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Rexxed posted:Ubiquiti nanostations would work except that due to having to transmit through two houses they might not. It's the kind of situation where you don't know how badly those will obstruct the signal so there's no really solid advice besides trying it and seeing if it works, unfortunately. On the other hand, unlike a typical router the Nanostations are directional, so you've got all of the transmitter power helping you instead of just blanketing the whole area. They're capable of being used for installations in the 1km+ range so they're awesomely overkill for short range. I have two Nanostation Loco M5s roughly aimed at each other, and Google Maps says they're just under 130 feet apart. One is inside my garage shooting through my metal garage door, the other is on the inside of double-pane glass. They've got 100% signal. Unless that's 238 feet of solid concrete, you should be able to get at least some usable internet with a pair of Nanostations.
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Sep 8, 2014 21:03
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When plugged in via ethernet, I get 50mbps down (tested with speedtest.net) on my laptop. When I'm on wireless, I get about 20mbps, even though my phone is still able to pull 50 mbps. At first I thought this might be a router issue, and my old router was 10 years old anyway, so I bought a new TP-LINK wireless N router, and the issue still persists. I've installed the latest drivers. The laptop has an Intel AC 7260. Signal strength is great. Any ideas about why my laptop can't pull down the full bandwidth, even though other devices on the network can?
Imaduck fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Sep 8, 2014 |
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Sep 8, 2014 22:16
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Krailor posted:I'm not sure about default router firmware but this is a standard feature of DD-WRT. You can setup rules based on either IP or MAC address to only allow access during specified times of day. Rukus posted:Pretty sure all of the third-party firmwares (dd-wrt, tomato, etc.) support time of day restrictions, so you'll have a lot of options. Something like this Asus AC router with dd-wrt would be a good option: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320115 http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Asus_RT-AC66U I have Tomato on my RT-N66U and just noticed the access restriction setting. Thanks everyone for the tips, I will be getting them the RT-N66U as well since it has all the features they could possibly want with Tomato installed.
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Sep 9, 2014 22:48
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Anyone here have any links or resources for learning more about basic Active Directory? I just want to have a server storing different computer's private profiles and data. That way, I can buy new machines/reformat computers without much hassle setting everything up
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Sep 10, 2014 11:17
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caberham posted:Anyone here have any links or resources for learning more about basic Active Directory? Eat a gun. No, seriously. Go find your local arms merchant, buy a weapon of death and stick the barrel right in your stupid face and pull the trigger. This will be slightly less painful and a lot less confusing than what you are attempting. There's your usual hyperbolic statement about Windows out of the way. It's really not that bad. Without knowing what version of Windows Server you're running this should get you started: http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/jj649079.aspx My personal experience with them is that for general use they are handy, especially if you have a solid gigabit network in the office. Remember that all the crap data your users stuff into their profile has to get synced back to the server every time they log off. It's slowwwwww sometimes. Setting it up was pretty simple as I recall. You go into their entry on the Active Directory list, right-click for Properties and go under the directory info tab and enter a pathname on the server for where to store their data. That was from a while ago and more recent versions of Server OS have different options. Read the guide up above, it's got a TON of valuable info about how to setup your environment before deploying. Our own forums have loads of helpful info on Group Policies: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2955619 Good luck. This can be a real timesaver because you just have to protect the server with diligent backups rather than the individual machines.
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Sep 10, 2014 19:46
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CuddleChunks posted:My personal experience with them is that for general use they are handy, especially if you have a solid gigabit network in the office. Remember that all the crap data your users stuff into their profile has to get synced back to the server every time they log off. Folder Redirection > Roaming Profiles
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Sep 10, 2014 20:08
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Moey posted:Folder Redirection > Roaming Profiles Yeah, just have all of that poo poo on the server to begin with.
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Sep 10, 2014 20:10
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caberham posted:Anyone here have any links or resources for learning more about basic Active Directory? For home use there are a million better ways of syncing or storing your personal data on a NAS that don't involve Active Directory.
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Sep 10, 2014 23:57
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Moey posted:Folder Redirection > Roaming Profiles This is straight up wisdom. Do that, not roaming profiles if you can help it.
