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Cat Hatter posted:Next time it overheats, check the upper radiator hose. If its hot, then it (probably) isn't the thermostat or water pump. You might have a hell of a clog (or tstat or pump problem) but considering how fast its overheating I'd say either thermostat (verifiable by checking the radiator hose) or air pocket. Last time I did my cooling system it took days and over a half dozen heating cycles to fully burp all the air out. The last goon with your problem didn't believe me and spent a bunch of money he didn't really have to. I just didn't see you say it. Or there are a few of us who spent money we didn't have to.
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Oct 14, 2014 17:30
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I was right, the water pump was shot.   And it was raining all morning.
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Oct 14, 2014 19:42
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Horse Divorce posted:I was right, the water pump was shot. Your WP was shot 50k miles ago. 
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Oct 14, 2014 20:50
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Horse Divorce posted:I was right, the water pump was shot. It's good to know that there's a good bit of circulation from just thermal differences 
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Oct 14, 2014 20:51
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I've still got it in a box and I'm thinking of creative ways to destroy it, punish it for making the mistake of failing on me. Jeep's running great now, and the heater is the best it's ever been. Now I've got to schedule that coolant system flush.
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Oct 14, 2014 21:17
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Horse Divorce posted:I was right, the water pump was shot. Dang, that's impressive.
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Oct 14, 2014 21:20
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gently caress, that thing was done. Good call. Backflush the heater core and then stick a garden hose in the upper rad hose with the lower one disconnected, then flush out the radiator too. Pull the block drain plug (it's on the driver side and takes a 5/16 square drive, HF has a set of assorted drain plug bits including this for $10) and let the last of the hose water drain out, then put it all back together and fill it with new coolant. If it gets gunked up again, consider a CLR treatment. Careful putting that poo poo through the heater core though because it may be about to wear out at this point, 22 years is a good lifespan for a heater core, and they sorta suck to do.
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Oct 14, 2014 21:33
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I've tried pulling the block train plug but it just won't move. I've got the bit for it and it simply won't move. I'll try my breaker bar on it but I'd have to get an adapter, but I don't think it's gonna happen. What do you know about a CLR treatment? I'm sure I can use it. Just imagine the nastiest coolant system you've ever seen, and I promise mine is worse. The head gasket worry of mine didn't come from this overheating episode, it's always been ugly. And I know about how tough heater cores can be, I don't look forward to it but I know it might be an eventuality. I'll spend the extra cash and get a brass one if I must, but I'm delaying it for as long as possible. EDIT: And thanks for the help, guys. I appreciate it. JukeboxHerostratus fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Oct 14, 2014 |
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Oct 14, 2014 21:39
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I've seen some pretty butt ugly cooling systems but I'll take your word for it. You can go without pulling the drain plug, it's just nice to be able to get the very last bit of hose water out so your mix ratio isn't thrown off and there isn't any dissolved mineral content in your coolant. Whatever you do will be better than it is now, so I wouldn't sweat it too much. Maybe park on the steepest hill you can with a nose-down attitude to minimize the amount trapped, if you give a poo poo.
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Oct 14, 2014 23:01
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Horse Divorce posted:I was right, the water pump was shot. Why does your water pump look like its been on fire?
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Oct 15, 2014 00:19
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4 liters with 200k+ miles have seen some poo poo.
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Oct 15, 2014 00:22
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mod sassinator posted:4 liters with 200k+ miles have seen some poo poo.  For real.
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Oct 15, 2014 00:57
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mod sassinator posted:4 liters with 200k+ miles have seen some poo poo. Agreed, but that water pump looks like it came out of the Apollo 1 capsule. (I linked the wiki because its the first picture on the page and I don't want that picture showing up on my hosting later)
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Oct 15, 2014 01:14
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I told you it was overheating But for real, the valve cover gasket was leaking. Gasket was replaced a while ago, but I never got to degrease it.
