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Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme
Hi, AI. Please let me reintroduce myself and my car, a piss-yellow 1975 BMW 2002 that I've neglected for a few years.


~~ memories.jpg ~~


~~ more_recent.jpg ~~


~~ ;) ~~

I bought the car in spring 2008, when I was a senior in high school. This car is the 2nd BMW I've ever owned --I ended up flipping the first one (literally), an automatic e34 525i that I still miss from time to time. I swear to god I was going 20 MPH, I was just stupid and cheap on tires.


~~ EVIDENCE.JPG (sorry for the double exposure, film is cool though) ~~

Back in 2009-2010 I posted a short-lived thread chronicling my attempt to make the poor 2002 run better. As expected for a 35-year-old car, many parts were worn out and the PO deserves to burn in hell for all their transgressions :unsmigghh:.

During the course of that thread, scope creep kicked in hardcore and hasn't ceased. It began with a minor engine rebuild to cure leaky valve stem seals, some blow-by and a sputtering carb that made the car embarrassing to drive downhill and difficult to drive uphill.

That minor engine rebuild turned into an excuse to replace the carb with EFI, upgrade the brakes (3 times now), rebuild the suspension and more.

That's not to say everything worked out ok. Much of my work today shall be spent fixing the corners I cut and bad decisions my teenage and early-20s-self made. I'm ashamed, but mistakes are honorable if one can learn from them. I'm still paying down the (technical and labor) debt today from poor decisions in the past. I'm sure I'll be making more mistakes as the project progresses.

Nowadays full-time work consumes my waking hours but for my AI new year's resolution I've set aside time to resurrect my poor neglected car.

NEXT TIME: ENGINE TROUBLES FROM LONG AGO

~~ tap_water.jpg ~~

Hunter2 Thompson fucked around with this message at 11:19 on Feb 24, 2016

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Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme
Rather than strictly adhering to a linear timeline, I'm going to focus on one category of work at a time until I catch up with the present. Once all these loose threads have been joined over several posts things shall proceed linearly. This ought to make things easier to follow at first. Hopefully my automotive ADD won't be as obvious this way.



Let's start with disassembing the engine. First, some basic specifications and history according to Wikipedia:

Wikipedia page for the BMW M10 Engine posted:

The BMW M10 was a straight-4 SOHC piston engine produced from 1962 to 1988 with displacements ranging from 1499 cc to 1990 cc. The engine was a commercial success for the Bavarian carmaker, with over 3.5 million produced in almost three decades across many BMW models.

The engine was designed by engineer and race driver Baron Alex von Falkenhausen. In the late 1950s, he was asked to design a small-displacement (1.3 L) engine, but felt that this would be insufficient for the company's future needs. Therefore, he convinced BMW that the capacity should be 1.5 L instead and he designed a block that could be expanded to 2.0 L in the future.

That sneaky Baron! Also, this engine design was used with some changes for 26 years. It's legacy spanned the Neueu Klasse, the E21 and E30 in varying displacements. There was even a limited production of turbocharged BMW 2002s using this engine with mechanical fuel injection. That "legacy" seems impressive to a rube like me.

BMW M10 with Kugelfischer mechanical fuel injection, the 2002tii configuration


Stock-looking M10 with emissions exhaust manifold in some rando's dirty 2002. Note the classic huge circular air filter look.


But this engine's specs aren't particularly impressive for our modern times. It has an 8-valve SOHC head and spits out about 100 hp and 120 ft*lbs of torque on a good day when configured for the 2002.

Now my memory is generally hazy because this was seven years ago, but I distinctly remember finding BBs stuffed in vacuum lines, a disconnected vacuum advance, crudely-bypassed emissions controls, an unconnected valve cover breather (no PCV on this car!) dumping oil vapors and breathing in dust, and a mishmash accelerator linkage that didn't event let the carb butterflies go wide-open. I was probably lucky to arrive at a destination, let alone get 80 hp out of the engine in its state. Billowing clouds of blue smoke surged out the exhaust whenever I downshifted. I learned that this was probably caused by worn-out valve stem seals.

So, after securing my first off-campus housing during summer 2009 and with nothing but some high school auto shop and improvisational scooter restoration skills I set out to fix the value stem seals.

My 2002 shared the garage with an ominous old Chevrolet pickup that the owner inherited from their grandfather. Despite not running in years and the pooling fluids underneath (plausible deniability for my messes) they were too emotionally invested to sell it and not inclined enough to repair it.



