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The thermostat housing on my Ranger 2.3L is a real mother bitch, too. Timing cover is right there in the way, as is a wiring harness, and it's real easy to let the stat get cockeyed in the housing trying to fit it past all that poo poo and get it bolted down. I did mine about half a dozen times before I finally got it right, and with the correct stat, too.
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Mar 14, 2014 18:06
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kastein posted:Assuming that the fuel level sender shows more fuel as a higher resistance, you should check the black/olive green traced wire at connectors 415 (at the fuel pump), 148, and 160. Measure voltage to ground at each point, anything over say 100 millivolts is probably cause for concern. If it isn't that, I bet it's a corroded pin in the signal wiring from the sender to the instrument panel... which is a yellow wire with a white tracer and goes through all the same connectors. Update on the Expedition: We tested the float out of the tank by manually moving it to the top and bottom of it's travel. The gauge never went below 1/8th of a tank with the float at the bottom, and indeed, it does go about 1/8th of a tank over full with the float at the top of it's travel. Also checked what the ECU was reporting on our scan tool, and it matched the gauge, give or take. To satisfy my own curiosity, I ordered a GENUINE MOTORCRAFT fuel pump and ran the same test, and the gauge is working normally. So clearly there is something not exactly correct in the way this sending unit reports its information to the ECU on this vehicle. I'm on very good terms with my parts suppliers so that allowed me to buy the OE part on my charge account for testing, and return it later that day. I called the customer and explained the situation. I offered him the option of paying the difference between the precision pump and the motorcraft pump (about $100) and we would install the OE part labor free, OR, just make a mental note, maybe even a note on the dash, that 1/8th tank is the new empty. He chose the latter, as he does not plan on owning the vehicle very much longer. Status: resolved.  OneOverZero posted:Last legs or not, if this is a clean as it looks, I absolutely WOULD fly cross-country if said owner is interested in selling. I'll feel him out for you, have some more pictures in the meantime. It absolutely was the head gasket leaking oil on the passengers side. Pretty badly, too, as the customer described it, "pooling", and towed it in. The drivers seat is badly worn out and collapsed on the left side. I find this infuriating, I have no idea how the owner drives like that, but I also have a bigger rear end. Also, there is some kind of problem with the neutral safety switch that got 'fixed' years and years ago by installing a start button. I wasn't around yet for that job so I can only tell you what I've been told.         Meanwhile! I get to fire a customer today! Check out this piece of crap '02 Mitsubishi Galant.  The customer is a broke student and known idiot. They have hosed us on quite literally every job we've ever done on their car. I spent far too long in college myself, so I "get" the broke student lifestyle. Because of this, I am sympathetic to their situation, and try to help them out within reason. This person, however has pissed me off for the last time. First time they came in, THEIR FRIEND WHO KNOWS ABOUT CARS (this is a common theme with this customer) says they needed a new alternator, but couldn't install it. We very graciously installed a customer supplied part (no warranty expressed or implied) and ate the loss in profit on the part, hoping it would earn their business in the future. No big deal. Second time they came in, the lube-n-tune or whatever by their house had diagnosed a bad right rear wheel hub while they were there for an oil change. "OH NO NO!" they said, "I'M GOING TO MY MECHANIC WHO I TRUST!!". They arrive at the shop, we confirm the diagnosis (which I was not expecting coming in hot from a lube-n-tune), and write an estimate parts & labor to repair it. It was a nominal amount more than the lube-n-tune's estimate, so they went back there to have that job done. I didn't charge them diagnosis time, again trying to earn their future business and establish trust, but in hindsight, I really should have. Third time they came in, it would not idle. After ruling out all the easy poo poo, we found a crack in the weld on the intake manifold, creating a gigantic vacuum leak. Once again, our estimate was too rich for their blood, and THEIR FRIEND WHO KNOWS ABOUT CARS (the one who couldn't install an alternator) had offered to fix it for much, much less. That's their choice, and I understand why they would choose that option given their situation, so I charged them a full hour of diag time and sent them on their merry way. I got a call a week or so later and come to find out, THEIR FRIEND WHO KNOWS ABOUT CARS could not locate a replacement manifold at any price. They did not call me to schedule the repair, but rather, ask where I had found the part. Unbelievable!! "JUNKYARD" I told them, it was a lie, but I've got to protect my profit at this point in the relationship, and so "If you want the job done, you may schedule it with me" was my final answer. After