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SouthsideSaint posted:Fixed that for you. haha- I didn't even notice that.
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May 12, 2015 12:02
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http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/4968368857.html How deep in would I get with one of these. I am not worried about rust (now that I can cut and weld) But I am wondering about other parts availability. But I would trash those seats and just do some Recaro's or something, and do a metal bumper of some kind. It would be a neat project, but that price is way to high for me, i wouldn't do much over 2000, maybe 2500 (I know its rarer model, but gently caress thats to high) Also could buy a DJ-5. Guys selling it for 200 bucks, I just need to check out the frame. He said the floor boards are shot, but thats what street signs are for.
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May 12, 2015 18:16
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BrokenKnucklez posted:http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/4968368857.html Given that it's A) driveable with apparently few issues B) the body is not hee-hawed or swiss cheese C) mostly complete I would say the price is merited. I would not expect a jeep like that for under $3k. It's not like it's an XJ. The seats would definitely have to go but I'd probably do something with a low back or bench seats to be more retro. DJ-5 Mail jeeps can be had for cheap but understand that most of them did not come in 4wd and so you would need to convert if you wanted it. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 20:36 on May 12, 2015 |
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May 12, 2015 20:33
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My 2004 Jeep Liberty's front passenger window decided to spontaneously drop into the door while I was on the highway. Googling around, looks like the regulator commonly fails so I'll need a new one which is easy enough. In the meantime, does anyone know if I can lock the window into the closed position while I wait for a new regulator? I'd rather not pull my door panel off only to find it's a lost cause.
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May 13, 2015 00:46
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DARPA posted:My 2004 Jeep Liberty's front passenger window decided to spontaneously drop into the door while I was on the highway. Googling around, looks like the regulator commonly fails so I'll need a new one which is easy enough.
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May 13, 2015 00:53
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Zip ties, a chunk of wood, or a nice sturdy clamp will also work if you're in the sort of climate that makes tape a bad, bad, terrible, bad idea.
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May 13, 2015 01:53
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Molten Llama posted:Zip ties, a chunk of wood, or a nice sturdy clamp will also work if you're in the sort of climate that makes tape a bad, bad, terrible, bad idea. I did this in both my Ranger and Crown Vic when it happened. Looks a lot better than tape and cleanup is easier when you get around to fixing it.
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May 13, 2015 02:04
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Y'all wish y'all  Each one of those folds out into a cardboard box the size of a pallet. The hackerspace I help run is moving at the end of this month, and by god, we're making it happen.
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May 13, 2015 03:07
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Safety Dance posted:Y'all wish y'all Buncha gaylords.
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May 13, 2015 03:24
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Yeah I can't use their trade name without giggling like a seven year old.
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May 13, 2015 03:29
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Safety Dance posted:Y'all wish y'all Dude, just rent a trailer.
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May 13, 2015 04:09
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Molten Llama posted:Zip ties, a chunk of wood, or a nice sturdy clamp will also work if you're in the sort of climate that makes tape a bad, bad, terrible, bad idea. Clamp goes inside the door, or is there a way to clamp the window from elsewhere? edit: Ended up using duct tape. It slowly failed while I was luckily stopped at the parts store so I was able to get out and lower the window slowly by hand. Found a socket wrench with a handle that happened to be the perfect size and I was able to wedge the window in a closed position using the wrench handle through a hole on the inside of the door panel. DARPA fucked around with this message at 15:44 on May 13, 2015 |
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May 13, 2015 04:10
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EightBit posted:Dude, just rent a trailer. I would have, but I left my trailer hitch at home. I had the D-ring installed instead.
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May 13, 2015 14:58
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Sandbagger SA posted:Given that it's I looked at the mail Jeep, the frame has about had it, plus the front axle isn't strait across so it will be a pig to convert to 4wd with out some ridiculous lift kit. Not that I am against lift, but its already a short wheelbase top heavy vehicle, I don't need to make it more unstable.
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May 13, 2015 15:52
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I looked at the mail Jeep, the frame has about had it, plus the front axle isn't strait across so it will be a pig to convert to 4wd with out some ridiculous lift kit. Not that I am against lift, but its already a short wheelbase top heavy vehicle, I don't need to make it more unstable. Flipped portal boxes, make everyone mad.
