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Speaking of failed drives, Hardware.Fr has released their return rates recently (3 months ago). French/English. For them, Samsung, Plextor, and Intel have the least returned drives. I wish Hardware.Fr has published return rates on the 840; I want to see what percent of returns the TLC equipped drive accounts for. Got me thinking. Are there any sites that tests reliability or something? It'd be cool to which manufacturer has the most reliable components without having to rely solely on return rates.
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Aug 23, 2013 00:24
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It's tough to test build quality/long-term reliability without a large and expensive population of drives. Best real-world data you'll see is probably from enterprises who have cause to deploy a few thousand of a single model, and a sysadmin tracks and reports failure rates.
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Aug 23, 2013 00:37
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GrizzlyCow posted:Got me thinking. Are there any sites that tests reliability or something? It'd be cool to which manufacturer has the most reliable components without having to rely solely on return rates. Not quite the same, but Tech Report is starting an SSD endurance test to see just how they behave when they wear out. Should be interesting all the same.
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Aug 23, 2013 01:18
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So I did the OWC data doubler in my Macbook Pro and have been enjoying my 240gb Sandisk Extreme in there. Great stuff. But I was thinking of doing the do-it-yourself fusion drive setup, since I'm almost out of space already and didn't transfer everything over initially. Kind of a mess. I need more space. Curious how it has held up long term for anyone who has done it? Have you had issues? Is it flawless? Will it break with Mavericks?
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Aug 23, 2013 03:46
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I don't have hard numbers, but my roommate handles all the RMAs for a local computer store, pretty much the only store that keeps a computer hardware inventory in this city. Since they offer excellent terms for refund or replacements, it's expected that customers would return failing drives through the store rather than the manufacturer. The bulk of the drives they have sold are SanDisk Extreme and Mushkin Chronos drives, of around 300 they have gotten 3 failed drives back with 0 DOAs. One SanDisk stopped identifying, and a couple of Chronos drives experienced "slow sectors", which I think actually means a flash error requiring RAISE to recover. Even if most drives don't experience errors severe enough for RAISE to come into play, it could mean the difference between a failing drive being readable but slow or not readable. The biggest lesson is not to use old, cheap, or "weird" drives. Their most notable problem drives were the OCZ Petrol (Indilinx Everest controller), Corsair Nova (Indilinx Barefoot), SanDisk Ultra (not Ultra Plus) and Mushkin Callisto (gen1 Sandforce), and Crucial V4 (Phison). The V4 is an interesting case because while none of them actually failed, every purchaser noticed that it made their computer slower and returned it. Fake Edit: gently caress Corsair for releasing a Force-series drive that isn't Sandforce. Alereon fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Aug 23, 2013 |
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Aug 23, 2013 04:02
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I have a weird problem. I bought a Samsung 840 Pro 256 gig drive. I'm using the free Easeus 6.0 backup to clone my old drive to the new one. The old drive has three partitions: System Recovery (100 megs), Main Drive (900 gigs) and manufacturer restore (10 gigs.) After cloning from old to new the manufacture restore is still 10 gigs, but the System Recovery partition balloons to 5 gigs and the main drive takes what's left. System boots fast but it's annoying to see so much wasted space. Booted off the old drive, cleared off the SSD partitions and manually cloned the partitions one at a time. Sizes were then correct, but it was skipped in the boot sequence in favor of the old drive. EDIT: I checked Drive Management and noticed that the SSD main partition wasn't active. Made it active and got a "boot mgr missing" error. EDIT EDIT: Fixed it! Dick Trauma fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Aug 23, 2013 |
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Aug 23, 2013 08:41
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Speaking of cloning a bootable partition to an SSD without rendering them unbootable, do I just need to set the partition offset correctly as described in the OP, or is there something else that causes that?