that I figured we'd never see them again, they got pissed at me for not divulging my parts source. About a month ago they came in, the car is misfiring and shuddering something fierce. We diagnose bad valve cover gasket leaking oil into the plug holes, which in turn causes a misfire. To make matters worse, all 3 engine and the 1 trans mount are shot (guess who just replaced those!!), and the engine is doing it's best paint shaker impersonation. I told them we were far too busy to take on any more work at this time, basically politely yet firmly told them we don't want their business. They called me every tuesday morning for the next month to see how busy we were, and if their job could be scheduled. That kind of persistence must have struck a cord with my sales background, or maybe I thought they had finally learned that the cheapest job is not the cheapest job. But for whatever reasons I scheduled them in for yesterday morning, completely against my better judgement. God I should have gone with my gut on this one. The car was dropped off very early yesterday morning, before I got to the shop, and the mechanic who opened the shop and took the car in did not get a signature on the work order, officially approving the work. Usually not that big a deal, and mostly an unnecessary formality for the vast majority of good honest people we do work for. For this particular customer, however, I really needed a signed work order for peace of mind. By the time I got to the shop the mechanic has already removed and replaced all 4 engine/trans mounts, and was working on the valve cover gasket and tune up. This is a great time to illustrate why the 'book time' is a big loving liar for a lot of jobs. This valve cover comes off in no time at all, and the entire remove & replace gasket job pays .5 hours by the book, BUT that is assuming the old gasket is still pliable and comes out in one piece. It didn't.    New gasket is blue, must be for RACIN'.  As you can see, the old gasket was so brittle and baked-on that it literally had to be dug out of the valve cover piece by lovely piece, taking significantly longer than the half hour book time. C'est la vie, life goes on, can't change the quote now, nothing worth getting worked up over. The job was finished, and the invoice written up. I call the customer and they claim that they did not want the mounts done, only valve cover and tune up. What? I'm holding here in my possession as I type this the work order which very clearly says otherwise. After much back and forth I tell them they can either pay for the job or I'll put a lien on the vehicle. Of course they didn't sign the work order, so I guess technically legally speaking they did not approve any of the work, but we for sure talked about doing all of it, or I wouldn't have written it down on the work order. I'm really not trying to be an rear end in a top hat, I swear!  The customer eventually became irate and hung up on me, I parked the vehicle inside and have not heard from them since, but this will absolutely be the last time we touch that vehicle. 
DrPain fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Mar 15, 2014 |
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Mar 14, 2014 22:18
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Do yourself a favor and spring the 5 bucks for new exhaust manifold studs on that 4.0 head... last time I dropped a longblock in an XJ, the rear one snapped off just below the surface of the head as I was tightening the last few manifold bolts, which was about the last step before taking it for a test drive. I swore a lot and after determining there was absolutely no way I could get a drill on it properly without removing the head or engine from the vehicle, decided it could loving run without that stud and it could LIKE it. Nearly two years later it sounds like an F250 with a few screws loose, but the engine's coming back out for a trans swap in, oh, a few hours, so I'll deal with it then. Oh, the #11 head bolt gets thread sealant on it. I forget which is #11 but I think it's the one at the front driver side over the water pump... you can see down its bore into the water jacket. Forgetting that sucks, but at least (iirc) it's one of the ones that doesn't land under the valve cover, and it's easily accessed after assembly, so you can pull it back out, seal it up, and slap it in without much fuss if you forget  That customer sounds like one that won't be missed, seeing as they don't really give you money as it is.
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Mar 14, 2014 22:29
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You always wanted a shop project car. now you have one.
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Mar 14, 2014 22:54
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cursedshitbox posted:You always wanted a shop project car. now you have one. If I end up owning this car I will set it on fire. That is not hyperbole. Good lookin' out on the Jeep, Ken. You are, as always, a master of your craft.
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Mar 14, 2014 23:55
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I'm currently contemplating a rather sloppy slipshod shortcut on my DD XJ and I just described a previous one that I did and have been pointedly ignoring for two years, so you might want to hold the praise. 
