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Wild EEPROM posted:I'm considering a Mamiya RB67. How does this sound? I would try and find a ProSD back for the RB67. The Pro and Pro S backs use foam to trap light, and they need to be replaced every few years which is a pain in the rear end. The ProSD backs use good old fashioned metal to block light and so they're a lot less prone to light leaks. They're also more expensive because of this, so it's up to you if it's worth the premium. The 50 is one of the most expensive "regular" lenses for that system at 250ish usually. You might want a normal focal length as well, since the 50 is an ultrawide on 6x7. The 90K/L and 127K/L are very highly regarded and cheap as chips because they were some of the most popular lenses for that system, along with the 180. I have the 90K/L and it is indeed a very fine lens. If you go with the Pro S instead of the ProSD, you might find that K/L lenses don't fit. If that's the case, there will be a little rubber ring on the lens' mount that you can just pull off and it will fit the Pro and Pro S.
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May 30, 2014 21:53
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deaders posted:Had a go at some multiple exposures on the Bronica today. Any tips on these or is it just a piss and poo poo gimmick? Easiest thing to do is to take a picture of a silhouette and then a picture of some pattern or texture, and the pattern will fill in all the dark spots. Some really good examples here: http://fstoppers.com/using-multiple-exposures-to-create-abstract-photographs
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May 30, 2014 22:02
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8th-snype posted:With a little bit of cardboard and gaffer tape you can find out for yourself. Problem with this solution (while cheap) is that you lose out on the magnifying loupe thingie, which I find pretty helpful sometimes.
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May 30, 2014 22:03
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dog nougat posted:Whelp. This thread has convinced me I need a 67. It'd be nice to get my hands on one before I before I throw my bux down, just to see how They're honestly really kick-rear end. It's the only camera besides my 4x5 that I've shot for years without a tinge of regret.
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May 30, 2014 22:14
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8th-snype posted:With a little bit of cardboard and gaffer tape you can find out for yourself.  Might have to try that, or splurge for waist level finder after my summer vacation. dog nougat posted:Whelp. This thread has convinced me I need a 67. It'd be nice to get my hands on one before I before I throw my bux down, just to see how Near Albany NY?
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May 30, 2014 22:19
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ansel autisms posted:They're honestly really kick-rear end. It's the only camera besides my 4x5 that I've shot for years without a tinge of regret. Yeah, I've shot a lot of cameras over the years and the P67 is my overall favorite system. Some cameras are better for specific things, but the P67 is the jack of all trades that I come back to. The system and I just really "click". I had a split-prism screen installed and now it really does handle just like a big 35mm camera. None of the lenses I've run into are really awful, and there's quite a few true classics in the lineup (P67 55/4, 75/4.5, 105/2.4). Yeah, it can't do fast flash sync, but it's just easier to shoot that stuff on digital anyways. And really it's super cheap too. You can pick up a BGN MLU-less body for $110, plus you can pick up a meter-inop meter prism for around $45. The 105s have been climbing in price a bit lately, but you can stick pick up the 105 or the 75mm for around $150 and be shooting for a bit more than $300. That's a steal for a workable toehold in a high-end system. The only real caveat on the system is the mirror slap and shutter shake, which are actually two separate issues. They're nowhere near as bad as internet commentators make them out to be, if the system wasn't capable of delivering professional results it wouldn't have endured so well. I wouldn't even worry unless you're shooting a >200mm lens at 1/30 or below. If you have MLU and you are on a tripod/can handhold without losing framing, it's a best-practice, but if you don't there's really nothing wrong with just shooting normally. I really think a lot of the issue is poor tripod setups - people have the lenses or bodies cantilevered way out and and it lets the shutter get leverage. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 23:47 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 23:31
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Ezekiel_980 posted:Near Albany NY? Nah, I'm all the way in the other side of the country in San Francisco.
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May 31, 2014 00:13
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I wish I could chime in on all the Pentax 67 loving, but when I wanted to get one, I ended up with a 4x5 instead...
