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Ahhhh, ok. I've always known bearings to be a bastard, rusted or not (although rust never helps anything). For me they're one of those things where I CAN do them, but I just hate it so much that I'd rather just pay someone to do it.  You probably already know, but in case you don't, that generation of Subaru had a cloth heated seat option, and if I remember correctly the harness and buttons are pretty short. It might be something to keep your eyes open for if you're a fan of toasty buns like I am.
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Nov 9, 2014 17:38
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| # ? May 19, 2024 17:56 |
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I've never really cared about heated seats but I would kill for air conditioned ones. I drove my XJ through multiple winters with literally no heat , no carpet, and a leaky heater core that necessitated keeping the window open for fresh air, so heat always seems like more of a luxury than a necessity. This will also probably be my first car with functioning AC. The only reason this balljoint is more of a bastard than it needs to be is subaru's illogical socket design - blind hole, so you can't air hammer it out from the back or use a balljoint press, pinch bolt slot and hole to allow ideal infiltration of saltwater and road debris, and the pinch bolt hole is even through drilled to allow rust penetration from the end AND the pinch slot  If they had just used 20 grams more cast steel on the inside where the pinch bolt goes through, eliminated the bolt, and made it a press-in through hole design like, oh, every other automaker on the planet, this would have been a 20 minute, 1 beer ordeal. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Nov 9, 2014 |
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Nov 9, 2014 18:09
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kastein posted:Reminder, you can get AWD audis too. They are easier to work on. Even the old first generations of 4matic arent as bad as the subaru stuff.
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Nov 9, 2014 18:24
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This pile of poo poo is leaking coolant, probably from one of the fittings I disturbed while doing the rad support replacement, so we are probably going to dig in, find out why, and put the new ac condenser in tonight. Audi puts a through bolt and a nut here. Subaru went for maximally unserviceable instead.  gently caress YOU PINCH BOLT  (Came out with a propane torch, 14mm gearwrench, and 8lb hammer. Who needs an impact when you have a big hammer and a wrench with a lifetime warranty?  )gently caress YOU TOO rust packed socket of stupidity designed by a loving moron  Bearings and balljoints tomorrow, worked on the foundation today instead of the subaru. kastein fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Nov 9, 2014 |
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Nov 9, 2014 22:26
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How bent from straight is your middle finger?
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Nov 9, 2014 22:44
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I replaced my windshield wipers today, and felt accomplished afterwards. Then I read some Ken thread and feel like a failure of a human being. 
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Nov 10, 2014 05:18
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Why the hell is the ball joint cup in the knuckle and not on the arm like every other Japanese manufacturer? "What the hell is this guy going on about...oh. OH!
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Nov 10, 2014 05:34
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kastein posted:When I win the lottery I am putting a 100 thousand dollar bounty on any subaru engineer's head, and buying back and crushing every subaru in massachusetts. Good....let the hate flow through you.....
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Nov 10, 2014 10:11
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InterceptorV8 posted:Good....let the hate flow through you..... Do I get to electrocute and choke whoever designed this abomination? Sign me the gently caress up. Some info that may be of use to Subaru nerds working on suspension: Rear subframe to chassis bolts (4) are M12x1.25 Rear differential snout T-bar to chassis bolts (2) are also M12x1.25 Rear differential mounting studs (the ones that go into the cover) are M12x1.75 at the diff cover end, M12x1.25 at the bushing/nut end Front balljoint pinch bolts are M10x1.25 Fortunately I have either ordered all these taps or already owned them. Assuming all the bolts come out, I'm going to chase all the threads to get the rust out, and ordered brand new bolts... which are going in with an assload of loctite or antiseize. No more rusty threads for me. As for the middle finger it's just fine, I think I took that picture at a funny angle or something.
