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kastein posted:You forgot the grey lizard men. They're too busy hooning around in their new 777.
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Mar 19, 2014 16:45
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Terrible Robot posted:They're too busy hooning around in their new 777. Has anyone checked Mount Shasta?!?! You can't trust the
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Mar 19, 2014 17:22
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I dont get these jokes.
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Mar 19, 2014 18:20
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Cleaned up the surfaces on the tranny cover and just RTVed it instead of trying to find a gasket since its so non-critical.  Put the floor back in and the parking brake and PTO levers back on.  Then I started prepping the intake and exhaust manifolds. I broke 2 studs off in the exhaust so that went to the machine shop to get them out cause gently caress loving with those on my own time. Got the intake off though and started on it in the sand blaster which was being a giant bitch so I gave up and used my wire wheel.  Cleaned and wire-wheeled  Painted  The hose for the gun in the sand blaster came off last night while my compressor was still hooked up and it ran all night. I'm usually good about not keeping anything hooked up to it for that reason. It was about 1000 degrees this morning  I hope I didnt kill it too much and the power bill is going to suck next month with that 5hp motor running all night I also got some better pictures of the engine since the auto focus is failing on my point and shoot. Guess it had too many rallycross trips bolted to the front of the Forester.   
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Mar 20, 2014 18:23
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I lost the thermostat at some point so I brought the housing to the parts store and had them find one that fit in the hole and turns out a Honda one fits. I also had to make my own gasket since the kit didn't come with one for some reason. I also got the tap for the vacuum wiper all cleaned up and put back into the intake.  I took the voltage regulator apart to see what kind of condition it was in and it looks like it did in 1956  The outside, not so much  I didnt go crazy on it because this truck is going to need to be rewired soon anyway and I'll deal with the electrical stuff at that time. For now I'm going to keep 3 extinguishers in the truck and unhook the battery whenever Im not using it.  Back on the firewall with new grommets to protect the scary old wiring  Got the shifter and the rest of the floor back in and I did sit on the floor and play with the shifter making engine sounds  Currently I'm trying to figure out the radiator fitment. Seems like its right but the bottom outlet is hitting the steering box 
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Mar 22, 2014 15:00
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Looks great! Will you be doing any modernizing of it?
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Mar 22, 2014 17:41
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Thanks! Not yet, everything is still original right now. When I rewire it I'll use rubber coated wiring with a cloth case so it looks original and probably change it to 12 volt negative ground but those are the only plans I have for modernizing it so far.
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Mar 22, 2014 19:29
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I'm still waiting on the exhaust manifold so we messed with the flathead a little bit yesterday but first, CORN CHIPS Painted the aluminum 4 barrel intake for the flatty  Bored .125 over  Chased all the threads and put the head studs in  More Corn Chips 
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Mar 24, 2014 17:06
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I got the exhaust manifold back today. They had to helicoil the threads but its ready to go so I painted it Two coats later 
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Mar 25, 2014 01:51
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Got an idea that we are working on for the radiator  Then I got the intake and exhaust manifolds put on today 
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Mar 25, 2014 22:10
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Corn Chips!!! Ive got some pretty bad "while youre in there syndrome" so I painted the exhaust pipe  Got the carburetor installed, plumbed and attached to the go pedal  Points in and adjusted, waiting on the rest of the parts in the mail  The primitive rocker arms. I think they were made on an anvil with a hammer  Battery and cables installed  I started filling it with oil today by pouring it all over the valvetrain and filling the oil filter. Hopefully I'll get some parts in the mail tomorrow and get the old girl running soon.
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Mar 28, 2014 00:59
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Ive got oil pressure all the way to the rockers right now. Just waiting on a package from UPS.
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Mar 28, 2014 21:38
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Getting so close. I got it to fire for about 2 seconds a few times but there is something wrong with the starter. It turns really slow so I took it all apart and cleaned every connection and greased the bearings again. It worked a lot better for a little while today but then something bad happened and it started catching on fire so I gave up. I'm going to bring it to a professional on Monday. 
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Mar 30, 2014 02:16
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I love what you did to the radiator! Is the solenoid relatively new on your starter?