I used Craftsman tools my aunt gave me for Christmas to take that dirty engine apart. Woah, are those Dreamcast controllers and NES games in that box? I can even see the corner of Jet Grind Radio! I forgot I used to have those. Also pictured is the front wheel of my Honda Supercub. Man, I used to be so cool back then, what happened to me?


... Back to the car. Let's get that valve cover off.

Pretty clean for 34 years! Perhaps somebody rebuilt it once.


And off with its head! Now let me point out a dumb newbie mistake I made here: I didn't separate the timing chain so I left the cam timing gear jammed in the chain. Stupid. May I also point out that the block and everything surrounding it is caked in petro-filth from persistent oil leaks. This was everywhere and would take months to scrape off.


Another stupid mistake that luckily (hopefully) didn't damage anything. Don't put cylinder heads on a flat surface! They need to be elevated so the valves don't touch the surface and get damaged.


Before cleaning and rebuilding.


A local machine shop cleaned and rebuilt the head for me. Since I was poor, I asked for the cheapest worthwhile rebuild. They cleaned the head, resurfaced it, and installed new valve stem seals and seats.



Given a chance to do it again now, I'd buy a performance camshaft too because they're easiest to install with the head off. The camshaft presses in from the firewall side of the head so unless you're willing to cut a hole in the firewall (and I'm not), you need to take the head off to replace the camshaft.

Also, because the upper timing cover bolts to the head it needs to have its lower mating surface (that touches the head gasket) machined with the head, otherwise it'll interfere with the lower cover.



The machine shop did a really pretty job of the machine work. I got to see the machinist's Czechoslovakian ČZ motorcycle collection every time I stopped by too. No photos of them, unfortunately.

The machinist convinced me to bring the block and flywheel in. Good thing too, because the cylinder bores were ovaled way out of spec. I got a nice clean block and a shiny flywheel back. For not much extra, I think the total bill was around $600 for machine work.





More engine porn:



Unfortunately for my wallet, that meant I also needed to buy new pistons. At least they're pretty.



During this time, I cleaned and painted the valve cover, oil pan and other parts that would probably look cooler as polished bare aluminum in hindsight.





Finally, a hint at what comes next. After suffering a worn out engine and a shoddy aftermarket carburetor installation for a year I was ready to move on from 1970s fuel technology... and straight into the realm of the mid-1980s. That intake manifold was pulled off a junkyard 1983/1984 E30 318i, representing the pinnacle of the M10 fueling technology. Also pictured was the DD at the time, a 1991 Corolla DX that I miss dearly.


COMING NEXT: ENGINE ASSEMBLY

Hunter2 Thompson fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Feb 26, 2016

Cached Money
Apr 11, 2010

Totally following this, love those little cars!

extreme_accordion
Apr 9, 2009
This just makes me so sad... I went to talk to someone who was taking care of gentlemans estate.
I enquired about the BMW 2002 that I had seen several times.
She corrected me saying, "No it's a 1973 BMW."
Who's on first ensued for a few seconds only to find out they sold it off the same day the advertised it.
Back tracked in Craigslist to find they let it go for under $1000.

extreme_accordion fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Feb 26, 2016

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
I'm glad you're posting about this fine ride again. :)

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme

extreme_accordion posted:

This just makes me so sad... I went to talk to someone who was taking care of gentlemans estate.
I enquired about the BMW 2002 that I had seen several times.
She corrected me saying, "No it's a 1973 BMW."
Who's on first ensued for a few seconds only to find out they sold it off the same day the advertised it.
Back tracked in Craigslist to find they let it go for under $1000.

Whoever bought that car got a serious deal. These things have gotten a lot more expensive since I bought mine. At least most parts are still affordable.

charliemonster42
Sep 14, 2005


extreme_accordion posted:

This just makes me so sad... I went to talk to someone who was taking care of gentlemans estate.
I enquired about the BMW 2002 that I had seen several times.
She corrected me saying, "No it's a 1973 BMW."
Who's on first ensued for a few seconds only to find out they sold it off the same day the advertised it.
Back tracked in Craigslist to find they let it go for under $1000.

gently caress that's brutal.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

meatpotato posted:

Whoever bought that car got a serious deal. These things have gotten a lot more expensive since I bought mine. At least most parts are still affordable.

I was talking to a coworker last night, and he mentioned the MPG he gets from his Prius again. I told him I was going to kick him in the balls if he mentioned his loving mileage or even uttered the word "Prius" again, and how much I can't stand the average :smuggo: Prius owner.

So he asked what makes seem to attract assholes. I immediately said BMW. He starts talking about his old 2002 tii.

