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xzzy posted:I don't know what track events you go to, but if they're FIA sanctioned type events, you're going to outgrow 200mm really quickly because most spots you get to shoot from are going to have a ton of runoff areas in between you and the cars. In the long run I think you'll find that 400mm is the gold standard. I shoot at Lime Rock in CT mostly, but even there I'm craving more reach at 200mm and they let you get right up in the action. That's why I was planning on at the very least an extender. Also part of the reason I'm wondering if I should stick with a crop body and jump to a 7D if it's that much better than the 60D since the price has dropped quite a bit in the past few months. I have a lot of fun shooting with primes so I was even considering a 300mm f4 but I know I should grab the 70-200. So many choices. None of this will probably happen until after the new year so maybe there will be a more satisfactory, affordable alternative by then.
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Oct 7, 2013 22:02
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800peepee51doodoo posted:e: ^^^^ or the Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 OS! Good point on the extender. And yeah, the full frame option would definitely be most beneficial for the still work.
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Oct 7, 2013 22:06
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TheQat posted:Can anyone summarize why the 1DIII is still $1200 used (same price as a new 70D with twice as many pixels)? I think I know in principle but it just kind of blows my mind
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Oct 7, 2013 22:48
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800peepee51doodoo posted:A word of warning on the extenders, if you go that route - 2x extenders slow AF focus speed by 75% along with dropping your aperture 2 stops. You can really only use them on f2.8 lenses if you use anything but a 1 series body.
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Oct 7, 2013 22:54
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I went to a MotoGP race with a guy that brought a 70-200 and 2x extender.. he tried to use it for about 30 minutes and then put it away for the whole weekend. It made everything too slow to get any kind of results. To date my favorite lens as a race photographing hobbyist has been the 300mm F4. It was just a joy to use, everything that came out of it seemed perfect. A longer prime with a bigger aperture would probably be even more fun but there are limits to what I can afford.  The 100-400 push pull came in a close second, for the same reasons anyone uses a zoom lens over a prime.
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Oct 7, 2013 23:28
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Pablo Bluth posted:I'm not sure anyone has ever really loved the x2 extender. With the right lens, the 1.4x can be part of a combo that is as good as anything else out there, and people will sing its praise. By comparison, the suggestion of using a x2 seems to be, without fail, caveated with a warning about slow AF and loss of sharpness. Well, I actually use the 2x extender mkII on my 300 f/2.8 about 90-95% of the time for what I do (birds and wildlife). The only better option available is high 4- / low 5-figure glass that I just can't afford atm. To be honest though, IQ and sharpness doesn't really suffer all that much; the main hits are to AF speed and aperture. There are some benefits, too. Having a hand-holdable 600mm with a 3m minimum focus distance is pretty awesome for what I do. It just doesn't sound like its a real advantage to sports shooting or really anything else. Just for fun the other day, I decided to try out stacking my 2x and 1.4x tc's on my 300 (840mm!) to see how well that worked. Not bad really, at least not for web postin'. Here's a house finch in my backyard: 
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Oct 8, 2013 01:46
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Edit: totally meant to post in the camera gear thread guys sorry
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Oct 8, 2013 02:42
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Combat Pretzel posted:Where outside Verviers (hope it ain't Eupen)? If you're in Germany, any Mediamarkt might do for new glass. Their prices are aligned closely to those of dedicated photographers shops. The first party stuff is usually in stock (at least stuff like 24-70 et al). Battice/Thimister Clermont  Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I ended up forcing it once more and whatever was jamming it came loose so I was able to keep using it for the rest of the trip. Now it's a bit wonky for sure so it'll be going in for repairs.
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Oct 8, 2013 14:39
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If I'm on the lookout for a used 5d3, are eBay and the Canon refurb store the best places to look? The Canon refurb prices dropped a bit, so that's starting to look like a good option.
