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ShaneB posted:I'm trying to imagine what monitorsXresolutions you are pushing with 3x290x. Why imagine when you can bask in the glory that is his post history?
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Mar 3, 2014 19:55
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I just cant justify buyin 3 screens and the poo poo that goes with it when the new rift could be out in 3 or 4 months.
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Mar 3, 2014 19:57
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Don Lapre posted:I just cant justify buyin ______ and the poo poo that goes with it when the new ______ could be out in 3 or 4 months. You see the problem with your statement don't you?
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Mar 3, 2014 20:08
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deimos posted:You see the problem with your statement don't you? Well its somewhat different. The rift is a new new thing, not just an upgraded graphics card. It could remove the need for multi monitor gaming entirely.
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Mar 3, 2014 20:22
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Don Lapre posted:I just cant justify buyin 3 screens and the poo poo that goes with it when the new rift could be out in 3 or 4 months. They have a 360-degree treadmill coming out for it too: http://www.theverge.com/2013/4/22/4253698/virtuix-omni-treadmill-oculus-rift-integration-kickstarter-pricing I'm not totally swept up in the hype (I paid $10 to play Dactyl Nightmare in a PC-arcade two decades ago), but we're talking "multi-monitors" vs. "Enter The Matrix @ 1080p". It is supposed to have a 90 degree horizonal span, so turning all the way left or right or behind you is going to give a total of four 1080p "screens" without the cost of having them all up at the same time.
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Mar 3, 2014 20:36
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This might be a long shot with something in beta and so new, but maybe someone knows. I was using shadowplay with a single 660TI and it worked fantastic. I experienced a 3-5 fps drop at most. I've read that nvidia warns there will be a "greater" performance hit with SLI setups, but even if that were 2x, 3x, or even 4x the performance hit I wouldn't be concerned. But I go from 120-180 fps in BF4 to, maybe, 20. Or less. Completely unplayable. I wiped my drivers and reinstalled the way nvidia says to. Does anybody know anything I could do here? It's not all that that important but I've gotten so used to ALT F10 mash after a particularly badass event.
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Mar 3, 2014 21:05
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veedubfreak posted:So I discovered this weekend that my 1100w PSU isn't enough to power my 3 290x cards at full tilt, even without an overclock on them You should use this calculator. It'll give a nice approximation of your system load with 3x290X. Wait, weren't you running three 290X before?
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Mar 3, 2014 22:04
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Tried to play some demo that came with Mass Effect 3, and when using the game in fullscreen so that all 3 290x ran, my machine shut down
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GrizzlyCow posted:You should use this calculator. It'll give a nice approximation of your system load with 3x290X. Wait, weren't you running three 290X before? He was running 2 then some traitor switched from team red and sold his EK blocked 290(x)s.
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Mar 3, 2014 22:26
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veedubfreak posted:So I discovered this weekend that my 1100w PSU isn't enough to power my 3 290x cards at full tilt, even without an overclock on them  so much power, holy poo poo. Which 1100W model are you running right now?I should see what jonnyGURU has torn apart recently, I'm morbidly curious to see what topologies and control schemes folks are using these days. I'm sure analog has prevailed for the longest time due to cost and relative simplicity, but digital supplies are starting to crop up more and more.
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Mar 3, 2014 23:42
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Hey all, So out of curiosity, I've tried to find the answer but have seen conflicting answers, so thought I'd post it here. If I currently have a custom-cooled Geforce GTX 780 (MSI Lightning) and due to what appears to be MSI's discontinuation of the line, I am unable to pick up another for SLI. I'm not so worried about having matching cards at this point, and have read that it is ok to use another 780 and that the lowest of the clocks will be what both are clocked at. I've read that in such a situation though, it'd best to go with a blower for the second card, but then some people say to use it on top due to the reduced opening not being so optimal for the open air, custom-cooled cards, while others have indicated it's best to have the blower on the bottom since it'll take out most of the heat produced and so the custom cooled card above won't pull in much hot air. I'm thinking it'd be better to have the blower as the top card, but wanted to get all of your input. I have a Corsair Air 540 with 2x Prolimatech PRO USV-14s in the front blowing directly toward the cards/etc. also.