That he bought for $500.. and sold for $300. And how much he's kicking himself for selling it now.. we both did a bit of a :sigh:. (he bought it in the mid 1990s, and sold it a couple of years later)

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme
Step with me from that last post in summer 2009, to January 2010 when I began my second year of college. My 2002 continued to occupy the same garage and I lived in the drafty and flood-prone attached bedroom likely converted from a large tool shed. Then and there I was living my dream.

However, in the months before that a wild restlessness overcame me. Living just 90 miles from where I grew up, my mind welled with angst-filled urges to GET OUT of California. Hell, I wanted to get off the North American continent.

Nineteen years old and determined to see more of the world (but a slacker in high school, unable to speak another language), I filled out a ream of paperwork and saved up some cash to spend my next year at school in New Zealand.

Why New Zealand? Honestly, I never had a reason. It just seemed like a good place to be.

With my application approved and classes starting in February, I hastily worked to get the 2002 drivable once again. I couldn't leave it in that garage and decided that rather than taking the saner option of using a AAA tow, I would drive it the 90 miles to my mom's house. Unfortunately, that also meant parking it outdoors on the street for a year, which still makes me sad. While parked, somebody backed into it and dented the trunk lip. In another instance, the BMW badges on the hood and trunk were stolen.

From the EXIF timestamps, I spent two days building the engine, 1 day freaking out and tearing it back down again, then another day building it back up, finally installing it at 1 AM.

This was the first and only time I've done something like this. It's kind of horrifying to look at these photos again, in hindsight. I'm leaving out the boring and cringe-worthy ones like where I put all my clean parts on a sheet of dirty cardboard. I hope I cleaned them again before I installed them. I hope this engine doesn't immediately blow up once I get it running again.

My guide to assembly were some crudely-scanned 1980s Roundel Magazine instructions. In hindsight I should have also consulted the factory service manual but I didn't really know what I was doing.

Here's a curated selection:

The oil pump has two different specified tolerances for wear, I'm using a feeler gauge set to measure both. The oil pump was well-within specs, thankfully.



The set of new crankshaft bearings get installed in the block.


Next, the crank was gingerly lowered in and I installed the crank bearing caps.


Next, the piston rings need to be fitted. From what I remember, you need to shove the top ring (the one that seals for compression) into the cylinder bore and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap. The rings come slightly oversized and must be filed down to spec. There's a special precision piston ring filing tool that I don't have, so I used a regular file. Kind of iffy, in hindsight, but I remember taking my time to get it right.




Now the block can be flipped right-side-up so the pistons can be installed. I used duct tape on the connecting rod bolts to protect the crankshaft from scratches during installation. I think most people use short lengths of tubing or fuel line. I didn't have any to spare.


A metal sleeve with an adjustable clamp compresses the piston's rings. With some light taps the piston slides into the bore. There is an art to this, I don't possess it.


Next, the bearing caps for the pistons must be installed. I should mention that I doused everything in assembly lube or new motor oil as I put this together.





I lost the metal locking strips for the oil pump gear bolts. I substituted blue thread locker, which isn't uncommon from reading the BMW2002FAQ, but doesn't inspire the same confidence at all.


My largest gently caress-up: the timing chain master link. The new timing chain used two small c-clips to lock the master link. One was not have been seated entirely and popped off during assembly, never to be found.


I spent hours tearing down the engine looking for it in the timing covers and oil pan but it never materialized. I can only hope the clip shot out of the engine, rather than in, while everything was still half-apart. If that's the case, I'm fortunate the clip didn't pop off when the engine was already in the car. I ended up reusing the original timing chain's master link clip.

Despite all that, around midnight I installed the clutch and transmission and used the hoist to lower it in single-handed. Note: install the transmission separately, it's much easier and you won't scratch up the firewall like I did. Also, use a load balancer, I didn't have one but I hear they make your life easier.



Then I fabricobbled some aluminum stock into an electric fan bracket to install a sweet Italian performance SPAL pusher fan in front of the radiator. God this thing is loud.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

meatpotato posted:

A metal sleeve with an adjustable clamp compresses the piston's rings. With some light taps the piston slides into the bore. There is an art to this, I don't possess it.


I used to think the same as you and then I found out that the 'art' just consists of getting a ring compressor that isn't the terrible useless kind you (and I, once) used. The kind that consist of a thick steel band clamped together by a plier-like tool are much, much better and don't completely wear out after one engine.

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme

Slavvy posted:

I used to think the same as you and then I found out that the 'art' just consists of getting a ring compressor that isn't the terrible useless kind you (and I, once) used. The kind that consist of a thick steel band clamped together by a plier-like tool are much, much better and don't completely wear out after one engine.

