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If it were me I would swap a modern drivetrain like others have said, along with a newer front axle that was the same width featuring disc brakes. I read somewhere here on ai that some GM dually rears can fit discs as well. After that its just finding a nv4500 to handle the weight and provide overdrive, then paint a mural on the side featuring the truck perhaps filming the living desert and you're done! Also do not downgrade to jeep parts. Big trucks need big truck parts! Also keep the inside roof like that if possible. It looks cool.
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Sep 18, 2014 06:05
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Did you ever get the wheelbase measurements? Standard R120 wheelbase should be 115 inches, if it's the LWB version than it should be 127. If it's the SWB then something like this might be a quick way to get rolling.
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Sep 18, 2014 16:51
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trouser chili posted:Did you ever get the wheelbase measurements? Standard R120 wheelbase should be 115 inches, if it's the LWB version than it should be 127. I haven't yet - this weekend we moved it into place and then my Jeep blew it's radiator. I've been working on the Jeep for the last few days trying to figure out why it wouldn't start. The positive terminal got all cruddy with coolant and wasn't sending enough power to the starter. Of course that was the last thing I checked after testing the starter, battery, and replacing the negative cables. Are you recommending I slam this thing onto an SSR frame, or just harvest a rolling chassis for parts? The SSR is basically a light truck sportscar isn't it?
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Sep 18, 2014 17:02
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Yeah they're not exactly the same thing, but the SSR was truckish enough, the frame looks like it might work, the wheelbases are within an inch of each other (if your R-series is a SWB) and most importantly the GVWR of the SSR is within the range of the R120-series pickups from IH. (R120 is 5400lbs, R121 is 5900lbs, R122 is 6500lbs, SSR is 6050lbs). And the best part is you might just make an SSR "cool". Big unknowns at this point are locations of body mounts on the R-series and the widths of the frame rails from each other on both....oh and that wheelbase thing.
trouser chili fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 17:22
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SSR is pretty closely related to the Trailblazer, and while it's theoretically below a half ton truck, Trailblazers (especially the LWB variant) are so loving heavy that they might as well be half tons.
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Sep 19, 2014 03:14
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I haven't been able to get anything done on the truck lately, but we plan on getting to it soon. I'm going to take all the preliminary frame, axle, wheelbase, etc. measurements so I'll have a better idea of what I'm working with. I've been working on the Jeep lately - I ripped out the passenger seat and fixed the fold-forward release cable with a new bicycle shifter cable and clamp-nut. I also wired up an LED auxiliary light on the rear bumper, that should help with setting up camp at night 
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Oct 16, 2014 20:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:SSR is pretty closely related to the Trailblazer, and while it's theoretically below a half ton truck, Trailblazers (especially the LWB variant) are so loving heavy that they might as well be half tons. About 100 pounds lighter than a single cab V6 6.5' bed F150 (~4500). If it's a crew cab you're looking north of 5100 pounds for the F150. This is a poo poo post.