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May 13, 2015 16:23
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Safety Dance posted:Y'all wish y'all Oh neat - triwall containers. BrokenKnucklez posted:I looked at the mail Jeep, the frame has about had it, plus the front axle isn't strait across so it will be a pig to convert to 4wd with out some ridiculous lift kit. Not that I am against lift, but its already a short wheelbase top heavy vehicle, I don't need to make it more unstable. It's always super cool when someone does a 4x4 conversion to mail jeep then does a postal themed paint job and actually wheels it. Is it like a torsion axle? Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 17:56 on May 13, 2015 |
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May 13, 2015 17:51
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Neither mud nor rain nor granite nor the devils limestone stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds. Anything but clay...
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May 13, 2015 17:55
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Sandbagger SA posted:
Its just a beam axle, I am guessing its similar to what the XJ uses, but with leaf springs. It would be loving cool as poo poo to do, but with getting married at the end of the month, buying a house, etc, its just to much going on right now. If the frame was in better shape, I would jump on it and stash it at my folks house to do at a later date. The guy that owns it says he can't drive it in the winter because the compression is so low it wont even pull itself around. Edit: If i was to do the project, I'd just find an XJ, and use all that running gear, transfer case, transmission and engine. Though technically because it was based off the CJ5 I imagine you could stuff a ZJ V8 drive train in it as well. A medium powered V8 in a light weight body? 
BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 18:16 on May 13, 2015 |
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May 13, 2015 18:13
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So how hard is it to change the catalytic converter on a '06 TJ?
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May 14, 2015 16:18
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Not Jeep related but.. What would be the best way of removing exhaust manifold studs from the head? Was gonna try some PB Blaster first... Direct flame heating would be a no-no right? One stud already sheared when removing the manifold.
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May 14, 2015 16:58
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BrokenKnucklez posted:
HMM- Kastein and Slowisfast were making a CJ5 with 4.0L XJ running gear and that's already looking like it's going to be awesome. I wonder what the size difference is between the ZJ V8 and the older CJ5 V8.
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May 14, 2015 17:39
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AMC 304 is 29.25 Long x 29.50 High x 21.50 wide Dodge 318 29.50 Long x 31.00 high x 25.00 wide Those are fully dressed engines with air cleaner and every thing, so the width would be the biggest struggle, but I know the engine bay with the 304 was fairly roomy on both sides, it just might be dealing with the exhaust.
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May 14, 2015 17:48
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BrokenKnucklez posted:AMC 304 is 29.25 Long x 29.50 High x 21.50 wide Suspension lift + clearance the wheel wells with an hammer. Done.
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May 14, 2015 17:52
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Polish posted:Not Jeep related but.. Weld a nut onto the studs. In jeep stuff I am looking at getting rid of my accord for a ZJ. How much better of pickup does the 5.9 have versus the 4.0? I want a ZJ because I love the body style and driving my wife's WJ around has made me want a jeep. Its just the 4.slow is just that SLOW!!!
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May 15, 2015 02:40
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Don't bother swapping a 318 into anything IMO. If you're going to the effort, either go 5.9 (fits in exactly the same spot as a 5.2, in fact you can bolt a 5.9 in instead of a 5.2 without even tuning sometimes, if you don't mind the transmission melting) or go GM Vortec. The problem with 5.9s is that the autos that came behind them blow (not as much as the auto behind the 5.2, but still...) and the only manuals that were native and also handle the power of a 5.9 (the NV4500) are my junkyard cash cow, they are rare and desirable to Dodge fullsize owners and I pull 4 figures for straight-from-the-yard used ones on CL. I have a hard time justifying using one myself when I can make 900% profit in a week and split it with whoever helped me pull the tranny. I would go GM Vortec really. Dodge V8s are cool and all for a retromod type thing, but there aren't many power upgrades available, the ECUs are only tuned by a few companies that have no interest in publicizing their methods, and in general, GM Vortec beats them in every category. There are half a million SM420s and SM465s and Getrags out there that fit behind Vortecs, too, or if you want you can find a chevy spec NV4500 for under 500 bucks and use that too. Not like you'd really be doing anything sacrilegious either, if you even care about that, they used Buick Dauntless 225s and Iron Duke 150s in a whole lot of CJs and there's absolutely nothing wrong with putting a more modern GM V8 in. e: that's coming from someone who has a couple big dodge truck engines sitting around his property, and is intending to swap one of them into an MJ. If power is what you are after, go Vortec and don't look back. Specifically, L33 (aluminum truck 5.3), LM7 (iron truck 5.3), LQ4 (low spec luxobarge and truck 6.0) or LQ9 (high spec luxobarge and truck 6.0.) IIRC, the LQ9 makes 345hp right from the factory. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:02 on May 15, 2015 |
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May 15, 2015 03:59
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Also, if you ever think you want to go to stupid power levels, get a 6.0/6.2 LSx - they have a bigger bore and get to use much better factory heads than the narrow-bore 4.8/5.3/5.7L. On the other hand, if you just want to make 'enough' power, I'd bet a 4.8L would still do the trick just fine if the price is right.
