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Elliotw2 posted:Everything I've heard is that you should get an SL1 unless you get a really good deal on the EOS-M and the adapter. Totally loved my M as a light cheap travel camera until I bought my wife an SL1 for mother's day. M went on ebay a week later. The only thing I miss is that 22/2 - super tiny, super useful focal length, really great optics.
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Jun 20, 2014 14:46
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psylent posted:Despite all the misgivings in this thread, I think I'll still be grabbing one. I've got a 5D and a 7D along with a bunch of lenses, so if I want get one of the adapters I can. I really just want something light for holiday snaps. I used to run a NEX-5 and an adapter for A-mount lenses and it got tiring to use fast. It wasn't particularly well balanced and rather heavy though it didn't help that I was primarily using the Tampon 17-55mm f/2.8. Though even with prime lenses like the Minolta 24mm and 50mm, it just felt too big and heavy. I feel that adapted lenses are only good if there aren't particular lens available and you don't intend to use it as one of your primary lenses unless you can get around the weight and balance issue. That's why I now run a Fujifilm X-T1 and it's native lenses which were designed for its weight, size, and handling.
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Jun 20, 2014 16:14
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psylent posted:Despite all the misgivings in this thread, I think I'll still be grabbing one. I've got a 5D and a 7D along with a bunch of lenses, so if I want get one of the adapters I can. I really just want something light for holiday snaps. Buy what you want, but slapping full-sized glass with an adapter on a mirrorless body is kind of missing the point of a mirrorless system entirely.
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Jun 20, 2014 17:29
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grack posted:Buy what you want, but slapping full-sized glass with an adapter on a mirrorless body is kind of missing the point of a mirrorless system entirely. Go tell some sony peeps that.
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Jun 20, 2014 18:04
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The EOS M is not worth the trouble in 2014. Unless you are a poor student and can learn on any camera. The body is not up to the task. Sure the 22mm is great and cheap, but that's only thing going for the system. You got nothing after that. If you have a day to spend to take pictures, you are better of spend your time on a more capable body that's more enjoyable to use.
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Jun 20, 2014 18:22
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grack posted:Buy what you want, but slapping full-sized glass with an adapter on a mirrorless body is kind of missing the point of a mirrorless system entirely. Telling someone how they may be using a tool wrong when there is no wrong use, makes you a tool.  Most of the attraction of Mirrorless is to adapt glass. I guess that makes me terrible for using my full frame Leica/Fmount/Konica glass on a mirrorless body. Thanks for clearing this up.
Musket fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Jun 20, 2014 |
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Jun 20, 2014 18:33
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"Full size" glass doesn't really mean much unless you're adapting big telephoto lenses or something. The 50mm MD lens I have adapted is almost exactly the same size as the 50mm E mount lens, and the 35-70 A mount I have isn't exactly large or heavy either.
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Jun 20, 2014 19:00
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Musket posted:Most of the attraction of Mirrorless is to adapt glass. Maybe on the early CDAF bodies, but nowadays PDAF bodies like the A6000 can be somewhat reasonably compared to flagship sports bodies like the Nikon D4s. The best MILCs are still falling somewhat short of flagship DSLRs, but it's no longer a total blowout, the MILCs are in the same league and can handle real-world tasks like shooting motocross very reasonably. And this is comparing a $800 body against a $6500 body, in one specific demanding task, which speaks to just how much you have to reach to find niches where DSLRs exceed MILC performance. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=up8K_xd_iwU At first, yeah, it was about a low-cost body with a great sensor that you could maybe stick cool glass onto. But nowadays the lenses are starting to catch up (eg Fuji's lineup, and the M4/3 lineup is comprehensive), and the autofocus is starting to get good. I really think MILC are starting to come of age and they're no longer just about shoehorning old glass onto a sensor. Or f/2 zooms and shooting birds, in the case of M4/3. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Jun 20, 2014 |
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Jun 20, 2014 19:08
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XTimmy posted:The day Metabones cranks out an EF to active MFT lens mount I'll be buying a BMPC, at the moment there isn't a speed-booster from anybody (insofar as I'm aware) that'll let you mount EF to MFT and still retain control over the aperture/AF. RedRock Micro makes one but it's expensive and kludgy. Speed boosters are basically magic.