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Mar 15, 2014 01:26
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Huggable Bear King posted:Ugh I did this recently, tried to replace a thermostat having never done it before because it looked easy on youtube. Turns out it's super easy - unless you over torque the bolts, snap them off so they have to be drilled out and unknowingly crack the intake manifold in the process. I cursed and swore at my 2L golf for an hour when I tried to do the thermostat and the socket . Tried to rig up all sorts of ways to get a grip on the bolt since it is in a super tight space. Nothing worked so I decided to put it back together. I went to put the top bolt in and noticed it was a flanged hex head...with hex socket. I got out the 13mm socket and the lower bolt came out first try. Felt pretty stupid on that one but I really wasn't expecting a combo socket head/hex head bolt.
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Mar 15, 2014 02:50
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Huh, well I actually feel much better about that little gently caress up now. That Jeep is in great shape, my co-worker has one like that(sans wood paneling) with 330k on it. I think the rust will kill it before the engine goes. My parents pos Sebring coupe didn't make it past 80k before the transmission took a poo poo.
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Mar 15, 2014 08:17
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Huggable Bear King posted:Huh, well I actually feel much better about that little gently caress up now. It paid the Chrysler price 
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Mar 15, 2014 16:28
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The customer with the '02 Mitsubishi came by this morning with someone pretending to be a lawyer. I say pretending because the person refused to identify them self and dodged the question when I asked "Sir, have you passed the bar?" and "Sir, are you an officer of the law?" and "Sir, is your name on the title of the vehicle?". They made all kinds of vague and empty legal threats, droning on about unauthorized work and quoting the Nevada Revised Statues to me as if I don't know the ridiculous draconian letter of the law by which I am unfortunately governed. After much arguing, I had one of my guys pull the new engine mounts back off, and re-install their lovely broken mounts. I told them in no uncertain terms that we don't want their business anymore. In the course of our argument I explained how we have lost money quite literally every time that miserable car has been in our shop, and I had him holding back laughter after maybe 15 minutes because even he could see how goddamn ridiculous the situation is. We operate on mutual trust and respect, and do good honest work for good honest people. While I understand what the law states, it would be absurd to operate in full compliance of the letter of the law, requiring customers to sign their name in writing to every stupid dollar we want them to spend. Absolutely no work gets done that way, let's be real. The van is up and running, although we had some problems getting timing set. First we had the distributor 180 degrees out, then we had plug wires on #5 and #7 crossed. But once we found our mistakes, it set crank/cam correlation easy peasy and now runs like an absolute champ. Took it out on a test drive and it had developed a severe water leak from the water pump. We warrantied it out and, fingers crossed, god willing, that'll be it!!! I called the customer with the good news and they were elated. See you in 500 miles for an oil change, my good sir. Guess how many pieces of paper the van owner signed before we did literal thousands of dollars of repairs? If you guessed none, then you are correct!!   In other shop goings on, the aforementioned '06 GTO returned for the previously diagnosed a/c job!  We fixed a fuel vapor smell by installing a new gas cap on a 94 suburban! Work continues on the jeep!
DrPain fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Mar 18, 2014 |
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Mar 17, 2014 23:51
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Does Nevada not have some kind of clause where phone authorisation is equivalent to a physical signature? That's what happens in NZ and it is a legally valid method.
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Mar 18, 2014 00:43
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Slavvy posted:Does Nevada not have some kind of clause where phone authorisation is equivalent to a physical signature? That's what happens in NZ and it is a legally valid method. No, and this wanna-be lawyer friend harped on that fact with extreme conviction.
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Mar 18, 2014 00:45
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gently caress that guy in the arse. seriously. It seems to be a thing almost anywhere though. I've had poo poo like this happen to me a time or two. Hot checks are my personal favorites though.
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Mar 18, 2014 01:12
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I've gotta say, the fact that you have a direct, personal stake in your successes and somehow manage to run the shop without being an absolute piece of poo poo is genuinely heart-warming.  Makes every small victory and job well done seem like an immense achievement instead of just more digits on the bottom line.
