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You'll get one eventually, mark my words. Here's me flooding the forum with more  photos 
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Jun 27, 2013 13:37
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So I have a line on a Mamiya 330C with a 80mm 2.8 for $200. It's being sold by a local photographer and it seems to be in pretty good condition. I've been looking for an affordable 6x6 setup, but I'm not too sure if this is one of those deals that's too good to be true. Does anyone have any experience with these? The ad says that it only gets 11 shots instead of 12, which upon researching turns out to be a pretty common issue that can be fixed pretty easily at home.
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Jun 29, 2013 04:40
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tsc posted:So I have a line on a Mamiya 330C with a 80mm 2.8 for $200. It's being sold by a local photographer and it seems to be in pretty good condition. I've been looking for an affordable 6x6 setup, but I'm not too sure if this is one of those deals that's too good to be true. Does anyone have any experience with these? The ad says that it only gets 11 shots instead of 12, which upon researching turns out to be a pretty common issue that can be fixed pretty easily at home. The only bad thing I've heard about the Mamiya TLRs is that they're bigger and heavier than a typical TLR, but you do get interchangeable lenses so it's not for nothing. For what it's worth KEH sells bodies for more than $200, so if you get a lens with and are confident that you can repair that problem then it seems like a good deal.
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Jun 29, 2013 04:49
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tsc posted:So I have a line on a Mamiya 330C with a 80mm 2.8 for $200. It's being sold by a local photographer and it seems to be in pretty good condition. I've been looking for an affordable 6x6 setup, but I'm not too sure if this is one of those deals that's too good to be true. Does anyone have any experience with these? The ad says that it only gets 11 shots instead of 12, which upon researching turns out to be a pretty common issue that can be fixed pretty easily at home. Unless the prices for those have gone absolutely nuts since I last checked, that's a pretty normal/decent price. I bought mine for about $200, sold it for the same after picking up a Hassie. Pretty nice camera and I wouldn't mind giving the system another go someday 
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Jun 29, 2013 12:29
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tsc posted:So I have a line on a Mamiya 330C with a 80mm 2.8 for $200. It's being sold by a local photographer and it seems to be in pretty good condition. I've been looking for an affordable 6x6 setup, but I'm not too sure if this is one of those deals that's too good to be true. Does anyone have any experience with these? The ad says that it only gets 11 shots instead of 12, which upon researching turns out to be a pretty common issue that can be fixed pretty easily at home. I have one of these and really dig it, even though I never did get a second lens. If it's in good shape, go for it.
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Jun 29, 2013 23:42
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Quick question for the large-format crowd: I bought a small amount of LF Ektachrome to freeze, because I love that film and would love to see what it does in 4x5 or 8x10 one day. Should I bag the film before freezing it, or is it safe just to put the boxes in the freezer unprotected?
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Jul 4, 2013 01:41
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Yond Cassius posted:Quick question for the large-format crowd: I've always bagged it, myself. No idea what freezerburn will do to an emulsion, but it doesn't do the meat in my freezer any favors.
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Jul 4, 2013 01:56
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Just ordered a 50mm f/4 *T C and a second A12 back for my Hassie from KEH for my upcoming trip to Tokyo (both the city proper, and a pair of tropical islands a few hundred kilometers south that are still considered "Tokyo", administratively)  I've been running just a 500C/M with the 80mm and a single back for the last two years, so it'll be nice to finally be able to take advantage of the Hassie as a "system" camera. By default I'll probably have Acros 100 in one back and, Ektar 100 or Velvia in the other (switch out higher ISO stuff when possible if I'm gonna be indoors/shooting lower light, although I normally switch to digital in those situations), but it'd be nice to have a third or even fourth back to dedicate to Tri-X/Portra 400 and not have to worry about juggling. That's sort of an ideal-case scenario though, I think I'd be better off putting that money towards a portrait lens or something. Prices were really only marginally higher (if at all) than what I'd pay on eBay, plus given time constraints I needed something that I'd be sure would arrive in the next few weeks. I think I may upgrade to the 50mm FLE later if/when I can score a deal on one (maybe with some engravings or something), but I think the C that I bought should suit me just fine in the meantime. Yond Cassius posted:Quick question for the large-format crowd: IIRC there's really no benefit in longevity to freezing vs refrigerating (it's mostly just to keep it cool and provide additional insulation against cosmic rays, right?), so I've always just kept mine in the fridge. I want to say I read something that going from freezing to room temp can put more strain on the emulsion than refrigerated to room temp, but I could very well be mis-remembering, or it's likely one of those "too small to make a difference' things. I've also got more spare fridge space than freezer space (I bought a second fridge to use the freezer as a meat/bread locker for Costco purchases, didn't really need the fridge space for more food), so this philosophy works out conveniently for me 
Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jul 4, 2013 |
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Jul 4, 2013 02:21
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I think I remember hearing from a Kodak person saying that all you need to do is keep film at less than 4C and you'll be okay, freezing is not really necessary. Also if the film is unopened it should be sealed in its own little ouch too if you're worried about condensation.
