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And here I thought the AX5 was made out of saltine crackers and hope.
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Apr 30, 2014 03:04
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I've never seen an AX5 bellhousing break but I ended up using three seperate roached AX4/5 donors to build a single good unit a while ago. Their weaknesses lie inside, not outside... 
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Apr 30, 2014 03:09
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All that's left is bolting the driveshafts in, tightening a couple unimportant bolts, plugging the rear O2 sensor back in, and screwing the shifter back on. Stabbing a manual transmission goes a hell of a lot easier when you have the transmission balanced on a jack and the engine held up by one... I might need to actually get myself a transmission jack sometime soon. Oh wait, dirt driveway, no goddamn point. Guess I'll donate a transmission adapter to the pile of tools at work. Might even be home by 3AM. Gonna be sore tomorrow, oh well, at least I'll have my feet still when I get to work.
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Apr 30, 2014 06:24
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Well it has been trouble free for a while but I suspect the stupid rear transfer case yoke nut is working its way lose for the fourth time. Kinda losing my patience with this. I don't think loctite will fix it since the splines are probably worn, and loctite won't handle full driveshaft torque. Motronic, the left tail light is there (it's got some very mild weather cracking, you know the type, roughly 1/4-1/2" long cracks that go about 1/2 of the way through the plastic, but don't seem to perforate) but the right one walked off in the last week apparently. Should I pull it tomorrow?
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May 2, 2014 19:59
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kastein posted:Well it has been trouble free for a while but I suspect the stupid rear transfer case yoke nut is working its way lose for the fourth time. Kinda losing my patience with this. I don't think loctite will fix it since the splines are probably worn, and loctite won't handle full driveshaft torque. Stake that fucker.
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May 2, 2014 21:08
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What's your preferred method to replace a rear main seal? Dropped oil pan or transmission? Buddy has a chip off his block from using a screw driver instead of a punch, need to jb weld it back together. Spews oil pretty good right now. Irrelevant is the fact I told him not to screw with it and use some stopleak, now this xj has been sitting for 13 months due to the leak.
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May 3, 2014 04:15
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kastein posted:Motronic, the left tail light is there (it's got some very mild weather cracking, you know the type, roughly 1/4-1/2" long cracks that go about 1/2 of the way through the plastic, but don't seem to perforate) but the right one walked off in the last week apparently. Should I pull it tomorrow? Well, that would make it better than my left tail, so sure. Thanks.
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May 3, 2014 07:16
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Alright, I am probably leaving for the yard in a bit.giundy posted:What's your preferred method to replace a rear main seal? Dropped oil pan or transmission? Buddy has a chip off his block from using a screw driver instead of a punch, need to jb weld it back together. Spews oil pretty good right now. He should have skipped the stopleak too. You are supposed to use a brass punch only on this or you can scratch the crank seal bearing surface. If he did, he needs a new crank or a new motor. No way around it, you can't sleeve this one. You have to drop the pan, the #7 main bearing cap has to come off to get the halves of the seal out. Having the tranny out just makes it a bit easier to get the pan out of the way. I don't bother unless I have the engine on a stand, it is a miserable job under the jeep and I would rather leak than do it.
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May 3, 2014 13:50
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Well it looks like I have a line on a good running 5.9 cummins, complete, with an eaton fuller fs5205a transmission that I probably don't need, for 800 bucks. I guess the 5 ton might get repowered sooner rather than later. Almost doesn't make sense to buy 400 bucks worth of injectors for the stock motor at this point.
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May 3, 2014 15:11
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kastein posted:Well it looks like I have a line on a good running 5.9 cummins, complete, with an eaton fuller fs5205a transmission that I probably don't need, for 800 bucks.  Doooo iiiiiiit.
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May 3, 2014 17:34
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I would already be on my way there but I am being an adult and checking the budget first. Then I am being not an adult and deciding if this is worth risking the power being shut off for a month. I can probably sell the tranny I don't need for at least 300 and the old engine out of my truck for 500 simply because it hasn't tossed a rod yet, so I probably should just man up and go for this. Decisions decisions. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:51 on May 3, 2014 |
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May 3, 2014 17:48
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kastein posted:Then I am being not an adult and deciding if this is worth risking the power being shut off for a month. Your house has no walls, why do you need electricity???
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May 3, 2014 19:16
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Because it's hard to build walls without electricity.
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May 3, 2014 19:43
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kastein posted:Because it's hard to build walls without electricity. You can HAVE my lovely Genny if you want to put a pullcord on and clean the carb.