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Oct 15, 2014 01:36
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Horse Divorce posted:I told you it was overheating I can confirm it was just greasy and grimy. I had to stand in the rain for 3 hours watching you pull this stupid thing off. At least I got a good laugh when we saw how hosed it was. I'm waiting for the day when the missing impellers shoot out of the block.
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Oct 15, 2014 01:42
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I'd be surprised if they're intact anymore. He described the coolant as looking like red mud, I'd wager that's a good part of where they went.
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Oct 15, 2014 04:20
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I finally quit slacking off and properly attached my CB antenna. Now instead of poorly attached via one bolt in the old tailgate bumpstop location, its properly secured to the bumpstop itself. Only problem is I didnt notice the bumpstop sits at a slight angle when drilling the holes, so now the antenna points forward a bit.    Hopefully now I wont have to reattach it every time I clip a low hanging tree branch.
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Oct 18, 2014 01:37
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I just ordered an IRO 3" lift, adjustable track bar, Moog steering stabilizer, and Bilstein 5100s. I'd blame you all, but I think I'm just an idiot for not being able to leave a Jeep alone. Hopefully this will let me run 31's without needing to trim anything. My new Akebono calipers, rotors, and pads arrived this week, so I can get rid of this lovely '99 Teves warped rotor problem. I'm installing those tomorrow along with some LED strips to fix the broken lighting in my center console shifter area. Also I found an '01 Limited paint matched grill on ebay to replace the nasty fake chrome one. 
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Oct 19, 2014 04:11
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I'll be taking my 99 TJ on a short road trip from Tampa up to Ocala National Forest next weekend for a couple of nights of camping. We'll be driving around on some trails most likely while out there and I want to make sure my poo poo's working right. The 4wd has been used seldomly and gingerly in my Jeep's 15 years. Mostly just in short runs when I find myself off pavement, just for the sake of engaging it. Is there anything I should check or inspect before heading off? Or am I just overthinking things? We're not talking serious wheeling or anything, most likely just some sugar sand and the random bit of water or mud. The drive system/ 4wd has never had an issue, but better safe than sorry I suppose.
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Oct 19, 2014 17:56
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Change the ATF in the transfer case, if it hasn't been done before. Might be a good time to check the oil in your differentials, too.
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Oct 19, 2014 18:30
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Horse Divorce posted:I've tried pulling the block train plug but it just won't move. I've got the bit for it and it simply won't move. I'll try my breaker bar on it but I'd have to get an adapter, but I don't think it's gonna happen. I did the CLR treatment for the heater core in my 99 so I could have heat in the winter. If it works: yay you have cabin heat and the system works and is unclogged If it doesn't work: boo still clogged If it works TOO well: now you have pin hole leaks in your heater core and coolant raining on your passengers feet and either have to loop your heater core hoses or pull the dash and replace the core. It's a gamble. I got lucky when I did it but YMMV.
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Oct 20, 2014 00:49
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 Miss the stump, hit the tree; it is the wrangler way.
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Oct 20, 2014 01:50
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Finally took the XJ about an hour away this weekend to get to some of the only moderate offroad trails still open nearby. Got a late start and fought traffic, but got to the area just before sundown. I had been consulting a large pile of maps all week, and headed for a road not marked on most maps but shows up on an obscure "dispersed camping" Forest Service handout as "4x4 HIGH CLEARANCE ONLY". This doesn't mean much, except that I'm in Los Angeles and there is nothing within an hour that isn't gated and chained. The road was great, just tough enough to be fun... some old pre-Civil War mining road ravaged by floods and kept alive by deer hunters. Plenty of deep-rutted river crossings and eroded switchbacks. I got about halfway up before light got scarce and the road got off-camber on the side of the canyon. My long-suffering girlfriend on her first 4WD trip ever was starting to hyperventilate, so I backed it down far enough turn around for a level spot to set up camp. She did manage to get one photo of me going back down in 4Lo as the brakes were starting to fade with a full Glamping camp load.  Inspected things the next morning to see how the old shitpile took it/how my recent work stood up. All was good and tight except for the stock front swaybar links which, uhh, didn't do so well with the new 3" lift. Glad I put on new bushings before bending everything   Time for beefier disconnects  That canyon was fuckin' gloomy and some truck tried to drive though our damned campsite late after we'd gone to bed. He had to turn around because I had parked the Jeep to block entrance to the site; having earlier noted the plentiful amounts of broken bottles and .223 brass around the edges and coming to my own quiet conclusions. Next morning we packed up and drove back out for a better site.  A bit more altitude on some easy roads got a much better spot.  The old Renix ran very well though, and easily got me as far as I was willing to push it. I did fight wheelspin/loss of traction (especially vs. rocks uphill), but I attribute that to the lovely stock-size Goodyear Wranglers and open diffs. Nothing fell off after my months of n00b tinkering, nothing exploded, so I'm pleased with it. Thanks for all the advice, thread! (shoutout to kastein ) 
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Oct 20, 2014 |
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Oct 20, 2014 02:42
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EightBit posted:Change the ATF in the transfer case, if it hasn't been done before. Might be a good time to check the oil in your differentials, too. Thanks!