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Oct 16, 2014 22:58
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Well I broke the rear axle in my jeep a while back so this project is on hold YET AGAIN. Seems like I can't set aside $200 without something breaking. Anywho - there are a lot of sweet 90s duallies on CL right now for what I want to pay (under $2,000). I haven't measured anything yet, so the donor purchase is still a ways off, but I'm having fun looking at 90s trucks that all seem to be a mile long. 454s seem pretty common in these things, and I feel like there's plenty of space for it. I promise that this thread will have stuff to look at some day. Hopefully in the next month or two 
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Dec 19, 2014 01:28
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trouser chili posted:Did you ever get the wheelbase measurements? Standard R120 wheelbase should be 115 inches, if it's the LWB version than it should be 127. The trucks wheel base is right around 128". Rear axle is around 82" from outside tread to outside tread, which is probably the wrong way to measure. Front axle is around 70". Now I have some research to do. Does anyone have any hot links for wheelbase databases? Would a Suburban be a decent donor for a frame swap like this? They are cheap as poo poo and the wheel base is only 3" off. Just going off of specs from a '99 GMC, curb weight is 4800 lbs and gross is 6800. I don't know how the heck to weigh my truck though, and going from original specifications wouldn't mean much with all this extra metal and wood that's been added. Suburbans come with a big v8, 14-bolt rear and front IFS that should make this thing ride pretty nice. No dually in the rear, but I believe the 14 bolts are available as DRWs. Dually might not even be needed but it would look better I'm sure. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Dec 29, 2014 |
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Dec 29, 2014 03:50
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We went through the stuff in the back of the truck today - found a brand new rubber seal for a front door, also a couple of wiper blades. That'll save the budget!! There was a ton of cool stuff in the boxes, most of it from the engine. There are 4 old holley carbs, the rocker arms, some fuel filters, etc. The carbs are pretty cool but are going to be a problem. I have four of them and my girlfriend is already talking about turning them into lamps or something. We may make a coffee table out of this thing - shine it up and clear coat it  There was an old hornet nest on the starter wire.  My goal this visit was to get an idea of the way the cab and camper mount to the chassis. The camper has a flat bottom - plywood on metal supports. The supports mostly look to be the same height, and there is no support where the frame humps up over the rear axle. It looks like the supports are just there to accommodate that hump. I don't see any reason this box wouldn't be easily adapted to any frame that is relatively similar. It would just take some welded on spacers to add height if needed. I'm going to start taking the engine bay apart next visit, and probably cut off the exhaust to get better access to the frame. I'm not gonna lie, This whole grinding/cutting/taking stuff apart thing is awesome fun. My girlfriend wanted to get started on the grinding. We tried a few different wheels on the angle grinder. The synthetic abrasive disk worked pretty fast, but got the metal shiny, which I think means I'm taking off more than I need to. I just want to remove the paint, so I think we're going to end up using the thin wire cup wheels on the 4.5" grinder. Or maybe I'd be able to rig a cheap sandblaster somehow. I feel like doing the whole thing with a grinder will get old fast, but will give a better result, as we'll be able to be more precise. In this photo the middle is the part that was done with the synthetic disk - too much metal lost I think. I spent a little time bending the gutters straight. it looks like this thing has had a few love taps here and there. Drunk fun hopefully!  This is after maybe 5 minutes of exploratory grinding - the wire wheels blast the paint chips off into outer space!  Height comparison - I'm 6"1". The roof is going to be awesome fun. luckily we have knee-pads  
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jan 26, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 18:03
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a brass wheel would probably be a little more gentle on the metal. sandblasting would warp metal that thin, soda or glass beads might work. you need a pretty beefy compressor to do an area that large in less than a week though. Have you tried aircraft remover? should be a matter of spraying it on, waiting a bit, and scraping the paint off with a scraper.
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Jan 26, 2015 18:14
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Powershift posted:a brass wheel would probably be a little more gentle on the metal. I'll pick up some brass wheels, thanks! I'll also look into the paint removers, but It's kind of fun to grind it, honestly. We only got maybe 6 square feet done in a couple hours but we were kind of getting used to the project. It'll be faster going the next time, though I'm sure we WILL get tired of it. Maybe we'll just use the remover 
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Jan 26, 2015 18:20
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Yeah, it is strangely satisfying. I recently cleaned up a bunch of fittings and tools that sat with road salt on them with a brass wheel.   It's almost like pressure washer porn. An 8 inch brass wheel on a 7" buffer should almost be like running over it with an eraser. It's somewhat of a redneck solution because they're not designed to go together so there are no guards, and at 3500 RPM it would be really good at removing a lot of skin too. Don't hack one onto a grinder though, they're usually only good for 3-4000 RPM, and most grinders run at 8-10k Powershift fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Jan 26, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 18:32
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Brass wheel or paint stripper. You want something else to go on that bare metal now before it starts rusting.