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May 3, 2014 20:34
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Ozmiander posted:clean the carb. it BURNNNNNNNNNSSSSSSSS  (I'd probably end up trying to EFI swap it) Just ended up half rebuilding an AX15 on the tailgate of the MJ for some dude a friend of mine referred to me. Was puttering around working on random jeep poo poo when I get a call from a number I've never seen before, answer on a whim, and wham, AX15 rebuild job. It only needed a couple bearings and a synchro and a good cleaning fortunately. Hopefully he refers a couple people, could turn this into a side gig if I work it right.
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May 4, 2014 02:18
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kastein posted:could turn this into a side gig if I work it right. That won't work out in your favor. It never does. EVER.
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May 4, 2014 02:22
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West SAAB Story posted:That won't work out in your favor. It never does. EVER. For once, I agree with you. I better call mom. Its gonna be a cold one tonight.
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May 4, 2014 02:30
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brohugz itt
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May 4, 2014 02:47
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rAuSo4-Tjc
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May 5, 2014 21:16
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kastein posted:Also, here is a video. It's 30+ minutes of us driving around on dirt roads like assholes and I don't believe my rear end is visible for even a second. Sorry, guys. I know it's from a page ago, but as someone who kind of regrets selling the old 4wd and going to a lower slung 2wd sedan some days, this is not helping any. I may have to start a 4wd beater fund at some point 
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May 6, 2014 03:01
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The only time I threw it in 4x4 there was to cross that washout and jump the one remaining snowbank in the state. You have a badass crown vic, right? Lift that fucker a couple inches, stick an LSD in the rear if you haven't already, slap a set of baby MTs on it, and have at it  Here is some motivation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHvXi_HejnI This guy is apparently somewhat well known in the area, he takes that beast everywhere and runs stuff that a lot of pretty jeeps chicken out on. ninja edit: I checked the budget and I'm pretty sure I can pick up that engine in the next week or two... hell yes. Might get TWO stupid engine swap projects done (or at least parts bought for them) this summer. I wonder if I can rope my buddy with the XM818 and M123A1C into putting the jeep crane on one of his trucks to pluck the old engine out and stuff the new engine in... or if I'm going to have to figure something else out. These engines weigh upwards of 2000lbs fully dressed so I am pretty sure the comanche crane is past its limit. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:13 on May 6, 2014 |
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May 6, 2014 03:11
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Yeah, mine's the gen after his, the Whale. I've seen that video before and believe me, it's tempting. I need to get new tires this summer anyways, and I do still have the old 16" steelies... Could yank the low-pros and spacers and go with an A/T setup on the steelies. The rear diff is even locked already, so that's a plus. I think I have a summer plan, good job
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May 6, 2014 03:14
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Best part about that dude is (at least what I've read) he doesn't even do it for the challenge, he's literally driving out in the hills, parking, and riding his mountain bike down trails with his dog.
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May 6, 2014 03:19
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Yo kastein, I've been tossing around the idea of getting a beater offroad vehicle for camping and exploration. I also have had a bad project bug humming around my head of late, and thanks to your thread I've been looking at Jeeps. I grew up with my dad hauling me out into the desert in his 1969 Bronco and, later on, piece of poo poo Suburbans. I've got a fancy european motorcycle and a fancy european car that I baby, but I miss dirt roads and getting stuck and not caring if my paint gets scratched. I figure I6 4.0 era Jeeps are what I want, but I wanted to see what you recommended. A couple things on CL near me that caught my eye: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/4454788736.html - I always had a thing for Saharas. Is replacing the rear diff a huge pain? I've got plenty of room and tools to learn, plus a good friend who does that sort of thing for fun. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/4455901709.html - this is more along the lines of what I've been looking for, albiet automatic and may have some back fees due on registration (can't really tell from the listing). I figure this specific one could depend on rust from Illinois. I'm kind of shotgunning CL, so if you have any tips for narrowing my search that would rule!
