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For anybody who hates rust and has money laying around, the ritchie bro's auction in houston texas tomorrow has a metric fuckton of 1996-1997 cherokees with anywhere between 40k and 240k miles. They're all white and have wicked stickers, some even have light bars. https://www.rbauction.com/1996-jeep-cherokee?invId=4044938&id=ci They look like they're all automatic 2 wheel drives, but for shells, body parts and engines, it seems like a wonderland. There is seriously like 20some.
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Apr 16, 2014 08:23
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Replaced the transmission and clutch. Got the Jeep back on Monday after 3 weeks of it being repaired. Now the check engine light is on. Just loving kill me, or it, or both.
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Apr 16, 2014 11:43
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Anyone else going to Jeep Beach next weekend?
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Apr 16, 2014 13:12
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piss boner posted:Anyone else going to Jeep Beach next weekend? Yup! I live in DeBary so it's just a short 30 min drive for me. Will probably be with my group of about 6 or 7 guys. Are you local?
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Apr 16, 2014 14:31
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mattfl posted:Are you local? 3+ hour drive. :|
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Apr 16, 2014 15:58
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piss boner posted:3+ hour drive. :| You'll have an awesome time. This is my 3rd year going. What kind of Jeep do you have? edit: I see you have a TJ Rubi. Nice, you should be able to do all of the courses, even the hardest one, extreme or whatever they will call it this year.
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Apr 16, 2014 15:59
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Astonishing Wang posted:Should I be mad when the mechanic breaks the clamps that hold in the catalytic converter and they can't get a replacement until tomorrow? Only a $20 part but I'm about to spend that in train/bus fare getting home tonight and to work tomorrow. I can't believe I posted this  On my current problem: Astonishing Wang posted:A couple of days ago I adjusted the front driveshaft on my tj - Before I fixed it, the pinion was aimed almost horizontal to the ground, and the shaft had a huge angle up to the transfer case. It was vibrating like crazy. I set the pinion to the same angle as the driveshaft and the vibrations are way better. I also greased the ujoints while I was under there. cursedshitbox posted:cassette/unit same thing. Astonishing Wang posted:I have done none of those things. I will wiggle and spin each and every wheel, with the love they deserve. I got the front end jacked up Monday night. There is very little play in the wheels when pushed and pulled, and they spin smoothly with no grinding or resistance. I took off the wheels and looked at everything, and the unit bearings seem fine to my untrained eye. I noticed something on the passenger side axle shaft u-joint - one of the caps had a clean ring around it both on the inside of the yoke and the outside, like it had been moving in and out. The clip was still on it. I replaced that joint and the sound is still there. I think I'll check the rear driveshaft next, then the yokes (since I recently did the SYE) and then the rear wheel bearings. Does that sound like a good strategy? Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Apr 16, 2014 |
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Apr 16, 2014 20:44
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It seems like they should've taken out the cat before ordering the new one, then if they broke a part they could order it at the same time. I hate car problems and I wish I could know 100% that my mechanic wasn't full of poo poo and gouging me.
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goobernoodles posted:What can I do about a driver side door on a 96 XJ with your typical "door is about to fall off" popping noises when opening and closing the door? I tried tightening the bolts because that's about as far as I went in trying to understand how the hinge worked. I did spray some WD40 at it. What Krakkles said, though mine makes a popping sound when the pin on the sill side works it's way partially out. I hammer it back in and everything is peachy-keeno.
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Apr 16, 2014 21:27
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I have a decision to make. My '92 XJ is going to need a full exhaust replacement and all new suspension (it's riding on all original bits right now). It's got very minor rust (a bit on the passenger side door and some on the passenger side floor pan that will need to be repaired in the next year or so), 130k on it, no significant mechanical issues. Here are the choices: 1. I can have the suspension replaced with stock components ($850) and a new exhaust fitted ($170) 2. I can have a 2" Rough Country lift done professionally ($1100) and a stainless exhaust w/ nifty sounding muffler ($270) 3. I can say gently caress it and buy this 1992 Range Rover Classic ($2000) It's like a choose your own adventure! Live vicariously through me!
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Apr 17, 2014 17:11
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FreelanceSocialist posted:I have a decision to make. My '92 XJ is going to need a full exhaust replacement and all new suspension (it's riding on all original bits right now). It's got very minor rust (a bit on the passenger side door and some on the passenger side floor pan that will need to be repaired in the next year or so), 130k on it, no significant mechanical issues. Here are the choices: Are you able to do any of your own work? You can get a lift and new exhaust done for under a grand easy if you put it on yourself.
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Apr 17, 2014 17:41
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Further, if you're not doing your own work, that RR isn't going to be cheap to own.