Sindai fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Aug 23, 2013 |
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Aug 23, 2013 18:08
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I've used this thread (and a bunch of others in SHSC) to help out with my own personal computing stuff, and have some more SSDs that I'm selling fairly cheap over in SA-Mart. Wanted to give you guys a heads-up in case anyone was looking to upgrade. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3566629
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Aug 23, 2013 19:24
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I've had a Kingston 64GB SSD for my OS and applications since 2009. Is there any point in upgrading to something like the Samsung 840 Pro?
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Aug 25, 2013 17:49
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It's bigger and decently, but perhaps not noticeably, faster.
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Aug 25, 2013 19:56
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Doctor Albatross posted:I've had a Kingston 64GB SSD for my OS and applications since 2009. Is there any point in upgrading to something like the Samsung 840 Pro? Bonus edit: Basically if the old SSD doesn't support TRIM or isn't a Sandforce controller then you probably want to replace it, but the Samsung 840 Evo is so compellingly great that it makes the most sense to wait for it to be a safer buy. Alereon fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Aug 25, 2013 |
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Aug 25, 2013 20:13
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I got a 7 year old XP laptop that I got tasked to "make faster" because I'm "good with computers". It felt like the hard drive was made of cold molasses on a winter day. So I ran CrystalDiskMark and it actually turns out to be the case. This is SATA150, so I know I shouldn't expect much from it. But when my 3DS' SD card has better performance than the main hard drive, that's a problem. Re-installing is not an option, because it's someone's special snowflake. So I was hoping to jam in a decent Sandforce based SSD. Is SATA150 going to be a big issue or will it just make the drive not run at full potential, but otherwise make the laptop actually capable of booting within 10 minutes? Laptop details: It's a knockoff BTO based on the Compal HEL80.
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Aug 25, 2013 20:43
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Geemer posted:Re-installing is not an option, because it's someone's special snowflake. So I was hoping to jam in a decent Sandforce based SSD. Is SATA150 going to be a big issue or will it just make the drive not run at full potential, but otherwise make the laptop actually capable of booting within 10 minutes?
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Aug 25, 2013 20:48
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Quick question: I have a 4 year old Dell Studio 1558 and it uses a lovely rotational hard disk that is horribly slow. I was going to replace it with this one: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HD-159-SA Which I believe is in the OP. I'm not that familiar with disk drive quirks so I was wondering if anyone could point out any issues with this choice? For the record, my Dell has an Intel i5 Dual Core M 450 @ 2.4Ghz with an ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5400 Series GPU and 4GB of RAM.
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Aug 25, 2013 20:59
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PiCroft posted:I'm not that familiar with disk drive quirks so I was wondering if anyone could point out any issues with this choice? Bonus Edit: Here's the Anandtech Bench Sequential (Incompressible) Write benchmark. The 840 non-pro 250GB pushes 245MB/sec, the 840 Pro 256GB pushes 493MB/sec. However, your system is limited to a link speed of ~270MB/sec, which eliminates nearly all of the difference. Paying an extra 40% for AT MOST 10% higher theoretical performance in only one metric is not worth it. Edit 2: That makes sense, though even in a modern system it probably isn't worth going for the 840 Pro over the 840, since it's so much more expensive and the only difference is write performance. The 840 Evo really is the solution for this, as it combines the cost of the 840 non-Pro with the performance of the 840 Pro for normal desktop usage. Downside is, as mentioned, it is brand new and we can't be sure it's dependable yet. Unless you need to pull the trigger now waiting a bit for the 840 Evo is likely smart. Alereon fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Aug 25, 2013 |
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Aug 25, 2013 21:49
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Alereon posted:It's a waste of money to put a Samsung 840 Pro in a system of that age, the system itself will be bottlenecking the drive. At that store, check out the Samsung 840 non-pro 250GB for 137.99, or the Intel SSD 335 240GB for 149.99. The Samsung 840 will be faster for reads and the Intel SSD 335 will be faster for writes, and maintains better performance under heavy load (your usage is probably not heavy). I also have a desktop with an OCZ Agility 3 (I know, I know, bought before I discovered the joys of its constant bluescreens and learned about OCZs reputation) and was considering sticking the Agility in the lappy (since I rarely use it unless away from home visiting the family) and using the Samsung in the desktop which is much more up-to-date. That said, I'll take a look at those drives before I pull the trigger on the 840.
