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11.4L/100 is better than mine! It averages about 13.5 on the muddies! But it does make probably 4x the power of yours for that extra 2L/100  Opening them up a bit does help- I had extractors and a 2" pipe on my old 2.8D hilux and it did make a significant difference, especially up top where it no longer struggled to wheeze its way past 3200rpm but would actually rev all the way to 4000!
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May 6, 2016 13:56
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Powershift posted:What kind of fuel economy does that get? I got 20ish mpg on my 7000lb 85 F-250 with 4wd. Some of the other IDI fans got better mileage after they got an auxiliary overdrive unit. The big problem they had was all the transmissions they ever got were effectively 3-speeds. C6's not only never had an overdrive, but was pretty lossy as far as transmitting power goes. The manual transmissions were all effectively 3 speeds as you basically never used 1st gear for normal driving. The 5 speed manual that had overdrive didn't show up until like 88 or 89. The Dana 60 rear ends could only go down to like 3.55, and the Sterlings didn't go much lower. The end result is you'd have people driving them way outside their efficiency zone during highway speeds. I was running vegetable oil and didn't give a poo poo, but a 90% highway daily commute put me at about 22.5mpg on diesel or 20mpg on VO so long as I kept under 60mph. I want to say the redline would have put my top speed at about 85, but the truck ran out of power before 75. Anyway, what I'm getting at is that it's not the engine's fault. What gearing do you have on this vehicle, gimpsuitjones? Are there any actual options for that?
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May 6, 2016 19:37
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I've got 4.11 diffs and a 5 speed H55F The engine struggles to pull it along in 5th on anything but flat or nearly flat ground. A little more power would be nice. That said it does get me around just fine. I haven't got any plans to re gear. The low gears are super low so when I change to 33s it should still be ok Looking at 33x10.5x15 km2s, they only weigh 2kg more than 31x10.5x15, will get alloy wheels at the same time to replace my steelies so my rotating mass on the wheels should actually decrease probably, rolling resistance of a 33x10.5 should be similar to a 31x10.5 I think? gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 21:51 on May 6, 2016 |
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May 6, 2016 21:48
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Ferremit posted:11.4L/100 is better than mine! It averages about 13.5 on the muddies! But it does make probably 4x the power of yours for that extra 2L/100 I get about 12.5 when doing mixed town/highway Did you notice any loss in the low end with extractors? 2" pipe would be better for the low end than the 2.5" I was looking at I guess
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May 6, 2016 21:52
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Ever investigated the idea of putting a Variable Vane turbo on it?
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May 6, 2016 23:32
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A turbo is on the cards at some point but the sheer cost of the kit, certification, and insurance implications means it's way out of my budget at the moment (almost more than I paid for the truck) Almost better off selling, and then buying a BJ74 with the factory 13BT instead
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May 6, 2016 23:49
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gimpsuitjones posted:A turbo is on the cards at some point but the sheer cost of the kit, certification, and insurance implications means it's way out of my budget at the moment (almost more than I paid for the truck) Certification? Oh yeah, Australia isn't it 
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May 6, 2016 23:50
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New Zealand. Has to pass a Warrant Of Fitness (roadworthy) every 6 months, 200 dollar fine if you get caught without one. Has to be certified by an inspector as safe if I add an aftermarket turbo, that costs somewhere in the $hundreds range depending on whether they decide it's safe or not The turbo kit I'm keen on is $2400US = $3500Nz + shipping + import tax...
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May 6, 2016 23:54
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While it is true that a turbo change requires a cert it is definitely something you can get away with going without on a vehicle like that (at least as far as warrants go) I'd actually be more worried about changing the bumper and tyre size - that stuff is way more obvious to the average warrant inspector.
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May 7, 2016 00:37
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Wouldn't it be easier to just swap in a later turbo diesel engine? Do you need to certify if using stuff Toyota themselves put on one?
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May 7, 2016 00:45
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Still technically needs a cert unless it has the 'same or less power' which kinda defeats the purpose of the exercise. The thresholds are fairly strict  
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May 7, 2016 00:50
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InitialDave posted:Wouldn't it be easier to just swap in a later turbo diesel engine? Do you need to certify if using stuff Toyota themselves put on one? "well you see Toyota didn't certify that powertrain for this specific chassis and furthermore..."