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Jan 26, 2015 18:35
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Slow is Fast posted:Brass wheel or paint stripper. You want something else to go on that bare metal now before it starts rusting. We cleaned up the section and then primed it with rustoleum rusty metal primer. The color almost matched the truck at sundown, haven't seen it in the light yet It's supposed to rain this week so I made sure to cover up the bare metal. It sure wasn't pretty though - pizza delivery guy showed up right when it was time to prime so it's a little drippy.
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Jan 26, 2015 19:04
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Don't turn those carbs into lamps! My Father-in-law has two ancient IH dump trucks he uses on his dairy farm. a 47 and a 52. I'll send some feelers out, but I might buy all your spare parts if you're moving away from IH.
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Jan 26, 2015 19:05
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Shampoo posted:Don't turn those carbs into lamps! My Father-in-law has two ancient IH dump trucks he uses on his dairy farm. a 47 and a 52. I'll send some feelers out, but I might buy all your spare parts if you're moving away from IH. That's a sweet truck! I'm all for passing the parts on to someone that will use them - send me a PM and I'll let you know what I have. Aside from the long block, that's staying in the family I think.
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Jan 26, 2015 19:09
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Powershift posted:Have you tried aircraft remover? should be a matter of spraying it on, waiting a bit, and scraping the paint off with a scraper. I tried this on some 60's paint and it just laughed at my stripper. loving paint was made of more toxic chemicals than the stripper and all I got was a surface that looked like someone had licked the candy coating off my motorcycle gas tank.
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Jan 27, 2015 08:03
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Powershift posted:a brass wheel would probably be a little more gentle on the metal. I do soda blasting and i have a massive john deere diesel hooked up to a rotary screw compressor i could do that whole thing in about 4 hours. it wouldn't hurt the metal at all. its not great on really rust stuff but it takes off paint and bondo just fine
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Jan 27, 2015 16:37
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iamthehans posted:I do soda blasting and i have a massive john deere diesel hooked up to a rotary screw compressor i could do that whole thing in about 4 hours. it wouldn't hurt the metal at all. its not great on really rust stuff but it takes off paint and bondo just fine Come on over  I think the grinding is going to be one of the easier parts of this job, so I'm going to enjoy it.
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Jan 27, 2015 17:11
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We went out this weekend and worked on the truck again. We decided to change plans again, no more frame swap. We're going to strip the driveline and swap all of that in from a donor vehicle, Motor, transmission and axles. Hoping to get a one-ton or 3/4 ton dually, that would cover all the bases. It looks like a lot of 80's Chevys have IFS, and more fords have beam axles. We want 2wd and a beam axle for simplicity. Something like a 454 or 460, carbureted, again for simplicity. It's also going to need the steering box swapped I think, this one is pretty gnarly, and I'm sure whatever is in the donor truck would be way better. Hopefully we can get disk brakes at least in the front. I'm going to start ripping everything out to get a good look at the engine bay - yesterday we only had a few hours so I pulled the radiator, batteries, carb, and the exhaust/intake manifolds. Next time I'll drop the rest of the exhaust and whatever else is convenient. I want to get it fully stripped so we can sand and paint the engine bay. My girlfriend has done more work on ripping the interior apart. Next time she's going to continue the paint and rust removal on the outside, we need to get it 100% waterproof ASAP to prevent any more damage. The hood comes off very easily, just one giant latch on either side. The radiator was bolted to a cross member at the bottom and two bolts on each side at the fenders. All of the fenders and fender flares look like they'll be super easy to remove and repair. The bad rust is all the way around on the rub rail, which also happens to cover the seam between the large top panel and the small lower panels and cabinets. I think that's going to be the hardest to repair. It's early in the project, but I'm pretty pumped up now. I'm also glad that we changed plans from frame swap to parts swapping. I feel like it's going to be a lot easier to break the project into pieces this way. I'm going to get better at taking more photos - all I got was the engine bay before and after the manifolds were removed. Next time more interesting photos.  Nice and spacious! 