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Aug 25, 2013 21:58
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So this is .. something http://www.tweaktown.com/news/32496/rumortt-intel-could-soon-let-users-overclock-its-ssds/index.html Sounds like a terrible idea to me, but in reality they will probably just downclock the drives 5% out of the factory
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Aug 26, 2013 00:09
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Is there a better deal right now that 109$ for 120 gb? Both the Mushkin drive and the Sandisk extreme are that price, though I don't know how they compare performance wise. There is the samsung 840 for $99, but op says to avoid that (where does the warnings of it dying in 3 years come from)? Microcenter has a store brand 120gb with a sandforce controller for 28.99 (well, they claim but it looks like its sold out everywhere).
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Aug 26, 2013 18:36
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Is there a better deal right now that 109$ for 120 gb? Both the Mushkin drive and the Sandisk extreme are that price, though I don't know how they compare performance wise. There is the samsung 840 for $99, but op says to avoid that (where does the warnings of it dying in 3 years come from)? Microcenter has a store brand 120gb with a sandforce controller for 28.99 (well, they claim but it looks like its sold out everywhere). You might want to consider bumping up to a 240/256GB drive, they're only about 50% more expensive for twice the capacity and better performance (though you likely wouldn't notice a difference), which is a much better value.
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Aug 26, 2013 19:02
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Is there a better deal right now that 109$ for 120 gb? Both the Mushkin drive and the Sandisk extreme are that price, though I don't know how they compare performance wise. There is the samsung 840 for $99, but op says to avoid that (where does the warnings of it dying in 3 years come from)? Microcenter has a store brand 120gb with a sandforce controller for 28.99 (well, they claim but it looks like its sold out everywhere). The Samsung 840 TLC nand which has less write endurance than other drives. Depending on your use, the 840 may die (run out of writes) before the commonly accepted upgrade period (5 years). This won't be a problem at larger capacities like the 240GB range, but at 120GB, there is a real worry that your drive will fail on you. edit: Also, not all SSDs are created equal. Some especially lovely SSDs are worse than any harddrive. GrizzlyCow fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Aug 26, 2013 |
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Aug 26, 2013 19:04
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So I'm not sure whether or not to put this here or in the laptop megathread, but whatever, here it goes. I just recently ordered a Lenovo IdeaPad Y410p. It comes with a 1 TB regular, boring rear end hard drive and I figure since I'm getting a new, fairly high quality laptop I'd like an SSD to go with that. Now, something that I've heard a lot of people doing is ordering a 2.5" caddy from ebay (specifically this one, which I just bought), swapping the HDD and the SSD, and switching the old HDD with the optical drive. Quarkjets also just posted a handy little guide here, which is convenient. Now, I have almost no idea how to do any of that, but I can ask over in the laptop megathread later. The question I'm having is simply what SSD do I buy? Ideally I'd like something that's fairly roomy, so 256gb+ but I've literally never used an SSD before so I have absolutely no idea how anything works. I've looked at the OP and done some of my own research, but the last computer-y thing I've bought was 3 years ago and it was before SSDs were really getting prevalent. Besides that, I don't really care beyond something that's reasonably inexpensive, ideally, and, well, works.
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Aug 26, 2013 22:39
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Cat Army 
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The Iron Rose posted:So I'm not sure whether or not to put this here or in the laptop megathread, but whatever, here it goes. The thread consensus seems to be the Samsung 840 PRO if you want proven reliability, or the Samsung 840 EVO if you want slightly better performance but it's literally brand new so may have some odd issues down the road, probably not though.
