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kastein posted:Well you are kinda hosed then. There's only one sub-400 dollar full-leaf-pack replacement available on the market as far as I know, it's the Rusty's 4.5" leafs: I'm going to grab a set of the 5 leaf springs. I remember reading in the FSM that the 4wd models are *taller* than the 2wd models and this could be why.
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Jan 2, 2015 14:56
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Those are each prices, not pair prices, BTW - 220 is a bit steep for each leaf spring to me, at least right now, since I'm perfectly happy with my 270 dollar per pair Rustys.
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Jan 2, 2015 16:07
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kastein posted:Those are each prices, not pair prices, BTW - 220 is a bit steep for each leaf spring to me, at least right now, since I'm perfectly happy with my 270 dollar per pair Rustys. OH MAN I did not realize that. D:
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Jan 2, 2015 16:45
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Can't you get them reset/re-leaved for less? Last time I hosed with leaf springs was on an RX3 and I got my springs lowered and an extra 'leaf' added (to help tramp) for less than $250
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Jan 2, 2015 17:01
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I was going to recommend that too, but I bet their leaf packs are rusty as hell. Probably not worth doing.
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Jan 2, 2015 17:02
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Yeah rusty as gently caress, to the point that it's weakening them. Sandbagger's have like a quarter inch of air between them iirc, they've likely been rusted and overloaded to make them spread like that. Mine are about the same.
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Jan 2, 2015 17:30
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I pillaged a 98 forester at the junkyard that was in far better shape than mine, having only been in one accident less damaging than any of the 3 my festering turd has been in. If only the junkyard was allowed to sell whole cars...  Door is now suspiciously clean. And not smashed up.  I was pleasantly surprised with how easy it is to swap subaru doors. Took me 45 minutes including walking into the yard, pulling it, buying it, and installing in the parking lot. One of the guys I know who works the counter there was laughing when I checked out the second time with my fender, and noted that it was a pretty good color match  Got a driver side undented fender, too.  Just need a passenger front door and a hatch and all the bolt on body panels with serious damage will have been replaced. Then I just need to do some rust repair... Also, found the box of MS5015 connectors, so it looks like a trip to maine to do Slow is Fast's dad's CJ5 dashboard/tub rewire is now possible. Remind me to grab a roll of MIL22759/32 wire off my stockpile before heading up. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Jan 4, 2015 |
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Jan 4, 2015 04:05
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We have about ten golf carts at work in my department alone (big campus), and my coworker who does a lot of the maintenance on them approached me to ask about purchasing supplies to upgrade the lovely battery cables on all of them with a larger gauge. I went back and found your battery-cable list, priced it out to supply ~100 batteries/200 cables at 1ft of 2ga each w/terminals and heatshrink, got it approved with my manager, and picked up one of those HF crimpers today.  I'd sure hate to explain frying 100 Interstate deep cycle cart batteries, so the first order of business will be to cut some custom-length test cables for the XJ 
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Jan 7, 2015 03:35
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2ga is going to be stretching things a bit. I usually go with 4ga and the "00" dies for the crimper work perfectly, maybe even a little tight depending on the lugs I purchased that time around. If you have access to a mill, just take the set of dies you're least likely to use (I'd guess the smallest set, they would fit great on like a 20ga crimp and that's what a ratchet crimper is for, no need for hydro) and mill them out to the proper dimensions for #2 lugs and wire.
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Jan 7, 2015 03:43
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Ah drat, I have that exact door that you could have just had.
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Jan 7, 2015 03:46
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kastein posted:2ga is going to be stretching things a bit. I usually go with 4ga and the "00" dies for the crimper work perfectly, maybe even a little tight depending on the lugs I purchased that time around. If you have access to a mill, just take the set of dies you're least likely to use (I'd guess the smallest set, they would fit great on like a 20ga crimp and that's what a ratchet crimper is for, no need for hydro) and mill them out to the proper dimensions for #2 lugs and wire. Yeah, I'm gonna test it out with the largest die and see what happens. My coworker who will be doing all of the cart wires is kind of a muscle-freak and loves to force things, so I'm pretty sure he'll be fine. e: If it's not enough, well, I guess I'll just have to get a better/larger crimper approved for purchase
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jan 7, 2015 |
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Jan 7, 2015 04:05
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kastein posted:2ga is going to be stretching things a bit. I usually go with 4ga and the "00" dies for the crimper work perfectly, maybe even a little tight depending on the lugs I purchased that time around. If you have access to a mill, just take the set of dies you're least likely to use (I'd guess the smallest set, they would fit great on like a 20ga crimp and that's what a ratchet crimper is for, no need for hydro) and mill them out to the proper dimensions for #2 lugs and wire. I just clamped them together in my drill press vise and drilled them out. I also converted one to a hex-die for doing PowerPole connectors by drilling/filing.