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Apr 17, 2014 18:38
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Krakkles posted:Further, if you're not doing your own work, that RR isn't going anywhere, ever.
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Apr 17, 2014 19:21
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Fix the Jeep. $1k in work on a car you know is solid and can get parts for easily is vastly better than $2k into a RR you don't know the history of and will have much more trouble sourcing replacements for. Besides, that XJ's engine's barely broken in!
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Apr 17, 2014 19:22
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Yeah keep the XJ. Don't go Benedict Arnold on us and give the Brits anything. 
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Apr 17, 2014 19:25
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All front suspension work on XJs is pretty easy and you can probably do it yourself in your driveway, after buying all the tools, for less than the pros will charge. Rear leafs and shocks can be an absolute bastard job depending on how badly various bolts are seized. Why does it need suspension work? Also, on a 92, you're pretty lucky, there are no welded parts in the exhaust, just a bolt-on downpipe, bolt-on cat, U-bolted on muffler, and U-bolted on tailpipe. You can do all that in your driveway, with all new parts off rockauto, for a pretty reasonable price.
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Apr 17, 2014 19:26
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Alright, no RR. I can do my own work, but not where I live, unfortunately, and I can't afford to not have a vehicle for more than a day or so. Having the suspension (inevitable seized part/rusted bolt nightmares) taken care of at a garage is the best option for me. kastein posted:Why does it need suspension work? Every suspension component is 20+ years old. The front shocks are leaking, the rear leafs are about as supportive as tupperware, and the Jeep loves to pull to the right. So I am just going to throw a grand at it and have it all finished in a day at a Jeep place. I'll probably try the exhaust myself, though.
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Apr 17, 2014 21:58
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Front shocks are $23 each at the parts store, buy new bolts for the lower ends (4 5/16 nuts, 4 5/16 bolts 1.5" long, 8 washers) for like ten bucks, it's a one beer job. All the bolts can be cut and thrown away (worst case if they round or don't come off) since they are all through bolts. The rear leafs can be a bastard, which is why I really wasn't looking forward to doing mine. I can completely understand wanting those done professionally. Rear shocks are easy except for the upper bolts, which almost always break off. The rest on the front suspension is easy. The track bar is literally the only thing on the front that can really bite you, other than that it's all through bolts and other things you can go medieval on with an angle grinder or hacksaw and then bolt new parts on and forget it ever happened. Make sure you choose a reputable shop and check their work, though, because if poo poo goes pear shaped on the rear suspension rebuild it goes from "this is easy" to "gently caress this project slap something together and get it the gently caress out of here as soon as possible" very, very quickly. You run out of good clean options fast if things go wrong on it, and a lazy mechanic or shoddy shop is probably going to butcher things worse than you would have. I've seen all sorts of grievous sins committed trying to put a rear XJ suspension back together.
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Apr 17, 2014 22:11
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Yeah, the shop I contacted has a great rep and will test drive the vehicle on and off road after the suspension is done and make necessary changes if something is off (SYE, trans case drop, etc). Most of their builds are Wranglers, but they've done some nice XJs and a dozen or so Grands in the past year. With the way work is going, I'd rather have it done professionally - the big thing is the time commitment if I were to do it myself (even if nothing went wrong). Plus, a 2" lift means I won't hit my head on the tailgate anymore.
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Apr 17, 2014 22:33
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Two years ago, a good friend (forums poster wamsutta) very generously gave me his old car, a 1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ. It's been through a lot with me, and I even kept the paperwork in the glove compartment to prove that I literally hauled "a ton of metal" with it. Today, on the way home from work, someone cut me off, clipped me, and I went into another car, then into a concrete barrier. Looks like it is totalled, and if it wasn't, the tow truck guy dragging it against the barrier broke the radiator. RIP sweet Jeep. 
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Apr 18, 2014 01:36
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drat, that looks like a well loved XJ. Buy back and turn into a non-roadworthy, no compromise rock crawler. 
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Apr 18, 2014 01:41
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If I had to guess, that's either severe frame rot or the trans crossmember hanging down there... I'm not sure I'd bother. RIP jeep You need to keep the driver rear quarter glass, though. It has all your stickers on it. (I actually kept the hatch glass off my old XJ for exactly that reason, it'll hang on my living room wall after I finish remodeling. The hatch glass on 96- and the quarter panel windows on all years are just held in with the gasket, no bonding, it should come out if you butcher the gasket with a utility knife or remove it properly, which is annoying.)