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Feb 9, 2015 |
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Feb 9, 2015 06:03
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Any interest in selling engine parts off of it? A lot of them will fit my 56 and its good to have spares since IH parts are so rare.
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Feb 9, 2015 06:06
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Fart Pipe posted:Any interest in selling engine parts off of it? A lot of them will fit my 56 and its good to have spares since IH parts are so rare. Yeah I'd like to seem them go to a good home. The above goon Shampoo has an uncle with a couple trucks, but I'll post what I've got once it's all out and you guys can see if there's anything you'd need. There are at least 4 carburetors, rocker arms, push rods, etc. I'm pretty sure the pistons are seized, but I might be wrong. It's sat with no head for the last 10 years, and I think the hood was down but it didn't matter much.
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Feb 9, 2015 06:15
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Awesome! Yea I dont really need the internals as those are all new on mine just stuff like the oil filter, dizzy, starter and generator, intake/ex manifolds, carbs and whatever else. Im also really interested in the brake drums (if they are the same as mine) if you are switching out the fronts for discs and the rear end. They are NLA and Im interested in keeping my truck as original as possible if I can.
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Feb 9, 2015 06:38
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My budget for a donor vehicle is around $2,500. Less would be great. My donor vehicle needs to have: - Big rear end motor - Strong trans (auto preferred, for cruisin'...) - Dual rear wheels - Front disk brakes - Beam front axle (no IFS, that seems scary to try and replicate on this frame) Other considerations: - Not sure if I want to mess with 4x4 for my first giant project, 2wd should be ok (maybe a project for down the road - Most of the places we go in this truck will likely be paved or fire-road type terrain) - Carbureted vs. EFI - I want it super simple, not sure how simple EFI can be. I'd prefer to have minimal wiring. - Diesel vs. Gas - I think most any Cummins is outside of my budget, but the ford diesels look decent(?) and promise slightly better mileage than a gas 454/460. I also know zero about diesel. So far it looks like a Ford F350 from 79-96 fits most of the requirements, but I'm not sure when they went EFI. Chevys seem to be IFS for quite a while back. Any recommendations? Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Feb 12, 2015 |
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Feb 12, 2015 01:20
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If you can stretch your budget, there are trucks sold here that come out of BC coal mines and end up selling for around $4000 because the body and interior is trashed, but they're 2012-2014 F350/450s with the 6.2 or 6.8 V10 and about 60000kms. That gets you huge disk brakes all around, a 6 speed auto, ODBII for troubleshooting, and a relatively new drivetrain in age and mileage. It doesn't meet your minimal wiring requirement, but you could pretty much pull the entire loom out of the newer truck, and run it into the old one without really having to chop anything up. Beyond that, where are you located? I would start scouring auctions like ritchie brothers for something that fits the bill. As for the F350 thing, the gassers used the 460, and switched to EFI at some point in the late 80s/early 90s. I have a carb'd 460 in my lincoln, and even in that smooth, svelte package only gets 12.5mpg highway. Most autos you find will likely be the C6 as well, which is 3 speed with no overdrive.
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Feb 12, 2015 01:49
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I'd recommend a 4.0 swap, naturally. Plenty of spare parts around, you can build a 4.5 stroker easy, and best of all, some Internationals got AMC 258s from the factory. So it's not even truly "not in the family". If you want a walkthrough on EFI swapping something like this, I put together a "here's the braindump" version in SiF's thread a while ago and can explain it further as necessary. Not sure I'd recommend an NV4500, since they're pricey as hell, but you can put one behind any mopar smallblock, V10, a cummins 5.9, or any chevy sbc or vortec pattern block reasonably easily with factory parts. My gut reaction is drop an SM465 and a 4.0, 258, or any late gen AMC V8 in there in front of it, it'd be pretty easy for anything except the 4.0, which requires minor machining that's well documented, all you need is a specific bellhousing from a CJ that mates the Ford pattern transmission to the AMC pattern motor. I'm guessing that stock motor is the same one or related to the one in Billy Tully's truck, a silver/black diamond IH engine. They are roughly the same stock displacement as a 4.0. The lug pattern is probably the same 6-by-huge pattern shared by the old Internationals, Mooeycow's truck, and military M715 full size jeeps. It's rare these days on new vehicles but there is PLENTY of stuff out there for it in scrapyards. Nuclear option: 12 valve 5.9 and NV4500 swap it.