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Aug 26, 2013 23:18
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The Iron Rose posted:So I'm not sure whether or not to put this here or in the laptop megathread, but whatever, here it goes. If you want to buy a 2.5" drive now, the options from the OP are what you'd want to look at. The SanDisk Extreme 240GB for $181.50 is a good option, as is the Samsung 840 250GB for $174.99. Between the two the Samsung 840 will have faster overall desktop performance, while the SanDisk Extreme will be faster at writes, faster under heavy load and with a fuller disk, and will have more consistent performance. The Samsung 840 Evo is basically a drive that performs like the Samsung 840 Pro (a very expensive, crazy fast drive) for desktop usage but with the cost of the Samsung 840 non-Pro. If you want something bigger, consider the Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe 480GB for $329.99 (7mm drive, 9mm for $10 more or use a shim). The Samsung 840 and 840 Evo 500GB aren't priced well at the moment but often go on sale for competitive prices. Note that Sandforce drives like the Chronos Deluxe and SanDisk Extreme drop off in performance beyond 240GB, while the Samsung 840s get faster.
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Aug 26, 2013 23:39
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There's a link to the SSD megathread in the OP of this thread, but yeah the top two brands seem to be Intel ($$$) and Samsung. The SSD thread will advise you to wait 3-6 months to prove out the stability/reliability of a drive especially if it's your primary, and get at least one round of driver updates. That said Samsungs don't need the kind of crazy firmware update cakewalk that Crucial/Corsair drives seem to need, Second if this is just your boot/apps drive and you are going to use your rotational drive to backup Important Data the brand/quality of your SSD is going to be less important as you already have a backup.
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Aug 26, 2013 23:41
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Hadlock posted:There's a link to the SSD megathread in the OP of this thread ... This is the SSD megathread.
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Aug 27, 2013 00:00
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Welp Saw "Ideapad Y410", must have stumbled in to the wrong thread. Good news is that the OP I directed him to will at least partially helpful in this situation
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Aug 27, 2013 00:20
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Alereon posted:You might want to consider waiting a bit to do the upgrade until SSDs with the new M.2 connector (also knowns as NGFF, Next Generation Form Factor) become available. That would let you use the SSD slot for your drive (replacing the existing SSD, if equipped), keeping your harddrive and optical drive where they are now. Unfortunately I can't tell you when consumer SSDs in that form factor will be available, but since they are shipping OEM drives in that form factor in computers now it shouldn't be too much longer. Another reason you may want to wait is the Samsung 840 Evo, it just came out about two weeks ago and is an awesome balance of incredible desktop performance and low price. The downside is that it hasn't been out long enough for issues to reveal themselves, so we're recommending people wait to buy for a bit longer so they don't get bit by some annoying bug that takes time to show up. You say the Samsung will have faster desktop performance than a Sandisk. (I just bought a sandisk extreme), How noticeable are we talking here?
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Aug 27, 2013 05:12
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Alereon posted:This is pessimistic, but the key point is that unlike other drives even a minor misconfiguration (like plugging the drive into the wrong SATA port) will cut the lifespan down to unacceptable levels. Can you expand on this? I put one of these in my parents computer because they barely use it so I want to make sure I didn't gently caress anything up.
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Aug 27, 2013 05:46
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Yip Yips posted:Can you expand on this? I put one of these in my parents computer because they barely use it so I want to make sure I didn't gently caress anything up. It needs to be plugged into an ahci/Intel RST port.
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Aug 27, 2013 06:17
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deimos posted:It needs to be plugged into an ahci/Intel RST port. If all of the SATA ports are controlled by the Intel chipset and AHCI is enabled am I ok? vvv Neat. Thanks for the info kind thread folk. Yip Yips fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 06:44
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Yip Yips posted:If all of the SATA ports are controlled by the Intel chipset and AHCI is enabled am I ok? Yes. The concern is more that you're plugging in to a lovely Marvell add-in controller without TRIM support.