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May 6, 2014 03:29
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That is probably a d35 rear, they're known for being poo poo. Unless it's a d44 rear, those are good. I don't think I would spend 4k on a 24 year old jeep, but then again, I'm an XJ/MJ nerd, not a Wrangler guy. I'm not used to paying the wrangler tax. You could drop a chrysler 8.25 out of an XJ into the rear of that pretty easily. I did just that a ways back in this thread for Sandbagger's jeep. Here's a parts list, should you wish to do this: 1. 1996.5-2001 Jeep Cherokee 29 spline Chryco 8.25" rearend, with whatever gear ratio the original axle had. With a 4.0/MT, it's probably 3.07s. With those oversize tires, consider getting a 4cyl/MT YJ front axle (will have 4.10 gears) and a Ford 8.8" with 4.10 gears from a 96-01 Explorer instead of the 8.25". All depends on what ratio you go with. 3.07s: get an 8.25, they aren't easy to find in 8.8s. 3.55s, 3.73s, or 4.10s: get a ford 8.8". 2. Ruffstuff SUA leaf spring swap kit. If going with an 8.25, get it for a 3" axle tube; if going with an 8.8, get it for a 3.25" axle tube. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/DEAV-WIYP.html 3. M.O.R.E. shock brackets. http://www.mountainoffroad.com/_e/Shock_Mounts/product/98200/98200_Universal_Shock_Mount.htm 4. custom driveshaft, definitely required for an 8.25 swap, maybe required for an 8.8 swap. I think a d44 YJ rear driveshaft may work for the 8.25 but not sure. I made custom driveshafts for Sandbagger since it got an SYE and front driveshaft double cardan conversion so no idea how the stock ones compared. 5. (if going with a Ford 8.8") a Spicer 2-2-1379 ujoint adapter flange. You'll need this to couple the 1310 size driveshaft ujoint to the Ford pinion flange. 6. (if going with a Chrysler 8.25") a 2-70-18x ujoint strap kit. 7. a new 5-153x Spicer driveshaft ujoint. 8. brake fluid, ebrake cables (stock will work with an 8.25 unless you go disc brake, not sure what will work for an 8.8) welding wire etc etc etc Then you just need a friend with a welder and solid welding skills to make it go in. It was a pretty straightforward swap. If you don't want to go that route, buy a YJ d44 rear (I think they had them on some years/trim packages?) and bolt it in. They command a premium. ... Or stick with the stock d35 rear, but if you romp on it a bit, it will break again, only a matter of time. People say they last on small tires if left open, but I know people who have blown them up without much throttle doing a U-turn on a gravel road with an open diff and 31" tires, and a friend of mine nuked one pulling out of a side street on 235/75R15 tires with a tired 250k+ mile engine. Spit half the cross shaft and some spider gear bits right through the diff cover. This is why I recommend disposing of d35s ASAP. For XJs: 1. the 4.0 is bulletproof, except in 00/01. 2. the AW4 auto is bulletproof. So is the AX15 manual. Either is fine. 3. the np231 transfer case is bulletproof. So is the np242. 4. the 2.8 V6, pugeot BA10/5, and d35 are the lovely things you don't want. 5. stay away from 84-86 and 00-01. I would normally suggest staying away from 96 because the fuel sending unit and other things are unobtainium, but you live in the land of no rust. This is not a concern for you. Make sure the fuel sending unit on that thing isn't rusty and forget the "no 96s" advise. 6. 95 is the best year for old body style (84-96), 99 for new body style (97-01). 84-94 have a GM steering column and some other weird features you may like or dislike, 97-98 are fine for new body style but 99's the best. That is about it. Oh yeah, 2 doors like to crack in a few spots due to the less stiff chassis. T1g4h posted:Yeah, mine's the gen after his, the Whale. I've seen that video before and believe me, it's tempting. I need to get new tires this summer anyways, and I do still have the old 16" steelies... Could yank the low-pros and spacers and go with an A/T setup on the steelies. The rear diff is even locked already, so that's a plus. I think I have a summer plan, good job I bet you could fit these pretty easily. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...RWLV2&tab=Sizes Only like 1.2" larger in radius than stock 225/60R16s. Or... put gravel tires on it 
kastein fucked around with this message at 03:53 on May 6, 2014 |
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May 6, 2014 03:49
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Hahahaha, the end is the best "this probably isnt even visible from the outside of the car".