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Jan 7, 2015 18:40
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kastein posted:I pillaged a 98 forester at the junkyard that was in far better shape than mine, having only been in one accident less damaging than any of the 3 my festering turd has been in. If only the junkyard was allowed to sell whole cars... 1) Drink vodka, it works for Russia, trust me. 2) Sawzall a relatively clean line bisecting body in half. 3) Purchase back half of car one day/purchase, front half of car next purchase. 4) ????? 5) Profit.
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Jan 7, 2015 18:53
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Well. Long saga here from the weekend. Started out by going to maine and fixing my grandmother's snowblower. One drive cog rounded over due to someone 20 or 30 years ago forgetting to put a thrust washer in place. So I bought a donor snowblower that turned out to have no compatible parts except a part it didn't end up needing, guess I have a snowblower to fix now. Anyways, ended up "remachining" the oilite bushing thrust face that wore out using an orbital sander and then stuck a much thicker thrust washer in to compensate. It'll get her through this winter, I have a new bushing on order to install this summer. Then went junkyarding with Slow is Fast for more CJ5 swap parts. Think we actually got most of the stuff needed this time, it is amazing what happens when you actually check the JY shopping list while still at the yard Got a ton of wiring harness design planning done for it, too, I have a good idea of what is going to be added and how to redo the dash wiring cleanly now. Using a MIL-DTL-5015 connector for the bulkhead, specifically a 32-7 shell with 7 #12 and 28 #16 positions. The harness will have built in provisions for an interior mounted winch remote, offroad lights, electric fan, etc. All connectors sealed to OEM or above OEM standards. Today was new engine procurement time for my dad's poor Ranger. Friday night it finally melted down on the way to vermont and he came home on a flatbed. I knew that was coming... had 5 possible donor vehicles located by the time he got home, all at picknpull yards. We got a very late start and I walked through the gate at the yard at 3:30 with elektrotechnik. Good thing, too, because there is absolutely no way we would have succeeded without his help, we were entirely hosed for time. The complete drivetrain cleared the donor vehicle 1:20 after we got to the yard, just as an employee walked up to tell us we had 10 minutes to get to the register or we were leaving empty handed. Checked out with 4 minutes to spare. Huge thanks to elektrotechnik for showing up on sorta short notice as we would have another 3 hours of driving to do otherwise. kastein fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 00:01
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Victory
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Jan 12, 2015 01:16
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For curiosities sake, what nuked the 3.0?
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Jan 12, 2015 07:49
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Can you hook a brother up with some mil spec connectors? Something with 20-22awg terminals and some larger ones for power distribution?
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Jan 12, 2015 11:18
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No idea what nuked the 3.0 yet, but my money is on a burnt valve or two and some turbofucked rings. Oh and a completely melted cat. He drove it for a long rear end time while ignoring a persistent misfire code and a lovely idle plus low power. I noted this was a bad thing to do, but he swore it was just plugs, we put new ones in. No dice. Put new wires in. No dice. Drove it another few months, I noted this was a bad thing to do and would likely mean a new cat and engine if he wasn't careful. He threw a coil pack on it because it was the last thing to try before digging into the motor. I assumed it wouldn't be that because it was a single cylinder misfire and the system in use is wasted spark. Friday night: I get The Call. Him: so uh, I am halfway to vermont to go skiing and the truck has like no power. It is dropping to 55 on the hills, laboring a lot, oh and when I stopped for gas it was 2 quarts low on oil since like 3 weeks ago. Me: uh, things smoked, I told you not to do that. Call a tow truck, I'll start finding a new motor Him: so I put more oil in after the gauge freaked out, but it did it again. Me: yeah, it is smoked, call a tow truck. Him: oh poo poo, now it is doing it again and the CEL is flashing. Me: WHAT, you're still driving it right at this moment?! CALL A TOW TRUCK, YOU ARE NOT GONNA MAKE IT! So I am guessing lovely plugs due to ignored maint periods resulted in a misfire, which smoked the cat and washed the oil off the cylinder walls and diluted the oil causing accelerated ring and bearing wear, which caused excessive oil consumption which has now led to running full throttle without enough oil. A burned valve or two may also be involved? Betting I will find smoked rings on #1, maybe burned valves, definitely a plugged cat, and most of the rods/mains shagged out and/or spun. Mafoose - sadly all I have are shell size 32 and 36 with #16 (mostly) and some #12 pins sprinkled in. No small connectors with small pins or power sized pins at all I can't complain too much though, that is $1300 in milspec connectors sitting on the bench in Dan's thread and I got them for free because they were in the recycle pile.