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Mar 30, 2014 05:20
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Thanks! The radiator was my uncles idea and doing, hes been working on the truck with me a lot. Its the original starter. All I did was take it apart and paint it and then this time I took it all apart again and cleaned every surface that electrons would move through, the brushes and commutator and re greased the bushings. Its still drawing too much current though and I think I ruined the solenoid by overheating it. I was doing the 15 seconds/2 minute rest but that probably only works when everything is working top notch.
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Mar 30, 2014 16:40
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Cool radiator! Do you have to use special paint?
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Mar 30, 2014 16:42
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Nah we just used tractor and implement paint that I had lying around I was using for stuff on the truck. Hopefully it sticks to the aluminum and doesn't mind the heat too much. It looks like I can get the solenoid from NAPA but its almost $100 bucks and I would be mad at myself if I ruined it being impatient so the starter goes to an old timer electrical stuff rebuilder on Monday. He did my friends generator changing it to 12 volts for $100, had it ready the next day and even painted it. I just noticed this thread is gold, you guys are the best 
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Mar 30, 2014 16:46
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Awesome truck and cat pics so far.
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Mar 30, 2014 17:36
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Fart Pipe posted:Nah we just used tractor and implement paint that I had lying around I was using for stuff on the truck. Hopefully it sticks to the aluminum and doesn't mind the heat too much. Does this older timer electrical stuff rebuilder have a shop? I'm looking to get the Divco's generator rebuild & converted to 12v so that guy seems like exactly who I'm looking for.
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Mar 30, 2014 23:12
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Mooecow posted:Does this older timer electrical stuff rebuilder have a shop? I'm looking to get the Divco's generator rebuild & converted to 12v so that guy seems like exactly who I'm looking for. Its Bernies Electrical on main street in East Hartford. I guess hes highly recommend on the hamb also.
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Mar 31, 2014 00:05
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I've been sending the cat pictures to a mildly cat obsessed friend whilst enjoying the truck pictures myself.quote:Aaaaaaaaaah I love Corn Chips so much!
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Mar 31, 2014 20:53
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Corn Chips is an awesome lap cat. She loves affection probably because she was a stray for so long. My girlfriend hates nascar so I go out to the shop on Sundays to watch it but its really an excuse to go out there and pet Corn Chips for 3 hours. I'm still having cranking problems with the truck after getting the starter rebuilt. The only other 6 volt thing I'm familiar with is my buddys 48 Ford but it always cranked just fine. After reading some IH forums and conferring with two smart electrical engineers, shout out to kastein for one, it seems that my battery cables are too small. I just got regular 4 gauge ones from the parts store and the longer one that goes to the starter definitely gets hot. My guess is that this starter may draw as much as 300amps and with some rough calculations in his head my great uncle figured that the voltage may be dropping to almost 3 volts with those cables and that current. Not only that but the current draw goes through the roof as the starter motor goes slower and slower. People on the oldihc forum were recommending 1/0 or 2/00 gauge. I couldn't find that size yet but I was able to get some 1 gauge ones at tractor supply today. Gonna put the battery back on the charger and give them a shot later today.
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Apr 2, 2014 17:03
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Yeah, even assuming perfect zero-ohm bolted and crimped connections my numbers were coming up with around 100 watts dissipated in the positive feed cable alone. Just plain too much for 4ga.
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Apr 2, 2014 17:29
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Negative feed cable  but yea the positive is half as long so is it linear and that one would be 50?
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Apr 2, 2014 17:38
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Should be. Either way, that's wayyyy too much! I'd stick with 0 gauge or better personally, and make absolutely sure the connections are clean and tight. One crummy bolted connection or battery lug can have more resistance in it than in the cables combined... oh, and hot wires and connections don't conduct as well as cold ones, so when the wires start heating up and the motor starts slowing down (and drawing, or trying to draw, even more current) things snowball pretty quickly.
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Apr 2, 2014 17:45
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Yea Ill go with 0 eventually since these cables are both black anyway. One thing is for sure that the connections are clean, oh man are they clean after all this trouble.
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Apr 2, 2014 18:03
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Yeah, that's a big downside to 6V - you've got to do twice the current to do the same amount of work versus 12V, which means you need much larger cables.