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Nov 10, 2014 16:18
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Put my 12 ton HF press (the one I made is staying at home, so I got one for the shop at work on the condition that I can use it whenever I want and take it home whenever I want) together at work and popped the old wheel bearings out of the donor knuckles tonight. The only thing I really need to do now before they are ready to slap in is clean the rust out of the balljoint socket and then load them back up with bearings, seals, spindles, and balljoints. Setting up odd shaped things in a press is always fun.  Sketchy and fun.  Also threw my M10x1.25 tap through the balljoint pinch bolt hole and they cleaned up super well. Turns out both my new balljoints came with new pinch bolts, so I guess I just have to clean all the rust out of the balljoint sockets and install everything now.
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Nov 11, 2014 03:59
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Man, I really want a good press. I keep finding reasons to get one, but space is at a premium and goddamn I need my own garage. Okay, so I bought a HF digital car stethoscope to try to figure out exactly where the knocking is coming from at idle on my 4.0 RENIX 4x4 auto. The knocking only starts after about ~5 miles of driving, the engine sounds great until then. It's pretty erratic; sometimes it's quite noticeable at stoplights and sometimes it's very soft. After a bit of stethoscope work, it is loudest at the bottom rear of the engine (measured against the oil pan), up near the bellhousing. It's quieter if I measure off the bellhousing, so I don't think it's the flexplate but I need to do a thorough visual inspection this Friday. Crankshaft bearings? Urgent or *shrug*?
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Nov 13, 2014 04:18
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A good press is an amazing thing. The one I got is on sale for $130 right now, find an excuse to buy it  (leaf spring bushings or differential setup would be an excellent example) The Ranger is still cursing my existence. Pulled a vacuum on it last night, an hour or two later it had gone from 30" to 0". Not sure what allowable leakage is, or where it is. Also the damned thing requires a quick connect tool I didn't have on hand to change the receiver/dryer so it looks like I'm buying those at lunch.
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Nov 13, 2014 15:35
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There really shouldn't be any leakage. It should easily hold vacuum overnight. Have you checked the evap core?
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Nov 13, 2014 16:33
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He claims it worked before the condenser got punctured. Going to gently caress with it further today. It may also just be the janky quick connects on my AC gauge set, one was leaking a little last time I tried doing this, like noticeably leaking. So I'm not sure if I trust them... HF, you get what you pay for.
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Nov 13, 2014 16:48
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mafoose posted:There really shouldn't be any leakage. It should easily hold vacuum overnight. Unrelated to the problem at hand here, but you really shouldn't leave a system in a vacuum overnight. Even if it is leak free.
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Nov 14, 2014 00:51
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ExplodingSims posted:Unrelated to the problem at hand here, but you really shouldn't leave a system in a vacuum overnight. Even if it is leak free. How come?
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Nov 14, 2014 01:56
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mafoose posted:How come? If you're going to not be able to fill a system right away don't leave it in a vacuum. It's best to fill it asap. If you have nitrogen kicking around though you can fill it with that for a standing pressure test/filler. It doesn't absorb moisture and it keeps the system above atmospheric pressure.
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Nov 14, 2014 02:05
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Pulling a deep vacuum lowers the boiling point of water so it flashes off and gets pulled out of the system. You are right that the leak will suck in air, but after he finds the leak and pulls a vacuum that holds, 30 inches will draw all of that moist air right back out. System has been open a couple days at least, a little air overnight doesn't mean poo poo.
iForge fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 04:23
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The thing got a hole poked in its condenser in august. Anything that would be damaged by moisture or air already has been. And yes, drawing a vacuum on it flashes the moisture to vapor, like iForge said. Also - the schrader valves in the test ports only hold pressure. Vacuum from the inside opens them and lets exactly the same air in. PS: subaru is kicking me in the balls again, it can get hosed, I am rapidly losing all remaining respect for this vehicle. If you are going to run like a pile of poo poo and flash the CEL at me for a minute or two, then act normal again, at least have the common loving decency to set the relevant code so I can figure out what the gently caress is going on. gently caress. 
