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Haha yeah you're right about the cars, and goddamn it's a good thing you mentioned that because one of the kits I'm going to get around to is COVERED in waterslides for the camo finish.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 02:08 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 11:10 |
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Wait I can buy a special LED unit and put it in this new MG Jesta I just bought?! Where is the cheapest place to get one of these LED units? I checked ebay and they're mostly pretty expensive for a single light unit. That or they're sold in bundles of 2 or 4, but I only have the one MG model...
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 02:22 |
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It depends on the one you want, I suppose. Bandai put out a few official ones but only in three or so colors. Pricey. I've heard people have found suitable replacements at hardware and electronics stores, and the Jesta would probably look best with a colorless LED imo.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 02:26 |
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But the Bandai ones kind of just... fit in it right? I'm guessing I might have to rig it slightly if I just get one at a hardware store.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 02:35 |
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Revitalized posted:Wait I can buy a special LED unit and put it in this new MG Jesta I just bought?! Where is the cheapest place to get one of these LED units? I checked ebay and they're mostly pretty expensive for a single light unit. That or they're sold in bundles of 2 or 4, but I only have the one MG model... where do you live? I have tons of the official ones I brought back from Japan just because they are such a pain to get over here. I dont mind shipping a fully assembled one with a battery if its domestic.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 02:38 |
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Fauxtool posted:where do you live? I have tons of the official ones I brought back from Japan just because they are such a pain to get over here. I dont mind shipping a fully assembled one with a battery if its domestic. I live in Los Angeles. How much are they over in Japan?
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 02:53 |
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they were 8.00 for a 2 packs and 4.00 for 2 batteries. i can do 5.00 for a single I'm in pasadena.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 03:09 |
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Fauxtool posted:they were 8.00 for a 2 packs and 4.00 for 2 batteries. i can do 5.00 for a single Yeah that sounds great! I guess we'll continue this over PMs? Dang those ebay prices are really inflated.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 04:51 |
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HG Victory arrived today, so I spent some time snapping it together. It's... interesting. Pretty nice looking, but for the life of me I can't seem to get it to stand up straight (both because I have no idea if I've fully pushed the pegs into the polycaps and because the legs themselves have some side-to-side movement that's loving with me). Also the ankle flaps are either ridiculously lazy or ingenious, I have no idea. They don't plug into the leg or the foot like you might think, they're just suspended between the polycap in the foot and the plug in the leg. This makes them incredibly floppy, but does give them a decent amount of movement. I can say for a fact that the torso connection is rear end though. Time to break out the Future. EDIT: Hilariously enough, this thing can bend its knees farther than the MG. It does not look pretty at full extension though. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Nov 24, 2013 |
# ? Nov 24, 2013 07:14 |
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So it doesn't look like the Unicorn Phenex is going to be an online exclusive, but it is going to be ridiculously expensive. From what I've heard, it's neck and neck with The O for most expensive Master Grade with an MSRP of 12,000 Yen. loving ridiculous for what's actually a pretty ugly looking unit in my opinion.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 07:30 |
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TARDISman posted:So it doesn't look like the Unicorn Phenex is going to be an online exclusive, but it is going to be ridiculously expensive. From what I've heard, it's neck and neck with The O for most expensive Master Grade with an MSRP of 12,000 Yen. loving ridiculous for what's actually a pretty ugly looking unit in my opinion. Ahahah gently caress that. I might pay $30 or 40 for a blue psycoframe.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 07:31 |
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Hahaha well poo poo, maybe they did decide to totally remake the molds for it after all. Good for you S-Alpha.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 07:46 |
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It'd be quite hilarious if they didn't change the mold and are only charging that much because it has those two big rear end shields and the gold finish.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 07:56 |
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So I just spent some time screwing around with my Victory and my DX, and I can firmly say that All Gundam is full of poo poo. The polycaps used between the two kits are identical, but the engineering makes actually swapping really complicated. The only things you can exchange between the two kits (and the Wing by proxy since it was actually almost identical to the DX) are the arms, the waists, and technically the thighs; the Victory's won't fit onto the DX's since its polycap is really deep in the piece, but the DX's can easily attach onto the Victory. It'll just look butt ugly because the Victory's knees were designed with the original thigh in mind, so they're kind of oversized. On a similar note you can put the DX's torso on the Victory's legs but not vice versa. This is mostly understandable (the Victory is small, of course it'd have problems), but the incompatible backpacks connectors are just inexcusable. What the gently caress Bandai, I want a Twin Satellite Cannon on my Victory. EDIT: I imagine F91 and V2 will be more compatible at least. EDIT 2: V Those are only for the Build Fighter backpacks, and they aren't adaptors as much as they're numerous different connectors. There's nothing included in the HG Victory/DX to let you put their backpacks on something else. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Nov 24, 2013 |