Well that explains it, it took about 10 minutes wrangling with that cheapo POWERBUILT ring compressor per piston.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Good to see another old BMW thread, 2002's are so fun to drive. I've been half-assed looking for a E30 M10 intake and parts to go fuel injected on my E21 but now I'm leaning towards a M42 swap instead but we'll see.

If you need any E21 parts I have basically everything but a shell sitting in the shed.

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme

NitroSpazzz posted:

Good to see another old BMW thread, 2002's are so fun to drive.

I just barely know this since my car's been on jack stands far longer than its wheels have touched the ground :/ ... I can't wait to drive it though.

Thank you for the offer, I don't think I have any crushing E21 desires at the moment, I've actually done all the common E21 upgrades on this car!

I think I might also do an M42 swap, if I needed to do this all over again (we'll see how my motor holds up). The M10 is nice and solid, but M42s are so cheap and an objectively better motor.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

meatpotato posted:

M42s are so cheap and an objectively better motor.

You shut your filthy mouth.

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme

Slavvy posted:

You shut your filthy mouth.

Are you a descendant of Herr Falkenhausen (the driver, not the war criminal)?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

The M10 was capable of making 1500hp with a few minor mods!

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Slavvy posted:

The M10 was capable of making 1500hp with a few minor mods!



Yup, looks pretty minor to me. The M12 is a loving monster. I'm tempted to toss a turbo on my M10 and just slowly crank up the boost to see what it can take.

extreme_accordion
Apr 9, 2009

Slavvy posted:

The M10 was capable of making 1500hp with a few minor mods!



What year is this and what did it power? It is amazing.
Carbon fiber intake from the turbo. Some sort of air cooled doohicky hanging in under the BOV.
Ceramic coated exhaust. Dry sump. Cam driven distributor. What looks like mechanical fuel injection.
And a transmission adapter plate.

PS these are mods any schmo can do in his basement or garage with a jigsaw.

CommieGIR
Aug 22, 2006

The blue glow is a feature, not a bug


Pillbug

Slavvy posted:

The M10 was capable of making 1500hp with a few minor mods!



Pretty sure that is actually a leaf blower in disguise.

Beautiful build, OP.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


extreme_accordion posted:

What year is this and what did it power? It is amazing.
Carbon fiber intake from the turbo. Some sort of air cooled doohicky hanging in under the BOV.
Ceramic coated exhaust. Dry sump. Cam driven distributor. What looks like mechanical fuel injection.
And a transmission adapter plate.

PS these are mods any schmo can do in his basement or garage with a jigsaw.

Wikipedia has the basics covered - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M12

Basically a M10 block with a dual overhead cam head then boosted to the moon. Max boost was 4 Bar or 58 psi :aaaaa:

Early 80's, powered Formula 2 and 1 as well as touring cars in various iterations with and without boost.


I was wrong on max boost...they went to 80 loving psi at 11,500rpm for the 1500hp figure

NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Mar 7, 2016

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme

Slavvy posted:

The M10 was capable of making 1500hp with a few minor mods!



NitroSpazzz posted:

Wikipedia has the basics covered - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M12

Basically a M10 block with a dual overhead cam head then boosted to the moon. Max boost was 4 Bar or 58 psi :aaaaa:

Early 80's, powered Formula 2 and 1 as well as touring cars in various iterations with and without boost.

According to *internet sources*, the M12/13 was the most powerful F1 engine ever. I did not know that, I don't really follow F1.

Now I feel sorry for doubting my little M10, that's a hell of a legacy (even if they only have a block in common).

glyph
Apr 6, 2006



I always liked this bit (and mention it often to students in the lab as a holistic thinking example):

from the link posted:

Instead of casting new blocks for their turbocharged F1 project, BMW only used old ones to that had done more than 100.000 kilometers. The idea was that all the stresses of the casting process would have been worn out. If an engine block would break, it would have done so already.

http://gtspirit.com/2014/05/31/the-most-powerful-f1-car-ever/

Similarly:

quote:

Back during World War II, the RAF lost a lot of planes to German anti-aircraft fire. So they decided to armor them up. But where to put the armor? The obvious answer was to look at planes that returned from missions, count up all the bullet holes in various places, and then put extra armor in the areas that attracted the most fire.

Obvious but wrong. As Hungarian-born mathematician Abraham Wald explained at the time, if a plane makes it back safely even though it has, say, a bunch of bullet holes in its wings, it means that bullet holes in the wings aren't very dangerous. What you really want to do is armor up the areas that, on average, don't have any bullet holes. Why? Because planes with bullet holes in those places never made it back. That's why you don't see any bullet holes there on the ones that do return.

http://www.motherjones.com/kevin-drum/2010/09/counterintuitive-world

glyph fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Mar 7, 2016

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

You can tell from the cool new project threads in AI that it's getting close to Spring time.