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Jul 4, 2013 02:30
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I think I remember something similar to what Spedman says, but this Kodak document says deep freeze for long storage, refrigerate for "next six months". It may be over-cautious. Personally I have more freezer space than fridge space, and I stage my film (freezer->fridge->room temperature) so a little temperature-shock prevention is built into my process. I'll bag it up, though; thanks!
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Jul 4, 2013 02:42
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Anyone that doesn't have at least a six month supply of film is doing it wrong. 
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Jul 4, 2013 02:48
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Yond Cassius posted:I think I remember something similar to what Spedman says, but this Kodak document says deep freeze for long storage, refrigerate for "next six months". Do note that this is particularly exacerbated for exposed-but-unprocessed film, which doesn't have very good archival characteristics. The image is not as durable until the latent image is converted to a permanent physical image. That article is titled "handling of unprocessed film" instead of "unexposed film" so I'm not sure which they are referring to.
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Jul 4, 2013 03:04
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I've been storing all my film in lock-n-lock plasticware stuff that I keep in the back of my refrigerator. My sister is crafty and got a huge bag of those desiccant beads and gave me a bunch of homemade (on the sewing machine) desiccant packs. I throw those in there to hopefully absorb any moisture that gets in when I open and close the container. I finally gathered up all the necessary accessories to shoot and develop 4x5 with the Cambo SC my dad passed down to me last year. I ordered a box of Delta 100, and I'm wondering what should I expect when I open the box inside my changing bag? How is the film usually packaged? Going off feel alone, I'm kinda worried about getting my grubby hands all over the emulsion and loving my film up before I even figure out how to get it into the holders.
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Jul 4, 2013 04:18
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Normally it'll be packaged in a light tight envelope inside a double box (although some Foma I had was just a single box). Don't open any of it outside of your changing bag. There'll be cardboard or paper protecting the film too, either between each piece or at either end of the stack. This gives you a good idea of what to expect: http://www.butzi.net/articles/filmload.htm
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Jul 4, 2013 04:37
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Inf posted:I've been storing all my film in lock-n-lock plasticware stuff that I keep in the back of my refrigerator. My sister is crafty and got a huge bag of those desiccant beads and gave me a bunch of homemade (on the sewing machine) desiccant packs. I throw those in there to hopefully absorb any moisture that gets in when I open and close the container. There should be a nested box inside the outer one (the only film that I have that doesn't do this is Arista) and inside that there is sealed bag with the film in it. Keeping the notch code to the lower left corner will have the emulsion facing up. Don't worry about touching the film as long as your hands are dry and clean it will be fine. If it's hot out I wear nitrile gloves rather than swesat on my film while loading or scanning.
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Jul 4, 2013 04:42
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8th-samurai posted:Keeping the notch code to the lower left corner will have the emulsion facing up. Don't worry about touching the film as long as your hands are dry and clean it will be fine. If it's hot out I wear nitrile gloves rather than swesat on my film while loading or scanning.  And yeah I think it's pretty difficult to load the film without touching it a little, hasn't caused me any problems so far.Make sure you put some scissors in the bag to cut open the envelope too, they're pretty tough.