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Mar 4, 2014 06:07
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SourKraut posted:Hey all, You want the custom cooled card on the bottom because they need open area around them to function well. The blower on the top will do fine, as they take most of their air from the end of the card.
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Mar 4, 2014 08:09
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7950 Boost is back (essentially) as the AMD Radeon R9 280. So, at $279, a reasonable card, but if 280X was available at $299 right now, there'd be no point to it. AMD can't actually get cards into gamers' hands these days.
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Mar 4, 2014 15:19
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HalloKitty posted:7950 Boost is back (essentially) as the AMD Radeon R9 280. I bought an open-box 7950 from Microcenter for $188 a year and a half ago... those were the days. Edit: What I'm implying is I think up to this point it was only the retailers taking advantage of the alt-coin rush, now I think AMD is getting in on it with an MSRP like that. Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 15:55
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veedubfreak posted:I ran a 690 for about 6 months and it was every bit as good as 2 680s, but I water cooled it and overclocked the piss out of it. Except in games that did not support SLI, where only 1 chip would actually work. I actually "downgraded" to a 7970 because in the event of a game that does not have SLI support, the 7970 was the stronger card. Could you verify that it's actually your PSU? The powerdown you mention can also be triggered by heat/over voltage (I know you're not OCing at the moment and running liquid cooling). Had a VERY similar thing happen with dual r9 290s on a 1200w PSU and it turned out I forgot to plug one of the fans in  I guess it's possible. Each card has 300w+ power draw. So you're looking at 900-1000w just video cards alone. Time to find a 2Kwatt PSU 
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Mar 4, 2014 16:08
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I don't think they make power supplies that hefty for residential loads. A rig with 3 300W cards already pretty much calls for bringing an electrician by to run a separate circuit off the mains distributor panel just for that rig. If you're lucky you could fit the terminal on that circuit too, but I wouldn't hook a laser printer up with it.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:37
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Sir Unimaginative posted:I don't think they make power supplies that hefty for residential loads. I actually have to run my computer off of my kitchen outlet because it will trip the circuit in the living room. My tv/receiver/surround + computer = snap and me going outside to turn the breaker back on. As far as everything being plugged in, if I had missed something it would have cropped up before now. Heat is not an issue neither is voltage as the cards are all running on a stock XFX 290x bios. Cpu is only overclocked to 4.3k cause I really see no reason to go higher as it really isn't a bottleneck. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171034 PSU in question. It has less than 6 months of use on it. According to the calculator I used yesterday 1100 should just -barely- cover me.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:49
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veedubfreak posted:I actually have to run my computer off of my kitchen outlet because it will trip the circuit in the living room. My tv/receiver/surround + computer = snap and me going outside to turn the breaker back on. Umm, did you notice that thing has a bajillion rails? Are you maybe overloading one of them? Get your owner's manual and balance them rails. (Also that PSU is from before CM went with Seasonic for their higher end stuff, so it might be poo poo inside.) If you do upgrade your only real choices are Seasonic (1250W single rail), Super Flower (1300W single rail) or Enermax (1600W 6 rails). Also at your current load you're looking at pretty much a dedicated 15A circuit according to NEC, you're way too close to the 80% rule from just a single device. Kitchen saves you because you're maybe running a 20A circuit in there. deimos fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 16:57
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Man I've been trying to make vsync work since I SLI'd and while it looks really, really really good, the input lag is just unbearable for first person shooters. I really thought it was going to be unnoticeable and just people sperging about numbers but it was shocking. Vsync smooth seems better but it will kick down to 30 fps seemingly randomly. Which is strange since I, supposedly, don't dip below 100 at all when vsync is just off. Adaptive is even worse at dropping to 30 fps when almost nothing is happening. Is there a way to graph my fps in a nice chart like you see in benchmarks? I'd just leave it off but vsync just looks so good. Otherwise it's still very smooth but I'll notice the occasional stutter. I'm not sure it's tearing unless I just can't see it happening, but there are noticeable stutters.