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme

meatpimp posted:

You can tell from the cool new project threads in AI that it's getting close to Spring time.

Thanks but it's not just that spring is coming around. I've been a lazy/overworked jerk for the last few years and don't have much of an excuse. The weather around here is never that nasty and I've had my car in a well-lit insulated garage the whole time. Shame on me. It's time to stop wasting such a neat car.

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme

glyph posted:

I always liked this bit (and mention it often to students in the lab as a holistic thinking example):
Instead of casting new blocks for their turbocharged F1 project, BMW only used old ones to that had done more than 100.000 kilometers. The idea was that all the stresses of the casting process would have been worn out. If an engine block would break, it would have done so already.

Somebody once told me that, but I wasn't sure if it was true. That's very cool

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme
Despite these being historical photographs at this point, I needed to publicly gloat about a junkyard find.

Back in '09, when you actually could find 2002s in a Pick-n-Pull, I found a gem of a car and removed the following:

2002s have this brass heater valve that's about $400 if it's not already NLA. My heater valve had been on its way out for a while (see photo of crud in the cooling system in the first post) and this one was in excellent shape. I paid about $5 for it, score!


A handbrake boot in good condition isn't exactly rare, but for a few bucks it's a great thing to get.


Finally, I snatched this rare pop-up sunroof wind deflector. These inexplicably sell for hundreds of dollars on the 2002faq, despite their simplicity. I don't really know why they're valuable, but I'm happy I've got one.
'

Edit: Some photos with the wind deflector installed. It folds down when the manual-crank sun roof is closed. Actually a bit nifty. It's missing some plastic sliders and I don't think anybody makes replacements. These could be a good candidate for 3d printing.


Hunter2 Thompson fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Mar 7, 2016

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme
First, I owe a big thank-you to everybody following this thread. Your comments keep me motivated, so keep them coming!

Sorry for the hiatus, work and a Maui vacation have taken priority recently. However, I have a photo-rich update.

Tonight's topic: Rehabilitating steering, suspension and brakes, while making mistakes along the way.

Pictured: Christmas car goodies and Devil's Milk in my high school bedroom. I had ...nerdy hobbies back then. That's a stack of 16 mm film reels next to boxes of RCA CEDs in the closet, and yes I had the equipment to play them. LaserDisc collection not pictured. gently caress you.


Suspension:
1) Take it out




No sweat!

2) Clean it up

The front suspension cleaned up easily, despite decades of oil leaks, but the rear had issues. Leaky differential seals combined with road dirt and exhaust heat sticks like wax.


I borrowed a neighbor's gas-powered pressure washer.


... The power washer didn't cut through the crud. I resorted to using a paint scraper and Citrisolv to degrease the rear subframe. I highly recommend Citrisolv, it's better than mineral spirits and low-voc. I learned about it from a crusty old machinist with a rusty Porsche 356 who told me that phone companies developed it back when cables were packed with grease to keep water out. Technicians kept passing out in manholes from petroleum solvent fumes when they degreased cables, so they formulated a healthier alternative. Sounds plausible.

3) Replace bushings

Nearly every bushing I touched, I replaced. This is a closeup of the idler arm bushing in the front subframe.




These three super-hard bolts on the bottom of the struts required lock-wire, even from the factory. The bolts are also notorious for snapping off, but I soaked them in PB Blaster and got lucky. I didn't want to risk my wheels coming off, so I followed suit.


Ball joints are riveted in from the factory. This means these are original --they were in really good shape for being ~35 years old. I replaced them regardless, but hosed up drilling out rivets and had to buy new control arms :(. I took this as an opportunity to buy some refurbished stitch-welded and powdercoated control arms for much cheaper than new :).


Front all together, finally. I threw in a new steering coupler too, they're cheap 'cause VW Bugs use the same part.




The rear got a similar treatment. Subframe inserts and trailing arms pictured.


Oops, I guess I'll replace the strut bearings while I'm at it $$$


Back together again :)

Installation is much easier than removal with polyurethane bushings, but remember to liberally apply grease to prevent squeaks.

Brakes:
Get new big 4-pot front calipers from a Volvo 240 (slightly modified by Ireland Engineering).
Get new big rotors with vanes from a E21 3-series (1977 year only).
Get some E21 hubs.

Bake at 350 degrees for 2.5 hours.


