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For TJs that spend lots of time at the beach, I would make sure to knock on the frame rail near every control arm bracket and along the entire length of where the skid plate/transmission crossmember bolts into the frame. That area likes to hold salt/sand/mud/water mixes and rot. Look at the rear differential cover and see if it has a rubber plug or a screw-in plug. The rubber plug means it's a dana 35; while strong enough for street driving, it won't stand up to tires over 33" or lockers, if your friend is looking to modify in that direction. A screw-in plug means that it's a dana 44, a stronger axle that can handle 35" tires and lockers. If you have the 35 in the back, the front will be a 30; 44 in the rear usually means a 44 in the front.
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Sep 6, 2014 23:55
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EightBit posted:For TJs that spend lots of time at the beach, I would make sure to knock on the frame rail near every control arm bracket and along the entire length of where the skid plate/transmission crossmember bolts into the frame. That area likes to hold salt/sand/mud/water mixes and rot. For TJs I'm pretty sure only the Rubicon had the 44 front. My sport came with the 44 rear and a 30 in front.
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Sep 7, 2014 01:46
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EightBit posted:For TJs that spend lots of time at the beach, I would make sure to knock on the frame rail near every control arm bracket and along the entire length of where the skid plate/transmission crossmember bolts into the frame. That area likes to hold salt/sand/mud/water mixes and rot. Thanks for the info! It's for my sister and I don't see her off-roading anytime soon.
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Sep 7, 2014 02:07
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Sports typically come stock with a D30 front and a D35 rear; the D44 rear is a factory option. If those chrome tube steps weren't in the way you would be able to tell in the picture. At least it has the rare I6 as opposed to the ultra-common V6's on craigslist. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Sep 7, 2014 |
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Sep 7, 2014 02:08
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Philip J Fry posted:Sports typically come stock with a D30 front and a D35 rear; the D44 rear is a factory option. If those chrome tube steps weren't in the way you would be able to tell in the picture. As long as the engine looks and runs good we shouldn't be concerned with the 180k miles right? It should run to 250+ easily with proper care right?
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Sep 7, 2014 02:16
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in a 97 it shouldn't be an 0331 head (iirc those came to the TJ in 99 or 2000 like the XJs) so hell it should hit 250k with nothing except oil changes and coolant if you get adventurous. Mine have and I am not nice to them.
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Sep 7, 2014 02:29
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Philip J Fry posted:Sports typically come stock with a D30 front and a D35 rear; the D44 rear is a factory option. If those chrome tube steps weren't in the way you would be able to tell in the picture. What the gently caress are you smoking  ? TJ's had a 4-banger or the I6, which isn't rare in any sense.mattfl posted:As long as the engine looks and runs good we shouldn't be concerned with the 180k miles right? It should run to 250+ easily with proper care right? You need to run an oil with higher ZDDP content (most people just call it zinc) if you want to see mileage like that, but there are still plenty, like Shell Rotella T (I think, I don't use it) and Mobil 1 High-mileage blends.
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Sep 7, 2014 03:48
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EightBit posted:What the gently caress are you smoking It was the joke about how nobody on Craigslist understands the difference between an I6 and a V6 
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Sep 7, 2014 03:57
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EightBit posted:You need to run an oil with higher ZDDP content (most people just call it zinc) if you want to see mileage like that, but there are still plenty, like Shell Rotella T (I think, I don't use it) and Mobil 1 High-mileage blends. Rotella T has the higher ZDDP. It works well for old flat tappet motors, diesels, tractors (jeeps ). Plus it has a poo poo load of detergents, so it will clean a ton of crap up.
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Sep 7, 2014 03:59
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mattfl posted:As long as the engine looks and runs good we shouldn't be concerned with the 180k miles right? It should run to 250+ easily with proper care right? My '99 XJ is at 188k and running great. The only stuff I've had to fix have been normal wear items like rear springs, shocks, crank position sensor, spark plugs, etc. Engine seems as happy as a clam with just oil changes. Parts are super cheap when stuff does break and most stuff is easy as hell to work on (unless its rusted).
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Sep 7, 2014 04:25
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Went a took a look this morning. It road really well, transmission shifted smooth, and the transfer case worked great. The only small bit of rust I saw was on the drivers door along the edge of the door near the door handle, nothing a little paint can't fix. Tires will probably need to be replaced in another 5k miles or so but there are cheap sets all day long on Craigslist. Interior carpet could use to be replaced but that's $150 new from amazon for the whole thing. Engine looked pretty clean for 180k miles, no obvious signs of oil anywhere it shouldn't be. Axles looked good too. They offered her 2k for her POS car she has now that probably isn't worth 2k and is starting to break down so she's look at $4500 for the Jeep which isn't too bad around here where a beat to poo poo Jeep that's running will get 3k all day long.