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Nov 14, 2014 05:17
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Yeah, I know this, I pull vacuums on refrigeration systems on an almost daily basis. The whole point of vacuuming a system out is to dry it out, so leaving in a vacuum for an extended period of time, then filling it, as mafoose seemed to be suggesting, defeats the point. If you want to run the pump again after letting it sit, then that solves the problem, but you're just creating more work for yourself. I'm not saying it'd kill the system, I'm just saying it's not really recommended. You can totally dry out a system that's been open for a while, no problem (Ask me about fixing a leak in a suction line that'd been running for months like that in the Florida summer ) but why reintroduce moisture if you can avoid it? Also, Inches of Vacuum? Get on the micron level scrublords.  VV Yeah, that's what I said in my first post too, always vacuum again before filling. And I get it, vacuum testing is actually the best way to test, especially if you can get a micron gauge. VV ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 05:40
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The thing is he's checking system integrity, and although a pressure test would be better not everyone has the equipment to do that, so vacuum test is the way to go. Everyone I've got info from (including Motronic's thread) says to vacuum again before actually recharging.
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Nov 14, 2014 05:47
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Yeah, I am going to vac again right before charging (and not disconnect the gauge set because that will let air in) and in fact planned on charging it last night, but needed to debug the leak. It looks like the plan is to toss uv dye in it and charge it, if it leaks out I will know where. And my vacuum pump goes to a whopping 75 microns (Gauge set is kinda lame though) I have come to the conclusion that the subaru has either a hosed TPS, MAP, or O2. Or wiring issues. Glad that clears things up a lot! Hoping to debug it tomorrow unless I go to maine, in which case I am going to sling some spare parts and tools in the back and haul rear end and just hope I make it there.
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Nov 14, 2014 06:11
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drat. Glad I decided not to take the father in law's rusty Forester that had been sitting for two years gently caress that. Get an old 4cyl Camry dude, they're boring but at least they don't break much. Sounds like you need a car that will just leave you the gently caress alone for awhile
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Nov 14, 2014 07:28
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You must have missed the last 19 times someone suggested that and I noted I live down a steepish rocky dirt road and around a corner, the city doesn't plow it during the winter, and wouldn't even make it to the driveway nevermind out to the paved road if I drove a 2wd vehicle  If it isn't 4wd or AWD and can't be made so, it has no place in my fleet of turds.
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Nov 14, 2014 14:31
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kastein posted:You must have missed the last 19 times someone suggested that and I noted I live down a steepish rocky dirt road and around a corner, the city doesn't plow it during the winter, and wouldn't even make it to the driveway nevermind out to the paved road if I drove a 2wd vehicle I have a bunch of spare sensors and poo poo I can send you home with if you are still coming up here.
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Nov 14, 2014 15:38
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kastein posted:If it isn't 4wd or AWD and can't be made so, it has no place in my fleet of turds. Get a rear-hit Camry and a front-hit MR2. 
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Nov 14, 2014 16:45
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kastein posted:You must have missed the last 19 times someone suggested that and I noted I live down a steepish rocky dirt road and around a corner, the city doesn't plow it during the winter, and wouldn't even make it to the driveway nevermind out to the paved road if I drove a 2wd vehicle Only a month and a half until you can use the five ton to tow your boring commutermobile to the top of the hill?
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Nov 14, 2014 17:14
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kastein posted:
Highlander parts bolt into a camry, and make it awd. and lifted.
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Nov 14, 2014 17:18
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cursedshitbox posted:Highlander parts bolt into a camry, and make it awd. and lifted. Hold the loving phone why did this not occur to me until right now
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Nov 14, 2014 17:20
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Hold the loving phone why did this not occur to me until right now Yeah, I'm hella disappointed in myself for not realizing this beforehand. Lifted AWD V6 beige camry, hollaaa
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Nov 14, 2014 17:22
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Hold the loving phone why did this not occur to me until right now You'll someday learn I have more uses than sending dongsnaps.  Ken really should do this too.