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Apr 2, 2014 18:09
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Yea, Im just smart enough to know how electricity works when it comes to the basics and I knew it was double the current but I wasnt smart enough to know the math for the physical parts of it (or to ask my great uncle and kastein first).
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Apr 2, 2014 18:29
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For cable sizing I honestly usually go with gut instinct and experience first, then run the numbers if cost/importance/weight dictate it. That usually means I spec a size or two over what's required, my whole house is done with 12ga even though some circuits are 15 amp and I typically use 12ga and 10ga for automotive lighting. Chrysler headlight wiring harnesses scarred me. I've seen some poo poo, man.  (or haven't seen a goddamn thing, at least while driving them at night.)
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Apr 2, 2014 19:28
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Ive got great cranking speed with the 1g cables. It also ran shittily for about 10-15 seconds. The old girl might live again pretty soon but it takes so long for the battery to recover. The carb flooded when it ran for that long so I lowered the float level and fixed that problem. Its getting close though, so close.
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Apr 2, 2014 22:12
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This is my pain, this is the longest it has run so far https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NSza36q-JY
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Apr 3, 2014 01:34
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Fart Pipe posted:This is my pain, this is the longest it has run so far It's so frustrating to watch! It's just not pushing enough power to keep running? Late spark? No fuel? Air leak?
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Apr 3, 2014 04:13
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StormDrain posted:It's so frustrating to watch! It's just not pushing enough power to keep running? Late spark? No fuel? Air leak? I'd try retarding the timing first. An engine will run at idle with massively retarded timing, too far advanced though and it'll wanna backfire and spin the engine backwards. The puff out the carb made me think it was too advanced. Good news is it looked loaded with fuel. So you've got that going for ya
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Apr 3, 2014 05:31
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trouser chili posted:I'd try retarding the timing first. An engine will run at idle with massively retarded timing, too far advanced though and it'll wanna backfire and spin the engine backwards. The puff out the carb made me think it was too advanced. This. It may even crank a little easier if you retard it a bit. It wants to live. It wants to liiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive. 
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Apr 3, 2014 06:36
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Does the carb have an accel pump? Seems to run when you keep messing with the throttle. Seems like the idle circuit is not working or the screw misadjusted if that's the case. Could be the float level being too low now.
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Apr 3, 2014 07:49
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trouser chili posted:I'd try retarding the timing first. An engine will run at idle with massively retarded timing, too far advanced though and it'll wanna backfire and spin the engine backwards. The puff out the carb made me think it was too advanced. Good news is it looked loaded with fuel. So you've got that going for ya Yeah, I was thinking timing as well. Also check firing order as well.
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Apr 3, 2014 07:58
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I was thinking last night that maybe I have the firing order 180 degrees out. I changed the timing a bunch of times and thats the only place it would run at all like it did in the video. It has fuel for sure and it seemed like it was running like the main jet was clogged so I blew threw it with carb cleaner and it was fine. Another possibility is its the condenser. I got an empty box on Friday so I put the old one back in. I'm going to get another one today and try that too. If none of those work I'll take the carb off and check everything again but I know I was careful when I rebuilt it to try to eliminate as many problems as I could when I got to this point. Not ruling it out though. It has to be something stupid, I always overlook something stupid.
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Apr 3, 2014 13:29
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I really don't think it's a fuel issue. The mixture that poofed out the carb looked too fat to have a fuel issue, unless somehow you've got things too rich. Next time you try cranking, pull a plug after and see if it's wet. Wet plugs would indicate flooding, too much fuel. Typically though you don't get sporadic fits of running in that situation. You just get nothing same as a no-spark condition.
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Apr 3, 2014 14:01
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Since you suspect it is the condensor, what capacitance is it? It is just a capacitor with a fairly high temp rating and medium voltage rating, if you don't have one on hand in your parts pile I will bring one down tomorrow night probably. I would SWAG that it is a 0.47uF or so, most condensers I have seen are around that.
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Apr 3, 2014 14:40
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Yea I think its just a capacitor but I have no idea what size. The physical size is important though because its under the distributor cap. NAPA should be able to get me one by this afternoon but I'll let you know.
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Apr 3, 2014 14:42
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