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May 31, 2014 04:04
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alkanphel posted:I wish I could chime in on all the Pentax 67 loving, but when I wanted to get one, I ended up with a 4x5 instead... I probably should have bought a 4x5 instead of a 67ii for the price...maybe someday. I keep making the excuse that I don't have enough space for camera gear at my apartment but I keep buying poo poo anyway... FWIW I freaking love my 67ii. It's like a big dumb version of my ME Super. 
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May 31, 2014 04:27
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6x7 night slide film supremacy!
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May 31, 2014 05:07
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Shellman posted:I probably should have bought a 4x5 instead of a 67ii for the price...maybe someday. I keep making the excuse that I don't have enough space for camera gear at my apartment but I keep buying poo poo anyway... No space is not a good excuse...make space!!
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May 31, 2014 09:32
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Ugh, after looking at all this medium format stuff on the internet, now I'm really not sure what I want to buy. Things I would like: - A wide angle lens. Say, 24mm equivalent. I like wides. - A rangefinder. Mostly because I haven't owned a rangefinder, and it would be neat. - Metering. Mostly because I don't know what the hell I'm doing without it.
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May 31, 2014 16:49
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VomitOnLino posted:6x7 night slide film supremacy! Very nice, the texture on the pavement looks great. How did you figure exposure out for this? Spot metered some specific point?
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May 31, 2014 16:58
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Wild EEPROM posted:Ugh, after looking at all this medium format stuff on the internet, now I'm really not sure what I want to buy.
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May 31, 2014 17:45
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Well, this 6x7 just popped up on craigslist. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pho/4496863031.html it seems like a decent deal. This lens also showed up  http://monterey.craigslist.org/pho/4469290762.html Edit: gonna try to check it out later this weekend. Anything I should look for as far as defects and regular functions go? dog nougat fucked around with this message at 19:27 on May 31, 2014 |
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May 31, 2014 19:06
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Wild EEPROM posted:Ugh, after looking at all this medium format stuff on the internet, now I'm really not sure what I want to buy. As has already been noted, most systems have a wide of some kind in them, so that's not going to be a big deal. The only interchangeable lens rangefinders I know of are the Mamiya 6/7 and some older Fujica 6x7/6x9 cameras. Are you sure you really want one? You have to deal with external finders to use wide-angle lenses well, and the framing can be pretty loose if you're not used to it. Only the Mamiyas have meters, and even then, the 6's is probably the only one I'd want to live with. I used to worry a lot about not having a meter on my RZ67 until I realized that most film doesn't require dead-on perfect exposure to get a good result. If you're trying to apply the Zone System with B&W or hold certain parts of a scene with slide film, then it's handy to have a spot meter, but you can just use a smartphone app or the spot meter on your DSLR if you absolutely need one. Metered finders for medium format are usually huge, heavy, primitive things that aren't worth the trouble.
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May 31, 2014 19:16
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TheJeffers posted:The only interchangeable lens rangefinders I know of are the Mamiya 6/7 and some older Fujica 6x7/6x9 cameras. Are you sure you really want one? You have to deal with external finders to use wide-angle lenses well, and the framing can be pretty loose if you're not used to it. Only the Mamiyas have meters, and even then, the 6's is probably the only one I'd want to live with. There's a few others as well - Koni Omega, Mamiya Universal/Press (and the Polaroid 600 variant), Graflex XL, and maybe a few more. The Fujica 6x7/6x9 cameras you're thinking of are the G690/GL690 series probably. The Fujis have an Aperture-Priority mode lens too, the 100/3.5 AE. You also forgot about the Bronica RF645, which does also have a meter. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 21:01 on May 31, 2014 |
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May 31, 2014 20:34
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Primo Itch posted:Very nice, the texture on the pavement looks great. How did you figure exposure out for this? Spot metered some specific point? Yeah, a (good) spot meter is absolutely vital for (night) slide shots in my opinion. What I do is rather simple. A minimal zone system. I meter the brightest spot in the scene that I still want to have some definition. The corrugated roof, close to the lamp in this image. Depending on the colour or illumination level I add 1/2 to 1 1/3 stop to that measured value. After that I usually measure some of the darker points (the asphalt) and see if it's still within 6-7 stops of the brightest point, which means I will still get definition in it. That's pretty much all there is to it. As slide shadows are (somewhat) recoverable and highlights are not, I prioritise the highlights and usually let the shadows fall where they may.