# ? Nov 24, 2013 08:07 |
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I thought they were including adaptors to get around those issues, in regards to the backpacks? Oh, this is something I wanted to ask. I have a bottle of Future; I usually use it for tightening joints. I don't have an airbrush, nor a garage, nor the money to get one, etc etc. What I DO have is a standard spray bottle. Future of self leveling; would I be able to fill a spray bottle with it, and spray a model with it like that? If the parts were still on the sprue or something, if nothing else? Maybe a dumb question, but, you know, gotta learn somehow. Kurui Reiten fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Nov 24, 2013 |
# ? Nov 24, 2013 08:11 |
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just dip it, shake off the excess and then dont touch it
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 08:28 |
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Yes. Though if you're just tightening joints, you should handbrush it on instead. Spray bottles are really inefficient and much better suited for larger surfaces, like model rockets or something. And even then airbrushes are better since you have way more control. Alternatively, you could just dip the joints in the Future and call it a day. EDIT: Welp.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 08:31 |
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Monaghan posted:It'd be quite hilarious if they didn't change the mold and are only charging that much because it has those two big rear end shields and the gold finish. Bet that's exactly what they're doing. The Nu v.Ka Titanium Finish is 16k yen, so it looks like a 100% price hike for special finish kits is the new normal. Ridiculous in my opinion, but I'm not the target market for this stuff. On tightening joints: spraying or dipping is total overkill for that sort of thing. Using a brush to apply directly to the joint surfaces works just fine. edit: I guess this 100% markup thing goes as far back as the Strike Freedom Extra Finish version. Nucking futs. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 09:07 on Nov 24, 2013 |
# ? Nov 24, 2013 08:53 |
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Oh, no, I don't mean tightening joints. I know how to do that, it's pretty easy. I mean to do a gloss finish.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 09:06 |
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Ah, so you did. In that case hand-brushing with a good quality brush should work fine, the Future will level to a perfectly smooth surface before drying. Sure wish paints behaved like that! edit: dipping the parts runs a very real risk of making the parts difficult or impossible to snap together - there's very little tolerance for any added thickness there, generally speaking. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Nov 24, 2013 |
# ? Nov 24, 2013 09:06 |
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Bimmi posted:Bet that's exactly what they're doing. The Nu v.Ka Titanium Finish is 16k yen, so it looks like a 100% price hike for special finish kits is the new normal. Ridiculous in my opinion, but I'm not the target market for this stuff. where are you seeing that price? I bought mine for 115k
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 09:14 |
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HLJ and HobbySearch both show the list price as ¥16000 before discounts.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 09:38 |
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Fauxtool posted:I bought mine for 115k I really hope this is a typo because otherwise .
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 09:52 |
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BlitzBlast posted:I really hope this is a typo because otherwise . 11,600 JPY i mean http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/de...0%24pagecnt%3D1
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 10:00 |
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Just got my Arche Gundam and Enact Custom in the mail. Is it fine to use the same kind of enamel paints (Testors) that I use on aircraft models? Also, about what consistency should I thin the paint to do panel lines? I've heard that it should be very watery, but from my experience detailing planes, paint this thin gets all over the place. Do you just wipe up anything that gets spread outside the lines with a paper towel, or do you run the risk of removing all the paint from the lines if you do that?
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 16:16 |
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Yes, Testors will work just fine. Doesn't matter if it's a plane or a Gundam, they're both model kits, and they both can use the same kinds of paint. You want the paint very watery; in fact, the entire panel wash process relies on the paint going "all over the place". The idea is that you have a panel line like so: |____________________________| If you just put unthinned paint in, it'll just stay in place. It's too thick to flow: |____________P_______________| But if you put heavily thinned paint in, it's basically water. And if you've ever taken a biology course, you might be familiar with something called capillary action. Anyways the thinned paint will follow the grooves of the panel line and give you: |______PPPPPPPPPPPPP________| There'll be some excess outside of the lines, but you can indeed just wipe it off with a towel. As long as you don't press down so hard that the towel enters the panel line, you won't remove anything important.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 17:56 |
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BlitzBlast posted:There'll be some excess outside of the lines, but you can indeed just wipe it off with a towel. As long as you don't press down so hard that the towel enters the panel line, you won't remove anything important. A cotton swab (q tip) is good for cleaning up too, though dabbing with the corner of the paper towel can be more precise.
