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FACKER posted:From what my naked, untrained eye can tell, it looks like the only light leak is through the lens itself. Not to mention the lens is pretty cloudy and very speckled (probably mold?). Also the lens is very hard to move along the rail, making focusing pretty difficult. Seems like its better suited as a decoration for now. Bellows pinholes are usually absolutely tiny and do not show up to the naked eye. As an anecdote; even with a strong LED flashlight in a darkened room I couldn't find all the pinholes on my Mamiya 6 folder. I found and fixed a couple, but ... there's still some more (I think two) that show up very visibly on film if the light strikes the bellows right. At least your triplet is uncoated. And due to its triplet nature also lacking in cemented elements, making it fairly easy to clean compared to other lenses. A mix of ammonia, hydrogen peroxide and water usually gets all the fungus and fog off for me just fine. If you dilute it a bit it also left alone all the coatings I tried it on.
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Sep 11, 2013 04:49
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Thanks for all the info. Sounds like this might be a rainy day project to fix it up a bit and run a roll through to see what comes out.
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Sep 11, 2013 19:17
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Has anybody had a Kowa 6 body repaired? I think I managed to screw up my film advance gears or something (not terribly surprising, I know) and I'm trying to figure out if it's worth the hassle and/or cost to get it repaired.
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Sep 12, 2013 23:53
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Sega Saturn posted:Has anybody had a Kowa 6 body repaired? I think I managed to screw up my film advance gears or something (not terribly surprising, I know) and I'm trying to figure out if it's worth the hassle and/or cost to get it repaired. I haven't had any trouble with my body, but I sent my 80mm 2.8 out to Ross Yerkes back in June and he did a good good quick job of fixing/CLAing it. Give him a call, he'll give you an estimate.
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Sep 13, 2013 00:18
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aliencowboy posted:I haven't had any trouble with my body, but I sent my 80mm 2.8 out to Ross Yerkes back in June and he did a good good quick job of fixing/CLAing it. Give him a call, he'll give you an estimate. If you don't mind me asking, how much did that cost you altogether?
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Sep 13, 2013 00:55
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$120 + shipping
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Sep 13, 2013 01:05
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FACKER posted:I was recently given a super old camera. The inside of the back cover says this is the camera Ansco V.P. Speedex No. 3 http://www.butkus.org/chinon/ansco/ansco_speedex_3_3a/ansco_speedex_3_3a.htm I cannot find much other information on it at all. I believe I am missing the shutter release cord. Does anyone know anything about this camera or a similar model? Is it worth trying to use? FACKER posted:From what my naked, untrained eye can tell, it looks like the only light leak is through the lens itself. Not to mention the lens is pretty cloudy and very speckled (probably mold?). Also the lens is very hard to move along the rail, making focusing pretty difficult. Seems like its better suited as a decoration for now.  Ensign Pocket 3 by Execudork, on Flickr First, your folder looks remarkably similar to mine. Objectively, mine is a terrible camera, but the nostalgia associated with it (it belonged to my grandfather) means I love to pull it out and fire off a few frames when I can. Other people will point their cameras at you if you do this, it's a good conversation starter. Second, the best way to check for light leaks I know of for a folder is to either a) open the back and hold it up to a bright light source, like the sun. Look for pinpricks of light from tiny holes in the bellows. Or b) in a dark room, hold a bright flashlight inside the bellows. Third, yup, 120 film. Get some and shoot it, don't just have it sit on some shelf. VomitOnLino posted:Bellows pinholes are usually absolutely tiny and do not show up to the naked eye.
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Sep 13, 2013 01:52
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After developing 2 rolls of HP5+ in Rodinal I learned with that combo you get kinda lovely grain. Now that school started I can use some different chemistry. 20130912-Scan-130911-0003 by Jordan_t_Brown, on Flickr
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Sep 13, 2013 02:58
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Some new stuff from NYFW from me.    Some other stuff on my tumblr
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Sep 13, 2013 05:20
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Love backlit portraits like the last one. Is that portra?
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Sep 13, 2013 13:42
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Just posted these to the film thread and realized there's a Medium Format thread too. dorkasaurus_rex, yours look fanatastic. Bokeh on the first is pretty slick. Ilford Delta 400, downtown Chicago in the winter of 2011.  v700-doscher-008.jpg by jdoscher, on Flickr Ilford Delta 100, Munich in the summer of 2011.  v700-doscher-022.jpg by jdoscher, on Flickr
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Sep 13, 2013 21:04
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Primo Itch posted:Love backlit portraits like the last one. Is that portra? Portra 400, yes sir.
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Sep 14, 2013 05:44
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  Little 4x5 pinhole I knocked up today, has a Mamiya 50mm view finder on top which should match the approximate focal length of the camera. Still need to paint it black and put on the pinhole.
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Sep 15, 2013 13:04
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Spedman posted:
Black cameras are boring. Paint it neon green and cover it with stickers or something...