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Jun 1, 2014 04:34
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 Tap, Lakeside, 2013 by alkanphel, on Flickr
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Jun 1, 2014 09:15
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I have 15+ rolls to scan and no scanner. So, old one:  times square by spikemccue, on Flickr
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Jun 1, 2014 17:37
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Awkward Davies posted:I have 15+ rolls to scan and no scanner. So, old one: What's the checkered pattern on the horse's back for ?
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Jun 2, 2014 08:25
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404notfound posted:Easiest thing to do is to take a picture of a silhouette and then a picture of some pattern or texture, and the pattern will fill in all the dark spots. Some really good examples here: http://fstoppers.com/using-multiple-exposures-to-create-abstract-photographs Yeah good link thanks, will have another go at it.
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Jun 2, 2014 10:33
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unpacked robinhood posted:What's the checkered pattern on the horse's back for ? Probably so it can be easily identified it as a police horse.
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Jun 2, 2014 12:10
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Alright, the Something Awful forums. I got my first roll of 120 back, and...yeah. Help me debug. Light leak? It's not on every photo, only two of them:  A137007_013 by LargeHadron, on Flickr Stuck shutter? Again, not on every photo but it's on about half of them. I think it's only on the ones I shot with a fast shutter, or maybe it's random:  A137007_006 by LargeHadron, on Flickr  A137007_008 by LargeHadron, on Flickr And the focusing issue. The images looked completely in focus through the waist-level finder, but 90% of them are focusing on something behind the subject. At least I did get one good one out of the roll  . It's going in the Landscape thread. A137007_010 by LargeHadron, on Flickr LargeHadron fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 19:50
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LargeHadron posted:Alright, the Something Awful forums. I got my first roll of 120 back, and...yeah. Help me debug. Which two? If it's near the end of the roll, could be the film wasn't rolled tight enough. The ones with the dark sections do look like a slow/stuck shutter.
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Jun 4, 2014 20:20
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MrBlandAverage posted:Which two? If it's near the end of the roll, could be the film wasn't rolled tight enough. It was the first two. So I'll need to twist the little knob more times before attaching the back and winding it? How much should I expect to pay to get a stuck shutter fixed? I might try to return it and buy something on KEH if it costs too much to repair.
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Jun 4, 2014 20:24
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LargeHadron posted:It was the first two. So I'll need to twist the little knob more times before attaching the back and winding it? Looking through your post history, this is a Bronica S2a, right? 6x6 focal-plane shutter in the body? $150-200 is my guess based on a CLA estimate for my P67 a while back. The bigger trick will be finding someone to service it, since the S2a isn't one of the more common makes of camera at this point. Maybe $100 at a local shadetree camera mechanic, low end. KEH also does repairs, they changed to a flat-rate fee system, a MF body is $190 plus shipping, plus major parts if needed. Some types of cameras have one particular go-to guy (Eric Hendrickson for Pentax, Mark Hama for Yashica, etc). I don't know of one for Bronica, and the S2a is not that common in the US, so I'd probably send it to KEH. If you bought the S2a from KEH, they will fix it up under the warranty. If not, you still have a decision to make. Cleaning the camera is a long-term investment. You can get something from KEH, it'll work out of the box and/or they'll stand behind it through the warranty period. But we're still talking about a 30 year old camera, and it may crap out 5 years down the road anyway. If you clean it, you get peace of mind knowing that it won't crap out at a critical moment and cost you some pictures you really care about. And sometimes you catch an issue before it gets bad and breaks a part, which is good since "finding parts" for the S2a should probably be mentally replaced with "buying a donor camera" at this point. The film thing, I'm guessing what's happening is the film isn't sufficiently tight on the take-up spool. What I do, is when I'm threading the leader into the take-up spool and then winding to the arrow, I put a thumb on the feed spool and apply some gentle drag as I wind. That tensions the film as it's wound onto the take-up spool, so it's not getting slack which could let light seep into the edges. And when you're removing the full take-up spool from the camera, be sure not to let it slip and get slack before you tape the paper closed. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 21:12
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LargeHadron posted:It was the first two. So I'll need to twist the little knob more times before attaching the back and winding it? It could be the roll got too loose as you were loading it, or it could be a light leak. Either way, I'd just send it back and buy from KEH.