Purely from a service point of view these are a huge upgrade from the stock brake system. Factory front brakes had a godawful configuration that required removing the hub to change rotors:


Begone, leaky rear lines! (I replaced these with parts-store line)


Let's not forget braided stainless hoses, you've GOTTA have those or nobody will take you seriously at ~the track~:



Of course, I needed to upgrade the rear brakes to match my larger fronts (despite not really having driven it with the new brakes yet).

Stockers are 231 mm drums...


These 20 mm larger drums from an E21 are *totally* going to make a huge difference.



Actually, they didn't. In fact, my brakes sucked after this conversion. The obvious solution is to throw more money at the problem, right?
Fast forward a year. Idiot me still hasn't driven the car more than 100 miles (because it's always in pieces) but I decide it's a good idea to re-do the rear brakes.

First I needed to find a Mk4 VW Jetta (sacrifice victim) for its aluminum rear calipers.


Next, I must cut from my own flesh.


With the addition of lovely water-cut brackets from the internet, the conversion is complete:


Man, these brackets suck. None of the holes line up (yellow marks where I used a file to enlarge the hole). These came from "Classic Daily", they went into the "garbage", I became $90 poorer and then I bought decent ones from Ireland Engineering. Even the IE ones required a little shimming (I JB welded washers to the brackets so I don't lose the shims when I take it apart) but at least the bolt holes lined up.



**** A brief interlude, with tool porn ****







Witness, a set of WWII-era aircraft tools for rolling beads on the end of metal tubing to keep hoses from slipping off. They were made by Parker Appliance Company in Cleveland, OH in the 1940s and they're still excellent at what they do. You can get lucky on Ebay or buy expensive reproductions from Graham Tool in LA.
I'll use these later for my fuel system.


**** Back to normally-scheduled programming ****

You know what they say... Big brakes... big wheels. Unfortunately.
I snagged a set of used 15" Enkei 92s with a sort-of correct offset. They look a little silly, but the look has grown on me.



Astute readers will have noticed the pile of tires in my bedroom above and wonder where they went. They were barely used and I sold them mounted on the factory 13" "turbine" wheels to a dude at a flea market. Godspeed, dude.

At least my brakes fit now. I didn't stop there, though. Let's take a peek underneath and see what else I contributed to the sunk cost fallacy (a good nickname for any project car): New shocks, springs, sway bars, and rebuilding my rear axles.




Finally, let's get the parking brake working. The VW calipers would almost actually work with the stock BMW 2002 parking brake cables, but the cables are a tad too long. I shortened the cables and swaged copper ferrules onto the ends.


Swage against the machine. I filed the cable-facing side of the ferrules into a roundish profile so they fit better into the VW calipers.



Lots of room left to take up slack from stretching cables, or ferrules falling off and killing me.


This dumb hoopty is going to be sweet to drive if I can ever get it to work.

That's all until next time, thank you for reading :)

Please let me know if you see anything which puts my life in jeopardy.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Amazing how similar all that crap looks to my E21...poo poo you even did the same brake upgrades I did including the Classic Daily adapters (mine worked ok).

You have way more self control than I do though. I bought a set of H&R sport springs to pair with Bilstein sport shocks and some thicker sways, then Black Friday rolled around. Now the car is sitting on the Ground Control race coil over kit with camber plates and everything else. Complete overkill and pointless but it looks nice...

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

meatpotato posted:

Lots of room left to take up slack from stretching cables, or ferrules falling off and killing me.


This dumb hoopty is going to be sweet to drive if I can ever get it to work.

That's all until next time, thank you for reading :)

Please let me know if you see anything which puts my life in jeopardy.

I'd add a Nordlock washer between the two nuts. Double-nuts don't do poo poo under vibration. Alternately, LockTite might help.

ultimateforce
Apr 25, 2008

SKINNY JEANS CANT HOLD BACK THIS ARC
This car as a cool paint color.

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme

sharkytm posted:

I'd add a Nordlock washer between the two nuts. Double-nuts don't do poo poo under vibration. Alternately, LockTite might help.

Woah :monocle: this is the first time I've heard about Nordlock --what a neat product. I'll probably use threadlocker since I've got a surplus, but I'll file away this new knowledge for future use. Those washers seem like they'd be fantastic for brake caliper bolts, for instance.

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme

ultimateforce posted:

This car as a cool paint color.

Thank you, BMW named the color "golf" yellow. Depending on which camera I'm using and its white balance settings, it comes out as either yellow or green. In real life it's about the same color as those yellow golf balls.

Despite some scratches, rust and dings, the paint job is in decent shape overall. If I ever repaint this car, it's staying the same color. The color was really the deciding factor when I bought it.