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Aug 27, 2013 08:10
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Being the dumb early adopter I've always been I got a 250GB 840 Evo today. So far I'm very pleased with it, although write performance looks low? Hopefully I won't break down on me any time soon. Pretty Cool Name fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 13:23
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I'm looking for a cheap laptop for classes, and found a refurb dell latitude E6400 with a 120 gb SSD. The part number is DELL-120SSD-NB38 and likely from around 2008. Are there any glaring issues with that ssd or will it likely be working fine? Any particular things one should do with such an old ssd? It's an old c2d laptop but i expect it should still be good for office stuff, browsing and movies, so if the ssd is any good i hope it'll be rather snappy in day to day use.
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Aug 27, 2013 15:41
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Get a chromebook instead of a 5 year old dell piece of junk.
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Aug 27, 2013 15:44
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Lehban posted:I'm looking for a cheap laptop for classes, and found a refurb dell latitude E6400 with a 120 gb SSD. I can't confirm but I think those drives were samsungs.
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Aug 27, 2013 15:57
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WHERE MY HAT IS AT posted:Get a chromebook instead of a 5 year old dell piece of junk. The only chromebook i can find in Denmark is an acer with an 11,6" screen, which is just too small for me. Don't think i can go smaller than 14" and still find it comfortable to use. Difference in price is around $50 As i can tell the E6400 is with 4 gb ram (ddr2 though), 120 gb SSD and a 1440x900 14.1" screen, which I'm thinking is decent enough office/browsing/movies. As for piece of junk, I've been looking at refurb thinkpad T series and latitudes E6000 series as the laptop thread op says they have a good build quality. Chromebook would be 11,6" at 1366 x 768, 2 gb ram and no ssd. Am i missing something as to why the chromebook would be better? At least if the ssd on the latitude is somewhat functional. (and sorry if this is a bit too much laptop stuff vs ssd only) quote:I can't confirm but I think those drives were samsungs. Lehban fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 16:00
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Lehban posted:Am i missing something as to why the chromebook would be better? At least if the ssd on the latitude is somewhat functional. Bleh Maestro posted:You say the Samsung will have faster desktop performance than a Sandisk. (I just bought a sandisk extreme), How noticeable are we talking here? Alereon fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 16:03
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Any recommendations for a low-size drive? The first post is very informative, but is based around high-performance/size. I only need a 64gb for my laptop It's only going to be Microsoft Office/Project and that is all; I'll be using windows 8. I was looking at this Sandisk but it's not the recommend Extreme, but I don't think I need the Extreme nor do I need a larger size. I don't need anything fancy or high performing, but I've been spoiled by SSDs on my desktop. Would the Mushkin be a really big upgrade, or would I probably not notice the difference? I'll probably only use this drive for a semester in school then either sell the laptop, or use it very rarely. Any recommendations for an affordable, low-size SSD?
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Aug 27, 2013 17:05
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Rent posted:I was looking at this Sandisk but it's not the recommend Extreme, but I don't think I need the Extreme nor do I need a larger size. Alereon fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 17:51
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Alereon posted:Do not buy unbranded SanDisk drives, they are total poo poo. It's not like the Extreme is slightly faster or something, the unbranded drives are just an order of magnitude slower than anything decent. In general terms it's a very poor choice to buy a low capacity SSD, because they are much less reliable and slower than 120GB drives and aren't actually less expensive. What capacity is currently on sale fluctuates with time, right now the 240GB drives are heavily discounted, but you should be able to get a 120GB Mushkin Enhanced Chronos for around $90 so paying $85 for a 60GB model is insane. Hell, if you have to buy now and have a hard price cap I'd buy a $90 Kingston SSDnow V300 120GB over a $85 Mushkin Enhanced Chronos 60GB. Kingston drives use lower quality flash memory but the better error correction should more than make up the difference versus 60GB drives. Ah I see. Thanks for the advice. So something like this Mushkin you mentioned would be best bang for buck for someone who doesn't need much space? $100 is about my limit so that would be good
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Aug 27, 2013 22:11
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