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# ? Nov 24, 2013 20:44 |
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Midjack posted:A cotton swab (q tip) is good for cleaning up too, though dabbing with the corner of the paper towel can be more precise. when people say cotton swab i hope they mean the foam tipped ones you can get at a beauty supply store. The cotton ones are dreadful for any kind of detail work.
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 00:25 |
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Fauxtool posted:when people say cotton swab i hope they mean the foam tipped ones you can get at a beauty supply store. The cotton ones are dreadful for any kind of detail work. I've always used plain old cotton and never had much of a problem but I'll give those a try sometime.
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 01:08 |
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A SAL package from HLJ will take about 2-3 weeks to the UK, right? Trying to pin down what kits I want to get back into things, and with Christmas coming up I may be at my folks for a few weeks. just a pain I can't airbrush where I am.
BizarroAzrael fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Nov 25, 2013 |
# ? Nov 25, 2013 01:20 |
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Cottons swabs are fine for use on bare plastic but I'd really discourage anything that might lay down fibers if you're planning to follow with a topcoat.
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 01:49 |
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Just finished a MG Jesta, and holy crap, the differences between that and the last MG I made many years back (Titan's GM Quel) are huge - articulate hands out of the box, the increased ranged of motion for the limbs, space for LED light for the head, more layered parts for better colors without having to paint/stickered. And I mistook the seals for water decals. That said, there seems to be some redundant parts, like the top of the backpack has a connector of sorts, then covered by a small piece of armor to make the backpack looks complete. A base for when they come up with MG Jesta Cannon? Also, I have seen HG weapon packs in stores here, but no signs of any MG ones. Do those exist?
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 01:54 |
Weissritter posted:Also, I have seen HG weapon packs in stores here, but no signs of any MG ones. Do those exist? It's kind of expensive, it's called the MG Full Armor Unicorn.
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 02:27 |
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Weissritter posted:A base for when they come up with MG Jesta Cannon? Inevitably. quote:Also, I have seen HG weapon packs in stores here, but no signs of any MG ones. Do those exist? Bandai has some 1/100 mod parts in its Builders Parts line (hands, verniers, spikes, etc.) but no weapons that I'm aware of. However, Kotobukiya has a decent lineup of weapon sets for both 1/144 and 1/100 scale kits (though the product descriptions don't often make it clear which is which)
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 02:28 |
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Some new stuff courtesy of China: Daban's PG 00 Raiser is up for pre-order on Gundam Central for a limited price of 136.99. Release date is for December 5th. Also available for pre-order on Gundam Central is a limited run of Model Comprehend's 1/144 Hi-Nu Gundoom. If you want your Hi-Nu in orange and black, give it a look. On ebay, company BTF have made a 1/100 scale version of the Red Frame's Caletvwich Sword.
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 03:35 |
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I actually really want that Red Frame sword, and I'm not entirely sure why... Now I'm planning on getting a Master Grade around Christmas time, which would be a better purchase, Musha, Wing Zero Custom Pearl Gloss, or the Duel?
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 04:21 |
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Duel would be the best bang for your buck, but Musha also works if you want a time intensive project. Definitely a no on the WZC though. Old and a metallic finish? That's a recipe for disaster.
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 04:24 |
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BlitzBlast posted:Definitely a no on the WZC though. Old and a metallic finish? That's a recipe for disaster. Built that one a few months ago. It's not as bad as I was afraid it would be, but I would suggest the Duel over it by far.
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 04:29 |
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TARDISman posted:I actually really want that Red Frame sword, and I'm not entirely sure why... Wing Proto Zero. Kidding aside, i'd say go for the Musha. Get hyped up for Dynasty Warriors Gundam 4.
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 04:42 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 11:10 |
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I am actually planning on importing Shin Gundam Musou for my Vita, so I may end up going for the Musha. Also that'll give me some color variation, since the last MG I picked up was the Astray Blue Frame and my head's a little weird like that.
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# ? Nov 25, 2013 04:50 |