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Oct 8, 2013 18:21
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Bubbacub posted:If I'm on the lookout for a used 5d3, are eBay and the Canon refurb store the best places to look? The Canon refurb prices dropped a bit, so that's starting to look like a good option. I am always wary of ebay. Many people would disagree with me here and I am sure that there are safe, reliable ways to buy from ebay but I am not familiar with them. keh.com is a very good source for used gear. Canon refurb is very good - almost like new. HELP! I took the plunge and picked up a 70-200 f/4 IS. It arrived yesterday and I played with it a bit after work, the lens seemed very nice and everything was working well. This morning was the Baltimore marathon and it was a good place to test out the new lens. When I grabbed my 40d this morning it would not turn on. I tried a couple of batteries, checked the CF card and couldn't get it do anything. I put the batteries I was using into my 10d and it powered on and reported a full charge. Assuming the CR2016 was dead, I went out and shot with my new lens using the 10d. After the marathon was over and I was able to get out of my neighborhood I picked up a new CR2016 only to find that my 40d will still not turn on. I get absolutely no sign that the power switch has been flipped to 'on'. Things I have tried:
Different CR2016 Batteries Manually moving the battery and CF card door closed switches Different lenses (50 1.8/17-50 2.8/70-200...) Different CF cards Something possibly unrelated that I have noticed:
I just blew my photo budget by getting the 70-200. I could still send it back, eat the shipping charges and get a new body, but I am happy with my 40d and would rather have the lens than a body upgrade. Currently the camera is sitting with both batteries out. Any ideas? jsmith114 fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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Oct 12, 2013 20:40
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emotive posted:I shoot at Lime Rock in CT mostly, but even there I'm craving more reach at 200mm and they let you get right up in the action. That's why I was planning on at the very least an extender. Also part of the reason I'm wondering if I should stick with a crop body and jump to a 7D if it's that much better than the 60D since the price has dropped quite a bit in the past few months. Hey Lime Rock buddy! I use a 70-200 f4.0 with a 2x extender on a 60D. However, especially with Lime Rock, there are places where 200mm is plenty. 400mm without IS is awful anyways without a good tripod. You can also take a look at their on track photography program. Take a look at a small project I did at Lime Rock recently. I didn't use anything past 200mm for that. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3294359&pagenumber=32#post420468771 Edit: Tell you what, I want to go usually 3 times a year, the historic, and well, the now defunct ALMS and Rolex series. If you ever want to go to a larger event like that I'll let you take a look at the lens and extender to make the decision by yourself. Just PM me. rcman50166 fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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Oct 12, 2013 22:40
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jsmith114 posted:Any ideas? I don't think that's something you can fix yourself, if that's what you mean. Repair costs are likely to be about the same as a replacement. KEH has a BGN rated 40D for $235 right now and they seem to be going for ~$250 on ebay. Canon service will probably be more than the camera is worth, tbh. If you live in a bigger city you might check around and see if there's a Canon certified independent repair shop in your area or try getting an estimate from someplace like Midwest Camera Repair. If you do end up getting a replacement, you can sell off your busted camera to help offset the cost. People buy broken cameras on ebay for more than you'd think a lot of the time.
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Oct 13, 2013 04:20
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Gambl0r posted:
Did you ever get around to doing a comparison?
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Oct 13, 2013 17:17
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TheQat posted:Can anyone summarize why the 1DIII is still $1200 used (same price as a new 70D with twice as many pixels)? I think I know in principle but it just kind of blows my mind Given a choice between the two cameras, I would choose the 1DIII over the 70D any day, but it's not for the pickles. It's for the subjects that I'm likely to shoot.
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Oct 13, 2013 17:40
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I actually ended up getting a 70D two days ago, although at the time I posted that question I wasn't even thinking about buying a new camera  I love it so far, stunning upgrade when your last SLR was a 30D!
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Oct 13, 2013 18:15
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I was thinking about picking up a 5D classic sometime in the future since it's relatively cheap for a full frame DSLR and I don't really need the more modern performance of the Mark II or III. Is there anything that I need to look out for when trying to pick one up since these cameras are at least going to be 5 years old at this point? Or has the reliability been pretty solid?
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Oct 15, 2013 01:55
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Mest0r posted:I was thinking about picking up a 5D classic sometime in the future since it's relatively cheap for a full frame DSLR and I don't really need the more modern performance of the Mark II or III. Is there anything that I need to look out for when trying to pick one up since these cameras are at least going to be 5 years old at this point? Or has the reliability been pretty solid? Look out for err99 codes or ask the seller if this has ever come up. I had a second hand 5D classic for a while that died a slow death accompanied by gradually more frequent err99's.
