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Nice "background of photo flying-car job" boast 
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Jun 10, 2014 11:52
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I think the rockauto magnet collection might be more impressive at this point Woke up at 4AM and couldn't get back to sleep. Got up, it was raining so I couldn't work on the house much, so I went to work... guess I'm leaving an hour early instead of an hour late today. This is all relevant, because guess what was waiting for me when I arrived:  Assuming the thunderstorm we're supposed to get holds off, it looks like I'm putting the 5 ton back together tonight 
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Jun 10, 2014 12:44
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kastein posted:I think the rockauto magnet collection might be more impressive at this point In for a 5-ton video 
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Jun 10, 2014 13:24
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I haven't left work yet (again) so nothing yet on the truck  On the other hand. Remember when I got a broken Bridgeport? Well, Disgruntled Bovine just tipped me off to more awesome poo poo in the scrap metal dumpster so now I have a Clausing 2276 drill press. I don't have space at home (it's as tall as I am, weighs 650lbs, and my basement doesn't have a cement floor yet so I'd feel really bad about putting it down there, plus I don't have 3 phase at home) so I offered to put it in the shop at work, since we only had a lovely drill press around. Shop manager said YES! HELL YES! and so it's in the shop now and I can use it anytime I want when working on personal projects after hours. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD1-XEY2xIo This is going to make using hole saws on steel plate a lot more bearable. gently caress ever jamming them into things at 540rpm with my $160 Ryobi benchtop drill press ever again. Our old drill press at work has been banished to the carbon fiber trimming/finishing room, where it will probably go through a set of bearings and a motor every year. Carbon fiber dust is really bad for bearings and commutators. e: the monster 
kastein fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Jun 13, 2014 |
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Jun 13, 2014 01:20
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One of these things is not like the others! New inner valvespring on left, 3/4 of old inner valvespring on right. The ghetto valvespring compressor I hacked together for this.  parts: 1 8" 5/8" hex bolt 3 5/8" hex nuts 1 5/8" flat washer 1 1.25" PVC splice fitting 1 1.25" to 1/2" PVC adapter hub appropriately sized 1 foot pieces of threaded rod to screw into holes in the head that are directly across the valve centerline from each other (NOTE: DO NOT DROP INTO MOTOR AFTER GOING BUTTERFINGERS SUDDENLY. Don't ask. At least I own a magnetic pickup tool now.) A piece of steel stock to make a crossbar out of (as you can see, 2" 1/8 wall c channel is not strong enough) It worked though, so now all it needs is rockers installed, valve lash set, and injectors installed or ordered and installed. Pictures of sandbagger's new front bumper tomorrow when it is done and the sun comes up.
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Jun 15, 2014 05:09
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SandbaggerSA's new front bumper is done. Just needs the primer to dry and a topcoat now. Top winch plate is 6"x3/8" plate, recovery points are 6x4 pieces of 1" plate with the corners lopped off, bumper beam is 2x6 1/4 wall box tube.
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Jun 15, 2014 19:00
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Done. Threw a new starter in the crapcan XJ as well because it hasn't started since Thursday, so I've been bumpstarting it. Pretty sure that is enough chances before calling it dead.
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Jun 15, 2014 20:44
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Just discovered I am halfway through breaking my third AX15 bellhousing today. I don't know what the gently caress. Haven't even left pavement with this one, aside from the smooth dirt road to my house idling in first gear. I swear I could gently caress up a steel ball in a rubber room - by accident. They aren't breaking how I thought they were, either. The crack starts at the web where the bellhousing goes around the lower block bolt hole. Not at the edge by the bottom of the starter opening like I theorized. Then it grows in both directions. Not sure if that invalidates my theory about what the source of stress is or not, or if bracing will fix the problem. Running out of ideas here and kinda pissed off because you can't buy these new. Junkyard only. And I am sick of pulling transmissions to get at them... when I can find them in the junkyard.