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May 15, 2015 17:32
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kastein, tell me about gears. The 3.21s in my 12 JKU just aren't cutting it anymore and I want to step up to, at a minimum, 4.10s. I know all the parts I need to buy, but how is the actual install? I know the shims can be a bitch to get set straight, and I need a big rear end torque wrench to do the crush sleeve. Have you done gears? Do you recommend just taking it somewhere to do them? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have done all the work on my Jeep so far. Most places around here want anywhere from $500-1000 to do the install.
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May 15, 2015 18:25
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kastein posted:I would go GM Vortec really. Dodge V8s are cool and all for a retromod type thing, but there aren't many power upgrades available, the ECUs are only tuned by a few companies that have no interest in publicizing their methods, and in general, GM Vortec beats them in every category. There are half a million SM420s and SM465s and Getrags out there that fit behind Vortecs, too, or if you want you can find a chevy spec NV4500 for under 500 bucks and use that too. IOwnCalculus posted:Also, if you ever think you want to go to stupid power levels, get a 6.0/6.2 LSx - they have a bigger bore and get to use much better factory heads than the narrow-bore 4.8/5.3/5.7L. If I was to do it, id just plop a 350 in. The Mopar engine would be a cool restomod, but your completely right on the power/ecu thing, plus its not going to make much more power than a SBC 305. And i would just more than likely find a 4.8/5.3 motor, they are dime a dozen as they were stuffed into a million vans and pickups. 260-280 HP is more than adequate for a CJ. Hell, even a mildly warmed over basic 350 with cams and heads would be more than adequate in terms of power. But with a frame that has more holes than swiss cheese I am just going to wait to find another DJ thats in better shape. It can be a poo poo heap mechanically, I just want a solid foundation to work with.
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May 15, 2015 18:52
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mattfl posted:kastein, tell me about gears. The 3.21s in my 12 JKU just aren't cutting it anymore and I want to step up to, at a minimum, 4.10s. I know all the parts I need to buy, but how is the actual install? I know the shims can be a bitch to get set straight, and I need a big rear end torque wrench to do the crush sleeve. Have you done gears? Do you recommend just taking it somewhere to do them? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have done all the work on my Jeep so far. Most places around here want anywhere from $500-1000 to do the install. I've done them. If you have decent attention to detail and patience you will be fine. Stuff you need, in general - - gear marking paste (not lipstick, not whiteout, not axle grease... the yellow gear marking paste. accept no substitutes) - a decent dial indicator and mag base - a decent micrometer. Not a caliper, a micrometer. You need to measure thousandths and tenths here, repeatably. An HF 0-1" mic is fine with a little care. - torque wrench as stated - rubber mallets, deadblow mallet, shop press, bearing pullers capable of pulling pinion and carrier bearings - preferably a beer fridge and a small oven that you can set for about 170-200 degrees. - a pipe wrench big enough to grab the yoke, or a yoke holding tool - some way of measuring pinion bearing preload while it's turning. A beam-style (NOT clicky) inch-pound scale torque wrench is what most people use, I used a spool/pulley 8 inches in diameter drilled for the yoke strap bolt pattern and an 11lb digital hanging scale. - a seal puller - brass punches, drifts, hammers, etc - all parts. Get an extra pinion nut, an extra pinion seal, a master install kit from a reputable maker, maybe a packet or two of extra shims, a spare preload sleeve perhaps, and depending on the way the axle is designed, bearing cones and/or races to make setup bearings with. - a vise will help a lot when torquing ring gear bolts - in some cases, you will want a spare pinion oil retainer baffle and inner and outer pinion oil slingers. They sometimes get mangled during disassembly. I'm going to use a high pinion dana 30 as an example here. These use two sets of carrier preload shims that also adjust the ring gear position, an inner and outer pinion oil slinger, a pinion oil baffle, pinion depth shims behind the race inside the housing, and pinion preload shims on the pinion stem between it and the outer pinion bearing cone. So you would want to get two carrier bearing cones and an inner pinion bearing race to make setup bearings with. On the other hand, the chrysler 8.25 uses only one