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Feb 12, 2015 02:16
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Yea the Silver Diamond was 220ci and the Black is 240 so a 4.0 would make a great replacement and have more power. I doubt that one is a Red Diamond but I still think that one was only around 150hp.
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Feb 12, 2015 02:27
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Don't bother with diesels in your price range. Prices in America are still messed up and it is a pain in the rear end having to drive by a station because they only sell gas. Also parts and mechanics are rarer/more expensive. I love diesels and if you were running a camper with full diesel heat hot water and cooking it would be the only way to go but in your situation it is just going to add complexity. Fuel injection can be way more simple and reliable and less stinky then a carb or vice-versa but in a camper that is going to be seeing big elevation changes I would stick to a simple EFI system from the late nineties. Bobbing and retucking a wiring harness is super easy too if you have the whole thing in one piece and keep good documentation. Really the worst part about an EFI swap is often the fuel tank but I'm sure yours needs replacing anyhow and there is probably lots of room back there. Also any carb engine you find is over 25 years old, and since it is going in an exempt vehicle you should be able to tear off any complicated emmisions bits or ancillaries you don't want. I'm going to vote again for the 4.0 good engine reliable and simple electrics and narrow with lots of room to work around. You don't need tons of power. the camper I use has a 60hp diesel and tops out at 55, 35 uphill but even that is only annoying for the first 500 miles until I'm out of my neck of the woods. Once I am in new territory I want to be plotzing along at 40 enjoying the scenery anyhow and interstates are pretty much the same wherever you go.
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Feb 12, 2015 04:49
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Ok, here's a new twist - what if I want to pull my jeep behind the camper? I know the 454/460 would have plenty of guts for that. I'm liking the idea of a simple EFI. I also like the idea of getting just ONE donor vehicle that covers as many bases as possible, and I don't think I'd be able to do that in my price range with anything 4.0. Also, anything that came with a 4.0 wouldn't have the heavy duty axles that I need, right? Wouldn't the 4.0 get pretty sad mpg hauling this fat-rear end around? My jeep weighs maybe 4500 lbs. and I get 15mpg. On the other hand, if I broke down I'd be towing an entire engine parts vehicle behind me. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Feb 12, 2015 |
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Feb 12, 2015 17:20
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Those axles are probably perfectly fine, I'd just leave em. Unless you have a compelling reason to swap to something else. The great thing about donor vehicles is if you are patient and also choose your options carefully, you can make them pay for themselves. For instance, I paid $900 for the donor for my 5.9L V8, NV4500 transmission, and NP241 transfer case for one of my MJ projects. Then I sold parts off the hulk and scrapped everything I didn't need and ended up with a $300 5.9, a $1k NV4500, a $100 NP241, and two $30 driveshafts for a whopping $270. If I'd been more careful about selling everything before scrapping the cab I could have gotten that down to zero, most likely, but I lost patience with it. So if you want to choose different donor vehicles, you can. You can also just get axles at the pick and pull instead of trying for a donor vehicle for all of it.