It's also very hard to be inconspicuous with this car.

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme
Argh, triple reply, I forgot about multi-quoting. Sorry mods.

NitroSpazzz posted:

Amazing how similar all that crap looks to my E21...poo poo you even did the same brake upgrades I did including the Classic Daily adapters (mine worked ok).

You have way more self control than I do though. I bought a set of H&R sport springs to pair with Bilstein sport shocks and some thicker sways, then Black Friday rolled around. Now the car is sitting on the Ground Control race coil over kit with camber plates and everything else. Complete overkill and pointless but it looks nice...

Oh man, I'm jealous of your bolt-on E21 goodies. I would totally do coil-overs if they weren't such a pain in the rear end on the 2002 --you've got to shorten the strut housings and weld on new perches. I don't trust my own fabrication skills for that (yet) and it's not worth it to pay somebody else.

There's also a fair amount of fabrication to convert the 2002 rear suspension to coil-overs and I'm not capable of that either.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


meatpotato posted:

Oh man, I'm jealous of your bolt-on E21 goodies. I would totally do coil-overs if they weren't such a pain in the rear end on the 2002 --you've got to shorten the strut housings and weld on new perches. I don't trust my own fabrication skills for that (yet) and it's not worth it to pay somebody else.

There's also a fair amount of fabrication to convert the 2002 rear suspension to coil-overs and I'm not capable of that either.

I paid Ground Control to do it on mine because even though it's simple suspension is something I really don't want to gently caress up. As for true coil over in the rear it's nice but most E30 kits just toss an adjustable spring on the trailing arm and call it good since you have to notch the chassis and modify the shock mounting points to fit an actual coil over. For most applications the difference is negligible. Guess I was lucky with the E21 that they came from the factory with a coil over setup in the rear so it was easy.

Here's what they had to do to fit it on the DTM cars...not a easy fit

NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Mar 23, 2016

Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh
True rear coilovers are not necessary*, the shock towers aren't designed for the loads and the spring package decreases the amount of tire/wheel you can fit.

*Some racecars are the exception


NitroSpazzz posted:

Yup, looks pretty minor to me. The M12 is a loving monster. I'm tempted to toss a turbo on my M10 and just slowly crank up the boost to see what it can take.

ARP headstuds and a decent headgasket and you can get 200+ wheel and be decently reliable. I almost bought a homebrew targa newfoundland M10 turbo e30 but just missed out. From what I remember:

-Above mentioned studs/headgasket
-Toyota soarer turbo
-Turbo manifold built by flipping the stock manifold upside down, cutting and welding on a flange
-GM coil setup with a 27-1 trigger wheel (I think)
-Megasquirt wasted spark

It ran like snot even with a slipping clutch. Just needed a proper tune because it had passed through a bunch of kids who knew nothing and kept the super rich tune. Which was a testament to the reliability, the seller didn't know what a wastegate was.

If I ever have a chance to get an M10 e30 I'll be doing a similar project, but they're rare as poo poo now.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Whoa, some more badass work here. This is getting better every time I step into the thread.

That bead roller is amazing. The POs of my cars all have a taste for just globbing weld on instead :(

Hunter2 Thompson
Feb 3, 2005

Ramrod XTreme

Crustashio posted:

True rear coilovers are not necessary*, the shock towers aren't designed for the loads and the spring package decreases the amount of tire/wheel you can fit.

*Some racecars are the exception

ARP headstuds and a decent headgasket and you can get 200+ wheel and be decently reliable.

Re: Coilovers -- True, but nothing lets you endlessly tweak your ride height like a set of coilovers. That said, I I've never had them and I dont't ever plan to put them on this car for reasons mentioned above.

Christ, I couldn't imagine having 200+ wheel hp in a 2002, we'll see where EFI and a tii exhaust manifold get me. If I manage to *not* blow up the engine while tuning it, I'll think about flipping the manifold over and installing a turbo. Oh yeah, did I mention that this thing had (before I tore up my wiring) MegaSquirtII EFI?

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Whoa, some more badass work here. This is getting better every time I step into the thread.

That bead roller is amazing. The POs of my cars all have a taste for just globbing weld on instead :(

Thank you very much, I just kind of make it up as I go (with a little research here and there online).