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Oct 20, 2014 03:46
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Brake swap. What a difference. No wobbles or shimmies. Just smooth, controlled stops.  Out with the old.  In with the new.  I did happen to catch this issue. I'll pop in a new shaft when I do the lift in a few weeks.  And a shot of my running fleet. I never thought I'd ever own just American cars. Yes I'm including the Eagle (and the Bricklin). 
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Oct 20, 2014 04:07
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BoostCreep posted:Brake swap. What a difference. No wobbles or shimmies. Just smooth, controlled stops. I'm tempted to do a rotor + pad job myself eventually - while I don't get any feedback in the pedal, I do get uneven braking performance (like it's grabbing then letting go, over and over) when I'm just about stopped. And I do already have the Akebono calipers on my '03. What kind of fuel mileage are you getting on yours, by the way? I'm averaging right around 15-16, which while I get that it's supposed to be loving terrible, seems a bit worse than it should be. I need to hook up my OBD2 scanner and see where the fuel trims are at. The O2 sensors are almost certainly original on mine. And if you're including "made somewhere in America" then I've been in that boat since last year when I traded the Mazdaspeed3 in on the CR-V - built in Ohio. Though I suppose the WJ is the first vehicle I've ever owned that was actually built in Detroit, or even anywhere in Michigan.  Phone doesn't do the sky tonight justice. Managed to con the wife into coming with me while she had her DSLR, the light on the mountains at sunset was goddamn crazy tonight. Took the same road I did last time, though I managed to finally find a couple of bumps big enough to scrape tonight. Scraped the hitch on one while reversing, bumped what had to be the safari bar on another. That bar really does cut into the approach angle on this thing something awful, but it will make a good spot to mount a LED bar. Edit: I mentioned to my wife that there's no shortage of JK wheel/tire takeoffs on Craigslist, but that the WJ can't run them without a lift. "So lift it."
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Oct 20, 2014 |
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Oct 20, 2014 04:33
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Phew..busy weekend! Both fronts were rusted down like this. Cut and ground down some steel and Billy welded it in. Old vs new:  Finally!  Old pan..and yes, the tub had a crack in it:  Dat gap..  So far so good. Handles alot better, doesn't feel harsh, just..purposeful? Doesn't wallow in turns or bumps, goes over manhole covers and potholes and doesn't transmit it into the cabin. Wish I had more photos, but was busy working and didn't wanna gently caress up my phone. Insulators were CRUNCHY though, glad I bought replacements!
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Oct 20, 2014 06:04
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Nice! Yeah those Bilstein shocks are firm in all the right ways. I really like them a lot.