set of shims, the pinion depth shims, so you can get away with one setup bearing, the one behind the inner pinion bearing race, so you would get a single inner pinion race to make a setup bearing out of, the rest is all adjustments. The Ford 9 and Chevy 14 bolt are by far the easiest to set up. 9" is easier than the 14 only because the third member comes out so you can wrestle a 50lb lump onto the bench instead of a 400lb housing. They use side adjusters just like the 8.25, a preload spacer, and the pinion bearings are all installed in a bearing housing that bolts to the case, so the depth shims go between that and the case and you just unbolt it and swap in what you need as you go. Zero setup bearings needed. Setup bearings are basically either bearing cones you've honed out on the inside so they are a slip fit instead of a press fit, or bearing races you've done the same thing to the outside of for the same reason. They're great when you're swapping back and forth between shim stacks trying to dial the pattern in because it means you don't have to use a puller on your brand new bearings repeatedly and risk mangling the bearing cage each time. Makes the process faster and less tiring, too. Always measure pinion bearing preload without the pinion seal installed, then once you reach desired preload (and the pattern and backlash check out) pull the pinion yoke off, install the seal (and a new crush sleeve if it's that kind of axle) and then reinstall the yoke with a brand new pinion nut. The first one I did took me an entire day. It's a valuable skill and learning experience, but you will need patience and extreme attention to cleanliness and detail to get a good setup. You will be far better off if you take the axles out of the vehicle, too. I'm not overly familiar with the axles in a JKU but IIRC they are a super 44 rear and a super 30 or super 44 front. You'll be wanting at the very least a set of carrier setup bearing cones for each axle and an inner pinion bearing setup race for each axle. You can buy premade setup bearings or you can make your own. I'm sure there are other things you will want to set these up, I'm just not certain what they are as I've never done those axles. If it's a high pinion count on wanting a pinion oil retention baffle, if it's low pinion front you may want a crush sleeve spare for setup, etc. There are a LOT of good tricks in this thread. The OP knows his poo poo. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1256146-ring-pinion-set-up-jantz-engineering-advanced-masters-course.html
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May 15, 2015 20:52
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My drivers side window regulator just failed in my 2 door XJ, in a thunderstorm of course. Every bump makes the window fall down a bit so I gotta keep pushing it back up with my hand.  I hope to god its the little plastic part that you can get a replacement for, otherwise I am super boned. I love this thing but goddamn chrysler you are making it hard to justify keeping.
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May 17, 2015 13:56
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 Encountered this beautiful truck yesterday. The interior was stunning.
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May 17, 2015 15:35
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iForge posted:
The whole thing is at that point where tacky wraps around and meets retro awesomeness. Speaking of interiors: Kastein suggested Blue Coral to do my upholstery with so I gave my seats a soak with it last night before i turned in. I think the stale signature comanche odor has died down a bit.  The faux wood dash bezel fits a lot better now that the gauge pack isn't haphazardly shoved into place. I need to come up with a small vacuum to do the interior. I may just suck it up and go to a car wash.  I had Toyota problems but I fixed them with a zip tie.  Alternating brak-leen and blue coral got most of the black smudges off the door card. edit: not really worth its own post  Topping off the gear oil in my D30. drat do I enjoy having a cleanish garage to do this poo poo in.  box time. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 21:49 on May 17, 2015 |
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May 17, 2015 19:13
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Rolled 50,000 miles in the JK this week, so I figured that's a good round number to change the gear oil and install a pair of Lube Lockers. Nothing worse than the expected fuzz on the magnetic drain plug, no stripped/broken screws or teeth, and I managed to avoid rounding anything off. Getting a ratchet/torque wrench in position for the front D30 was a bit awkward, and completely impossible for the last screw to be tightened on the rear D44. No leaks or horrifying noises today, so I guess I didn't gently caress it up.
