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Mr. Despair posted:To be fair that's chump change for a physics/astronomy experiment. An example: https://www.darkenergysurvey.org/DECam/DECam_add_tech.shtml Custom built 570 megapixel camera.. 62 individual sensors. Each sensor ran about $50k each. They produce enough data it takes 18 hours at 37MB/s to transfer a night of observations.
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 16:56 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 04:12 |
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You would not believe how fast you can pump out 20 or 30k dollars worth of high purity gas into the atmosphere with the right equipment. A good germanium crystal for a detector can be worth 100k pretty easily too. This is why it's so easy to justify things like 400 dollar webcams
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 17:50 |
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http://nofilmschool.com/2015/03/canon-price-cost-drop-deal-5d-mark-iii-6d-7d-mark-ii
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# ? Mar 1, 2015 20:15 |
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So uh is $200 for a used Tamron 17-50 F2.8 XR Di II non-VC and a 70-300 F4-5.6 good? Because it sounds like thats really loving good, considering the best price for a used 17-50 is around $250 here. I could probably sell the 70-300 for that much.
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# ? Mar 2, 2015 01:54 |
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Yeah that's a real good deal. Not sure what the 70-300 runs but that's cheap for the 17-50.
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# ? Mar 2, 2015 02:23 |
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Organised to pick it up tonight, so if theres any weirdness I just wont buy it. Kosher to take my body along and do a few test shots? after reading up on the 70-300 I might keep it for the macro function.
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# ? Mar 2, 2015 02:36 |
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Yeah always bring your body for testing. For stuff like that (i.e. things that can be easily transported) best to meet at starbucks or whatever.
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# ? Mar 2, 2015 02:50 |
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Well I forgot my body (550D) as I was going go-karting with the guys from work and was in a rush out the door, but they both work fine and both in great condition. Thankfully I was karting right around the corner from where she lived so it was an easy transaction. Looking forward to putting some proper shots on it now
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# ? Mar 2, 2015 23:17 |
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I ended up selling my 40 2.8 pancake (which I haven't used all that much since I bought it) on Craigslist and ordering the 24 2.8 pancake with the money. I've really wanted a good 35 prime for a long time. I had the old 35/2 but I didn't really like it at all so I ended up selling that one. This one's supposed to be between 35 and 40 mm with the crop factor, so that's rad. I'll let y'all know how it performs after I get it. Anyone here have experience with it? I know at least one of you does because I've had it in my Amazon wish list for a while and I don't think I would've put it in there if you guys hadn't pimped it in here.
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# ? Mar 3, 2015 03:17 |
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I don't own one yet but I love the 40 and having played with the 24 in a store, it's the 40...but wider. Once I get more spending cash I'll buy one and just have both because they're so cheap and good it's crazy not to. But yeah, the 24 viewing angle on a crop is definitely more normal and wider angle.
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# ? Mar 5, 2015 00:44 |
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harperdc posted:I don't own one yet but I love the 40 and having played with the 24 in a store, it's the 40...but wider. Once I get more spending cash I'll buy one and just have both because they're so cheap and good it's crazy not to. But yeah, the 24 viewing angle on a crop is definitely more normal and wider angle.
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# ? Mar 5, 2015 01:20 |
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So, if I'm looking to spend something around $1200 on a good zoom portrait lens, would people suggest the Cannon 70-200 f/4 IS or an off-brand f/2.8? I'm probably going to be using a couple off camera speedlight flashes for most of this, particularly the indoor stuff.
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# ? Mar 5, 2015 20:40 |
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An f/2.8 lens has the advantage of (potential) faster shutter speed and narrow depth of field for portraits. However, neither of these benefits really apply for studio portraits. An f4 lens would be fine for what you're describing.
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# ? Mar 5, 2015 20:49 |
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If it's just going to be used with off camera flash indoors, f4 is all you need. If you ever do shoot outdoors and/or with natural light, you will probably want the 2.8 to have better control over your backgrounds. Also are you sure that a 70-200 is the right choice? Normally it's too long for an indoor studio environment. If you don't have a ton of room, you'll more than likely keep it at 70mm and then it may still be a little too long.