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May 6, 2014 22:24
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He's right, it probably wasn't They actually did significantly improve the wiring in 91, with another minor improvement in 94/95 or so and a HUGE improvement in 97. By huge I mean most of the connectors actually feature waterproofing seals (  ) positive retention (!!!) and almost all Weatherpak connectors got shown the door, which is roughly the equivalent of the French beheading their King. Fucker had it coming.As an example, I will give a case of beer (or equivalent cash) anyone who finds me (at minimum) the manufacturer name and connector family or part number for the stupid 10 pin connector that hooks the headlight harness to the main chassis harness on an 84-96 XJ. It's pictured in the last post on this page: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/1996-cherokee-headlights-go-off-while-driving-1467314/ They look like this on the inside now: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/headlight-connector-help-166845/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bypass-headlight-wiring-harness-180192/ Because they are loving horrible and universally loathed. No one knows what connector that is because it was probably some custom weirdo housing that AMC bought fifteen million of fresh off the boat from China. The pins rot out, the retention clips are so brittle they snap off if you look at them funny, and they're all anywhere from hosed to intermittent by now. 97 and later XJs use a nice waterproof FCI produced connector in its place which I can buy for like 5 dollars off Mouser/Digikey... if it ever fails. Which they don't. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:16 on May 6, 2014 |
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May 6, 2014 23:14
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kastein posted:Weatherpak Ughh. I've heard that name before and never knew what they were, but after looking it up just now they used a shitload of 'em on the Blazer. I never felt comfortable unplugging anything on that POS; the washer sprayer connectors particularly always felt like they were gonna disintegrate.
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May 6, 2014 23:40
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Weatherpacks/weatherpaks are the worst of the 1980s. I don't know why they are still hanging around. The locking clip likes to break off. The stupid rubber seal gets too crusty to come out, and is too big to stuff back in easily. They're usually the kind of rubber that swells up when exposed to brakleen, too. The pins suck rear end at actually staying in the housings, the backshell tends to break off if opened to repin the connector, the pins are too loose in the housing (by design) to line up with the sockets very nicely, etc. Oh and they're giant bulky crap that is probably twice the size of most other connectors for the same pinout. gently caress em, I much prefer almost any other automotive connector. They must have been really nice in 1975 but they need to go away now.
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May 6, 2014 23:49
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kastein posted:No one knows what connector that is because it was probably some custom weirdo housing that AMC bought fifteen million of fresh off the boat from China. The pins rot out, the retention clips are so brittle they snap off if you look at them funny, and they're all anywhere from hosed to intermittent by now. Is there a reason you need that specific connector? They sound loving terrible. It seems like you could grab any sealed 10-pin like this and splice the wires in.
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May 6, 2014 23:51
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I'd love to make a plug-and-play adapter to sell to people looking to put a 97+ XJ frontend on a 96- XJ or MJ, or just a plug and play front lighting harness that doesn't suck rear end. Everyone wants them, no one makes them, because no one else can find that connector either. All the upgrade harnesses just plug into one of the headlight bases to control the relays, which doesn't really help when that connector is turning into a pile of melted plastic and green copper corrosion.
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May 6, 2014 23:53
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I'm going to need another connector for the wiring harness to fan speed selector for a 2000 TJ, any idea where I could get one, or what it's called?
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May 6, 2014 23:55
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If it's like the XJ one, it looks like it's just 3 0.250" Faston terminals and 4 0.110 Faston terminals in a (probably custom) plastic housing. I unfortunately have no idea who makes that housing or what it's called.
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May 7, 2014 00:02
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Guess I'll just do my best job of matching up the harness to the knob after removing the melted remains of the harness-side housing. I'm considering matching up the ground and randomizing the other pins for grins. After I get a new blower, though. loving full current through the knobs  Chrysler
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May 7, 2014 01:07
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kastein posted:Weatherpacks/weatherpaks are the worst of the 1980s.
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May 7, 2014 02:29
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Thanks for the writeup on what years to look for, I really appreciate it. Should help narrow my search for sure.
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May 7, 2014 22:27
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Ignore the anti-96 comments because you live in the land of no rust like I said. Even if that particular one is rusty, they made more 96s than they made any other year, so you probably can't swing a dead cat in a junkyard without hitting one. A sending unit is like 30-50 dollars for you, I simply couldn't get a 96 unit for any amount of money when I owned one because they were all swiss cheese like mine. Also, try to get one with a chrysler 8.25 rearend not a d35 rearend. Even if you end up with a d35 rear XJ though, XJ owners are lucky, 8.25s are everywhere and bolt right in as long as you swap the driveshaft as well and get new U-bolts, which you should anyways. No other jeep has that kind of luck with lovely rearends, the YJ has the d35 and the d44 but the d44s are pricey because they're fairly rare, the TJ and MJ have the same issue, ZJs and WJs all got 35s and lovely aluminum rear 44s. So the glass rearend issue that plagues d35 equipped vehicles is a "$50-200 and an evening in the garage" problem for XJs.