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Oct 20, 2014 06:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm tempted to do a rotor + pad job myself eventually - while I don't get any feedback in the pedal, I do get uneven braking performance (like it's grabbing then letting go, over and over) when I'm just about stopped. And I do already have the Akebono calipers on my '03. What kind of fuel mileage are you getting on yours, by the way? That was the exact problem I was having. It would surge while coming to a stop and drove me crazy. I have heard of people still getting that issue with the Akebono calipers. Apparently the solution is getting Stillen rotors, according to Kolak. I'm hoping to be ok with these Centric rotors, but if the issue returns I'll pony up for the Stillens as suggested. As for fuel mileage, I honestly haven't driven it enough yet under normal circumstances to figure that out. It needs an alignment since the front tires are cupping and wearing unevenly. There's also the slightest pull to the left at highway speeds too. I'll get a baseline mileage estimate before the bigger tires go on though. I'm sure it needs new plugs, fuel filter, and general maintenance stuff. IOwnCalculus posted:Edit: I mentioned to my wife that there's no shortage of JK wheel/tire takeoffs on Craigslist, but that the WJ can't run them without a lift. "So lift it." And it begins. But you know she knows your game there. Way too obvious. That one will come back to bite you for sure  What kind of prices are you seeing for takeoffs in your area? The prices have jumped in SoCal in the last month. Rubicon takeoffs are in the $1000-$1200 range now for 5 wheels and tires. $600 or so for Sport or Sahara models, but I don't want Wrangler SRA tires. I'm starting to think it might just make sense to pick up a set of Cooper Adventurers from PepBoys while they have their 3 for 4 deal. It'd be around $520 installed for 4, which is still cheaper than competing shops even with their mandatory road hazard purchase.
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Oct 20, 2014 09:47
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The only problem with lifting a jeep for larger tires is that it means you now want to regear the axles... and upgrade the shocks... and now it needs bumpers because they somehow got run into a bunch of rocks and poo poo... and then it needs an SYE and undercarriage armor and alloy shafts and lockers... hmmm time for a winch... whoops, blew up the transmission and the thing is overheating, so it needs an aftermarket radiator and a built transmission. And then it looks like it got chewed up and spat out and cost you 5-10k in between looking nice and being a trail rig. And I wouldn't have it any other way.
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Oct 20, 2014 18:04
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Oh she's already put up with more automotive poo poo than anyone should have to. Wife approval factor or not, though, I think properly solving all of the problems 32" imposes on a WJ (actual lift instead of budget boost, body trimming / clearancing the front fenderwells, spare tire carrier) is going to cost a lot more than I want to deal with right now. Looks like I can snag a set of five of the "Moab" five-spoke JK 17" wheels (no tires) for $100 or so. To get the actual Rubicon wheels with 32" BFG M/Ts seems to run anywhere from $400 for a worn-rear end set up to around $800-$1100 for new/like-new. Of course, drat near everything on CL can be negotiated, and the more expensive ones have been sitting on CL for weeks. If I go with the JK wheels and stick with something in stock or very close to stock size, Discount has Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S tires for $138 each plus mounting / balancing. Certainly no BFG M/T but still a lot better than the Long Trail T/As I have now. kastein posted:The only problem with lifting a jeep for larger tires is that it means you now want to regear the axles... and upgrade the shocks... and now it needs bumpers because they somehow got run into a bunch of rocks and poo poo... and then it needs an SYE and undercarriage armor and alloy shafts and lockers... hmmm time for a winch... whoops, blew up the transmission and the thing is overheating, so it needs an aftermarket radiator and a built transmission. Yep across the board there. As much as I like this WJ, I think if I ever get to the point where I'm past what I can do with at most a budget boost and whatever tires that will clear - I'll put that money towards upgrading to a JKU instead.
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Oct 20, 2014 18:06
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The rear passenger-side valve cover bolt on my J10 looked a little off. I tried to tighten it down, and it spun but wouldn't sink. So I tried to remove it, but it spun and wouldn't rise. Something fishy was afoot, so I grabbed the bolthead with a pair of pliers and pulled it out. The bolt is the wrong size, and the previous owner knew that. So he wrapped it in tape to make a snugger fit to limp through a sale.  I can't wait to drop a 4.0 in here. JukeboxHerostratus fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Oct 20, 2014 |
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Oct 20, 2014 21:15
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Wow - that's a pretty great PO "gently caress you".