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Feb 12, 2015 17:49
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Don't the 2wd F350s use that terrible twin I-beam IFS system? Or did that not apply to the 1-ton models? The vans, even the E350s, are certainly all twin i-beam. If so, you still won't get the solid single-beam axle you're after. You may be stuck looking for F450 and larger models for a solid beam 2wd drivetrain. How much space you do have under the motor at ride height right now? The right kind of 4wd straight front axle might actually be a reasonably straightforward swap if there's room for the pumpkin. The issue is usually that a frame crossmember under/near the engine is trying to occupy the same space that the 4wd pumpkin and pinion need to move in. quote:I'm liking the idea of a simple EFI. I also like the idea of getting just ONE donor vehicle that covers as many bases as possible, and I don't think I'd be able to do that in my price range with anything 4.0. Also, anything that came with a 4.0 wouldn't have the heavy duty axles that I need, right? Wouldn't the 4.0 get pretty sad mpg hauling this fat-rear end around? My jeep weighs maybe 4500 lbs. and I get 15mpg. Some folks around here think everything looks like a nail when they have a 4.0 hammer, and it's a weird thing to watch. If you use a 4.0, I hope you have long vacations, because you're going to use them up crawling over every highway pass at 35mph trying to move that giant pig, especially with a jeep behind it. If you put a straight six in that thing, it should probably say Cummins on it. 1 ton trucks bloat up beyond 7-8k+ lbs pretty quickly, especially when you fill the back with camping gear, food, water, fuel etc. While a 258 might have been acceptable in the 50's, you'd probably hate life on modern highways. This truck is not a Cherokee, and shouldn't be built like one.
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Feb 12, 2015 17:49
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kastein posted:Those axles are probably perfectly fine, I'd just leave em. Unless you have a compelling reason to swap to something else. I guess my main reasoning was the age of the axles, which I assume would make it hard to find parts. Also split rims, and not being able to find any normal wheels that fit the bolt pattern. It sure would be easier to keep it though. I'll take a better look at the axle next time I'm out, I'll see if I can identify the exact model which should tell me more. If this axle would work, maybe just a set of 6 custom drilled wheels would fit the bill. Another thing that scares me about these axles is the steering in the front - it looks like it uses parts that are no longer available. I suppose it wouldn't be hard to fit something else in if that was the case. I think it'll need a new steering box, judging by the inch think layer of grime on this one. kastein posted:The great thing about donor vehicles is if you are patient and also choose your options carefully, you can make them pay for themselves. For instance, I paid $900 for the donor for my 5.9L V8, NV4500 transmission, and NP241 transfer case for one of my MJ projects. Then I sold parts off the hulk and scrapped everything I didn't need and ended up with a $300 5.9, a $1k NV4500, a $100 NP241, and two $30 driveshafts for a whopping $270. If I'd been more careful about selling everything before scrapping the cab I could have gotten that down to zero, most likely, but I lost patience with it.
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Feb 12, 2015 17:58
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murphle posted:Don't the 2wd F350s use that terrible twin I-beam IFS system? Or did that not apply to the 1-ton models? The vans, even the E350s, are certainly all twin i-beam. If so, you still won't get the solid single-beam axle you're after. You may be stuck looking for F450 and larger models for a solid beam 2wd drivetrain. From my research, all F350s from 79-96 had solid axles. The F250s got the twin traction beams. e: nope murphle posted:How much space you do have under the motor at ride height right now? The right kind of 4wd straight front axle might actually be a reasonably straightforward swap if there's room for the pumpkin. The issue is usually that a frame crossmember under/near the engine is trying to occupy the same space that the 4wd pumpkin and pinion need to move in. The oil pan on the straight six sits pretty low. I'm thinking 2wd is going to just make everything easier. I know this project is going to be pretty trying at times, and I'm happy to take a little of the work out when it's something that I don't think I need like 4wd. 4x4 adds way more parts to break too 