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# ? Mar 5, 2015 20:55 |
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I've got a 50 prime I use on a crop body for shorter in stuff, I'd like a little more compression of facial features the 70-200 can give. It would probably be a mix of indoor and outdoor shooting. I'd go for an off-name 2.8, but I've heard the Sigma is soft at the end of its ranges, and the Tamron has focusing issues.
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# ? Mar 5, 2015 22:36 |
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The mark 1 version of the Canon 70-200/2.8 goes for a little over a thousand when it's used or refurbished, and it's still a great lens.
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# ? Mar 5, 2015 22:44 |
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Yeah or even new it's $150 more than the f/4, with the extra money IMO.
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# ? Mar 5, 2015 22:53 |
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BabelFish posted:I've got a 50 prime I use on a crop body for shorter in stuff, I'd like a little more compression of facial features the 70-200 can give. It would probably be a mix of indoor and outdoor shooting. Budget alternative: 85 mm 1.8?
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# ? Mar 6, 2015 01:21 |
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The little printed bit of metal that has the modes printed on it just fell off the mode dial for no apparent reason. Nice durability there, Canon.
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# ? Mar 6, 2015 01:43 |
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harperdc posted:Budget alternative: 85 mm 1.8? Now that would be tempting, leaves open the 135mm f2 later on.
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# ? Mar 6, 2015 02:13 |
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yes if the 135mm f2 or 85mm 1.2 makes you a portrait god then the 85mm 1.8 makes you a portrait king at the very least.
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# ? Mar 6, 2015 03:09 |
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I was thinking that earlier too. I think 85 is pretty good choice. The 1.8 isn't L but it might as well be as it's just as good.
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# ? Mar 6, 2015 03:15 |
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The 85 1.8 is an incredible value. Only thing to look out for is the CA if you shoot wide open and back-lit. I find it's very correctable in post, but you can avoid it altogether by stopping down a bit. I love the isolation it affords me.
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# ? Mar 6, 2015 03:38 |
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I just realized that you can configure the controls on the 5d3 to focus on your selected AF point with AF-ON, and focus using just the center point with AE-LOCK. I wish I'd known that a long time ago. I've wasted a lot of time switching AF modes for flying birds and perched birds.
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# ? Mar 7, 2015 20:43 |
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Bubbacub posted:I just realized that you can configure the controls on the 5d3 to focus on your selected AF point with AF-ON, and focus using just the center point with AE-LOCK. I wish I'd known that a long time ago. I've wasted a lot of time switching AF modes for flying birds and perched birds.
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# ? Mar 7, 2015 23:36 |
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and you can even register a different af point (I haven't figured out how though)
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# ? Mar 9, 2015 00:00 |
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blowfish posted:and you can even register a different af point (I haven't figured out how though) Sneeze Party fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Mar 9, 2015 |
# ? Mar 9, 2015 14:15 |
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God drat. If only Canon could make sensors as well as they make bodies and optics.
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# ? Mar 9, 2015 21:01 |
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Mightaswell posted:God drat. If only Canon could make sensors as well as they make bodies and optics. There is a Canon-to-Sony NEX adapter, you know. With working AF and IS. Adapt your mirrorless to a n0n0 posted:It's on this page. What's even cooler, in my opinion, is that you can set the two buttons to automatically switch between zone focus and spot focus, or between smaller-zone focus and whole-zone focus. Here is an explanation on how to set that up. Ok, I want to have a second MFn button on the 5d Mark III now Is there any way to put exposure lock and FEL on the same button press (do exposure lock if no flash attached, and do FEL if flash attached)? e: imagine you saw a 500/4 L IS (the mkI version) for sale that looks like it's been used alternatingly as a baseball bat and as a hammer, but it's (supposedly) fine on the inside... suck my woke dick fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Mar 10, 2015 |
# ? Mar 9, 2015 23:59 |
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blowfish posted:e: imagine you saw a 500/4 L IS (the mkI version) for sale that looks like it's been used alternatingly as a baseball bat and as a hammer, but it's (supposedly) fine on the inside... I just went through this with a 120-300 sport that was pretty scuffed up for 1200$ less than new..