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Apr 18, 2014 01:45
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kastein posted:If I had to guess, that's either severe frame rot or the trans crossmember hanging down there... I'm not sure I'd bother. RIP jeep The bottom of it was pretty rusty. I don't have collision coverage, so the whole thing should be mine. I could scrap it, or... if the drivetrain is anywhere close to intact, I'll whack off any pieces blocking the wheels with a sledgehammer, drive it home, throw some patio blocks down in my back yard, and park it on them. My biggest regret is that being tired at the end of the work week and slightly dazed from crashing at 60mph, I didn't think that I didn't have collision coverage or where it was being towed. I think the frame is probably bent, I could only force the passenger door open about six inches. The interior is in good shape, though the airbag smoke was thick. Between the two of those, I had to twist my arm to get any papers out of the glovebox, and the first few I managed to get had the insurance card from last year tucked into the registration. The responding officer took that and wrote me a ticket for not having a current insurance card, and when I managed to get the current one out, he told me to bring it to court. Ugh. After a brief lapse into thinking "car loan" and "fuel efficient" I'm looking for another XJ. Don't you have like five of these? Could I trade you beer for half of one? 
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Apr 18, 2014 02:16
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Zodijackylite posted:The bottom of it was pretty rusty. I don't have collision coverage, so the whole thing should be mine. I could scrap it, or... if the drivetrain is anywhere close to intact, I'll whack off any pieces blocking the wheels with a sledgehammer, drive it home, throw some patio blocks down in my back yard, and park it on them. My biggest regret is that being tired at the end of the work week and slightly dazed from crashing at 60mph, I didn't think that I didn't have collision coverage or where it was being towed. I think the frame is probably bent, I could only force the passenger door open about six inches. The interior is in good shape, though the airbag smoke was thick. Between the two of those, I had to twist my arm to get any papers out of the glovebox, and the first few I managed to get had the insurance card from last year tucked into the registration. The responding officer took that and wrote me a ticket for not having a current insurance card, and when I managed to get the current one out, he told me to bring it to court. Ugh. That officer is a loving douchebag. I have one XJ and you really don't want it  I do have 3 MJs, but one is total junk (and probably going to the crusher this summer after being stripped to the bone to build one of the others up) and the other two aren't for sale. However, do you prefer the old body style or new? 4 door or 2 door? Auto or manual? I know of a late model 5 speed 4 door for sale for a whopping $1200. You're in CT, right? It's over in Bridgewater (unsure if MA or CT, guessing MA) and has a 3 inch lift installed already. Needs a driver rocker panel, AKA standard new england rust.
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Apr 18, 2014 05:25
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So after installing a 2" budget boost on my 03 TJ I've realized I need an adjustable track bar to get this thing to stop shaking at 55+. The Superlift track bar on Quadratec looks a lot different from mine, it's more or less straight whereas my stock track bar curves around the differential cover. Does anyone know for sure if this will fit?
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Apr 18, 2014 15:03
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Due to my inability to read 'fuse language' might one of you fine geltlegoons kindly inform me as to the fuse number for the rear window defroster on a 2010 wrangler? For my rear defroster hasn't been working all winter and a week before i swap out my hard top for my soft top seems like the best time to finally look into the problem.
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Apr 18, 2014 16:03
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internet celebrity posted:So after installing a 2" budget boost on my 03 TJ I've realized I need an adjustable track bar to get this thing to stop shaking at 55+. The Superlift track bar on Quadratec looks a lot different from mine, it's more or less straight whereas my stock track bar curves around the differential cover. Does anyone know for sure if this will fit? There have been a lot of issues with track bars hitting the front diff cover on short lifts - if you're planning on going off-road much you may want to choose between the options carefully. Here's a thread with some info: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tj-front-adjustable-track-bars-0-3-5-does-yours-hit-fit-738948/ There are most likely ways to make the factory track bar work, though they may not be ideal. When I got my jeep it had a 4" suspension lift and was still using the factory track bar. It made it work by adding a drop pittman arm and a drop bracket for the axle side of the track bar. A lot of lift kits have you drill a new hole to the right of the factory track bar mounting hole. Then people do it wrong and the new hole wallows out and the bracket is useless. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 18, 2014 16:24
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I may have asked this before, but I don't recall the answer if I did. On the whole suspension thing, I imagine it's time to rebuild the front and rear suspension on my '95 XJ. I'm getting thunks and clunks from the front suspension on larger bumps and dips, and a a little shuddering on occasion. I've found a complete bushing kit (even rear spring eyes!) for $108-$130, but it is polyurethane from Energy Suspension (ooooo, red!). Daystar also has kits with a slightly different assemblage of bushings. My XJ is street driven - will I regret using poly bushings? I don't mind it in my RX-7 and Cutlass, but they're set up to be sporty (heh - 4000 lb GM intermediate - sporty.) I do like the long-wearing features of poly, and the Energy kit is either cheaper than rubber, or about the same, and includes more stuff (tie rod boots, for example.) Also, the Energy kit lists for 4WD, but as far as I know, there's no difference in the suspension between 2WD and 4x4. In the individual part listings, it looks like the difference in the control arm bushings, and given the listing for an upper control arm set, only the lowers. I don't find a spec one way or the other for control arm bushings at, say, Rock Auto, or it's very inconsistent. Rock Auto on the Moog listings says AWD or nothing at all. Nuts.