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Oct 15, 2013 04:04
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Mest0r posted:I was thinking about picking up a 5D classic sometime in the future since it's relatively cheap for a full frame DSLR and I don't really need the more modern performance of the Mark II or III. Is there anything that I need to look out for when trying to pick one up since these cameras are at least going to be 5 years old at this point? Or has the reliability been pretty solid? Mine has been an absolute tank with no problems at all. The image quality is fantastic below iso 800; it does lose ground pretty dramatically to the modern sensors after that. There are a few caveats you might not be aware of: There's no automatic sensor cleaning function. You have to get in there and blow the dust out every so often. It won't tether with a 64-bit OS. Automatic white balance is unreliable in indoor situations. LED screen is small and not particularly good. There's no Live View or video capability at all. With a battery grip it's heavy as hell. It's the Les Paul of DSLR's.
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Oct 15, 2013 05:09
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Canon had a recall to fix prematurely failing mirrors on the 5D. A "fixed" 5D will have reinforced mirror mountings. Just google "5D mirror recall".
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Oct 15, 2013 05:25
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To all the people who own an eos m (ie, both of you), do you have an original canon EF adapter or a dodgy third party one? Can I get away with a $40 Chinese knockoff?
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Oct 15, 2013 05:33
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BrosephofArimathea posted:To all the people who own an eos m (ie, both of you), do you have an original canon EF adapter or a dodgy third party one? Can I get away with a $40 Chinese knockoff? I tried a RainbowImag adapter and it wouldn't work, so I went with the Canon brand. I think some people have had better luck though.
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Oct 15, 2013 05:38
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I really like my 5D. Coming from a new crop body to an old FF body has it's challenges though. No auto ISO, no live view, no video, dodgy auto WB, crappy LCD, metering feels more erratic. That being said, the thing is a tank and outperforms my "modern" crop body in raw image quality quite easily. Handling is great, nice and simple. Great viewfinder, etc etc. No matter what I end up buying after this, I think I will keep it forever.
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Oct 15, 2013 18:02
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Google fails me; has anyone seen a good comparison of circular fisheye lenses for Canon fullframe? I have a Sigma 4.5mm but it's EF-S and so only good for the old 50D body - I'd like to use the 5D3 for building 360 pano virtual tours to squeeze some extra size out of my panoramas (though really if I wanted to do them pro with a fisheye I should buy a D800 or likewise for the huge mpx output). Someone posted a wideangle comparison in here ages back, and one Russian lens totally murdered everything else in the corner sharpness category - were they true fisheyes or diagonal wideangles?
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Oct 15, 2013 18:41
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The higher MP count of the D800 is a nice bonus, but the real advantage of that camera is having 14 stops of dynamic range to play with.
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Oct 15, 2013 19:26
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NoneMoreNegative posted:Google fails me; has anyone seen a good comparison of circular fisheye lenses for Canon fullframe? I have a Sigma 4.5mm but it's EF-S and so only good for the old 50D body - I'd like to use the 5D3 for building 360 pano virtual tours to squeeze some extra size out of my panoramas (though really if I wanted to do them pro with a fisheye I should buy a D800 or likewise for the huge mpx output). I would think you would want to use a rectilinear lens for constructing 360 pano tours. The source imagery would be stitched together and projected onto a spherical or cylindrical panorama in post. Real fisheye lenses are great for stills and SKATEBOARDING VIDEOS but the inherent distortion would cause problems if you tried to use it as any kind of 3D projection. In answer to your other question, I'm guessing the Russian lens you're talking about is the Peleng 8mm f/3.5. Another comparable (cost/performance) lens is the Rokinon/Samyang 8mm f/3.5 (the newer version with the removable hood). Optically, they perform similarly, although the Peleng creates a slightly smaller image circle. On a full frame, both lenses will be cropped a bit on the top, but the Peleng should be cropped off slightly less. The Peleng also has pretty lovely Soviet-esque construction compared to the Korean lens. Either one will probably be fairly sharp stopped down when it's basically like a pinhole lens.
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Oct 16, 2013 01:52
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Thanks for all the advice on the 5D! None of the pitfalls of the camera really bother me, the only thing that's kind of a nuisance is the fact that it uses CF cards. I'll probably try to hunt one out in a month or so.
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Oct 16, 2013 03:14
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Inf posted:I would think you would want to use a rectilinear lens for constructing 360 pano tours. The source imagery would be stitched together and projected onto a spherical or cylindrical panorama in post. Real fisheye lenses are great for stills and SKATEBOARDING VIDEOS but the inherent distortion would cause problems if you tried to use it as any kind of 3D projection. All the panos herein were built with the aforementioned 4.5mm circular fisheye / 50D combo: http://www.newcastle-hospitals.org.uk/services/cancer_more-support-for-you_maggies-centre.aspx The only trouble with this method is that with only 4 source images (plus zenith and nadir caps), the end resolution isn't as high as shooting 8 or more rectilinear shots... But on the plus side it's really quick once you have a handle on the procedure, I can shoot 4 cardinals, zenith and 3 tripod nadir patches in 30seconds.