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Apr 28, 2015 |
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Feb 12, 2015 18:08
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What general region are you in? The spring ritchie brothers sales are always the biggest. A Carb'd 454 or 460 towing a 4500lb jeep would never see double digit fuel economy. modern fuel injection with the ability to read codes would be far easier to live with in my opinion. Anything older is likely going to require at least a partial rebuild, and come bolted to a transmission that requires the same. I bought a 99 F250 super duty with the 7.3 powerstroke with 190k kms(under110kish miles) for $750 at ritchie bros. it's a kickass little beater. I originally bought it intending to part it out for cores, but it just runs so well, i'm constantly looking for a project to build around the engine and possibly frame. Just to give you some ideas. https://www.rbauction.com/1995-CHEVROLET-3500-Extended-Cab-4x4?invId=4395198&id=ci&auction=ORLANDO-FL-2015101 Pros: decent towing mileage, good tires(that's a grand right there) cons: good body so might be out of budget, 6.5s like to crack in half once in a while https://www.rbauction.com/1998-DODGE-3500-4x4-Dually?invId=4425584&id=ci&auction=ORLANDO-FL-2015101 Pros: undesireable regular cab might make it cheaper, 8th number in the vin is a 5 meaning heavy duty drivetrain cons: dodge sucks at transmissions, again good body so might be out of budget murphle posted:Don't the 2wd F350s use that terrible twin I-beam IFS system? Or did that not apply to the 1-ton models? The vans, even the E350s, are certainly all twin i-beam. If so, you still won't get the solid single-beam axle you're after. You may be stuck looking for F450 and larger models for a solid beam 2wd drivetrain. Yes, but there was an option for solid beam on the duallies, and all F450+ are solid beam. twin i-beam is not too terrible, but the toe changes with suspension travel, so it eats tires, one at a time.
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Feb 12, 2015 18:29
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Powershift posted:What general region are you in? I'm in San Diego - Thanks for the idea, I pass by a Ritchie Bros auction place near March air force base every time I drive North a couple hours.
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Feb 12, 2015 18:44
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Yeah, there's an auction in tipton tomorrow, probably a little too late to do any real research, and i don't see any real candidates either way. This might be the right price, but way too heavy for what you're doing. https://www.rbauction.com/1989-INTERNATIONAL-1954-SA?invId=4415942&id=ci&auction=TIPTON-CA-2015102 It sucks that this is dealers/dismantlers only, because it's got the axles and suspension you want, and will probably go for the value of the cores making it a $0 truck. https://www.rbauction.com/2008-FORD-F450-XL-Super-Duty-Cab-Chassis?invId=4425977&id=ci&auction=TIPTON-CA-2015102 This thing has a banged up body, thrashed interior and torque monster 8.1(496)https://www.rbauction.com/2001-GMC-3500-Sierra-Dually?invId=4415759&id=ci&auction=TIPTON-CA-2015102 At the very least, you'll get an idea of what this stuff is worth.
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Feb 12, 2015 18:59
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murphle posted:Don't the 2wd F350s use that terrible twin I-beam IFS system? Or did that not apply to the 1-ton models? The vans, even the E350s, are certainly all twin i-beam. If so, you still won't get the solid single-beam axle you're after. You may be stuck looking for F450 and larger models for a solid beam 2wd drivetrain. My 04 Superduty E series under my RV is still IFS.