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May 17, 2015 21:04
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I just used blue coral today actually. poo poo works pretty well, remember that seat I bought for ten bucks out of the donor for your ax15 at Ingersons? The one that looked like someone scrubbed a 200k mile 4.0 block clean on it and then butchered a squirrel with a chainsaw on top? Yeah, it looks like this after two passes. Another pass or two and it should look new aside from the holes.
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May 18, 2015 02:07
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Okay so I've started beating that two-door 97 XJ back into shape. It definitely needs a new battery but I was kind of confused when I checked out the recommended size, my 99 and 01 use a group 34 battery while the 97 (which I thought was pretty much identical to the 99) uses a smaller group 58. Is there any reason I shouldn't swap the 34-sized battery tray from my parts XJ into the 97 and use a 34 like my other Jeeps? They're about the same price but the 34 has a much higher CCA rating and for some reason seems to be easier to find locally. Question two: anyone have any recommendations for troubleshooting an airbag light, also on the 97? I assumed it was the clockspring because that seems to be culprit in like 99% of cases, but I replaced that with the known good spare left over from converting my 99 to cruise control and the light persists. Checked fuses 26 and 27 in the cabin fuse box, they're good. When I start the vehicle the airbag light comes on for about seven seconds, blinks off for a second, then resumes. A post I found on another forum says that indicates the airbag control module has passed its self-diagnostic and the problem lies somewhere else in the circuit, that sound correct to anyone else? Are there airbag fault codes I can access somehow to make this less of a wild goose chase? I can't see anything via Torque and my bluetooth reader, but I know that they're limited in utility compared to a real shop scanner. edit: thought I should mention, I do seem to have a working databus and horn. Those things seem to come up a lot when diagnosing this problem. I eats my spinach fucked around with this message at 07:35 on May 18, 2015 |
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May 18, 2015 02:49
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Would you guys keep an eye out for a set of take off JK rubicon shocks forsale for me? No one seems to sell them or they want way to much for em locally.
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May 18, 2015 18:30
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Veeb0rg posted:Would you guys keep an eye out for a set of take off JK rubicon shocks forsale for me? No one seems to sell them or they want way to much for em locally. Where are you located? I am about to empty my storage unit and I am 95% sure there's a set in there with about 200 miles on them. You could have them for free but I'm worried they aren't even worth what they would cost to ship.
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May 18, 2015 23:43
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rally posted:Where are you located? I am about to empty my storage unit and I am 95% sure there's a set in there with about 200 miles on them. You could have them for free but I'm worried they aren't even worth what they would cost to ship. I'm in Maryland. shipping shouldn't be too bad. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 03:37 on May 19, 2015 |
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May 19, 2015 01:40
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Today I ripped apart the interior and dug up the wiring diagrams for the entire airbag system from battery to bags, and did a ringout/short check/voltage check on everything. I'm stumped right now, I guess I need to get in touch with someone that has a DRB reader? The wires have continuity from the module to the airbag connectors, there's no shorts or crossed wires I was able to find. I got 13.6 volts at the module connector on pins 26 and 27, both coming from the ignition switch with one being the power feed in the run position and the other being a combination start/run ignition switch feed. Wires seemed to be good from the airbag to the OBD-II port as well, maybe it's a bad module? Do airbags themselves ever really fail? edit: looked at the connector again, there's two pins populated with wires (11 and 12) that I can't find any wiring diagram for. double edit: found the FSM airbag connector pinout, according to that pins 11 and 12 are unpopulated regardless of option or trim level. wtf I eats my spinach fucked around with this message at 05:14 on May 19, 2015 |
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May 19, 2015 04:41
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Does anyone have any recommended reading on tuning the Carter BBD on the 4.2L YJ engines? Or two-barrel carbs in general? For a while it would start the moment I turned the ignition to Start but now its back to its old behavior of turning over forever unless I tap the gas a few times. And while I'm thrilled its starting and able to idle again, I'd like to get it running well enough I dont need to do that. And maybe get it to quit puking so much unburnt fuel out the exhaust.
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May 19, 2015 05:13
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