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Sep 16, 2013 00:09
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Primo Itch posted:Black cameras are boring. Paint it neon green and cover it with stickers or something... It needs to be black on the inside at least to reduce noise/reflection for the exposures, no?
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Sep 16, 2013 00:11
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hybr1d posted:It needs to be black on the inside at least to reduce noise/reflection for the exposures, no? Pretty much yeah.
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Sep 16, 2013 00:19
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Primo Itch posted:Black cameras are boring. Paint it neon green and cover it with stickers or something... Maybe I'll stencil some bolshevik/Marxist propaganda on it.
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Sep 16, 2013 00:41
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paint a naked lady on it
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Sep 16, 2013 04:23
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aliencowboy posted:paint a naked lady on it A naked muscle man riding a zoom lens like Slim Pickens on the bomb in doctor Strangelove. WWII bomber nose art style.
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Sep 16, 2013 10:45
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aliencowboy posted:paint a naked lady on it Coat it in photo emulsion and print a photo on it. Bonus points if you do so by placing it inside a much larger pinhole camera.
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Sep 16, 2013 16:55
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Looks like people are starting to 3D print them too. PINH5AD - A 3DPrinted 4x5 Pinhole Camera by T E Schlemmer, on Flickr
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Sep 16, 2013 19:16
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hybr1d posted:Looks like people are starting to 3D print them too. Everytime I see this, I want my Travelwide more.
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Sep 16, 2013 20:51
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For someone lusting after getting into medium format (for a portrait project I have in mind - yes I know I could easily do that on 35mm/digital, medium format is just so awesome), would this be a good starter camera? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yashica-Mat-124G-/290979296873?pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item43bfb7b669 Is that a ridiculous price?
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Sep 18, 2013 23:12
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As long as it works, that is an excellent camera, and not a bad price.
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Sep 18, 2013 23:21
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Awkward Davies posted:For someone lusting after getting into medium format (for a portrait project I have in mind - yes I know I could easily do that on 35mm/digital, medium format is just so awesome), would this be a good starter camera? It's a decent camera, the price seems fine. From the pictures is looks somewhat dirty; if you buy it, make sure you check it mechanically before starting your project. Also check that the taking lens isn't dirty. (My 124G has crap inside the taking lens, causing some bad flaring. I've read some stories about it possibly being a general problem.) The meter battery might be flat or dead, you're probably best off using an external meter. If you're going to be using flash with it, beware of the sync contact setting. It's easy to accidentally switch it from X sync to M sync. (If it's not on X sync, electronic flashes will be fired too early and barely affect the picture at all.)
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Sep 18, 2013 23:22
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Reichstag posted:As long as it works, that is an excellent camera, and not a bad price. Reichstag posted:As long as it works, that is an excellent camera, and not a bad price. Hmm alright. I'm always wary of ebay. I was also considering this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PENTAX-6x7-...=item3a851a527c But it's body only :/
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Sep 18, 2013 23:27
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Awkward Davies posted:For someone lusting after getting into medium format (for a portrait project I have in mind - yes I know I could easily do that on 35mm/digital, medium format is just so awesome), would this be a good starter camera? I'm selling two Yashica C in the buy/sell thread that have been CLA'd and guaranteed working by Mark Hama, a Yashica repair specialist and former Yashica manufacturing laborer. I'm selling it for $150 to recoup most of the CLA fee and what I spent on it on eBay 4 years ago. I'm taking a small hit but I'm patient.
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Sep 19, 2013 00:12
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pseudonordic posted:I'm selling two Yashica C in the buy/sell thread that have been CLA'd and guaranteed working by Mark Hama, a Yashica repair specialist and former Yashica manufacturing laborer. The Yashica C uses a triplet lens and has a 1s-1/300 shutter AFAIK. The triplet is a re-badged Tri-Lausar from Tomioka, as far as I know. So - your standard Cooke triplet. I have a triplet Ricohflex and as I already stated above, starting around f/5.6 ∼ f/6.3 it's fantastic, hardly distinguishable from it's Tessar brothers. Plus you get cool swirly bokeh, which might be nice for portraits. I can't open eBay links at work, but I'd recommend a known CLA'd camera over the eBay one. Also even if the meter moves in those cameras don't count on it being accurate. So consider me seconding the calls for an external meter. As an anecdote: I have a meter on my Rollei that reads fine in a certain kind of light (evening mid low light) but goes way off in dark or bright conditions. Edit: So that this post doesn't just contain blah blah. An abandoned hotel, on a neigh-empty island. Built during the construction boom of the 80ies, deserted before it ever opened to the first customer.   