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Feb 12, 2015 19:14
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murphle posted:Don't the 2wd F350s use that terrible twin I-beam IFS system? Or did that not apply to the 1-ton models? The vans, even the E350s, are certainly all twin i-beam. If so, you still won't get the solid single-beam axle you're after. You may be stuck looking for F450 and larger models for a solid beam 2wd drivetrain. ehhh, the stock engine made like 104hp. 190 is a HUGE increase over stock, he's familiar with working on them, they're sorta kinda "in the family", it'd look right under the hood with an inline 6. I completely agree they are not brilliant power wise and it may seem like my answer to everything, though I'm actually planning on taking more 4.0s out of my jeeps than I am putting in. If he's gonna go with anything other than that, I'd say go for the standard LS/LT/LM7/LQ4 or 9 swap, they're cheap, powerful, easy to build, super easy to tune, tons of documentation on how to swap them into literally anything and prices on NV4500s for them are more reasonable than Mopar applications since the donor vehicle fan club doesn''t have desperate chrysler automatic victims looking to swap for anything else. And if you don't feel like paying NV4500 money, you can practically (literally in some cases) get an SM420 or SM465 for a case of beer and a good joke, and those drat near bolt right on too. In fact they do, you just don't install one bolt. There's also some changeups on crank flange height/bolt pattern/pilot bearing diameter I believe, but they're well documented on every "swap a vortec" forum on the internet because it's done so much... e: SM420 is factory rated at only 281 foot pounds input, that's less than an AX15 and I'm very surprised. Novak thinks very highly of them so I suspect experience says they will handle a lot more than that. SM465 people tend to break the cheesy factory aluminum bellhousing, twist the old 10 spline coarse output shafts (swap to a 32 spline and forget about it) and sometimes break aluminum tailhousings. Everything else is pretty bulletproof. Literally the only reason I seriously suggested a 4.0 is because he said earlier in the thread it won't be going all that fast. Would have gone right to the usual Vortec recommendation otherwise. Astonishing Wang posted:The oil pan on the straight six sits pretty low. I'm thinking 2wd is going to just make everything easier. I know this project is going to be pretty trying at times, and I'm happy to take a little of the work out when it's something that I don't think I need like 4wd. 4x4 adds way more parts to break too 2WD probably will make things way easier, but fortunately you can have it both ways, do the swap one of two ways: RWD transmission, plan on using an old style divorce mount transfer case (NP205 would be a good choice) when you change your mind. Very much "in style" method of 4x4 construction when your truck was built. 4x4 transmission, stick a transfer case in along with it, just don't do anything with the front output yoke. Bonus: now you have a super low granny gear for easing through washed out areas of back roads, ambling around campsites till you get it exactly where you want it, etc. Great if you get stuck in traffic on the way somewhere, too, just put it in low range first gear and idle along. Either way you can make the decision to go 4x4 later with little downside. For donor beams I would look under RWD F350s and F450s in the yards. No one ever wants the dead front beam out of them and they use modern F-series steering and brake parts. However, I'm not sure if they would clear the oil pan - a lot of old style kingpin dead front beams drop down in the middle. If so, call up your local truck/drivetrain rebuild shop (the guys that service MDTs, HDTs, etc) and ask if they can handle a kingpin job on your truck. A lot of the time this requires pressing in new bushings anyways rather than the usual garage/driveway weekend balljoint or kingpin replacement project. For rear axles, assuming you aren't rock crawling in this thing (a fair assumption I think) you can use basically any one ton rearend of the right width if you want to ditch the 6 lug and split rims in combination with a new front beam. Good candidates would be chevy 14 bolt (there are some lego games to play with these to get various widths - so find yours out and read the 14 bolt bible), dana 60s, 70s, and 80s out of Chevy, Ford, and Dodge fullsizes (the Ford E350 one is my personal favorite - it's a smooth bottom D60-1SU housing, but has 3.5" dana 70 axle tubes and spindle bearings for weight capacity and comes factory with disc brakes!) or even a sterling 10.25/10.5 out of a Ford. Sterlings aren't very well loved in the rock crawling community since they are ginormous and ruin ground clearance but you can get everything important aftermarket, so if you can't find one of the more desirable axles with the right ratio and width, don't be afraid of them. kastein fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Feb 13, 2015 12:52
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kastein posted:2WD probably will make things way easier, but fortunately you can have it both ways, do the swap one of two ways: This is an awesome realization - I love the idea of still having a low gear, as I hear that a 2wd dually can get stuck on wet grass We aren't ready to buy quite yet, as we want to do a lot more dis-assembly, but I've been keeping an eye on CL. Here's one that looks pretty good to me, aside from no DRW: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/4886519923.html 
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Feb 13, 2015 18:37
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