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May 7, 2014 22:32
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So what's the best way of telling exactly what variant of rear-end an example has? Is it model-year specific/does it vary by factory code or VIN/is it just a number stamped on the metal itself? One of the main issues of living in rust-free LA is the sheer amount of time it takes to drive across town to check out a car, so I'd like to know what I'm looking for
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May 7, 2014 22:59
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What happened to the 4.0's in 00-01?
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May 7, 2014 23:05
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| # ? May 7, 2024 15:38 |
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A few things. All spawned from tightening emissions controls. They changed the bottom end a little. Cranks are still compatible, and in fact almost everything is that I can think of. The only significant difference is that they changed the rear main seal design and the #7 main bearing cap, so a 00-01 block uses a different rear main seal than the 99 and earlier. They changed to DIS (distributorless ignition system.) It's now a waste-spark coil rail a million feet long that bolts directly over the plugs. People hate it because it makes it annoying to diagnose spark issues. You can swap to the 6 post Viper coil pack (the Viper uses a 4 post and a 6 post) or I believe a Magnum V10 or V6 coil pack (same thing) and some universal set of coil wires, though, if you want. They also added pre-cats to the exhaust system to improve startup emissions and reworked the entire head design to improve things a bit. This resulted in the 0331 head casting. It has higher, smaller exhaust ports that actually flow better, and somewhat different intake ports, and the ports are better matched to the gasket and manifolds from the factory. All that is well and good. However, the 0331 head casting had a flaw in either the design or casting process and is infamous for cracking between the water jackets and the top surface (i.e. under the valve cover) between the #3 and #4 valve banks. They crack for a variety of reasons: overheating, excess stress, too much power, age, phase of the moon, day of week, etc. As a result, your coolant and oil become best friends, which is really not nice if you are a fan of long lived bearings. Typical symptoms include rod bearing knock, lovely oil pressure, ventilated blocks, etc. These heads were also used in the TJ and WJ. XJ production ended in 01. The issue was fixed in late 02 or so when they changed to a new producer for the casting, TUPY in Brazil. They never changed the part number for the head however, and many heads which failed under warranty (they are known for cracking as early as 75k miles!) were therefore replaced with remaining stock of old, crack prone heads, and therefore will crack again if they are looked at funny. The fix is to blow $450 with ACH/Odessa/et al for a brand new casting and drop it on (BEFORE it washes out the bearings, of course) or scrounge in the junkyard for a TUPY 0331 casting and stick it on. On 00 federal emissions XJs, you can also rip the manifolds, head, and downpipe off and swap on a 99 head, manifold, and downpipe plus a little custom exhaust welding and you'll be fine, because they don't have precats, just the same head and a custom downpipe to match the newer manifolds. However, on 00 CA emissions and 01 federal/CA emissions XJs, there are two precats and 4 O2 sensors, so unless you play some real funky games, you're stuck with the precats and 0331 head casting. The best way to fix that is just get a TUPY head. So basically there is no problem with the bottom end or block, but the head and exhaust system are a shitshow and depend on each other, and if you aren't lucky, you're going to have to deal with it. This is why I say to avoid 00/01 unless you can't find anything else. I'd still take a 00/01 if it had a clean rust free body, but I'd prefer 99 or earlier, and most people think a newer vehicle is worth more, so I can get a 99 for cheaper than a 00/01 most of the time anyways. Oh yeah. The 00/01 also have a low pinion front axle instead of a high pinion because the exhaust system is bulkier and they needed more clearance. Contrary to popular opinion it was not really for parts compatibility with the TJ and ZJ/WJ, as the WJ uses a 100% different frontend (different length axles, different gearset AFAIK, different housing, different brakes and knuckles, different balljoints, etc) and the TJ uses a different differential housing with different LCA mounts, so they didn't really get much parts compatibility out of the deal. Low pinion front axles are stronger in reverse than a high pinion, but high pinion front axles are stronger in drive than low pinion. So for anything over 32s or so, I would plan on swapping to a high pinion unless you want to spend more money beefing the differential up. The flip side of this is that they used high pinion axles that bolt right in from, oh, 1990 or so through 1999, so they're super easy to find and usually sell for pretty cheap. I usually suggest buying a high pinion, gearing it outside the vehicle, and dropping it in to anyone looking to do an offroad build with a 00/01. Then you sell the original axle on craigslist to someone who just wants a factory replacement for theirs and get your money back. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:48 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 23:42
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