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Jan 12, 2015 13:33
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The V6s in Rangers are just a dogshit engine. If your dad is gonna keep pounding on those things he should've gone with a 2.3. Going to guess the rings are turbofucked and at least one of the bores has had its rear end in a top hat torn out. edit: If you inexplicably bought another 3.0L V6, replace the cam synchronizer shaft while it's out of the car. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 17:35
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Yeah another cam synchronizer is on its way here and the new engine is going on a stand tomorrow. The old one comes out of the truck tomorrow as well hopefully. Working alone on this one unless people feel like showing up and making fun of me while I slog through this loving thing in 20 degree weather outside, which ought to be an adventure. The whole drivetrain came out of the donor in like 5 minutes, but I was also hopped up on adrenaline, under an extreme time crunch, and really mad at Ford, so very few fucks were given and it wasn't so much guided carefully out of the vehicle as dragged out violently as I frantically tried to climb the chainfall hoist hand over hand. It caught on the firewall and started lifting the whole vehicle off the stands so I ended up jumping on the radiator support as hard as I could while my dad and elektrotechnik pushed the gantry legs. I really wish that was on film because I sure as gently caress never want to do it again. I fully expect doing it properly to take like 5-6 hours at least. The Vulcan does seem like a delicate, garbage engine, it really annoys me. I did far far worse to the 4.0 in my 98 XJ (cliffs: ran with no oil, blew HG due to PO idiocy, drove another 10-15k foot to the floor, ran out of oil and coolant several times, left it headless in the yard full of water for a year, then fed it 8 lb of thermite, and aside from one thermal crack it would have still been rebuildable or maybe even just runnable with new pistons and 5 minutes with a hone) and the loving thing just laughed. This motor is far too fragile AND makes poo poo for power/torque while getting terrible fuel economy, I'm not sure why Ford used it and the drivetrain of an MJ is quite literally superior in every way 
kastein fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Jan 17, 2015 |
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Jan 17, 2015 03:58
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kastein posted:Yeah another cam synchronizer is on its way here and the new engine is going on a stand tomorrow. The old one comes out of the truck tomorrow as well hopefully. Working alone on this one unless people feel like showing up and making fun of me while I slog through this loving thing in 20 degree weather outside, which ought to be an adventure. mostly because ford 4.0 offering is a worse pile of turd with satanic timing chains. sure the 3.0 is gutless and a shitbox. but there easy to work on and reliable if you take care of them. My dad never changed any fluid but oil on his with the 5spd, and it never did much bad other then sing its power steering pump heart out.
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Jan 17, 2015 14:51
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gently caress the ford 4.0, if any 4.0 goes in this thing it will be a jeep 4.0.
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Jan 17, 2015 18:43
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Agreed. To bad that engine looks a little long for the rangers tiny engine bay
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Jan 17, 2015 18:56
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That sounds like a challenge, and i was wondering if you were just going to drop the jeep 4.0 into every vehicle you own.
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Jan 17, 2015 19:03
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Cakefool posted:That sounds like a challenge, and i was wondering if you were just going to drop the jeep 4.0 into every vehicle you own. This isn't even his truck; he's just going to do it to everyone. People are going to go out in the morning and discover their Prius is now a 6 cylinder.
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Jan 17, 2015 19:24
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Beach Bum posted:This isn't even his truck; he's just going to do it to everyone. People are going to go out in the morning and discover their Prius is now a 6 cylinder. The guys who have swapped Wagoneer 360s into their CJs are gonna be pissed.
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Jan 18, 2015 00:01
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New front CV shafts, cam seals, door switches, and a few other odds and ends ordered for the forester, looks like I am doing the cam seals and timing belt on mine and two coworkers cars (with their assistance - they both want to learn how) sometime next week. Can't wait to have a car that doesn't smell like burning oil when I stop. Hopefully I can find a way to pull the crushed passenger rocker in so the doors seal properly too - apparently one of the accidents the previous owner got in was on that side and the chassis was never fixed.
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Jan 23, 2015 16:08
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kastein posted:New front CV shafts, cam seals, door switches, and a few other odds and ends ordered for the forester, looks like I am doing the cam seals and timing belt on mine and two coworkers cars (with their assistance - they both want to learn how) sometime next week. I just picked up the horror freight dent repair kit which consists of a stud welder and slide hammer. I wanted it to massage the C pillar dent out on the race car. We can do it next time you are up here or borrow it once the race car is done.