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Jun 20, 2014 22:36
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Anyone played with any of the inexpensive tilt/shift adapters available for the Fuji X mount? There's a couple of Nikon F->X mount adapters for around $100 that look pretty cool.
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Jun 20, 2014 23:33
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Musket posted:Telling someone how they may be using a tool wrong when there is no wrong use, makes you a tool. I admit I mostly use my GH1 + kit lens as a walk-around point & shoot replacement when I use it, but it also always comes along on real shoots with an adapter, because it's handy to have something small that fills the roles of "takes photographs of some kind", "will mount F-mount lenses", and "has a hotshoe", which is really all I need from it. grack posted:Anyone played with any of the inexpensive tilt/shift adapters available for the Fuji X mount? There's a couple of Nikon F->X mount adapters for around $100 that look pretty cool. While they probably operate on the same general principle as the medium format / APS-C tilt/shift adapters, I'm sorta wondering if the image circle size difference is actually big enough in this case to give you worthwhile amount of tilt or shift. It's certainly not as big a difference as throwing a Pentacon lens on a 1.5x crop. SoundMonkey fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Jun 20, 2014 |
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Jun 20, 2014 23:43
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SoundMonkey posted:While they probably operate on the same general principle as the medium format / APS-C tilt/shift adapters, I'm sorta wondering if the image circle size difference is actually big enough in this case to give you worthwhile amount of tilt or shift. It's certainly not as big a difference as throwing a Pentacon lens on a 1.5x crop. That's true. I was thinking the shorter flange distance (even with the adapter included) might overcome some of that.
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Jun 20, 2014 23:48
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Chitin posted:RedRock Micro makes one but it's expensive and kludgy. Speed boosters are basically magic. They've been used on telescopes for years as focal reducers
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Jun 21, 2014 01:04
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SoundMonkey posted:While they probably operate on the same general principle as the medium format / APS-C tilt/shift adapters, I'm sorta wondering if the image circle size difference is actually big enough in this case to give you worthwhile amount of tilt or shift. It's certainly not as big a difference as throwing a Pentacon lens on a 1.5x crop. You'd be surprised. I've got an old Nikon 20mm f/2.8 that I built my own T/S adapter for*, and I get a fair amount of movement on my NEX-5. *I mean, not a proper one for architecture/landscape type corrections, it's an old macro bellows, a body cap with the centre drilled out, a rear Nikon cap with the same treatment, held together with gaffer's tape, to mess around with the focal plane like a Lensbaby (for cheaper, with non-poo poo optics). So if I get a bit of vignetting it's not the end of the world.
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Jun 21, 2014 03:24
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The amount of misunderstanding around the purpose or niche of the Sony A7S is amazing. It's like someone gave Dana Carvey's "Grumpy Old Man" a computer with an Internet connection and taught him how to post comments.
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Jun 22, 2014 22:52
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I thought this was kind of interesting: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/53807393 Using a Sony Nex-F3 as a "digital back" for a super-old camera.
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Jun 26, 2014 05:29
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I bought some stuff So far I like it a lot.
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Jun 26, 2014 15:21
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Yeah dog
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Jun 26, 2014 15:52
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Had the Oly 12-40mm for a trip to the Smokey Mountains. drat this thing is great. I'll put some examples up soon.
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Jun 26, 2014 16:02
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grack posted:Anyone played with any of the inexpensive tilt/shift adapters available for the Fuji X mount? There's a couple of Nikon F->X mount adapters for around $100 that look pretty cool. Where are you seeing adapters that cheap? The ones I'm finding are ~$300.
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Jun 26, 2014 16:03
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Nondescript Van posted:I bought some stuff Sweet, I was thinking of picking up an A6000 in a few months as an add-on to the A7r for when I want to go shoot fast things.