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Jun 16, 2014 01:07
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kastein posted:Running out of ideas here and kinda pissed off because you can't buy these new. Junkyard only. And I am sick of pulling transmissions to get at them... when I can find them in the junkyard. Seriously, though, could you put a different manual in? Is there some version of the ax15 that had a better case design?
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Jun 16, 2014 08:34
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Its wierd- Toyota have shoved their version of the AX15- The R151F behind EVERYTHING- 3.0L Turbo diesel 4 pots, 3.0L V6's, 4.2L Diesel 6 pots, 3.0L CRD 4 pots etc etc etc and you never hear of them cracking bell housings!
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Jun 16, 2014 11:09
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 thanks again for the bumper, buddy  I also got to play MOS 91B briefly on his 5 ton acting as "soldier B". Ferremit posted:Its wierd- Toyota have shoved their version of the AX15- The R151F behind EVERYTHING- 3.0L Turbo diesel 4 pots, 3.0L V6's, 4.2L Diesel 6 pots, 3.0L CRD 4 pots etc etc etc and you never hear of them cracking bell housings! That's the thing. Other AX15 bellhousings don't crack. Even the one he put in my jeep is working flawlessly. Just the ones that end up in his jeeps crack.
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Jun 16, 2014 13:53
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Krakkles posted:Put an auto in it I would, but here are my options: internal slave AX15... has the same casting design as this one with only a few minor changes. lovely internal slave and won't fix the problem. NV3550... uses the same bellhousing I have already. Same 300 foot pound input rating as my AX15. NV3500... cast-in bellhousing, internally more similar to a 3550, but externally only fits Mopar smallblock V6 and V8s. Won't work. NV4500... all the bellhousings available to adapt directly to a 4.0 are $texas, all the other ways of adapting use either the internal or external slave AX15 bellhousing I already have or already know sucks. Pugeot BA-10/5... loving sucks. People blow them up driving them gently. I can't think of any other transmissions I could use. And yeah. Here are factors it could be, or have been suggested: Motor mounts. loving not the problem. Every glorified parts hangar I know who thinks they know what they're talking about has insisted it's this. Half think it's that they are too soft, I should get poly mounts. Half think it's that they are too hard, I should get softer mounts! All of them agree that the OEM grade mounts that are in it and are also in hundreds of thousands of other vehicles exactly like this one with no problems are at fault, however.  Bellhousing bolt torque. Half the bells (3 of 5) I've installed, I used a torque wrench. 2 have failed - the latest two. The other half (2 of 5), one of two failed. Driveshaft vibrations. This is an early theory I came up with. This jeep has very mild vibe issues... and has killed two without going 4-wheeling. In 4 months. My MJ has horrible driveshaft vibes and killed one, in 3 years, and hasn't killed the other yet. Tire shake from unbalanced tires. This one has one, it isn't that bad and has killed two bells. The MJ has like, horribly unbalanced tires, that have gotten worse since I put the newest bell in, and it's fine. Clutch usage style. I've been babying this latest one ever since the last one cracked, barely pressing the clutch past the point where it releases instead of stomping it to the floor like I used to. Cracked in two months without leaving pavement. Whether or not I cleaned the bellhousing mounting surfaces. I cleaned approximately none of the ones that went in the MJ. 50% failure rate. Cleaned Sandbagger's... sorta. no failure. Cleaned 100% of the ones in the XJ. 100% failure rate. Everyone says I should clean them. engine/trans centerline misalignment. Everyone blames this right after motor mounts. Thing is, it would cause lovely shifting, getting stuck in gear, binding, etc. None of those are an issue. The loose nut behind the wheel. Doesn't explain it, the XJ has been on pavement since the last one broke and I have whipped the absolute poo poo out of the MJ without breaking the latest bellhousing. Hell, I used the bottom of the transmission as a skidplate at one point! I really wish it was something simple like mounts but it isn't. The only common factor is where it is breaking. It really just comes down to the fact that I can gently caress up a steel ball in a rubber room, by accident, while trying to keep from breaking it. There's a Lakewood SFI rated spun steel bellhousing I can use that goes from an AMC V8 (same pattern as my engine) to a million Muncies and things. Unfortunately, it has no CPS mount opening, may be too big for my trans tunnel, will require custom work to make the clutch slave cyl work, and will require me to make a 1" thick aluminum adapter plate to bolt it to the AX15. Oh, and it costs $610  (I could buy a new cast junkyard bell every 2 months for 3 years before I'd break even on that. But I think it'd be worth it if only another one or two break... because gently caress SWAPPING TRANSMISSIONS I HATE IT.) kastein fucked around with this message at 14:51 on Jun 16, 2014 |
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Jun 16, 2014 14:40
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Comedy option B : Melt the failures and cast your own replacement.