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Sep 7, 2014 14:51
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Please convince me to not make a terrible decision http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/4656175169.html 170k miles but 90k miles on the motor sounds fishy, what do I look for?
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Sep 8, 2014 00:36
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ewiley posted:Please convince me to not make a terrible decision Crawl underneath with a flashlight and read the block casting code (was low-drivers side on mine, might have to shove your phone up there and photograph it), google it on the spot and see if the engine has been swapped? Read up on the I6 and try to spot any differences to see if you have post-2001 model. It looks like a good price to me, depending on what you want to do with it . I'd make sure all of the electronic/dash poo poo works, because that's the least fun to work on. Check which rear axle it has (Don't want the D35). Ask I bought a beat up 1988 a few months ago and have been having a filthy blast going through and replacing all the usual leaky seal poo poo, but I'm kind of a masochist.
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Sep 8, 2014 03:08
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EightBit posted:What the gently caress are you smoking hahahahah WOOOOOSH
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Sep 8, 2014 08:36
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Crawl underneath with a flashlight and read the block casting code (was low-drivers side on mine, might have to shove your phone up there and photograph it), google it on the spot and see if the engine has been swapped? Read up on the I6 and try to spot any differences to see if you have post-2001 model. It looks like a good price to me, depending on what you want to do with it . I'd make sure all of the electronic/dash poo poo works, because that's the least fun to work on. Check which rear axle it has (Don't want the D35). Ask Awesome, thanks for the info. I definitely want something reliable but I'm willing to do some work. This is basically going to be a second car for winter commuting and a little light off road use. Reading about the 2000 head cracking issues I wonder if that's why the engine was swapped so soon in its life. From what I've read the update casting can be seen through the oil filter cap. I'll see if I can check it out today, thanks again
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Sep 8, 2014 10:30
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ewiley posted:Awesome, thanks for the info. I definitely want something reliable but I'm willing to do some work. This is basically going to be a second car for winter commuting and a little light off road use. yup. 
Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Sep 8, 2014 |
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Sep 8, 2014 16:17
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So apparently the dealers brother sold the Jeep without telling him so my sister is back on the hunt for another Jeep. Sucks too because it was drat clean for the year.
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Sep 8, 2014 16:37
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Just got to work and noticed a trail of fluid by where I parked. Popped the hood and it looks like what I presume is the oil pressure sensor is leaking oil. Junk yard or buy new?
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Sep 8, 2014 21:22
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goobernoodles posted:Just got to work and noticed a trail of fluid by where I parked. Popped the hood and it looks like what I presume is the oil pressure sensor is leaking oil. Junk yard or buy new? New. Those things break all the time.
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Sep 8, 2014 21:28
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New oil pressure sensor for sure - they tend to break and a used one may not even come out in one piece. Make sure you clean the area well with brakleen and crank the engine over a little before changing it out, if you get dirt into the sender port it'll eventually find its way into the bearings as I believe the pressure is measured after the filter.ewiley posted:Awesome, thanks for the info. I definitely want something reliable but I'm willing to do some work. This is basically going to be a second car for winter commuting and a little light off road use. Looks like you've already been told and/or found all the bad stuff I was gonna say. Basically the issue is the head, but it destroys the bearings and block if driven for too long after cracking. Look for the TUPY mark where Sandbagger showed it being, those are the good ones.
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Sep 8, 2014 23:14
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Got it swapped out. Doesn't look like it's leaking oil anymore but I'll keep checking the level. I guess that's why the oil pressure gauge never worked.  Noticed I'm leaking coolant right above the sensor. Anyone know what I'm looking at here?  (click for zoom)
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Sep 8, 2014 23:56
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Yup. heater core bypass valve. They break about as regularly as the pressure sensor. Either bypass/remove it or replace it. They're only about $12 at the parts store.
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Sep 9, 2014 03:16
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My vote is on bypass it, but either way get the new one or stuff to bypass it before touching it again because those things are made from plastic whose fragility rivals that of the BMW thread GDCS sufferers. I broke mine in half when I slid the sparkplug socket and extension past it back in 2008 and ended up bypassing it straight to the heater core with 1/2" copper water pipe because it was what I had on hand and I didn't feel like walking to the parts store. It is pretty dumb anyways, they did away with the valve entirely on 97-01 models.
