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Liquid Communism posted:A dumbass college kid owns it and wants to get rid of it because it's 'old'. This is probably the best situation to be buying a car in as long as the "frame" is good and the mechanicals check out. I've gotten some killer deals from dumbass college kids (and given other people similarly good deals when I myself was a dumbass college student.)
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Apr 24, 2014 01:16
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I'm in a bit of a confusing situation that I'm hoping you folks can weigh in on. I've been tracking down a squeaking and grinding noise in my TJ. I thought it was something in the front end, but everything seemed to check out. I looked at unit bearings, replaced an axle u-joint that probably didn't need it, and removed front drive shaft. None of that helped, and the squeaking got amazingly worse pretty quickly. I took the Jeep to a local shop, the mechanic drove it around and said it sounded like the throwout and/or pilot bearings. I had them replace those bearings along with a new clutch and flywheel. They also replaced a pivot arm and return spring, changed the transmission fluid, greased the rear drive shafts, and a couple of other little things. The clutch feels way different - I've never driven a brand new clutch before, there is almost no resistance in the pedal. I think that's how a new clutch is supposed to feel? After doing the work they test drove it 8 miles, and reported no more squeaking. I drove it 15 miles to work today, and it started squeaking a bit just as I was getting to work. There is no more metallic grinding sound, just a low squeaking that is only there when moving. It's there whether I'm on the gas or just coasting. Revving while stopped doesn't do it, so it's gotta be some moving part. Since I've checked over the front already I'm left with either the rear drive shaft or the wheel bearings, right? I probably just need to quit talking about it and put the rear end up in the air. edit: Now with VIDEO!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slWr1VIfgKI Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Apr 24, 2014 |
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Apr 24, 2014 16:12
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I ordered the "Socket Yoke Assembly" and will check out the rear shaft tonight - I'm going to take it off and try driving with just the front shaft in, hopefully the noise goes away so I'll know its the DS. If that clears it up I'll swap out the assembly and it should all be gravy!
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Apr 24, 2014 21:02
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 When I took the rear shaft off last night it was very clear what the problem was. The middle u-joint was seized in place, due to lack of grease or perhaps a faulty installation. The CV joint wouldn't move at all. I didn't get a chance to inspect the caps to know for sure what happened. They didn't come out real pretty, as I use the hammer and socket method of u-joint removal/persuasion. So in the end all it needed was a u-joint. I'm a little bummed to have spent that much money on a clutch replacement when it was perhaps not necessary, but I'll look at it as preventative maintenance and just be glad that its all figured out now. I learned a lesson: Look at all the little poo poo first. After ruling everything out, THEN you can opt for major surgery. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 16:07
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Yep... that's an annoying one, oh well. Did you check and grease the centering ball when you had it apart? They typically make a "birds stuck in my driveline" warbling/chirping noise. Then they seize up and rip your driveshaft/transfer case in half. Hopefully you kept the old clutch parts, it's always nice to have known-good stuff on hand as emergency spares.
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Apr 25, 2014 16:18
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So a shop couldn't tell the difference between a clutch and a u-joint squeal?
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Apr 25, 2014 16:27
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Philip J Fry posted:So a shop couldn't tell the difference between a clutch and a u-joint squeal? Long story short, they thought it sounded like the pilot and/or throwout bearings and that diagnosis sounded good to me. The squealing sound changed slightly when the clutch was pressed. I jumped right on the idea like a tard so that's what they replaced. I blame myself more than I blame them, but they really should've noticed the drive shaft being locked in place and unable to spin freely. Especially since they had to remove it to drop the trans. kastein posted:Yep... that's an annoying one, oh well. I greased the gently caress out of everything while I had it apart. I still have the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, but was planning to make a clock out of them. For what it's worth, the throwout bearing looks pretty beat up.
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Apr 25, 2014 16:34
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a fresh clutch is always money well spent. Esp if you wheel it in the middle of nowhere.  Nothing worse than having a major driveline part fail in the middle of a loving trail. seconding Kastein, good thing you caught the joint now rather than later. Us oil leaker owners don't get a chirp warning. Just a broken shaft and a hole in the trans.
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Apr 25, 2014 18:03
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First causality of Jeep Beach from our little group. Possible twisted rear drive shaft! He was able to drive home just fine, but has a slight shimmy at 65mph from the rear. 
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Apr 25, 2014 19:19
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A guy from our local group had an engine fire driving down to Easter Jeep Safari in Moab. I think it's an 83 CJ. Fire was concentrated between the carb and valve cover, so I'm thinking fuel leak from the carb or line in. I'm not sure how extensive the damage is (no wide pictures) but it didn't get out of the engine bay. A melted coolant line and his extinguisher knocked it out.