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Jan 23, 2015 16:59
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That would be awesome as a last resort - I really want to avoid loving with the paint though. Hoping to find a way to sneak a backer bar into the rocker and hook onto it through trim clip holes or something like that. If not I'll take you up on that, and we just put the studs where the trim covers the marks and then blast it with rusto before putting them back on 
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Jan 23, 2015 17:23
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All the instrument cluster bulbs in the subaru (that weren't dead already...) died in the space of 50 miles last night so I went and threw new ones in it. Store only had 168s instead of 158s, oh well it is brighter now. Went yarding today and did pretty good. Got a trailer hitch for the subaru, plus a real intermittent wiper switch with a knob instead of just "too fast" and "really too fast" settings. Then went to the jeep section and found a '90 longbed MJ with a 4.0/auto. ... and a trailer hitch, good tail lights, and a 44 rear... So I grabbed the trailer hitch and the tail lights. Adiabatic, need any of this? iForge already has a spare set of lights and a hitch.Probably going back for the 44 on Tuesday, too. It should have 3.55s or deeper if the owner wasn't dumb, the ubolts are new and the springs aren't so I suspect it was swapped in and therefore gears are a mystery till I pop the cover. Looks like an MD/VA trip may be in order soon. I've got an MJ 44 I need to regear to 4.56 for a friend that currently has perfectly good 3.55s in it, so given that Adiabatic and iForge both are aiming for 3.55s and iForge has a 44 with nothing in it that needs a rebuild, if my friend is alright with it and the junkyard one has 3.55s I will be bringing both MJ 44s to the south, dropping one off, trading the other for an empty one, and regearing that. Seems like a waste to regear a perfectly good axle when this is possible.
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Jan 24, 2015 19:01
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If you get to the MD/VA area, First drink is on me.
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Jan 24, 2015 20:11
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Veeb0rg posted:If you get to the MD/VA area, First drink is on me. No, me 
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Jan 24, 2015 20:23
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kastein posted:gently caress the ford 4.0, if any 4.0 goes in this thing it will be a jeep 4.0. Oi! You need to say 'v6' when you say gently caress the ford 4.0. The ford I6 4.0 is awesome. Ages ago I was looking at mazda bravo/ford rangers and was hoping they had a mazda motor in them. Nope, ford ones so I stayed clear. Like southsidesaint said, a major WTF with a timing chain at the front for one cam, and on the rear for the other cam and other crap. I stuck with an older 2.6L 4cyl, though I wish I could have got a 2.5L TD instead.
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Jan 24, 2015 20:32
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First drink is obviously on me. Kastein buddy you are the best. You want my Dana 35? We can swap it on the lift while you're down here! Let me know if you need a spot to crash. I've got a guest bedroom that's been used more by internet folk than regular folk.
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Jan 24, 2015 22:52
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I'll have to try and plan this out then... not sure exactly when, or how, or if, but it sounds like a good trip. The d35 is probably something you should sell on craigslist to someone who doesn't know they are garbage, or is desperate for a stock replacement. The only reason I own three d35s is because I'm too lazy to put them in the truck to bring to the scrapyard, TBH. And I didn't even know Ford had a 4.0 inline 6, only knew about their 4.9/300. Will have to read up on that one.
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Jan 24, 2015 23:20
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Ford's 4L (240ci) was basically a 300 with a shorter stroke. You don't really hear much about them. 300 is the money motor.
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Jan 24, 2015 23:36
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kastein posted:And I didn't even know Ford had a 4.0 inline 6, only knew about their 4.9/300. Will have to read up on that one. There's also the Ford's 4.0 I6 in AU. KingPave fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jan 25, 2015 |
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Jan 25, 2015 00:48
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No idea which it is exactly, but I've always heard the Ford L6 that's in like their 84 F150s is pretty bulletproof.
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Jan 25, 2015 02:17
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QuarkMartial posted:No idea which it is exactly, but I've always heard the Ford L6 that's in like their 84 F150s is pretty bulletproof. That would be the 300.
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Jan 25, 2015 02:19
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Well, I guess it's just as good I got a late start on this Ranger motor swap project. I'll have plenty of time to get the motor 100% freshened up (cam synchronizer, remove snapped off bolts in exhaust manifold mounting locations, new oil pan seal, already gave the rod bearings a shake and they're fine) before bed... and the drat truck was left with the hood latched, doors locked, and the keys are 300 miles away, so it's not like I could have actually gotten started on the swap anyways. Welp. It'll be buried under two feet of snow by Tuesday.
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Jan 25, 2015 23:34
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