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Sep 11, 2014 00:40
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I will be moving to a new apartment and would love to create : project goon cave in the sky. I plan to set up a whole bunch of techno gadget poo poo all over the house and make a thread in SH/SC. Oh and I appreciate all the help and will probably throw in Amazon gift coupons/charity donations in the name of goons.CuddleChunks posted:Eat a gun. Hey thanks for the heads up, I knew I was stepping into computer hell. Maybe when I commit suicide I will see Steve Job on the other side greeting me with "Bonjour"  But right now, without having a central network, I feel like I'm dying by a thousand paper cuts.I briefly looked into Windows Home Server wikipedia article and the features seems like the perfect fit for me
That's basically what I can think of the top of my head. I do use keypass and dropbox sync with pidgin but I'm just trying to do more things. From what I read in this forum, some goons will tell me to just stick with windows, some say LDAP is ok, and everyone tells me to shoot myself 
caberham fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Sep 11, 2014 |
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Sep 11, 2014 02:41
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Thanks for the suggestions goons. I will check out the airport extreme.
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Sep 11, 2014 16:16
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IOwnCalculus posted:On the other hand, unlike a typical router the Nanostations are directional, so you've got all of the transmitter power helping you instead of just blanketing the whole area. They're capable of being used for installations in the 1km+ range so they're awesomely overkill for short range. So I'm getting my family's new rural property up and running with internet and I could use some advice. There are three buildings we'd like to have wifi in, the house, the shop and an old schoolhouse we converted to an office. Currently we have satellite internet hooked up to the old school house and I'd like to use that as the base of the network. The buildings are laid out in a triangle with about 100-125 yards between each. I was looking at ubiquiti's nanostations and if I understand correctly I'll need four of them? As well, do the stations at the far end act as wireless access points? Would using ubiquiti's Bullet with an omnidirectional antenna allow it to function as both WAP and bridge?
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Sep 11, 2014 21:58
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Imaduck posted:When plugged in via ethernet, I get 50mbps down (tested with speedtest.net) on my laptop. When I'm on wireless, I get about 20mbps, even though my phone is still able to pull 50 mbps. At first I thought this might be a router issue, and my old router was 10 years old anyway, so I bought a new TP-LINK wireless N router, and the issue still persists. I've installed the latest drivers. The laptop has an Intel AC 7260. Signal strength is great. Any ideas about why my laptop can't pull down the full bandwidth, even though other devices on the network can? Just a wild guess, but did you check the energy settings on your wifi card? Sometimes they are set to save power and that messes with performance. You could also check the Access Point as well (Network -> Wireless -> Wireless Advanced -> Transmit Power, although it should be set to "High" by default).
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Sep 12, 2014 00:18
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MrMoo posted:You can push the configuration using a CCD file: Can I set this per user though?
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Sep 12, 2014 04:49
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Gorau posted:So I'm getting my family's new rural property up and running with internet and I could use some advice. There are three buildings we'd like to have wifi in, the house, the shop and an old schoolhouse we converted to an office. Currently we have satellite internet hooked up to the old school house and I'd like to use that as the base of the network. The buildings are laid out in a triangle with about 100-125 yards between each. I was looking at ubiquiti's nanostations and if I understand correctly I'll need four of them? As well, do the stations at the far end act as wireless access points? Would using ubiquiti's Bullet with an omnidirectional antenna allow it to function as both WAP and bridge? Ubiquiti does some crazy poo poo with their Airmax radios that makes them not quite wifi - they use the same unlicensed band, sure, but for the most part they work best when they're only talking to other Ubiquiti devices. Regardless of what Ubiquiti gear you have at each end, you should plan on installing a local AP as well (Ubiquiti or otherwise - they make a tiny little Airgateway that piggybacks on the PoE injector for their radios). If the angle between the two far buildings isn't too wide when you're at the schoolhouse, and you have some time to play with it, I'd just order a pair of Nanostation Locos to start and test with those. 