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Mar 4, 2014 17:35
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veedubfreak posted:I actually have to run my computer off of my kitchen outlet because it will trip the circuit in the living room. My tv/receiver/surround + computer = snap and me going outside to turn the breaker back on. Not sure how you ended up with a Cooler Master PSU (then again, don't know too much about that model), but my advice is to see if you can hook this poo poo up to its own 230V supply, because at the loads you're pulling, it'll not only require less ridiculous cabling, it'll be noticeably more efficient, which may even help you squeak by. Obviously in the UK all our cabling is 230-240V, so we can pull about 3kW from any socket in theory. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 17:40
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veedubfreak posted:I actually have to run my computer off of my kitchen outlet because it will trip the circuit in the living room. My tv/receiver/surround + computer = snap and me going outside to turn the breaker back on. I'm running 680's in triple SLI on a Corsair AX1200i, I'm probably an idiot and your cards pull more wattage than mine do, but I've got mine overclocked as well and have never had a shutdown yet. Another handy feature is the PSU will give you a nice readout on how much power we waste with our stupid SLI Rigs! Also platinum certified instead of silver. Hey, who DOESN'T want to pay 350 dollars on a power supply, right? 
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Mar 4, 2014 19:06
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deimos posted:He was running 2 then some traitor switched from team red and sold his EK blocked 290(x)s.  There's still one left.
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Mar 4, 2014 19:17
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originalnickname posted:I'm running 680's in triple SLI on a Corsair AX1200i, I'm probably an idiot and your cards pull more wattage than mine do, but I've got mine overclocked as well and have never had a shutdown yet. Another handy feature is the PSU will give you a nice readout on how much power we waste with our stupid SLI Rigs! Also platinum certified instead of silver. Hey, who DOESN'T want to pay 350 dollars on a power supply, right? For $330 you can get Lepa's Enermax-built 1600W monster, also according to Jonny the USB interfaces on those things are stupidly inaccurate and make sleep incredibly inefficient. HalloKitty posted:Not sure how you ended up with a Cooler Master PSU (then again, don't know too much about that model), but my advice is to see if you can hook this poo poo up to its own 230V supply, because at the loads you're pulling, it'll not only require less ridiculous cabling, it'll be noticeably more efficient, which may even help you squeak by. That doesn't quite work in the US, europeans get single phase 240V which is what PSUs can handle, in the US you'd have two phase 208V and PSUs are simply not wired that way. deimos fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 19:34
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q!=e
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Mar 4, 2014 19:42
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deimos posted:That doesn't quite work in the US, europeans get single phase 240V which is what PSUs can handle, in the US you'd have two phase 208V and PSUs are simply not wired that way. For some reason it never clicked that the high voltage appliances in US homes were two phase. I should have checked before making an ill-informed comment. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 19:46
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deimos posted:That doesn't quite work in the US, europeans get single phase 240V which is what PSUs can handle, in the US you'd have two phase 208V and PSUs are simply not wired that way.
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Mar 4, 2014 19:51
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deimos posted:Umm, did you notice that thing has a bajillion rails? Are you maybe overloading one of them? Get your owner's manual and balance them rails. (Also that PSU is from before CM went with Seasonic for their higher end stuff, so it might be poo poo inside.) I bought this PSU probably 5 years ago when I ran my TRI-SLI 285 setup, but the PSU apparently did not play nice with the X58 Evga board I had at the time and ended up on a shelf until I sold that board and bought my Ivy Bridge setup. It's not actually possible for me to adjust how the loads are working due to basically each card using it's own rail and having nothing other than the cpu and pumps really pulling much amperage. I'm looking at either the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438011 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817194106. Both got near perfect scores on johnnyguru. Hmm, the enermax seems to have a lot of DOA units on Newegg. Ugh, it's looking like pretty much all PSU makers are horrible to deal with if you have to RMA. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 20:25
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veedubfreak posted:I bought this PSU probably 5 years ago when I ran my TRI-SLI 285 setup, but the PSU apparently did not play nice with the X58 Evga board I had at the time and ended up on a shelf until I sold that board and bought my Ivy Bridge setup. It's not actually possible for me to adjust how the loads are working due to basically each card using it's own rail and having nothing other than the cpu and pumps really pulling much amperage. I'm looking at either the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438011 or 1600W 
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Mar 4, 2014 20:50
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Hope you have 20amp wiring/outlets.
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Mar 4, 2014 21:00
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Don Lapre posted:Hope you have 20amp wiring/outlets. The house is only 5 years old, pretty sure it's up to spec.