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Jul 4, 2013 04:45
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I keep telling myself that I want to make the jump to medium format, and I've been putting it off for various reasons. I'm a little off buying it but I'm starting to try and get my eye in for what to get. I dont' have too much experience, I've got a Canon 1000D and after playing with some cheapo rangefinders and a olympus Mju-1 I'm starting to think I do like the whole film schtick and want to really go all in on it and get a medium format camera rather than messing around with a bessa or a nice film SLR. I'm personally thinking that it would be nice to have a medium format camera that has -Larger Negatives -A WLF for composing/ground glass focusing -Possibility to take polaroid backs though this really is pretty optional given the price of Fuji instant film these days. Which means that I'm thinking about either an Mamiya RB/RZ or a Bronica GS-1. I know TLR's remain an option, and I suppose a c33/330 or even a nice example of a yashia could be a fun way to try things out as well, which leads me to ask is there much of a difference practically between 6x6 and 6x7? I'm kind of leaning towards 6x7 just out of a sheer "go big or go home" mindset because I liked some of the benefits working with 35mm film brings compared to the APS-C sized sensor on my DSLR. Does that sound reasonable for someone with my background to cut my teeth on larger negatives? Will I regret getting a massive toaster sized cameras? Am I overthinking it?
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Jul 4, 2013 13:03
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Giant cameras are a purely a personal choice there's posters in here that love their RZ behemoths while personally if I'm gonna tote that much stuff I'll shoot LF. I recommend you check out the buy/sell thread, forums poster Mr. Despair is selling a Pentax 67 with 75mm kit for $425 and that is a pretty good deal.
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Jul 4, 2013 13:32
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Trambopaline posted:I keep telling myself that I want to make the jump to medium format, and I've been putting it off for various reasons. I'm a little off buying it but I'm starting to try and get my eye in for what to get. I dont' have too much experience, I've got a Canon 1000D and after playing with some cheapo rangefinders and a olympus Mju-1 I'm starting to think I do like the whole film schtick and want to really go all in on it and get a medium format camera rather than messing around with a bessa or a nice film SLR. The RB is definitely a "go big" camera. Like 8th_samurai said, the Pentax 6x7 is a lot more amenable to being handheld. Personally, I feel the biggest difference between 6x6 and 6x7 isn't really resolution or even handling (6x7's do tend to be clunkier), but composing. The 1:1 of square format can be challenging (and rewarding!) to wrangle an interesting composition out of. It tends to be more... static. Of course, you can always crop, but I tend not to do that with film images so much, for whatever reason. I would say the jump from 35mm to medium format is a lot easier than medium format to large format: negative scanners get a lot more expensive, developing can be a pain (MOD reels do help a lot, but are a pretty recent invention), film holders, etc. Bronica's 6x6 SLR's aren't a bad system either, although IDK if anyone in the Dorkroom shoots with one. Personally I've had pretty bad luck with the reliability of the Russian bodies (Kiev's), although you really can't beat the glass for the money. I'm sometimes tempted to buy one of those refurb Arax's on eBay and give my Volga 80mm and Arsat 30mm a proper go, but they're in a box somewhere in my parents house clear on the other side of the planet, and I've got a Hasselblad kit already (plus a Seagull TLR and a semi-working Pentax 6x7 I've been neglecting).
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Jul 4, 2013 13:49
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Here's two from the Bronica Gs-1. The optics for this are great - 50mm and 200mm rival absolutely anything you'd care to name from another system and the 110, 150 and 65mm are all very good too. It is bulky, being built like an absolute tank, and pretty much absolutely requires a tripod for any film slower than ISO 400 (unless you're pushing it). I'd say it isn't really a camera for someone thinking they "might" like to shoot MF (the SQ/SQ-Ai is more suited to that, and much cheaper). If you use one of these, you're basically committing to lugging around the body, viewfinder, 2-3 lenses and a tripod whenever you wish to use it. That isn't a problem for me. I use the AE-rotary Prism, so can't comment on the WLF, but the viewfinder is absolutely massive, so I couldn't see anybody really having difficulty focusing with it. And I have a polaroid back, but I've never used it.  The Misty Mountains by Falamh  Pass of the Glen by Falamh and an older shot I'll scan some more later, I've got a few rolls I need to dev.