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Nov 14, 2014 17:24
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The 5 ton's tires are about the worst thing in snow. and ehhhhhhh. That is a shitshow. Interesting idea with the camry/highlander.... Alright. Symptoms on the subaru. It did it again. Codes: P0420 cat below efficiency. Would not cause this. It has been driving fine for 3 weeks with this code set. P0440 large evap leak, AKA "hello I am a rusty subaru suck my diiiick" code. Should not cause this. If run normally at temp and turned off for 5-15 minutes, it proceeds to start and run extremely poorly. Misfiring, pig rich (from the smell, not sure, my nose barely works), flashing CEL. No power, low idle, surging idle, stalls if you give it even a hint of an excuse. 1 minute or so later, it recovers and runs perfectly again. Whether I romp on it (like I did last night) or just sit there not touching the controls and wait (like I did today.) No sensor, misfire, or other codes of any use. My scantool doesn't do anything but codes and monitor status, I need to get one that does. Feels related to CTS, heatsoak, O2, MAP, or TPS to me. Probably open vs closed loop related, since it goes jekyll and hyde like a minute after starting. Very odd that it runs great after entering closed loop but awful in open looop, though. Maybe massive vacuum leak (P0440, lol) combined with being in open loop interferes with how subaru handles the feedback loop managing the IAC?
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Nov 14, 2014 20:51
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cursedshitbox posted:Highlander parts bolt into a camry, and make it awd. and lifted. Wait wait wait. What generations are you talking about here?
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Nov 14, 2014 21:28
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Wait wait wait. What generations are you talking about here? ones that might still exist in the rustbelt. the one built from 01-06.
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Nov 14, 2014 21:53
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fuuuuuuck, that would be awesome. our 03 v6 awd highlander would be perfect for a southern shell to be swapped into. sigh.
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Nov 14, 2014 22:42
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kastein posted:The 5 ton's tires are about the worst thing in snow. and ehhhhhhh. That is a shitshow. Knock sensor. edit: Maybe thing about things not directly monitored/controlled, like fuel pressure.
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Nov 14, 2014 22:45
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kastein posted:If it isn't 4wd or AWD and can't be made so, it has no place in my fleet of turds.  
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Nov 14, 2014 23:01
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DJ Commie posted:Knock sensor. I tried loving with the knock sensor and no dice, will have to take a closer look at it and maybe hang a scope on it. Fuel pressure was implicated by a thread I found on rs25 as well. It seems odd that it would kick in on hot starts only (normally I suspect heatsoak/vapor lock in those cases but there is no reason to suspect that here.) Iiiiinteresting.
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Nov 15, 2014 01:20
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I had a very similar problem on a Volvo that ended up being the coolant temp sensor. For a certain temperature range that was also right in the middle of warm-up, it would intermittently fail and the ecu would attempt to fuel the engine as if it was -60° F (or wherever it's table ends up at I forget). No related codes either, just flooded. And yeah a scan tool that shows live data is a great thing.
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Nov 15, 2014 02:04
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 I FINALLY HAVE SOME DTCs! P0301 P0302. #1 #2 misfire. That's the front two cylinders, which I am 95% sure share a waste spark coil... Made it to slow is fast's place for the CJ wiring harness project. On the way up stopped for a bit for food and it poo poo out on me afterwards. Waited 7 minutes of idling without touching the controls, tried to drive it, it pooped out the second I eased up on the clutch, very weak even though I was giving it more than normal throttle. He has an obd2 dongle and Torque, so hopefully we can get it to fail tomorrow and see which sensor reading(s) are going pear shaped. If none, I am going to throw a coilpack at it and see if this appeases the ECU. Unsure if I suspect the CTS or the coilpack more now. Either way, it will be figured out shortly and then I am ordering a goddamn bluetooth obd2 dongle like I should have years ago. E: need to check the harness for signs of damage, too.
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Nov 15, 2014 06:23
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