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Jun 16, 2014 15:03
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kastein posted:gently caress SWAPPING TRANSMISSIONS I HATE IT. This is why I haven't bothered to really look for a manual trans for the Volvo. This is also why I haven't bothered to swap the flywheel on the 1980 F250, even though it's on a flat, covered concrete pad ten minutes away and I don't even have to lift the thing to slide under there on the creeper.
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Jun 16, 2014 15:06
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If anyone's workplace has a big old CNC mill, I would expect yours to, kastein. Machining a new bellhousing out of a big block of steel couldn't cost more than, what, three or four junkyard transmissions?
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Jun 16, 2014 15:54
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Already considered it. Discussed it with Disgruntled Bovine on IRC last night, in fact. I would need an 18x18x8 block of steel to start out. That is 737 pounds. I would also need an entire pallet of end mills and a LOT of machine time. e: On the other hand. http://quicktimebellhousings.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/135458/RM-8075 This just needs a CPS mount added, an adapter plate (which could be easily milled from 6061-T6 or any mild steel) 1" thick made to put it on the transmission, and some minor clutch hydraulic mounting work done. It has the starter opening located for a 164 tooth flywheel, which mine has already, I might need a new starter depending on the bolt pattern. I could probably get that all done up for less than the materials and tooling to mill a billet steel bellhousing would cost. kastein fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Jun 16, 2014 |
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Jun 16, 2014 15:55
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A coworker linked this game trailer too me and the first thing i said was "i just want to drive the 5-ton". It looks like someone is making a kastein simulator https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiOt7SuHGPM
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Jun 16, 2014 17:18
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skylineboy08 posted:A coworker linked this game trailer too me and the first thing i said was "i just want to drive the 5-ton". It's actually fairly disappointing. You just hop in a truck, spin all 4/6/8 tires the entire way to a lumber stack, then turn around and spin them all to a dropoff point.
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Jun 16, 2014 18:11
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Ozmiander posted:It's actually fairly disappointing. You just hop in a truck, spin all 4/6/8 tires the entire way to a lumber stack, then turn around and spin them all to a dropoff point. Hah, I've had a ton of fun playing Kastein Simulator: Russian Lumberjack Edition. But I'm really enjoying the "sim" aspect, and I've been really trying not to rescue to garage, etc - aka playing it "realistically" (not hardcore mode though, f-that, fuel consumption is nuts). Getting 4 vehicles stuck in one spot then hoping/praying that your last one can start pulling the gang out is way too enjoyable.
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Jun 16, 2014 18:39
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Ozmiander posted:It's actually fairly disappointing. You just hop in a truck, spin all 4/6/8 tires the entire way to a lumber stack, then turn around and spin them all to a dropoff point.  What other game lets me get stuck just as quickly as I do in real life? Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Jun 17, 2014 |
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Jun 17, 2014 01:33
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kastein posted:I haven't left work yet (again) so nothing yet on the truck I hate you so much right now  . I can't even get a decent 17" for $500 around here. I should have bought the 20" Rockwell with power downfeed Boeing was auctioning off. The local tool resellers are like vultures though .
the spyder fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jun 17, 2014 |
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Jun 17, 2014 01:37
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kastein posted:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_NSG370_transmission Or is that $TEXAS?