5GHz if your 2.4GHz band looks like poo poo (like mine does) but since you're out in the sticks you might be okay with 2.4. Stick one on the schoolhouse aimed roughly between the other two buildings, and then use the other one to test at the other two locations and see if you can get a good enough signal at both. The radio at the far end can be aimed directy at the schoolhouse, you'd just want the one at the schoolhouse to be aimed as close to the middle as possible. If the speeds you get (the Ubiquiti interface has a built in speed test, it's slick) are good enough, then just order one more Nanostation Loco and whatever mounting gear you need for them and call it good. Add a local AP of your choice at each site. If they aren't fast enough, you could do two things. One would be assuming there's no difference in obstructions from the schoolhouse to either the shop or house, grab a Bullet or Rocket with a matching sector antenna, stick that on the schoolhouse, and point the Nanostations back at it. The other, if one of the end locations is much more obstructed, you could run a pair of nanostations from the schoolhouse to whichever endpoint has better reception, and then a second pair of nanostations from there to the other endpoint. You can swap out anytime I mention a Nanostation for a bullet+dish or pretty much nearly any other directional product Ubiquiti makes, I just think that unless you need >100Mbps speed the Nanostations will probably do you just fine at your distances and save you a decent chunk of change. The only caveat with Ubiquiti's products (I don't work for them or anything, I just think they make really good products at a killer $/performance ratio) is that anytime they quote a bandwidth capacity, that's combined bidirectional. My Nanostation Loco M5s can do nearly 150Mbps of throughput, but only when that's 75Mbps going in each direction. A single-direction stream is never going to see what they quote.
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Sep 12, 2014 05:28
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Can I set this per user though? Each user should have a unique CCD unless you are doing something weird. The CCD is the common name in the certificate.
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Sep 12, 2014 20:06
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mcbexx posted:Just a wild guess, but did you check the energy settings on your wifi card?
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Sep 12, 2014 22:47
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New firmware, haven't loaded it yet. Should I do a settings backup/hard reset/flash/hard reset/restore settings or just update the drat firmware?quote:ASUS RT-N66U Firmware version 3.0.0.4.376.2524 Link
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Sep 12, 2014 23:48
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Has anyone tried the netgear R7000 with Shibby's tomato? I have an old Linksys E2000 (also on Shibby's) I'd like to upgrade from, was thinking I'd go with that.
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Sep 13, 2014 00:42
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gently caress, all right. Comcast sent me one of their stupid goddamned modem-router combo units designed for baby boomers and I want nothing to do with it. Unfortunately, they also dumbed it down so much that I've spent several hours trying to figure out how to bypass the built-in router so I can just use it normally. Right now I'm basically just treating it like a standard CE router, but to do this I have to double-NAT, which I'm not a fan of, because it's going to break the poo poo out of my VPN. Anyone dealt with this before? I want to bypass the combo unit all together and just assign the public IP to the external interface of my own router.
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Sep 13, 2014 04:43
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Total n00b question here, so please forgive my ignorance. I'm in the market for a modem/router setup, but not really sure where to start or what exactly I'll need. I live in a house where my cable for the modem is hooked up in a bedroom about as far from the living room as possible, also through a fair number of walls. I'd say the total distance is no more than 100 feet, if not much less, but the signal has to go through 4-5 walls. Right now I'm running a CM-100 modem and Linksys E1200 router on a Comcast 12 down 2 up, so nothing crazy, though I'm thinking of upgrading to 50 down, 10 up, which I know requires an upgraded modem. I'm noticing that on my laptop in the living room the signal strength isn't super strong and the speeds aren't what I get on the wired connection. Would it be worthwhile to move the router to the living room and run a cable to it from the modem in the bedroom? Or should I just get a stronger router? Also, if I were to upgrade my hardware, what might be an economical way of doing so? I'd love to spend as little as possible on the hardware so I can spend more on the speed. Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to give me!