After doing many things the wrong way the first time and needing to fix them later, I've come around to taking it slowly and putting in a little extra work/cash to put my subconscious at ease. Take the bead roller for instance: before I bought that, the fuel lines didn't even have beads at all :D. I could have burnt my car to the ground many times over with all the poo poo I've pulled.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Crustashio posted:

ARP headstuds and a decent headgasket and you can get 200+ wheel and be decently reliable. I almost bought a homebrew targa newfoundland M10 turbo e30 but just missed out. From what I remember:
-Above mentioned studs/headgasket
-Toyota soarer turbo
-Turbo manifold built by flipping the stock manifold upside down, cutting and welding on a flange
-GM coil setup with a 27-1 trigger wheel (I think)
-Megasquirt wasted spark
This is pretty much what I plan on doing if when I feel the need for more power. Run low-ish boost and aim for 150 at the wheels for a while and see how the engine holds together. Thing has 160k+ on it already and probably needs a rebuild but why not boost it and see how long it hold together? I stupidly sold the spare M10 I had in the shed for a case of beer but they're pretty easy to find.

Sounds like that might be this car - http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/62802-m10-journey-turbo-with-megasquirt-56k-killer/ Wish the pictures worked

meatpotato posted:

Christ, I couldn't imagine having 200+ wheel hp in a 2002, we'll see where EFI and a tii exhaust manifold get me. If I manage to *not* blow up the engine while tuning it, I'll think about flipping the manifold over and installing a turbo. Oh yeah, did I mention that this thing had (before I tore up my wiring) MegaSquirtII EFI?
poo poo that reminds me I have a megaspark setup sitting on the shelf for this thing I picked up somewhere along the line. Also the local shop has M10 E30 efi junk laying around that I need to bug them about again. Not sure if I'll bother with megaspark or just use parts of it for megasquirt.

NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Mar 24, 2016

Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh

meatpotato posted:

Re: Coilovers -- True, but nothing lets you endlessly tweak your ride height like a set of coilovers. That said, I I've never had them and I dont't ever plan to put them on this car for reasons mentioned above.

I mean true coilovers like that picture of the DTM car. Using an adjustable spring perch on the trailing arm gets you ride height adjustment.

NitroSpazzz posted:

This is pretty much what I plan on doing if when I feel the need for more power. Run low-ish boost and aim for 150 at the wheels for a while and see how the engine holds together. Thing has 160k+ on it already and probably needs a rebuild but why not boost it and see how long it hold together? I stupidly sold the spare M10 I had in the shed for a case of beer but they're pretty easy to find.

Sounds like that might be this car - http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/62802-m10-journey-turbo-with-megasquirt-56k-killer/ Wish the pictures worked

poo poo that reminds me I have a megaspark setup sitting on the shelf for this thing I picked up somewhere along the line. Also the local shop has M10 E30 efi junk laying around that I need to bug them about again. Not sure if I'll bother with megaspark or just use parts of it for megasquirt.

That is the exact car, and that guy posting in 2012 would be the fucker that got it out from under me. I'm 95% sure it has been half torn apart and hasn't run since. He wanted to make it a "race car".

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Mat_Drinks
Nov 18, 2002

mmm this nitromethane gets my supercharger runnin'
What is it with 2002 owners and not working on their cars? :3:

Actually, I'm surprised this thread has been up so long and I've somehow missed it. I'll definitely have to hang out and encourage your progress and hopefully you'll do the same in turn. Yours is definitely sharp, Golf is one of my favorite colors because it's such a great example of the weird variety that was out there in the 60s (and that I guess still crops up from time to time).

I'm curious, why'd you go with Jetta calipers in the rear? Don't late e21 calipers bolt right up? Or is it that they're more expensive so money wise this was the better bet?

How's your interior and is it stock? I've been half shopping for e21 sport seats but prices are so high for garbage that I may just recover what I have (old 911/944 seats).

meatpotato posted:

Lots of room left to take up slack from stretching cables, or ferrules falling off and killing me.


While you're dealing with the e-brake you should consider doing this, or if you can weld pre welding it to prevent the cracking that often occurs. See here for more info:
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/130871-handbrake-upgrade-kits-25-shipped/

extreme_accordion posted:

I enquired about the BMW 2002 that I had seen several times.
She corrected me saying, "No it's a 1973 BMW."

As much as I love the car this one drives me crazy. I'll sometimes mention my 'old BMW' to non car people only for them to be confused when I tell them it's a 1968 BMW 2002. "14 years isn't that old" :derp:

On the topic of turbo M10s, my 68 is far from a purist car and while I love having side drafts I could probably fund a lot of the conversion to EFI and turbo by selling them. It's definitely on the table in the future as pushing the car above 150hp seems like the right kind of stupid :getin:

Oh! And Meatpotato, check this out because badges are cool (I ordered two because I couldn't decide on color): http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/178067-2002-50th-anniversary-grille-badge-pre-order/

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