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Jun 17, 2014 21:34
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piss boner posted:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_NSG370_transmission $500-750 depending on where you buy and what they know. Believe me, if I could find one with the 4.0 bellhousing pattern (the bell is cast into the housing and is different for the 2.4L DOHC engine) I would already have it in the jeep. Unfortunately the only ones with the 4.0 pattern come out of late-model TJs. All the other models have a different bellhousing pattern, at least the 2.4 and I'm not certain what pattern the other vehicles listed use but it certainly is not the 4.0 one.  e: well that has changed, literally the cheapest one in the united states right now is $850 and I'd have to have it shipped from Pennsylvania. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Jun 17, 2014 |
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Jun 17, 2014 23:10
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Wow I didn't know they ever offered that with the 4.0 but they did apparently for two years. Now I want one. Sounds like maybe it's not as strong as the 3550 though. wilfredmerriweathr fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Jun 18, 2014 |
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Jun 18, 2014 01:24
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Oh? interesting. I have zero problems with the gearbox itself. Stock 4.0 torque output: 235 foot pounds Stock AW4 (automatic XJ trans) torque input spec, from Aisin Warner: 450 foot pounds (this is why they are loving bulletproof in the XJ. Can be upgraded to 600 with a performance clutch frictions rebuild kit) Stock AX15 torque input spec, from Aisin Warner: 300 foot pounds The NV3500 and NV3550 have the same 300 foot pound spec, so they should be fine too. What's the spec on the NSG370? I know they're rarer than the NV4500s I flip (which are rated at 460 foot pounds) so I barely even think about them. e: googling says 272 foot pounds, or 370Nm. Not as much as the AX15/NV3500/NV3550, but still sufficient.
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Jun 18, 2014 02:28
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There were a few posts I found via googling that described people having trouble with blowing the 370s up (offroading), and other folks talking about how the 3550 was more worthwhile. *BUT* This guy http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/auto-manual-6-speed-nsg-370-swap-168961/index2/ says that he gets 23 mpg in the city due to the extra gear allowing him to keep it more in the powerband. He also is running a 4.0l stroker. But drat, 23mpg in the city would be awesome. I've never even seen a single wrangler of any vintage in my local yards, so I'd have to imagine they are rare as hen's teeth. People must just keep repairing them instead of scrapping them or something. wilfredmerriweathr fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Jun 18, 2014 |
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Jun 18, 2014 04:17
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I'm sure that lots of them that aren't too wrecked get purchased to be turned into offroad-only rigs.
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Jun 18, 2014 05:55
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:There were a few posts I found via googling that described people having trouble with blowing the 370s up (offroading), and other folks talking about how the 3550 was more worthwhile. They don't ever make it to a youpull - they get bought by wepull yards at insurance auctions and parted out slowly/inventoried and sold on car-part.com. I thought of another issue on the way home... the CPS mount on an nsg370 is completely different because they went with the newer CANbus jeeps. Unsure if they clocked the flywheel differently to make up for it and I can't find any solid info on whether or not they have the same reluctor pattern. So basically the idea will not work, sadly. My current plan is to get one from a friend Friday, toss it in Saturday or Monday. Repair the one I take out (assuming it is even close to repairable), weld gussets in to strengthen the weak area. Add the braces I yapped about from the bottom BH bolts to the block on the one in the jeep (I never even got a chance to make them - assumed I had longer than a few months, since I didn't even leave pavement this time!) And see how long it lasts. If it fails, toss the gusseted one in with the braces, and start saving for the Lakewood bellhousing while accidentally stresstesting the gusseted one with braces. I called them today and they answered some but not all of my questions, the rest are for me to research I guess.
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Jun 18, 2014 06:39
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A one-piece billet bell housing is out but could you fabricate something from various diameters of thick wall pipe and plate?