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Sep 13, 2014 05:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:Ubiquiti does some crazy poo poo with their Airmax radios that makes them not quite wifi - they use the same unlicensed band, sure, but for the most part they work best when they're only talking to other Ubiquiti devices. Regardless of what Ubiquiti gear you have at each end, you should plan on installing a local AP as well (Ubiquiti or otherwise - they make a tiny little Airgateway that piggybacks on the PoE injector for their radios). Thanks for the advice. I think it'll work, but one final question. I looked into the data sheets for the nanostations. It says it has a minimum operating of -30c. That's unfortunately not cold enough. -40 or 45 isn't uncommon for us. Do you think it would be be possible to mount them inside and just point them in the general direction without too much lost signal strength? One of the buildings is aluminum sided and the others are wood.
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Sep 13, 2014 07:42
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psydude posted:gently caress, all right. Comcast sent me one of their stupid goddamned modem-router combo units What model?
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Sep 13, 2014 08:15
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If it is the SMC model you set 10.1.10.10 as your DMZ host and disable everything else. Pretty much all you can do other than asking "Tech_Comcast" on whatever forums to remote in a convert the router to bridge mode. For some inane reason bridging does not work if you have a static IP, how they managed that.
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Sep 13, 2014 11:20
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Gorau posted:Thanks for the advice. I think it'll work, but one final question. I looked into the data sheets for the nanostations. It says it has a minimum operating of -30c. That's unfortunately not cold enough. -40 or 45 isn't uncommon for us. Do you think it would be be possible to mount them inside and just point them in the general direction without too much lost signal strength? One of the buildings is aluminum sided and the others are wood. Maybe. It will likely work fine through the wood buildings, but you'll need to try it and see how the aluminum siding affects it. You might be close enough to get away with it, or you may be able to pick up the signal through a window or the attic if the roof's not also metal. If it won't work through the metal siding, you could mount the nanostation in a plastic enclosure on the side of the building. The electronics produce a small amount of heat on their own, so the extra insulation of the enclosure ought to be enough to keep it going in the extreme cold. Just don't unplug it and allow it to cool down. They do make small low voltage electric heaters for this sort of thing, but I think that's probably overkill.
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Sep 13, 2014 13:28
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r0ck0 posted:New firmware, haven't loaded it yet. Should I do a settings backup/hard reset/flash/hard reset/restore settings or just update the drat firmware? So I updated to the new firmware and I can no longer connect to my other computer using my external DNS name when inside the network (behind the NAT). My public FQDN is ex.ample.com and I can connect to my server from the internet, but when I'm on the same internal network it fails to resolve. I downgraded the firmware and it works again. Is this a bug in the new firmware or expected behavior or misconfiguration in my settings?
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Sep 13, 2014 17:00
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ConspicuousEvil posted:Total n00b question here, so please forgive my ignorance. That being said, I would try to centralize your router as much as possible, either by running cable between the router and the cable or using something like a powerline adapter. In terms of hardware, there are two things you should be looking for. For your router, you should be looking for something that operates on dual-band, which means 2.4GHz and 5GHz. Right now your E1200 just does 2.4GHz, which allows for less bandwidth and is more prone to interference. I know a lot of people in this thread like to recommend Apple routers for something that's no-hassle, so you might be able to find something used or refurbished. The second thing you should look for is DOCSIS 3 for your modem. Surfboard modems are the general recommended model, but I'm not sure what your budget is.
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Sep 13, 2014 17:49
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I just upgraded from an old Sonicwall TZ170 to a Linksys WRT1900AC. It's insane how much faster this thing is so far. I'm geeking out pretty hard right now.
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Sep 13, 2014 19:37
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e: Fixed my own problem.
Diametunim fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Sep 14, 2014 |
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Sep 13, 2014 23:15
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Heelp. My SB6141 modem decided to die (Just reboots when pushed to the limit) and the cable tech laughed at my old WRT54GL. I need a recommendation for a new modem and router. I've got three computers to hook up via wifi, a smart phone, and and one PC that can be hard wired. Budget of around $200. With the surfboard dying almost exactly when it went out of warranty I wouldn't mind trying another brand for the modem. Cox.net, Ultimate Package, I think pushes ~100 and they're experimenting with rolling out higher speeds soon, i think? So a little future proofing wouldn't be a bad idea. I'm skimming over the OP's choices but just noticed it hasn't been updated since 2012 so I'm guessing all of that info is a little out of date? Nookovian-Red fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Sep 13, 2014 |
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Sep 13, 2014 23:31
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Arris surfboard 6183 will let you do 16x4 which is what TWC is using to roll out Maxx. It's about 130 from amazon, shipping in 3-5 weeks.