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Jun 4, 2014 21:16
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I had the same focusing issue with my Bronica SQAi, and it was all due to the focusing screen in the WLF finder sitting a little proud in its little clasp, so double check the WLF.
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Jun 4, 2014 21:26
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The GW690 is seriously awesome, but I'd switch to Fuji's folding 6x7 in a heartbeat if cost weren't an issue. I've been seriously cutting back on the amount of gear I carry with me and portability is an excellent feature, especially when it comes to MF gear.
burzum karaoke fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 05:03
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Those GF670's sure look nice, but I couldn't justify the price either. Also, how could I give up the double stroke film advance for a lovely knob I have to twist?
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Jun 5, 2014 06:52
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Spedman posted:Those GF670's sure look nice, but I couldn't justify the price either. Also, how could I give up the double stroke film advance for a lovely knob I have to twist? I had some issues with my first body, but now that I have one that works my GS645 owns pretty hard. There aren't too many folders with multicoated Planars out there.
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Jun 5, 2014 09:27
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Now they look really tempting, and I do have a Bessa-R that's been burning a hole on my shelf...
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Jun 5, 2014 09:35
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Finally got a WLF for my Mammy 645 pro. Was wondering, with the sports finder, I pull the little back panel out, flip out the smaller reflex/parralax sight, flip up the wire frame (for 80mm) and then? Smoosh my face up until the edge of the smaller frame lines up with the metal frame?
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Jun 5, 2014 14:47
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MrBlandAverage posted:Either way, I'd just send it back and buy from KEH. And that is exactly what I'm getting ready to do. I am putting together an SQ system on KEH, and I'd like some input. The following bodies are available for about the same price (~$80): SQ-A, EX (but missing film advance crank; something I read made me believe this isn't critical) SQ-AM, BGN SQ-AI, BGN I read about the differences between these, and feature-wise (for my purposes) they are all pretty equivalent. I'm leaning toward the AI since it's newer, but the EX condition of the A is making me doubt my reasoning. And the AM has a cool grip and is somewhat cheaper than the other two. Decisions, decisions.
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Jun 6, 2014 01:23
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  2 cameras, same motel, 2 years apart
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Jun 6, 2014 02:08
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 Pipe, Lakeside, 2013 by alkanphel, on Flickr
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Jun 6, 2014 02:32
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Spedman posted:Those GF670's sure look nice, but I couldn't justify the price either. Also, how could I give up the double stroke film advance for a lovely knob I have to twist? the knob is really nice, if that helps. speaking of the 670.  Security Camera, Berlin by JaundiceDave, on Flickr
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Jun 7, 2014 17:56
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please change the thread title to Medium & Large Format - Knob Chat
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Jun 8, 2014 02:14
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Genderfluid posted:the knob is really nice, if that helps. speaking of the 670. gently caress, this is great. Now I remember why I shoot (or at least, shot) MF/LF. This has inspired me to start trying to scan some stuff, today. 
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Jun 8, 2014 04:24
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