight sim I should be looking at. PC will be specifically built for running the flight sim, so I can't decide between Flight Sim X with a few mods, or going with the latest X-Plane. I'll be checking out the trial versions of both, but figured I would ask what most users seem to think would be best now. I've read the first few posts of this thread were it seems to favor FSX, but wasn't sure if this was still the case. I'll most likely have more questions coming soon.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2013 01:02
|
|
|
 Unfortunately ran out of dymo tape towards the end. The bottom row is all basic exterior lighting modes and the HUD day/night toggle. I might switch the APU switch over to where the seat up/down is, and put two other toggle functions where APU currently is.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2013 01:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 3, 2024 07:08 |
|
|
freeranger posted:Hey guys, I'm probably one of the few that would suggest going this direction here but X-plane 10 by far. X-plane 10 is a faster piece of software to use and operate, is extremely configurable, scales well for systems so you don't need an enormously powerful rig to run decently, and is very comprehensive in terms of how easily you can put an aircraft in any sort of situation. FSX is dogshit unless you're wanting to invest in some payware mods and aircraft. Granted, X-Plane 10 benefits from having some really nice payware jets like the Boeing 777 or whatever, but it's not necessary. X-plane 10 also flies really nicely compared to FSX as well as modeling helicopter flight quite a bit better as well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2013 01:39
|
|