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Jul 4, 2013 15:14
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Trambopaline posted:I keep telling myself that I want to make the jump to medium format, and I've been putting it off for various reasons. I'm a little off buying it but I'm starting to try and get my eye in for what to get. I dont' have too much experience, I've got a Canon 1000D and after playing with some cheapo rangefinders and a olympus Mju-1 I'm starting to think I do like the whole film schtick and want to really go all in on it and get a medium format camera rather than messing around with a bessa or a nice film SLR. The p67 has larger negatives, has a WLF if you want it, and you can get a polaroid back for it (you basically pop the normal door off and stick a modified door with the back attached on instead: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NPC-FORSCHER-Polaroid-Back-for-Pentax-6X7-67-/281126497063?pt=US_Film_Backs_Holders&hash=item417471eb27 ). http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3125105&pagenumber=153#post417088872 
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Jul 4, 2013 17:32
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Bronica's 6x6 SLR's aren't a bad system either, although IDK if anyone in the Dorkroom shoots with one. I do and I really like mine, very easy to use handheld. It's still pretty heavy once you load it in a bag with a few backs and lenses, but that's probably any medium format system.
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Jul 4, 2013 19:10
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Trambopaline posted:Does that sound reasonable for someone with my background to cut my teeth on larger negatives? Will I regret getting a massive toaster sized cameras? Am I overthinking it? You're probably overthinking it. Larger negatives are great, but there's a few consequences. One is really short rolls. A 6x7 gets 10 shots on 120 and you're done. It's more expensive to shoot and process. The equipment also does tend to weigh as much as a toaster, particularly for the larger stuff. It's not significantly heavier to shoot large format instead, but film and processing cost even more. I like 6x7 as a first jump from 35mm. It's big enough that you will notice a definite difference but equipment is still relatively available. 6x9 is also a nice format, but apart from the Fuji rangefinders there aren't many cheap systems to shoot it on. The really nice thing is that all this stuff has already depreciated about as much as it ever will so you can sell it if you change your mind or don't like it. Don't trust selenium meters, if it doesn't specifically say "meter accurate" or use a meter that needs a battery assume that it is broken or wrong. I personally like my P67. It's like a big 35mm SLR, very reliable, and the glass and system are solid. It has an f/2.4 standard lens, which is one of the faster available. The 75 and late 55 are very nice too. Slow flash sync and heavy are also phrases that come to mind. The Polaroid back is a pain and you either need to keep a separate body just for polaroids or only shoot it at the beginning/end of rolls. TLR: You can probably find a Tessar Rolleiflex for $250 if you do some looking. I do like the Rolleis here since they have a TTL reflex finder in addition to a sports finder, but you can get equivalent quality out of an Autocord or go with a Yashica Mat for availability. Folder: The Zeiss Super Ikonta C is a great little 6x9 folder that packs a lot of quality into a small package, or the square format model B's (B, BX, etc) even have niceties like auto-advance at the expense of one frame per roll. I also really like my GS645 folder, it's got a modern multicoated Planar lens and meter and wind advance and I paid $360 for it. It's pretty damned sharp even wide open, and it can go anywhere. However, they can be finicky little cameras so I HIGHLY recommend you buy from KEH to get the 6-month warranty. If you really want ground glass focusing there's the RB/RZ series, there's the Mamiya Super 23 series, and many camera systems have optional hoods. There's also the Fuji GX680, which makes the RZ look like a point and shoot and enables tilt/shift movement on all lenses.
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Jul 4, 2013 19:58
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It's been a while, but I just graduated photomanschool and now I'll be on here a bunch more. New pictures:  ---_0400 by dorkasaurus_rex, on Flickr  ---_0218 by dorkasaurus_rex, on Flickr  ---_0206 by dorkasaurus_rex, on Flickr  ---_0395 by dorkasaurus_rex, on Flickr
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Jul 5, 2013 22:06
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Thanks for the replies. Gives me a bunch more to think about. I'm not in a rush to jump in and get anything yet but I'll end up monitoring the various sites for my options into getting into medium format.