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Oct 16, 2013 05:15
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Inf posted:I would think you would want to use a rectilinear lens for constructing 360 pano tours. The source imagery would be stitched together and projected onto a spherical or cylindrical panorama in post. Real fisheye lenses are great for stills and SKATEBOARDING VIDEOS but the inherent distortion would cause problems if you tried to use it as any kind of 3D projection. Almost all image based lighting panoramics for film (used for scene lighting reconstruction and environment mapping on materials) are done with an 8mm fisheye on a full frame camera with special panoramic heads (nodal ninja, et al) and then stitched using special software like PTGui.
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Oct 16, 2013 19:38
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Sorely tempted to buy this and try taking it down to the local repair shop: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251359036380&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en If it works, its a $4500 lens for almost half price. If it doesn't, it's a $2000 paperweight. Talk me out of this madness.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:10
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He's saying "no idea" but if he's selling it he's already gotten a quote and it was not worth it.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:13
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evil_bunnY posted:He's saying "no idea" but if he's selling it he's already gotten a quote and it was not worth it. True dat. Looking at the dents on the filter ring, it was dropped at least twice, or once and high enough to bounce.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:23
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Yeah, that's what I needed to hear. I'm such a low bagger. I always want to buy broken poo poo to fix because lookit how cheap it is! It usually works out ok but this one's real iffy. I'm pretty sure I've seen this lens posted up on ebay before, too, just not listed as broken.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:30
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Mest0r posted:Thanks for all the advice on the 5D! None of the pitfalls of the camera really bother me, the only thing that's kind of a nuisance is the fact that it uses CF cards. I'll probably try to hunt one out in a month or so. 12.8 megapickles even in RAW aren't that gigantic nor does it shoot that fast anyways. You'll be fine with 4-8gb cards, no need to go hog wild on super high end CF cards.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:44
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I found an auction for used 50d with "80-200mm lens" for 375. Pictures of the lens were actually an 18-200mm f3.5/5.6. I snatched it up and it came today, sure enough its the 18-200mm lens, the camera is in great condition and the shutter count is around 14k. Im pretty happy about this haul 
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Oct 18, 2013 03:32
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woot fatigue posted:Did you ever get around to doing a comparison? I didn't - I didn't think there was interest. I've only been able to take the new lens out once so far, but I can already see a pretty big improvement in sharpness even at small-ish apertures (~f/11). I sold the 1st-gen lens to a friend that I shoot with often, so I still may be able to shoot some comparison photos.
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Oct 18, 2013 13:17
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I posted this in the general questions thread but didn't get an answer.  Hope it's cool to repost. I've been shoot 600% more in the last 6 months, mostly timelapse on my canon 5dm2. I have got a splodge which appears in all photos to the left. I imagine sensor dust. Anyone got any advice on cleaning kits or ways to prevent the dust?
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Oct 19, 2013 09:48
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You don't need anything more than a one of those squeeze bulb brush things. Cleaning solutions can possibly leave residues on the sensor and they aren't necessary anyway. Just lock up the mirror and gently blow/brush the sensor while holding the camera upside down. Take a test shot of a white piece of paper to check for dust. Repeat as necessary. Preventing the dust in the first place is tough. Dust is gonna get in every time you change a lens. Just be careful when you're changing lenses and make sure they're clean when attaching them, that's about all you can do.
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Oct 19, 2013 15:43
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Don't brush the sensor with anything other than a fresh cleaning swab made specifically for your camera's sensor size. The air bulb works sometimes but sometimes you need a swab. It's not difficult to clean yourself but if you're worried about it you can pay to have a professional do it.
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Oct 20, 2013 00:03
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Even a professional can gently caress it up, I've had a friend get a free body upgrade because the shop he gave his camera to hosed it up to the point the repair bill was bigger than the worth of the camera. So yeah, be careful.
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Oct 20, 2013 00:59
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Take the time to read this and never have to pay anyone again. Also, clean your friends' sensors for quick cash! http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com/
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Oct 20, 2013 02:35
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