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Oct 20, 2014 21:41
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Horse Divorce posted:The rear passenger-side valve cover bolt on my J10 looked a little off. I tried to tighten it down, and it spun but wouldn't sink. So I tried to remove it, but it spun and wouldn't rise. Something fishy was afoot, so I grabbed the bolthead with a pair of pliers and pulled it out. Could be because he was an inbred retard who thought deer horns should be haphazardly tied to the front of a truck and that masking tape was unimportant when painting a vehicle, too. Never attribute to malice what is explained perfectly by stupidity (Those are probably 1/4 or 5/16 coarse thread. I forget which. Grade is unimportant, but I like the look of gold chromate plated flange head grade 8s so I use em.)
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Oct 20, 2014 22:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:Oh she's already put up with more automotive poo poo than anyone should have to. Wife approval factor or not, though, I think properly solving all of the problems 32" imposes on a WJ (actual lift instead of budget boost, body trimming / clearancing the front fenderwells, spare tire carrier) is going to cost a lot more than I want to deal with right now. I just went with a 3" IRO lift for $378, which includes adjustable track bar, springs, and endlinks, then Bilstein 5100s for $289 and $100 for new isolators. That lets me run 31's disco'd without any rubbing and will apparently let you run 32's with minor trimming of the front bumper and liner. I'm probably just going to get new tires for my stock wheels to save money. I'd rather have 16" wheels than the JK 17's anyway. I thought about going with a 4" lift, but that requires a new front driveshaft, longer control arms, and other stuff that I wasn't into spending the money on. It also lets me avoid the wrath of Kastein on the adjustable caster bolt of IRO's 4" long arm lift. I'll be very happy with a 3" lift and 31's for a long time. That's what I had on my XJ and I never hit a wall with where I wanted to go. Two useful things I found on JeepForum:  
BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Oct 21, 2014 |
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Oct 21, 2014 00:26
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Also as soon as I get this lift put together I'm going to want to do a Southwest AI off road meet somewhere. I'm sure there are enough off roading AI folks in this part of the country.
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Oct 21, 2014 00:35
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Honestly, half the reason I want new wheels is that I'd rather have machined/painted wheels than the chrome ones I've got, and with Quadradrive I'd rather run a five-tire rotation. Problem is that the spare is now a non-matching lovely aftermarket thing and isn't even the same tire at all. Normally I'd say getting one matching spare and some plastidip is cheaper... but the chrome wheels I have now are basically nonexistent on Craigslist. The chrome wheels locally on car-part cost more than a set of five JK Moabs. Hell, any Jeep wheel that isn't the 16" steel wheel from the cheapest JKs costs more than a set of five JK Moabs, and I don't want to give up my TPMS to run those.
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Oct 21, 2014 00:43
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So you're saying you have 4 chrome wheels and a non-chrome spare? I'm sure you could pick up a set of non-chrome wheels off a junkyard WJ for dirt cheap? You could also sell the stocker chromes on Craigslist if they are that rare to make up the cost of the JKs.
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Oct 21, 2014 01:14
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kastein posted:Could be because he was an inbred retard who thought deer horns should be haphazardly tied to the front of a truck and that masking tape was unimportant when painting a vehicle, too. Never attribute to malice what is explained perfectly by stupidity You said it. The bolt I pulled was a 5/16 x 24 or something, and it didn't want to work. My brother in Alaska has an 84 Eagle he's playing with, and it's also running a 4.2. I've asked him to pop out the bolt in question and size it up for me. It's possible the threads are stripped, so I might end up doing a helicoil.
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Oct 21, 2014 02:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:Honestly, half the reason I want new wheels is that I'd rather have machined/painted wheels than the chrome ones I've got, and with Quadradrive I'd rather run a five-tire rotation. Problem is that the spare is now a non-matching lovely aftermarket thing and isn't even the same tire at all. Why would you have to give up TPMS?
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Oct 21, 2014 02:41
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