VomitOnLino fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Sep 19, 2013 |
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Sep 19, 2013 01:58
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So I bought a Sinar Norma because I don't already spend enough money on this hobby. This is my first foray into large format and have a small issue. When I try to do big rises or shifts the bellows just won't let me, I can only get about 25mm focusing on things in my house (so this will get worse when I take it outside and focus at things further away). My lens is a Fujinon 135mm f/5.6, so wide normal. I did some reading and I think I'll need to get a bag bellows to get good movements out of any wide (or wide-ish in this case) lenses? Is this less of a problem for cameras with a smaller front standard? Also, my tripod head isn't going to cut it for the long term, doesn't anyone have a suggestion for a decent head?
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Sep 19, 2013 07:04
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eggsovereasy posted:Also, my tripod head isn't going to cut it for the long term, doesn't anyone have a suggestion for a decent head? The Markins Q3 head is pretty solid stuff.
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Sep 19, 2013 07:40
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VomitOnLino posted:The Yashica C uses a triplet lens and has a 1s-1/300 shutter AFAIK. The triplet is a re-badged Tri-Lausar from Tomioka, as far as I know. So - your standard Cooke triplet. Dude! Very cool.
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Sep 19, 2013 16:38
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Curious: what is the use of the shutter lock switch on the Pentax 67? Is it basically a bulb mode?
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Sep 19, 2013 18:44
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So you don't bump it when you've cocked the shutter in advance. Bulb mode is the "B" setting, T mode (time) can be used by setting the shutter dial to an invalid speed (the large blank space) and turning it to a valid speed to close the shutter when the exposure is finished.
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Sep 19, 2013 19:20
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VomitOnLino posted:An abandoned hotel, on a neigh-empty island. Built during the construction boom of the 80ies, deserted before it ever opened to the first customer.
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Sep 19, 2013 20:22
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dukeku posted:So you don't bump it when you've cocked the shutter in advance. Bulb mode is the "B" setting, T mode (time) can be used by setting the shutter dial to an invalid speed (the large blank space) and turning it to a valid speed to close the shutter when the exposure is finished. Interesting, thank you!
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Sep 19, 2013 20:24
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eggsovereasy posted:So I bought a Sinar Norma because I don't already spend enough money on this hobby. This is my first foray into large format and have a small issue. When I try to do big rises or shifts the bellows just won't let me, I can only get about 25mm focusing on things in my house (so this will get worse when I take it outside and focus at things further away). My lens is a Fujinon 135mm f/5.6, so wide normal. I did some reading and I think I'll need to get a bag bellows to get good movements out of any wide (or wide-ish in this case) lenses? Is this less of a problem for cameras with a smaller front standard? Given that you said 135mm is "wide normal" I'm going to go ahead and assume you mean a 4x5 Sinar Norma, not the 8x10. What do you mean when you say the bellows won't let you do big rises/shifts? Can you take a picture of the camera and bellows in this situation? This is the sort of problem I'd expect to have with a 75 or 90mm lens, not a 135mm lens. Are you maxing out the rear movements without realizing it? Don't forget that you can shift the rear standard in the opposite direction as the front to get more movement. If the problem is that you're getting vignetting at extreme rises/shifts, consider that wider plasmats like your 135mm don't have a ton of coverage, and that's more likely to be a limiting factor than your bellows. MrBlandAverage fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Sep 19, 2013 |
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Sep 19, 2013 20:32
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MrBlandAverage posted:Given that you said 135mm is "wide normal" I'm going to go ahead and assum3 you mean a 4x5 Sinar Norma, not the 8x10. Yes, 4x5. If I remove the bellows I can move both front and rear standards the entire height of the bars the standards are attached too (and shift all the way to the left and right), but when I attach the bellows and focus on something 10 feet away or so I physically cannot move either standard more than 20-25mm from where I started (and if I move one as far as I can up I can't move the other down at all). I'll take a photo when I get home from work to show you what I'm working with. I did some research before I bought it and didn't think 135mm would be wide enough to severely limit what I could do. People seemed high on the Fuji's coverage area and this link says it has 228mm of coverage (or is that area and not diameter?) which seems decent. 4x5 film is 127mm on the long end so there should be plenty of room for movement there right?
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Sep 19, 2013 21:12
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eggsovereasy posted:Yes, 4x5. The 4x5 diagonal is ~154mm. 228mm is the diameter of the image circle at f/22, yes (it's smaller at larger apertures), but you'll see vignetting in the corners before you do 74mm of shift - think about moving a box around inside a circle. It's really strange that you're having this problem with movements + close focus. I wonder if your bellows are just really, really stiff?
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Sep 19, 2013 22:23
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The only digital camera I have is my phone  This is the most rise I can do:  The bellows just look like their binding up:  Am I expecting too much?
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Sep 19, 2013 23:45
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eggsovereasy posted:Am I expecting too much? When I use my 150mm I sometimes run into the same issue - there's clearly plenty of room to spare on vertical rods but if you want more rise (or movements in general) you need to extend the bellows further, which means using a longer lens. This why you can get recessed lensboards for wide lenses, maybe try mounting your 135 in one of them?
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Sep 20, 2013 00:11
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