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Apr 25, 2014 20:05
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So Jeep Beach was pretty awesome this year. Here's a couple videos This is from my Jeep following my buddy around both courses https://vimeo.com/93070004 And from his GoPro looking at me https://vimeo.com/93067856 edit: Also MetalCloak had this cool trailer out there that would basically max out your suspension.     My fronts were basically stuffed as far as they could go into my fenders, I had about 2 inches in the rear till I hit my bumpstops, guy said with different fenders in the front I'd be able to get the back up a little more. And one more edit: Here's a bunch of pics https://www.flickr.com/photos/96792720@N06/sets/72157644315773716/ mattfl fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Apr 27, 2014 |
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Apr 27, 2014 18:32
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In the process of switching my rusted windshield frame out and putting in a new, custom dash in my CJ-7 Here's a few pics:      Next up: heater motor blower upgrade, install cowl seal, starting connecting wires to the dash. Dacheat fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Apr 28, 2014 |
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Apr 28, 2014 16:49
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Labeled switches  Looks good, man. How much did the full ARB setup run?
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Apr 28, 2014 17:30
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Krakkles posted:Labeled switches ARB in the rear (AMC 20) with a 4.56 yukon regear and one piece axle shafts came out like this: Regear & Labor : 800 ARB: 1000 One piece Axle kit: ~$450 Alloy USA diff cover $100 The front came out like this (LP D30): Spicer U joints: $75 Yukon Zip (clone of the ARB) $700 Chromoly shafts $400 Labor and regear: $400 Riddler Diff cover $175 I had the ARB compressor due to trading some liberty parts with a friend, using the CKAS12 So $3700 for the axle job. I also regeared to 4.56 while everything was apart. Dacheat fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Apr 28, 2014 |
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Apr 28, 2014 18:22
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I'm replacing the rear main seal soon on my 2002 4.0 Wrangler. I'm going to replace the dented oil pan while I have it all apart. Is there anything else I should replace and/or clean out while I have the oil pan dropped? My Jeep has 160k on it, but I don't know anything about this used motor aside from the fact that it's out of a 2004. I have good oil pressure.
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Apr 28, 2014 19:13
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Astonishing Wang posted:I'm replacing the rear main seal soon on my 2002 4.0 Wrangler. I'm going to replace the dented oil pan while I have it all apart. Is there anything else I should replace and/or clean out while I have the oil pan dropped? My Jeep has 160k on it, but I don't know anything about this used motor aside from the fact that it's out of a 2004. I have good oil pressure. I'd clean out the oil pickup screen if its nasty. check the bearings for signs of scoring as well.
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Apr 28, 2014 19:21
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Kinda curious. Anyone else ever break an AX15 bellhousing? I've now broken two and I'm kinda wondering if this is just me or if it happens to other people too. Seems this guy had it happen, and a few on NAXJA. http://www.wranglerforum.com/f218/bell-housing-broke-in-half-sorta-261352.html Neither of them have anything in common with me when it comes to install method or treatment in a vehicle though... Krakkles posted:Labeled switches You can get em pretty cheap these days. In fact, $12.50 each from OTRATTW, I thought they were a bit more expensive than that! Good quality switches, too.
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Apr 28, 2014 20:24
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kastein posted:You can get em pretty cheap these days. In fact, $12.50 each from OTRATTW, I thought they were a bit more expensive than that! New question for you guys, especially those that run Ford 8.8 rears: I'm looking for new pads to run with my four wheel discs, and I'm thinking EBC, but I don't know how they do offroad. I'm really happy (well, mostly happy - I bought the wrong weight) with them on my street car, but I don't run that in mud  Are there other brands to consider? Looks like EBC recommends (This is for a '00 XJ with front HP D30 and rear Ford 8.8, street driven but more concerned about performance offroad than noise/whatever comfort issues onroad) Krakkles fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Apr 29, 2014 |
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Apr 29, 2014 07:01
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Wrestled the heater box out of the CJ for the blower upgrade, mangled the heater core line a bit, going to pressure test the whole system after i get it back together.
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Apr 29, 2014 19:00
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mattfl posted:So my throwout bearing is going out too! Gonna take it to the dealer on thursday to confirm and see if it's a warranty replaced part. So, dealer is replacing my throwout bearing under warranty for me today! Also said my clutch is 75% worn(I'm hesitant to believe that, I've got 36k miles on the Jeep and don't abuse it that much) and said he'll do it for $600 since he already has it apart. Said no thanks, found some recommended aftermarket ones for well under $300 and told my friend, hey you always wanted to do a clutch right? So when the time comes we'll be doing that ourselves.