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Mar 18, 2014 01:17
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cursedshitbox posted:gently caress that guy in the arse. seriously. It seems to be a thing almost anywhere though. I've had poo poo like this happen to me a time or two. Can I sublet your expert, discreet, rear end wrecking services?  The only thing that concerns me now is that Mitsubishi has way more problems lurking, timing belt is not in good shape, for example, and I just have a funny feeling that whatever, whenever something else brakes it'll be my fault in their lovely opinion. I do not accept personal checks, and I kind of even hate waiting 30 days net for some of my bigger contractor type accounts. Slavvy posted:I've gotta say, the fact that you have a direct, personal stake in your successes and somehow manage to run the shop without being an absolute piece of poo poo is genuinely heart-warming. My bottom line has seen better days, for what it's worth, but thank you. 
DrPain fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Mar 18, 2014 |
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Mar 18, 2014 01:35
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DrPain posted:Can I sublet your expert, discreet, rear end wrecking services? Anything for a friend!
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Mar 18, 2014 01:41
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DrPain posted:I do not accept personal checks, and I kind of even hate waiting 30 days net for some of my bigger contractor type accounts. Not even the same line of work, but the pizza place I currently deliver for is the first one I've worked in about 10 years that accepts checks. Though I only handle a couple of them a week, we still have a bunch of checks bounce (I'd guess 5-10% of them). More than credit card disputes for sure. Pretty sure one I took today will bounce - temporary check  which we normally won't take, but she claimed she hadn't gotten her debit card yet (which is probably true since she's rocking temp checks). The account is from a bank that mostly deals with people with poor banking history (one of those that primarily has branches inside of Wal-Mart, and charges fees for every-loving-thing you can imagine, including just checking your balance at an ATM - I used them briefly years ago). Only reason I accepted it is I've delivered to her is she's a semi-regular. Boss wasn't too happy about it.
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Mar 18, 2014 03:40
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Update on the van, I just called the dealer for core pickup, and was informed that there is no core deposit. So I've got an entirely rebuild-able Chevy 305. Now I kind of wish I was able to snag that 92 Geo, because I already found a carb/manifold/rebuild kit. some texas redneck posted:Not even the same line of work, but the pizza place I currently deliver for is the first one I've worked in about 10 years that accepts checks. Though I only handle a couple of them a week, we still have a bunch of checks bounce (I'd guess 5-10% of them). More than credit card disputes for sure. It's a little different when I'm risking hundreds or potentially thousands of dollars though. I don't think a bad check on a $20 pizza will sink you guys, but yeah it sounds like that lady didn't want pizza all that badly then. DrPain fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Mar 18, 2014 |
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Mar 18, 2014 19:03
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No core deposit on the block? Thats.... unusual. Being in Vegas, how often do you deal with the poo poo boxes from new england/midwest that's more rust than metal?
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Mar 18, 2014 19:07
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BrokenKnucklez posted:No core deposit on the block? Thats.... unusual. Right? I guess the 305 is slated for obsolescence and the dealer has enough in stock that they don't want the cores back anymore. We vary rarely see transplanted vehicles, and the ones that do show up usually spent at most 2 or 3 years back east so what rust did accumulate isn't going anywhere now.
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Mar 18, 2014 19:09
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I mean a 305 can be built to produce some power, but I guess its easier/cheaper to go LSX/350 route.
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Mar 18, 2014 19:18
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That 305 belongs in a Fiero.
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Mar 18, 2014 19:38
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Is it even worth rebuilding these? I'm looking at like $800-$1000 in (new) parts alone. My gut says no when a new long block can be had for twice that. Maybe if I could find a salvage manifold, but even at that, I'm not sure I want to spend that money on a 305. DrPain fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Mar 18, 2014 |
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Mar 18, 2014 20:08
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I mean a 305 can be built to produce some power, but I guess its easier/cheaper to go LSX/350 route. Except that everything you do on a 305 to make power, will make twice that on a big-bore SBC (302, 327, 350, 383, 400). A running 305, freshly rebuilt or otherwise, is pretty much only worthwhile to someone looking for the cheapest SBC they can throw into a given vehicle - and given the cost of a running used 350, that sets the bar pretty drat low. I wouldn't waste your time, either sell it as-is or haul it to a scrapyard.