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Mar 4, 2014 21:17
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veedubfreak posted:The house is only 5 years old, pretty sure it's up to spec. If you can wait and want to go crazy with an overbuilt digital power supply, corsair announced their upcoming AX1500i recently. It's even 80 Plus Titanium so you can save on those power bills 
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Mar 4, 2014 21:21
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Is there even any chance after the next die shrink that Skywell with a pile of Maxwell GPUs in SLI will be able to break 1000 watts? After seeing what the 750 series can do and then die shrinking that, and with smaller processes leaving less overclocking room, I don't see how it's going to be possible.
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Mar 4, 2014 21:29
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Arn't the real maxwell chips expected to be 20nm?
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Mar 4, 2014 21:48
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That's what I'm saying, from 28 now down to 20, on top of the 750's doubling performance per watt over the rest of the 700 series.
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Mar 4, 2014 21:53
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veedubfreak posted:I bought this PSU probably 5 years ago when I ran my TRI-SLI 285 setup, I think this might be a little of your PSU woes. It's 5 years old and probably saw a high load a few hours at a time. I doubt my 4/5 year old Corsair 1000HX could do 1000w, probably only like 940-950w now. Biggest load I put on it SLI'd 460s or my HD 4870 X2 with 8800GTX PhysX. Don't bust a cap man! No one deserves getting a cap bust on them!
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Mar 4, 2014 21:54
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veedubfreak posted:The house is only 5 years old, pretty sure it's up to spec. Spec or not, that computer changes the requirements of your house, NEC dictates pretty much a dedicated 15A circuit for that monster (or running on "above spec" 20A circuits), most outlet circuits are 15A except kitchen and dedicated outlets. (Why? Because home builders are cheapskates.) deimos fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 21:56
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Animal posted:You want the custom cooled card on the bottom because they need open area around them to function well. The blower on the top will do fine, as they take most of their air from the end of the card. Thanks! That's what I was thinking earlier today but wanted to double check since everyone here is more knowledgeable than I.
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Mar 4, 2014 22:02
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veedubfreak posted:I bought this PSU probably 5 years ago when I ran my TRI-SLI 285 setup, but the PSU apparently did not play nice with the X58 Evga board I had at the time and ended up on a shelf until I sold that board and bought my Ivy Bridge setup. It's not actually possible for me to adjust how the loads are working due to basically each card using it's own rail and having nothing other than the cpu and pumps really pulling much amperage. I'm looking at either the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438011 or You may want a second or third opinion on those. TPU reviewed the MaxRevo and the Supernova G2. You could also take a look at the Antec's High Current Pro Platnium 1300W power supply. [H] gave it high marks. The Enermax Platimax is also available and a little cheaper. OklahomaWolf's review and [H]'s review. If you don't mind the missing losing 50W in capacity, you could go with the Seasonic X-1250, or the slightly lower quality XFX Pro Series 1250W. Hard to find it in stock. JonnyGuru for X-1250, [H] for X-1250, and PCPer. For the XFX PSU, JonnyGuru, [H], TPU, et cetera. You could also get that Lepa 1600W.
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Mar 4, 2014 22:50
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GrizzlyCow posted:You may want a second or third opinion on those. Keep in mind the Lepa and the Platimax 1600 are pretty much same thing (even the packaging).
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Mar 4, 2014 22:53
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I recently upgraded to a GTX 760 and am using my old GTX 480 as a dedicated PhysX card (and electric bill increaser). I obviously have more dollars than sense, and now I am thinking of replacing the GTX 480 with a used GTX 650 Ti for PhysX duty, but will I see a performance increase? I will at least see my electric bill go down a dollar or so a month, probably, and gaming won't give me heat stroke in the Texas summer, at least.
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Mar 5, 2014 15:41
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Get a GTX 750 if you want a PhysX card, it has nearly the same performance/price as the 650Ti, and with a meager 60W TDP (less than 1/4 of your 480!). As a PhysX card it'll be slightly weaker than your 480, but considering how few games even use PhysX I wouldn't sweat that too much, though you could always move up to the 750Ti if you want to (it has the same 60 TDP as well). Further reading: http://alienbabeltech.com/main/using-maxwells-gtx-750-ti-dedicated-physx-card/ 
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Mar 5, 2014 16:06
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