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Jun 18, 2014 11:06
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I could but it would interfere with the transmission tunnel in a serious way if I used tubing, and would be really complex to make from plate. And by the time I got done with it I'd probably have 10+ hours of work into it and have a shittier end result than the $610 Lakewood bellhousing - I can make at least $50 an hour doing side work as a mechanic if I feel like it, so I'd rather do that and just buy a premade one that's way more awesome than I can make, then add the minor mods I'd need. kastein fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Jun 18, 2014 |
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Jun 18, 2014 14:58
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Discovered last night on my way home that either the oil control rings or valve seals have packed it in. Let it idle for 10-15 minutes while trying to debug a no-start condition on a 1990 MJ on the side of the mass pike. Couldn't figure it out, left, blew a monster cloud of blue smoke. Motronic says probably valve seals, I agree since the logic is sound. Not sure I give enough of a poo poo to bother replacing them, though, since it won't kill the thing (my cat has already used up about 7 of its 9 lives and spark plugs cost less than the time it takes to install them) and I'm collecting parts for a stroker.
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Jun 26, 2014 03:13
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Every time I've thought something was valve seals, due to logic, I've always been hosed with rings. Probably bad luck
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Jun 26, 2014 05:35
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Geirskogul posted:Every time I've thought something was valve seals, due to logic, I've always been hosed with rings. Probably bad luck Leak down test would confirm......but that sounds like work.
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Jun 26, 2014 15:30
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Yeah, this is a $100 motor with hurt rod bearings and an exhaust stud broken off in the cylinder head. I am incredibly unmotivated to do anything to it beyond what is required to keep it running. In fact if it wasn't annoying to rip out and put a new one in, I would have done so already. Wish I had realized this was happening when I did my big rebuild in march, I would have dumped my spare in instead.
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Jun 26, 2014 16:13
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Interesting bit of news I though I'd share with you, Kastein - the .mil has put the kibosh on selling any more 2.5 and 5 ton trucks, apparently new EPA regs will prevent them from releasing any more to the public, like what happened with the hemmts Not sure if it's true but govliq has suspended all 2.5 and 5 ton sales.
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Jun 26, 2014 21:59
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Well that's some loving bullshit right there.
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Jun 26, 2014 22:44
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Means you have a collectors' item now! Also, extremely cheap parts availability.
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Jun 27, 2014 16:11
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Doccers posted:Interesting bit of news I though I'd share with you, Kastein - the .mil has put the kibosh on selling any more 2.5 and 5 ton trucks, apparently new EPA regs will prevent them from releasing any more to the public, like what happened with the hemmts Does that include newer model 5 tons and other trucks like LMTVs?
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Jun 27, 2014 16:27
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Ozmiander came by for a weekend of junkyarding and jeep repair. We went to the junkyard and for a few short hours, his YJ had 8 cylinders.. then we got back to my house and took 4 of them back out again. 
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Jun 29, 2014 00:51
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Cut out the square double layer (well, zero layer) area on Ozmiander's YJ's trans skidplate where the trans mount bushing bolts through it. It is a crummy design from the factory, 1/8" thick skid with a second 1/8" layer welded on around the mount bolt slots, which is great till water gets between the layers (aka day one) and slowly makes it into a monster rust sandwich. His had completely rusted through and the mount bushing was actually only held in place by gravity and the fact that it had fallen into a mount-shaped rust hole in the skid. So I cut it out and welded a 1/4" plate piece with two holes drilled in it over the hole, then remounted the bushing. Then we threw a new set of engine mounts in as well because he had them with him. HOLY poo poo what a difference. The driver side one was cracked all the way through, passenger side was fine but replaced anyways. (gently caress Jeep for putting that bolt through the stupid way so you have to remove the alternator to get it out.) The thing actually feels like a solid vehicle now, so still totally worth it.
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Jun 29, 2014 23:23
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