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Jul 7, 2013 02:21
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Argh, I guy I know is selling a Phase One P25 back for Hasselblad for $1800 (AUD), and an H1 body for $640. That's a ridiculously good price, right? Is there any reason I *shouldn't* buy it?
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Jul 10, 2013 06:46
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Nope, because like nearly all MF/LF stuff if you don't like it or don't use it, you should be able to easily sell it for what you paid. And I'm blown away that deal is available in Australia too.
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Jul 10, 2013 06:49
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Spedman posted:Nope, because like nearly all MF/LF stuff if you don't like it or don't use it, you should be able to easily sell it for what you paid. You say this but noone has bought my p67. 
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Jul 10, 2013 07:08
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Admiral posted:Argh, I guy I know is selling a Phase One P25 back for Hasselblad for $1800 (AUD), and an H1 body for $640. That sounds impossibly cheap, so there might be a catch somewhere.
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Jul 10, 2013 07:35
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Mr. Despair posted:You say this but noone has bought my p67. No-one in the Dorkroom, have you tried apug/LFF or anything else (ebay being the last resort)? Unfortunately most of us have too much MF gear 
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Jul 10, 2013 08:04
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Mr. Despair posted:You say this but noone has bought my p67. If I had any money I would be thinking about it  .
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Jul 10, 2013 18:29
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Spedman posted:No-one in the Dorkroom, have you tried apug/LFF or anything else (ebay being the last resort)? Well, I'm not *that* desperate to sell.
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Jul 10, 2013 19:41
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It arrived:  Century View Camera, it shoots full plate size whatever (8.5x6.5in). It came with three double sided plate holders which also have these neat film/paper holder inserts that took me a little to work out. I managed to find a full plate brass lens for cheap on ebay that'll work with it. Just gotta get some more collodion and aluminium so I can get some big tintypes happening.
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Jul 15, 2013 12:49
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6x12 panoramic rollfilm backs with actual light seals worth a poo poo (i.e. not the Da Yi back) are really expensive, like $500-600 for something I'm going to use occasionally at best. My solution? Cut my own half-frame darkslide. Results? A qualified success. I definitely need to clean up the edges a little, and I can afford to cut the margin between the halves a little thinner. The usable part of each image is about 45 mm high, so it's a bit skinnier than the 56mm tall 6x12 - but it'll definitely suit my purposes.  Now I just have to come up with a system to make sure I don't double expose a side... Spedman posted:It arrived: Also make sure to get a Petzval that's too small for the format so you get wicked field curvature and vignetting. It's what all the cool kids are doing.
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Jul 23, 2013 04:55
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MrBlandAverage posted:6x12 panoramic rollfilm backs with actual light seals worth a poo poo (i.e. not the Da Yi back) are really expensive, like $500-600 for something I'm going to use occasionally at best. My solution? Cut my own half-frame darkslide. Thats a pretty nifty idea, I might have to give that a crack. MrBlandAverage posted:Also make sure to get a Petzval that's too small for the format so you get wicked field curvature and vignetting. It's what all the cool kids are doing. I was actually planning on making some of my own lenses, like Petzval design, by getting some PVC tubing and a bunch of lenses from the Surplus Shed. And to be honest, I've grown to hate lenses that don't cover the frame fully after playing around with that homemade camera of mine.
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Jul 23, 2013 06:03
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Found out that the Mamiya 645 can shoot a whole roll with the dark slide in
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Jul 23, 2013 15:43
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Found out that the Mamiya 645 can shoot a whole roll with the dark slide in My condolences. I did that once with the RB67 and contemplated throwing myself off a cliff.
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Jul 25, 2013 04:23
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Hasselblad supremacy, it won't fire with a darkslide in. 
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Jul 25, 2013 04:58
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8th-samurai posted:Pentax 67 supremacy, what the gently caress is a darkslide you weirdos.
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Jul 25, 2013 05:19
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You can't claim supremacy on a camera you are trying to sell.
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Jul 25, 2013 05:28
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