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Apr 30, 2014 18:20
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Doing a clutch sucks rear end under the vehicle IMO. If you do, buy a transmission jack adapter for your floor jack. You'll be much happier. Without one I have to split the tcase from the transmission if I want any hope of getting it stabbed in under half an hour and without wearing myself out. With a floor jack and the two balanced on it, it took me about 15 frustrating minutes... with a floor jack with the transmission jack adapter, it's cake. I haven't used this, but when I build a shop, I'll probably pick one up. http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html Also remember to take the drat shift lever off before trying to drop the transmission. Otherwise the lever gets trapped on the edge of the transmission tunnel opening, won't come off nicely, sometimes tears the floor seal boot, and generally makes a pain in the rear end of itself.
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Apr 30, 2014 19:30
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kastein posted:Doing a clutch sucks rear end under the vehicle IMO. Thanks for the tips! I figure I got another 10-15k on this clutch before I have to worry about it. There's a couple good write ups out there on various Jeep forums and it's a pretty straight forward install. I don't think we'll have much issue with it when the time comes.
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Apr 30, 2014 19:37
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Yeah, it's pretty simple bolt-off-bolt-on OEM bullshit. The only annoying part is getting the transmission pulled off the engine and then getting it lined up again. Did that all last night, it sucked but now the jeep's good to go again.
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Apr 30, 2014 19:46
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My 4.2L YJ is throwing engine oil into the air intake compartment. Seems to do it mostly under load since I couldnt see any flying out while it idled but a few new drops appeared when I checked after giving it some gas. It seems fairly anemic power-wise but it starts up reliably (as well as a 24 year old carbed engine ever will, anyway) and idles smoothly at ~600. What did I break?
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May 2, 2014 00:18
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Great Beer posted:My 4.2L YJ is throwing engine oil into the air intake compartment. Seems to do it mostly under load since I couldnt see any flying out while it idled but a few new drops appeared when I checked after giving it some gas. It seems fairly anemic power-wise but it starts up reliably (as well as a 24 year old carbed engine ever will, anyway) and idles smoothly at ~600. What did I break?
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May 2, 2014 00:40
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Krakkles posted:Sounds like PCV valve, but I don't know if that has one. You are correct, it does. I'd been assuming it was coming out of the carb due to the location of the splatter. So I tried searching for PCV valve issues and sure enough, my exact issue and a probable solution: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f218/pcv-valve-122291.html#post1738599 Thanks! 
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May 2, 2014 03:19
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kastein posted:I haven't used this, but when I build a shop, I'll probably pick one up. http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html I had one of those. It was usable. Not enough tilt, but them my driveway is inclined, exacerbating everything. It wandered off with a bunch of my other tools, thanks to a less-than-honest housemate (probably.) I replaced it with this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-Low-Lift-Transmission-Jack-69685.html On sale and with a 20% off coupon, it's not much more than the mechanical one. It worked OK on my Cherokee. Again, the sloped driveway made things more difficult than necessary, and the lack of close tolerancing on the pivot holes in the saddle didn't help, either. It wobbled around a bit much for my taste, and even trapped one of the adjustment knobs when I cranked it all the way back to that side, so I couldn't tilt it back until I took some weight off of it. Next time it comes out, It's getting larger hardware, or bushings of some sort.
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May 2, 2014 05:09
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What's the consensus on the Liberty CRD? A couple CRDs just popped up recently online and while it sounds kinda cool, I've never heard much either way about them. A diesel would be nice for the torque, but I'm somewhat leery of buying a somewhat higher mileage (one is at 88k, the other is over 100k) turbocharged vehicle.
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May 3, 2014 06:27
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I replaced a dead ujoint on my rear CV driveshaft today. I beat the thing up pretty hard getting the joints out, and they went back in nice and easy. The caps all fit in and retaining clips went in perfectly. When I went on my test drive I heard a clinking noise, followed shortly by a bang like you hear when you run over a rock and it slaps up into the tub. I got out and looked at the shaft - no more ujoint cap on one side of the ujoint closest to the transfer case. I thought maybe I forgot the retaining clip, oops, so I took off the shaft, put on another cap and clip, and continued driving. I made sure all of the clips seemed well seated. Another mile, and PING!! I hear the first noise again and I pull over right away. The clip is gone and the ujoint cap is about parallel to the yoke, just about ready to fling off again. It looks like the metal above the retainer groove has been messed up somehow, to the point where there's not enough metal to keep the clip in. I think I need a new h bar / centering yoke. I probably wallowed out the ear with too many angry hammer blows. If that's the case - I think I'll put in a new cap and retaining clip, then tack weld it. I've heard of people welding axle ujoints, so I should be okay with doing these right? The part already needs replacing anyway but this might get me back on the road for now and allow me to replace the yoke at my leisure. I was thinking of putting a washer on top of the retaining clip to bring it level with the top of the yoke, and welding to that. Any ideas or comments on whether this is a terrible idea or not? I don't really want to spend the cash on a new yoke right now, and frankly I'm done messing with ujoints for a while.