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Jun 26, 2014 16:09
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thetzar posted:Where are you seeing adapters that cheap? The ones I'm finding are ~$300. eBay
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Jun 26, 2014 18:36
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psylent posted:I'm largely ignorant in this area. What should I be looking at? I don't want to spend much more than US$600-$700 if I can help it. You can get a Fujifilm X-E1 with the kit lens for $700 BNIB. Silver: http://www.adorama.com/IFJXE1SK.html Black: http://www.adorama.com/IFJXE1BK.html I've had a blast with mine.
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Jun 26, 2014 20:17
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I wandered into my local camera shop on my lunch break and was pleasantly surprised to find their Fuji rep was there. He asked a lot of questions about my experience with Fuji gear, both good and bad. He expects the 16-55mm f/2.8 to maintain the relatively compact size of other Fuji lenses, though it will obviously be bigger than the 18-55. He expects the 50-140mm f/2.8 to have its own tripod foot. He's hopeful that a more powerful TTL flash is in the works; I said I didn't mind the power, I'd just like something better built than the EF-42. He acknowledged the need for a longer macro lens, and said he missed having options like the Tamron 180mm f/3.5. He was stumped at what to recommend for a suitable macro lens for bugs, but suggested looking into adapted Nikon lenses (such as the 105mm f/2.8) as they'll have a manual aperture ring.
Bob Socko fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Jun 27, 2014 |
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Jun 27, 2014 08:06
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answered in another thread
Action Andy fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Jun 28, 2014 |
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Jun 27, 2014 21:29
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is there any place that has a really in depth explanation of all of the setting for the a6000? Sony's manual is a loving joke and is basically a list of menu items.
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Jun 28, 2014 18:17
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It's probably not out yet, but Gary Friedman writes really, really good manuals for Sony cameras. If he has one coming out in the near future, I'd wait for that to come out.
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Jun 28, 2014 18:42
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Bob Socko posted:It's probably not out yet, but Gary Friedman writes really, really good manuals for Sony cameras. If he has one coming out in the near future, I'd wait for that to come out. listed as "coming soon" but I'll keep an eye on it, thanks.
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Jun 28, 2014 19:05
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Nondescript Van posted:is there any place that has a really in depth explanation of all of the setting for the a6000? Sony's manual is a loving joke and is basically a list of menu items.
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Jun 28, 2014 20:28
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grack posted:Anyone played with any of the inexpensive tilt/shift adapters available for the Fuji X mount? There's a couple of Nikon F->X mount adapters for around $100 that look pretty cool. Dont bother, just buy a good 35mm PC lens in fmount.
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Jun 28, 2014 23:11
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Musket posted:Dont bother, just buy a good 35mm PC lens in fmount. If you go crazy and get an actual modern Nikon PC lens, bear in mind some have electronic apertures that you're never going to be able to control no matter what kind of fancy adapter you have. (As in actually fully electronic, not just lacking an aperture ring). Some of the old AI-S ones aren't too expensive though.
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Jun 29, 2014 00:07
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SoundMonkey posted:If you go crazy and get an actual modern Nikon PC lens, bear in mind some have electronic apertures that you're never going to be able to control no matter what kind of fancy adapter you have. (As in actually fully electronic, not just lacking an aperture ring). Problem is I'd need to get an Nikon - Fuji X mount adapter, and that would give me the image circle problem again would it not?
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Jun 29, 2014 00:14
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SoundMonkey posted:If you go crazy and get an actual modern Nikon PC lens, bear in mind some have electronic apertures that you're never going to be able to control no matter what kind of fancy adapter you have. (As in actually fully electronic, not just lacking an aperture ring). I should clarify that. Do not buy the modern ones. AIS. You only need the shift honestly. 28mm 3.5 is nice http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-PC-Nikkor-Manual-Digital-Cameras/dp/B00009XV91
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Jun 29, 2014 00:15
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grack posted:Problem is I'd need to get an Nikon - Fuji X mount adapter, and that would give me the image circle problem again would it not? Uh I don't think so? Bear in mind using an actual PC lens means that it was designed to do its thing while still covering a full frame image circle, so it'll have no problems with m4/3. You should get a Nikon-Fuji X adapter anyways though because holy poo poo is there a lot of nice old glass.