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Sep 15, 2014 06:06
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CrazyLittle posted:What model? It's a Technicolor TC 8305C.
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Sep 15, 2014 15:00
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beepsandboops posted:There's probably not a lot you can do to improve the signal in your living room while the router is in the bedroom. There was a story going around a few weeks back that illustrates really well that at some point, it's a problem of physics, not your router: http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2014/08/mapping-wi-fi-dead-zones-with-physics-and-gifs/ Thanks a bunch for your help! I wound up picking up an E2500 and SB6120 from someone here for $35. Hopefully I didn't just throw any money away. My budget was essentially as little as I could pay.
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Sep 15, 2014 15:02
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psydude posted:It's a Technicolor TC 8305C. Use the support chat to get them to set it in bridge mode. Otherwise get yourself a surfboard modem and return that one to the local office.
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Sep 16, 2014 08:55
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So I (clearly) don't know poo poo about networking, and I just recently upgraded my internet. Turns out I'd been grandfathered in to a lovely old internet plan and I'd been using a DOCSIS 1.0 modem for the last like 10 years. Today I finally talked with my provider and got a faster, cheaper plan, and they upgraded my modem to this thing: http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-DOCSIS-Cable-Modem-DPC3008-CC/dp/B006IJHK96 The wireless router I'd been using since like 2007 (I know, I know) was this old relic: http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-WGR614NA-WGR614-Wireless-G-Router/dp/B00008SCFL So I got home today, got the new modem up and running (plugged it directly into my desktop via cat5 at first), and my internet is now like 3 times faster than it was before. Hooray. Only problem is, my PC can't access the network at all now when it's plugged into the router. I have to assume this is simply because that router is just too old and lovely, right? Assuming that's the case, should I just upgrade to something simple like this? http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Range...wireless+router For the record, I've got two things in the house I plug directly into the router with cat5 (my ps4 and my PC tower), otherwise I've got 5 or 6 wireless devices that are on the wi-fi network at any given time. Thanks in advance for helping my clueless rear end.
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Sep 16, 2014 23:09
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Your cable modem probably just needs to be unplugged for a minute. You get 1 IP from your ISP, and the modem assigns that IP to the MAC address of the first thing it sees, in this case, your PC. So you probably just need to power cycle the modem after attaching your router before it will give the IP address over to it.
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Sep 16, 2014 23:18
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Weird, I had initially done exactly that and it still didn't work, but just in case I'm an idiot (and it turns out I am), I decided to do exactly that one more time and here I am posting a reply on my computer through the router. I should still get a new router though, really. Thing doesn't even do 802.11N
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Sep 16, 2014 23:30
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I have a wireless network running to a DSL modem/wirelss router. Just in the last week or so, my internet connection on my PC has dropped from the usual 15m/sec to around 2, but only my PC, not the other devices (PS3, iphone, etc). My PC is connected with this, which is cheap as hell but has worked ok until recently. My apartment is small and there is a line of sight from the router to the wireless adapter. Does anyone know what could have happened? edit: only download speed is reduced, upload is its usual (wimpy, but the best I can get here) 1m/sec. Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Sep 17, 2014 |
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Sep 17, 2014 18:11
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Perhaps a neighbor has brought in a higher power wireless access point that uses the same channel as yours and is close by, thereby stepping on your signal. Have you used any utilities to look at what the wifi bands look like and see how much and how strong the equipment is that's running nearby?
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Sep 17, 2014 19:40
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CrazyLittle posted:Use the support chat to get them to set it in bridge mode. Otherwise get yourself a surfboard modem and return that one to the local office. They tried putting it into bridge mode and it wouldn't assign an IP address to my external interface. I even tried plugging my laptop directly into it for good measure, but to no effect. I'd return the loving thing to the branch office, but I'm sure the replacement they'd give me would be hosed up and ultimately end up costing me a $50 service charge.
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Sep 17, 2014 20:18
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