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Sep 9, 2014 03:21
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mod sassinator posted:My '99 XJ is at 188k and running great. The only stuff I've had to fix have been normal wear items like rear springs, shocks, crank position sensor, spark plugs, etc. Engine seems as happy as a clam with just oil changes. Parts are super cheap when stuff does break and most stuff is easy as hell to work on (unless its rusted). Same with mine, although I'm doing the deferred maintenance the last owner didn't do and replacing all the inexpensive consumable parts that should have been swapped around 150k. Need to do the radiator and heater hoses this weekend if it ever stops loving raining, and I'm going to do the water pump and thermostat at the same time because I'm not sure of their age and the parts are all of $30 total. Only really expensive things I have left to fix are four tires and some exhaust system work, and that may be reasonably cheap too. Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Sep 10, 2014 |
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Sep 10, 2014 17:37
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New Jeep stuff!! Crawler Conceptz Stinger, poison spyder fairlead light mount and 2 new cube LEDS for the bumper. Install will start tomorrow!
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Sep 10, 2014 22:50
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mattfl posted:New Jeep stuff!! Careful, your heavy steal bumper is FRAGILE.
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Sep 10, 2014 23:39
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Kastivich posted:Careful, your heavy steal bumper is FRAGILE. Amazingly enough that's exactly how it was shipped with Fedex. The footprints all over it tell me it wasn't handle with care!
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Sep 11, 2014 00:57
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Woohoo, got my winch today! Looked over all the accessories and poo poo, but it was already dark so I didnt bother lifting the winch itself out of the box yet. Now I just need a decent bumper to bolt it to...
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Sep 11, 2014 03:41
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Kastivich posted:Careful, your heavy steal bumper is FRAGILE. Must be Italian.
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Sep 11, 2014 04:39
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Took me all drat day, but I got it all done! Old bumper off, ready to start cutting!  Crash bar gone!  Other stuff gone  All done!   Leftovers!  Still need to wire up all the lights, but I'll knock that out this weekend.
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Sep 11, 2014 23:42
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mattfl posted:Leftovers! Man it seems like you might have needed some of that stuff  That's a pretty great approach angle now!
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Sep 12, 2014 00:06
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Damnit I wish ANY of that were legal here.
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Sep 12, 2014 20:25
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Godholio posted:Damnit I wish ANY of that were legal here. Where in the world do you live that putting a different bumper on is illegal?
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Sep 12, 2014 20:32
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Most states with safety inspections, technically. How much it matters depends entirely on how old the vehicle is, how stringent the inspections are, and how much you piss off the inspector. Make sure you repaint any cut metal edges so they don't rust.
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Sep 12, 2014 21:00
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Playing devil's advocate, I could see safety conscious lawmakers taking issue with replacing your bumper with one that is more dangerous to pedestrians (solid and shaped to push you under the vehicle) and more dangerous to both drivers in an accident (removes the force dampening effects of the stock bumper and probably interferes with crumple zone design). None of which I have a problem with for people who actually go off-road (i.e. the people doing it in this thread) since there are few pedestrians and many low speed collisions with trees/rocks in the woods, but I hate people that put a bunch of armor (assuming it can even be called that) on their trucks for aesthetic reasons. ...unless they hit a cyclist riding on the road instead of using the sidewalk, in which case they're OK in my book.
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Sep 12, 2014 21:06
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Cat Hatter posted:...unless they hit a cyclist riding on the road instead of using the sidewalk, in which case they're OK in my book. Cyclist are not allowed to ride on the sidewalk in Texas.
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Sep 12, 2014 21:17
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mattfl posted:Where in the world do you live that putting a different bumper on is illegal? It depends on the bumper. Stubbies are a no-no. Most places with safety inspections require a bumper's width to be equal to the vehicle's original treadline width (basically center of tread to center of tread.
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Sep 12, 2014 21:27
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JEEVES420 posted:Cyclist are not allowed to ride on the sidewalk in Texas. Yeah, I was thinking of that as I posted it. I should have said something more along the lines of "Cyclists who hold up traffic on busy roads with a speed limit well in excess of what a bicycle is capable of." I just have a pet peeve with everyone telling me to "share the road" even though the new wisdom in bicycle safety is to ride in the center of the lane so that cars have to change lanes to pass (hopefully not causing an accident as they unexpectedly come upon someone doing 20mph less than traffic) and the cyclist doesn't need to pay as much attention to side streets.
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Sep 12, 2014 22:08
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Godholio posted:It depends on the bumper. Stubbies are a no-no. Most places with safety inspections require a bumper's width to be equal to the vehicle's original treadline width (basically center of tread to center of tread. Wow, did not know that. Good thing I live in florida where we don't have vehicle inspections at all!
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Sep 12, 2014 22:13
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It's crazy to me that here in California, where everything is ridiculously over regulated, we don't have inspections. My tires stick out a couple of inches and I have a stubby bumper and I've never been hassled. I also drive pretty reasonably so that probably helps.
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Sep 12, 2014 22:20
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