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# ? Mar 10, 2015 03:13 |
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n0n0 posted:It's on this page. What's even cooler, in my opinion, is that you can set the two buttons to automatically switch between zone focus and spot focus, or between smaller-zone focus and whole-zone focus. Here is an explanation on how to set that up. Yeah, I now have a use for the DOF preview button to switch to small-spot focus. Have to say that's the least used button on my camera, but very conveniently placed.
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# ? Mar 10, 2015 03:41 |
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blowfish posted:There is a Canon-to-Sony NEX adapter, you know. With working AF and IS. That solves one problem but adds about 5 others.
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# ? Mar 10, 2015 21:02 |
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Which are?
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# ? Mar 10, 2015 21:16 |
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Combat Pretzel posted:Which are? Five figures. timrenzi574 posted:I just went through this with a 120-300 sport that was pretty scuffed up for 1200$ less than new.. Congrats, have fun with it. "Pretty scuffed up" doesn't even begin to describe the 500: it's covered in chips in the paint covering old chips in the original paint, and there's literally parts broken off the ridge the lens hood sits on. I guess I'll ask the seller if he minds me trying the thing out before paying
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# ? Mar 11, 2015 00:49 |
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Damnit forgot to bring my good camera strap to use with my rented 7DII. This focus system is CRAZY poo poo. WHAT ARE ALL THESE SETTINGS.
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# ? Mar 16, 2015 08:05 |
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Canon put together a 51 page guide to the AF options... http://downloads.canon.com/camera/brochures/EOS_7D_Mark_II_AF_guide_CUSA_9-2014.pdf
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# ? Mar 16, 2015 10:10 |
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Pablo Bluth posted:Canon put together a 51 page guide to the AF options... It definitely needs that many pages to explain everything. It's pretty intuitive for basic stuff though, and makes me think I could probably deal with the 70D not having a joystick/expansion mode changer, since I basically just left it on 8-point expansion the entire time and used the dials to move around rather than the stick. I don't understand how live view focus works on it at all--the default face detect mode is basically completely batshit insane without faces in frame and the other modes seem kind of wonky about how you move around/change the focus area size/zoom in. I don't really care though, since the viewfinder AF selection is excellent, and without the tilty screen I'm used to it's annoying to try and manually focus/compose when AF is being dumb. Took me forever to find the exposure indicator in the viewfinder though, since it has the same one as the 60D but only if you explicitly enable it and then only in auto exposure modes like Av or Tv. There's a second one on the side that always shows up but isn't labelled at all.
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# ? Mar 17, 2015 08:09 |
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I'm in the market for a new lens. My currently most-used lens is a very old Tamron 28-75 f2.8, which I've been very happy with, and I'll be selling soon... My main complaint about it is focusing speed, and I'd like to purchase a lens with better focusing speed. Currently, I'm trying to decide between a used Canon 28-70 f2.8L, or the newish Tamron 24-70 F2.8. The price difference, used, between the two lenses, is about $200 or $300 depending on the quality rating on KEH, with the Tamron being the more expensive option. Is there going to be a huge focusing speed difference between the Canon 28-70 and the Tamron 24-70? The extra 4mm doesn't make a huge difference to me. Sneeze Party fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Mar 17, 2015 |
# ? Mar 17, 2015 14:37 |
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annapacketstormaya posted:Took me forever to find the exposure indicator in the viewfinder though, since it has the same one as the 60D but only if you explicitly enable it and then only in auto exposure modes like Av or Tv. There's a second one on the side that always shows up but isn't labelled at all. It will also show the exposure along the bottom in manual with auto ISO enabled. This confused the crap out of me at first and I thought something might have been broken...
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# ? Mar 17, 2015 20:32 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 04:12 |
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n0n0 posted:I'm in the market for a new lens. My currently most-used lens is a very old Tamron 28-75 f2.8, which I've been very happy with, and I'll be selling soon... AF speed will be much improved with both choices but the Tamron is going to have better sharpness and contrast across the entire zoom range and less CA. Also image stabilization to boot.
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 15:01 |