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Mar 18, 2014 20:21
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IOwnCalculus posted:Except that everything you do on a 305 to make power, will make twice that on a big-bore SBC (302, 327, 350, 383, 400).  That's about what I thought, rats. I'll give it to my junk man next time he comes a calling.
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Mar 18, 2014 20:27
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Yeah, a 305 is pretty much a boat anchor. Like IOC said, you can make power with them, but the same modifications would yield way more power and better driveability on any other SBC. Scrap it, sell it to some fool, or make a lovely coffee table out of it.
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Mar 18, 2014 20:30
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bandman posted:Yeah, a 305 is pretty much a boat anchor. Like IOC said, you can make power with them, but the same modifications would yield way more power and better driveability on any other SBC. Scrap it, sell it to some fool, or make a lovely coffee table out of it. Beat me to the boat anchor comment. The best place for that 305 is on the end of a chain.
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Mar 18, 2014 20:43
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DrPain posted:Is it even worth rebuilding these? I'm looking at like $800-$1000 in (new) parts alone. My gut says no when a new long block can be had for twice that. Give me a list of donors for the manifold and I can probably find you one for $30-50 up here. Though you can probably get a whole good running takeout 305 for drat near free instead of fixing that one. About the best thing I can say about them is that (iirc) they bolt into the same spot as a 350, so if you want a mockup block for almost nothing that you can use to plan a swap, a 305's fine for it. Rip everything out of the thing and just use it as a lighter weight lego block shaped like your motor, set everything up, then take it out and replace with a real motor during final assembly.
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Mar 18, 2014 20:49
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kastein posted:Give me a list of donors for the manifold and I can probably find you one for $30-50 up here. Though you can probably get a whole good running takeout 305 for drat near free instead of fixing that one. Very kind of you to offer, but I'm going to fold this hand. I dig the coffee table idea, though, or perhaps a wine rack, if I can't get more than $100 scrap for it. DrPain fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Mar 18, 2014 |
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Mar 18, 2014 21:09
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You have me worried about being fired from my mechanic. I'm taking our car there tomorrow after an acquaintance did work on and now it doesn't for poo poo. He's a mechanic, but apparently didn't think a multiple cylinder misfire, blowing plumes of gas, and having about 1/3 of the power as before was in any way cause for concern.
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Mar 18, 2014 21:12
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dreesemonkey posted:You have me worried about being fired from my mechanic. I'm taking our car there tomorrow after an acquaintance did work on and now it doesn't for poo poo. He's a mechanic, but apparently didn't think a multiple cylinder misfire, blowing plumes of gas, and having about 1/3 of the power as before was in any way cause for concern. You reminded me of a big pet peeve I had with a local shop. I had a transmission shop replace the shifter shaft seal on my Mazdaspeed3 because at the time there was fuckall for documentation on how to do it, and it was cheap to do. When we picked it up the shifter felt like you had to force it through every gate, because the cables had frayed during the repair - but they didn't feel like mentioning it. I didn't even blame them because the cables had clearly been fraying for a while, but it still would've been nice to loving know.
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Mar 18, 2014 21:17
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dreesemonkey posted:You have me worried about being fired from my mechanic. I'm taking our car there tomorrow after an acquaintance did work on and now it doesn't for poo poo. He's a mechanic, but apparently didn't think a multiple cylinder misfire, blowing plumes of gas, and having about 1/3 of the power as before was in any way cause for concern. Did the shop return the vehicle to you in this condition? I'm confused, but from what I gather, you had a shadetree mechanic do some work, he hosed it all up, and now you're taking it to the professionals for a proper fix? That's nothing I would fire someone over, hell it's how I meet a lot of customers for the first time.
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Mar 18, 2014 21:24
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dreesemonkey posted:You have me worried about being fired from my mechanic. I'm taking our car there tomorrow after an acquaintance did work on and now it doesn't for poo poo. He's a mechanic, but apparently didn't think a multiple cylinder misfire, blowing plumes of gas, and having about 1/3 of the power as before was in any way cause for concern. Like DrPain said... Also it sounds like getting fired from that mechanic is the best thing that could happen to you.