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May 6, 2014 13:19
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Regular old 1310 crap, right? Hit up a junkyard, XJ front shafts have the same 1310 H-block. Hell if you were any closer I'd just give you one, I have a stack of seized up driveshafts in the basement for spare parts. It sounds like the groove is worn out, yes. How are you installing and removing ujoints? You should never be striking the H block near the groove. Use a socket and a hammer to drive the clip and cap in slightly to break them free, remove clip, flip over, repeat, drive the caps outward, then reverse the process to reinstall. Always clean the grooves carefully, drive the cap in slightly too far, install clip, then drive the cap back outward until it seats against the clip. Once you've got all the clips in, smack the sides of the yoke or H block inward with a deadblow to seat everything and make sure the ujoint swivels freely. Otherwise you'll either have a binding shaft or clips/caps not fully seated.
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May 6, 2014 15:45
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So this is near me: with this:  and doors.
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May 6, 2014 15:54
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Ooooh, that looks like a bank account homicide waiting to happen. How much? And where? 
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May 6, 2014 16:20
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kastein posted:Regular old 1310 crap, right? Hit up a junkyard, XJ front shafts have the same 1310 H-block. Hell if you were any closer I'd just give you one, I have a stack of seized up driveshafts in the basement for spare parts. I usually use the hammer and socket method. The first time I used the u-joint press from o'reilly I popped like 2 caps. I tried using it last night too, and it worked great for most of the job, but I think there were a couple of times on removal where I went a little hard and probably hosed up the groove.
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May 6, 2014 16:20
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Ooooh, that looks like a bank account homicide waiting to happen. How much? I think she wants 9 for it. Runs great but it has been converted to 12V. If you know people who would be interested I can get them more info and photos.   Austin TX
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May 6, 2014 19:21
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Astonishing Wang posted:I replaced a dead ujoint on my rear CV driveshaft today. I beat the thing up pretty hard getting the joints out, and they went back in nice and easy. The caps all fit in and retaining clips went in perfectly. When I went on my test drive I heard a clinking noise, followed shortly by a bang like you hear when you run over a rock and it slaps up into the tub. I rebuilt the shaft with a new center yoke / h-yoke and it's perfect again. I think I just wailed on the old one too hard. This time I was much more methodical in taking it apart and putting it back together. Zero hammering, I used a vice and a socket to press the caps in and out.  Here's what the old one looked like - doesn't seem hosed up enough to spit out a clip though...  
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May 8, 2014 17:03
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Shifty Pony posted:I think she wants 9 for it. Runs great but it has been converted to 12V. If you know people who would be interested I can get them more info and photos. It's amazing what living in California does to my rust tolerance. When I was living on the east coast, I'd consider that "rust free". Now I wouldn't go near that with a 10 foot wire wheel.
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May 8, 2014 21:00
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Any recommendations on shocks for a stock 2000 XJ? My current shocks are OEM with 226k miles on them and I just need a cheap replacement that doesn't suck total rear end for a year or two before I start lifting the thing. Want to try to keep it under $30 per shock as money is tight right now. My first choice is Bilstein, but I can't really afford them at the moment, and I intend to replace them in a year or two anyways. Thinking about these: https://gabriel.com/product-search/light-vehicle-detailed-specs/?partnum=61536 https://gabriel.com/product-search/light-vehicle-detailed-specs/?partnum=61535 And the steering dampner: https://gabriel.com/product-search/light-vehicle-detailed-specs/?partnum=14040 e: Also, any recommendations on a new radiator? I wouldn't mind throwing a little extra at that. Polish fucked around with this message at 16:22 on May 10, 2014 |
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May 10, 2014 14:56
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Polish posted:Any recommendations on shocks for a stock 2000 XJ? My current shocks are OEM with 226k miles on them and I just need a cheap replacement that doesn't suck total rear end for a year or two before I start lifting the thing. Want to try to keep it under $30 per shock as money is tight right now. My first choice is Bilstein, but I can't really afford them at the moment, and I intend to replace them in a year or two anyways. Doestch Tech DT8000s should do the job.
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May 11, 2014 04:39
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Monroe Sensa-Tracs are also decent and right around the $30 range. They make a matching stabilizer, too. As far as radiators, I only have experience with CSF, but I've heard good things about BTR as well. Avoid any fancy aluminum poo poo as there's usually fitment issues.
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May 11, 2014 06:04
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Philip J Fry posted:Monroe Sensa-Tracs are also decent and right around the $30 range. They make a matching stabilizer, too. And FYI Monroe is doing a mail in rebate for a visa gift card when you buy 4 of them. I forget which ones you have to buy, though I do know there's a 30/60/90/120 dollar levels.
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May 11, 2014 23:51
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