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Jun 29, 2014 00:29
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SoundMonkey posted:Uh I don't think so? Bear in mind using an actual PC lens means that it was designed to do its thing while still covering a full frame image circle, so it'll have no problems with m4/3. You should get a Nikon-Fuji X adapter anyways though because holy poo poo is there a lot of nice old glass. There is no image circle issues with the 28mm 3.5 and 35mm 2.8 PC AIS lens using a F to X adapter. Make sure your checking level/horizons.
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Jun 29, 2014 00:36
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SoundMonkey posted:You should get a Nikon-Fuji X adapter anyways though because holy poo poo is there a lot of nice old glass. Any suggestions for something on the long end? Until just recently I've been a Canon shooter and know next to nothing about Nikon and their system of letters and acronyms. The current plan is to get an FD->X adapter and a 300mm f/4L. Know of anything in that focal range that would be better? I'm pretty brand agnostic at this point, so if there's some amazing Nikon manual tele prime out there I'm all ears. A month or two ago I traded in all my Canon stuff for an X-T1, the 23mm, the 14mm, and had a bit left over to start saving for the 56mm. And I'm loving it. Half the weight of my 7D and a quarter of the weight of my 1D means I can take this new camera to more places with less effort. It also gave me a reason to sell off my heavy tripod, monopod, and gigantic backpack and go lighter there as well. Christ I wish I had this camera system when I was in Peru. While the autofocus isn't quite up to 1/7D standards, it's been handling mountain bike season pretty well and I'm looking forward to packing it around this coming ski season. Travelling is a breeze. It's also simply fun to use. I always sort of regretted selling my 1D because while the 7D may have been superior (only in a few categories, to be honest), it was just boring to use. Maybe that's a weird way to criticize a camera body but I find that the X-T1 encourages me to pick it up, play with it, and I enjoy the experience. I see that firmware 1.10 is out. Some ok improvements but nothing earth shattering. Things I'd like to see in a firmware update: - improved autofocus - better control over auto ISO: able to set the shutter threshold at 1/([mm of current lens] +/- offset) - tune up the wifi connection subsystem (sometimes it's a bit flaky) - customizable Q menu - ability to swap AE-L and AF-L buttons (I use AF waaaay more but find AE is in a better location) - ability to customize the video button
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Jun 29, 2014 01:29
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Rot posted:Any suggestions for something on the long end? Until just recently I've been a Canon shooter and know next to nothing about Nikon and their system of letters and acronyms. One of the flat out best buys in Nikon teles is the 105mm f/2.5 AIS. It's sharp, small, and fast. Nikon also has a 300mm f4.5 if that's a thing you want, it's pretty sharp but I have never used one (except in a camera store).
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Jun 29, 2014 02:41
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Rot posted:- ability to customize the video button I don't even care if its video quality is good, I just want the ability to manually control the video settings. FFS FUji, just do it.
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Jun 29, 2014 17:03
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Fart Car '97 posted:I don't even care if its video quality is good, I just want the ability to manually control the video settings. FFS FUji, just do it. This here. I don't want great video. I don't need to worry about rolling shutter or uncompressed HDMI out or aliasing or any of the talk that goes on in the DSLR video thread. I don't need my X-E2 to do ANYTHING that it doesn't currently do, I just want to turn off the full-automatic. Let me select my settings, lock them, and shoot a little bit.
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Jun 29, 2014 17:43
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thetzar posted:This here. I don't want great video. I don't need to worry about rolling shutter or uncompressed HDMI out or aliasing or any of the talk that goes on in the DSLR video thread. I don't need my X-E2 to do ANYTHING that it doesn't currently do, I just want to turn off the full-automatic. Let me select my settings, lock them, and shoot a little bit. Shows how often I use video (basically never except when I accidentally hit the button)....is it seriously just always on auto?? Ahahaha.
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Jun 29, 2014 18:59
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