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Apr 18, 2014 17:25
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Astonishing Wang posted:There have been a lot of issues with track bars hitting the front diff cover on short lifts - if you're planning on going off-road much you may want to choose between the options carefully. Here's a thread with some info: All the brackets I can find are for 3"+ lifts and I don't know how safe I would feel about drilling a new hole, it needs to be pretty close to the old hole. I have a friend who is a welder, would it be better to have him weld a plate over the mounting bracket to drill a new hole or cut the track bar to sleeve and extend it?
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Apr 18, 2014 17:48
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internet celebrity posted:All the brackets I can find are for 3"+ lifts and I don't know how safe I would feel about drilling a new hole, it needs to be pretty close to the old hole. I'd think that reinforcing the mount with something nice and thick and then drilling through that would be pretty good. I haven't ever done it though so I can't speak from experience
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Apr 18, 2014 18:08
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Beep beep bought a jeep. 1990 with the tan interior bits and a 4.2L I6 + automatic. The seats are in rough shape and its slower than hell but I love it. 
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Apr 20, 2014 03:15
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 mmmm winter ale
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Apr 20, 2014 22:14
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Astonishing Wang posted:I got the front end jacked up Monday night. There is very little play in the wheels when pushed and pulled, and they spin smoothly with no grinding or resistance. I took off the wheels and looked at everything, and the unit bearings seem fine to my untrained eye. I noticed something on the passenger side axle shaft u-joint - one of the caps had a clean ring around it both on the inside of the yoke and the outside, like it had been moving in and out. The clip was still on it. I replaced that joint and the sound is still there. The noises got way worse on Friday, so I took it by the mechanic. They drove it around and said it sounds like the throwout and/or pilot bearings. I'm getting a new clutch, bearings, flywheel and rear main seal done today. I'm so bad at diagnostics.
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Apr 21, 2014 16:36
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Astonishing Wang posted:The noises got way worse on Friday, so I took it by the mechanic. They drove it around and said it sounds like the throwout and/or pilot bearings. I'm getting a new clutch, bearings, flywheel and rear main seal done today. So my throwout bearing is going out too! Gonna take it to the dealer on thursday to confirm and see if it's a warranty replaced part.
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Apr 21, 2014 16:42
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  Removed the hockey sticks and repainted the front of the tub/hood/fenders. Great Beer posted:Beep beep bought a jeep. The A999 3 speed auto is pretty awful. Do you have the original carb still? Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Apr 21, 2014 |
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Apr 21, 2014 20:13
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Sandbagger SA posted:The A999 3 speed auto is pretty awful. Do you have the original carb still? Yeah, it's the original. The tranny is pretty bad (reminds me of the th350 my el Camino had, minus the V8 to push it) but it feels more like the cat is clogged up. Were going to pull it off this weekend to see if that's the case
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Apr 21, 2014 20:56
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 I would poo poo my pants so much if I was riding along in one of these.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htzd6XfqWls
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Apr 21, 2014 21:37
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Great Beer posted:Yeah, it's the original. The tranny is pretty bad (reminds me of the th350 my el Camino had, minus the V8 to push it) but it feels more like the cat is clogged up. Were going to pull it off this weekend to see if that's the case Most people just replace the e-carb with a regular carb and call it a day. I ended up enlisting goon help to put a 4.0 in.
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Apr 21, 2014 22:10
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Someone talk me out of this. I just ran across a '93 two-door XJ for under a grand with 180k on it. I really want to pick it up and turn it into something terrible but fun...
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Apr 23, 2014 15:25
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What's wrong with it? I mean, under a grand you can probably part it out and get at least half of your money back either way. Unibody issues are all I would worry about. Everything else is easy to find at the junkyard or cheap aftermarket. For example the leaf springs I bitterly complain about every time someone mentions an XJ cost me $200 to replace with brand new including U-bolts and bushings, it's more the bolts which have to be removed that are my reason for bitching.
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Apr 23, 2014 15:54
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| # ? May 11, 2024 22:13 |
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A dumbass college kid owns it and wants to get rid of it because it's 'old'. I do live in Iowa, though, so rust is a thing that's inevitable, although the body looks pretty good. Paint's hosed up a bit on the roof and hood, but that's pretty much a given in something that old that hasn't been repainted.
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Apr 23, 2014 15:57
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