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Mar 18, 2014 21:40
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It amuses me that people still write hot checks. I guess no one realizes they are legally binding contracts, your signature makes it a direct act of fraud, and its really the only type of financial fuckery that can instantly get you thrown in the slammer. Not to mention hot checks are credit rating and loan DEATH. I've had a sheriff show up at my mom's door while I was in Iraq for a 5 dollar check (id theft). You can easily run up 50k in credit card debt and never even see a legal action land on you.
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Mar 18, 2014 22:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:You reminded me of a big pet peeve I had with a local shop. I had a transmission shop replace the shifter shaft seal on my Mazdaspeed3 because at the time there was fuckall for documentation on how to do it, and it was cheap to do. When we picked it up the shifter felt like you had to force it through every gate, because the cables had frayed during the repair - but they didn't feel like mentioning it. I didn't even blame them because the cables had clearly been fraying for a while, but it still would've been nice to loving know. I had an alignment shop try to remove one of my trailing arm bolts and snapped it off (a known problem with old rustier e36s) and didn't tell me. I could never pinpoint the shop because I had 2 alignments done close together. I don't go back to either shop now.
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Mar 18, 2014 22:16
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Logically, wouldn't it be the second one? If it were the first one, wouldn't the second flag finding the broken bolt, so they can't be blamed for it?
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Mar 19, 2014 00:05
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Probably, yes, but I wasn't 100% because they're both lovely shops who can't even get a steering wheel centered. I go back to neither and get a fellow autoXer who works at a VW dealer to do my alignments now.
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Mar 19, 2014 00:07
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kastein posted:Like DrPain said... Fired from my regular mechanic, the competent one. I felt like the kid being sent to the principal's office when I called in. I was willing to give this guy a shot because I'm fairly friendly with him and his wife, and he has a shop with a lift at his house. And I'm kinda cheap and if it had worked out I probably would have paid half what I'd pay at my regular mechanic (timing belt/water pump, valve cover/intake manifold gaskets, PS pump). But I got what I paid for ($450 labor ~$250 parts - I'm guessing my regular shop would have been $1200+ since they don't accept customer parts) I'll see what the damage is tomorrow, hopefully it's something not too crazy, I've dumped enough money into this drat car but my tail is between my legs at this point.
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Mar 19, 2014 00:16
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dreesemonkey posted:Fired from my regular mechanic, the competent one. I felt like the kid being sent to the principal's office when I called in. I was willing to give this guy a shot because I'm fairly friendly with him and his wife, and he has a shop with a lift at his house. And I'm kinda cheap and if it had worked out I probably would have paid half what I'd pay at my regular mechanic (timing belt/water pump, valve cover/intake manifold gaskets, PS pump). But I got what I paid for ($450 labor ~$250 parts - I'm guessing my regular shop would have been $1200+ since they don't accept customer parts) Standard procedure for un-loving a shadetree hackjob and then fixing THE PROBLEM is book time plus a little extra. Just don't give them any grief, they haven't done anything wrong and are bailing you out of a situation you got yourself into. Be a good customer and don't get angry at them for your mistake. Take your lumps and chalk it up to an expensive lesson learned. The cheapest job is not the cheapest job, and hopefully you know what that means now.
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Mar 19, 2014 00:31
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Scrubed posted:It amuses me that people still write hot checks. I guess no one realizes they are legally binding contracts, your signature makes it a direct act of fraud, and its really the only type of financial fuckery that can instantly get you thrown in the slammer. Not to mention hot checks are credit rating and loan DEATH. Really depends on the state, in regards to CC debt anyway. If it's 50k on a single CC, you will absolutely get sued and slapped with a hell of a judgement, but I've walked away from several CCs (adding up to a total of about $10k) and nothing happened, aside from my phone blowing up for a few years. I've heard of Capital One suing over as little as $500. That said, hot checks are easy to send to the local police or sheriff. Costs you next to nothing to do so in many cases. But I wouldn't call them credit or loan death - they normally get reported to TeleCheck and the like (and ChexSystems if you walk away from a bank account, which makes it a PITA to open another bank account for a few years), but not the big 3 credit bureaus unless you've been dodging repaying for awhile, and if it gets sent to collections instead of Johnny Law. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 04:49
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