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May 7, 2016 00:51
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InitialDave posted:Wouldn't it be easier to just swap in a later turbo diesel engine? Do you need to certify if using stuff Toyota themselves put on one? I could get my hands on a whole 13BT for less than the cost of an aftermarket turbo kit for my 3B, but would need cert despite the BJ74 being exactly the same chassis/body/etc as my BJ73, but with the turbo engine from factory. It's kinda dumb
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May 7, 2016 04:12
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dissss posted:While it is true that a turbo change requires a cert it is definitely something you can get away with going without on a vehicle like that (at least as far as warrants go) my plan is to just do stuff when I have the free money and worry about cert if it comes up at a WOF. but technically since I have 31" tyres currently and it was 29" from factory I should have cert for that. It seems like you can get away with bigger tyres pretty easily
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May 7, 2016 04:14
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You are going to the wrong places for your warrant if you think you'll fail by sticking a turbo on a non-turbo diesel. Most places wouldn't even notice if the engine doesn't match on something like that; unless it's a broom-pishh type car, nobody except VTNZ and their ilk give a drat. Also an LVV costs like 450 bucks and most inspectors are far less strict than you would imagine if you're just doing something minor like that.
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May 7, 2016 04:15
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Slavvy posted:You are going to the wrong places for your warrant if you think you'll fail by sticking a turbo on a non-turbo diesel. Most places wouldn't even notice if the engine doesn't match on something like that; unless it's a broom-pishh type car, nobody except VTNZ and their ilk give a drat. So it sounds like you're saying that he should get a stock turbodiesel pull, and make sure the swap looks clean and stock, and play dumb if he gets called on it? 'Cause that doesn't sound like the worst plan.
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May 7, 2016 07:50
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Raluek posted:So it sounds like you're saying that he should get a stock turbodiesel pull, and make sure the swap looks clean and stock, and play dumb if he gets called on it? Yup. Nobody bothers to decipher the toyota engine codes and double check that stuff except the pseudo-officially sanctioned testing stations like VTNZ etc. There are so many flavours and variants of japanese import floating around, each with their own super special engine/driveline/brakes/wheels/suspension variation, that if it looks 100% factory and not aftermarket (so no silicon ducting, resist the temptation of shiny bits etc)it'll very seldom be questioned.* Then if, by some incredible series of misfortunes you get pinged for it, you play dumb and get your cert (which you will because it's loving factory isn't it) and pay a one-time fee of several hundred dollars which you would be happy to hurl at a differential or bigger brakes or w/e. Think of it as just another price for having your nice interesting car! *:ricy cars excepted. Nobody gives a gently caress if your ancient 4x4 has a factory turbo diesel with a whopping 180hp or not; they're trained to fixate on non-turbo base model legacies which magically have a turbo and fully sikk suspension, mazda wagons which are like totally factory turbo bro with lovely chinese coilovers et al
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May 7, 2016 08:14
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Yep Still wouldn't be surprised if OP gets pinged on that (lack of) bumper though
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May 7, 2016 08:31
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dissss posted:Yep IMO everyone who has that kind of car gets written off as an offroad loony and not a threat to anyone but themselves as long as it's clean and tidy, which it very much is, and the rest of the car like shocks/brakes etc aren't screwy.
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May 7, 2016 08:48
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Technically my (lack of) bumper is factory, just some parts taken off... It's going to be replaced with an ARB bar at some point when I find the cash. Just having a tight month or 2 $-wise which is screwing with my plans. Paying 2x rents due to working in a different city for the winter kinda sucks, but beats not working at all which was a potential situation for June/July Got an iPhone app that records 0-100k and quarter mile times and did a few test runs on the highway today on the way to visit a mate... 22.5+- .5 sec average 1/4 mile time. Be interesting to see how that changes with tyres, exhaust, turbo (eventually) etc.
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May 8, 2016 04:31
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1/4 mile time is of course insanely irrelevant for a landcruiser but it seemed like the easiest way to establish some kind of baseline short of the butt dyno
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May 8, 2016 04:42
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Those apps read notoriously high, too
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May 8, 2016 04:59
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As long as it's consistently high I guess I'll see if I get an improvement
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May 8, 2016 05:14
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Id say the only way that they would notice the difference between engines if it magically wound up with a HD series engine jammed into it. (speaking of, theres a mad fucker in Aus at the moment whos jamming a 100 series 1HD-FTE into a HJ40 shorty....) NZ definately isnt as relaxed as Aus is for engine swaps- Here in South Australia you can pull the 1HZ out of a 105 series and drop in a 1HD-FTE out of a 70 series or 100 series and all you have to do to make it legal is have a piece of paperwork stating that you legally bought the new engine and they check to make sure the engine numbers match your paperwork and then amend their computer systems to reflect the new engine number!
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May 8, 2016 05:35
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Well I've been investigating the option of a turbo and it's looking reasonably simple except for the placement of my stupid clutch booster, but I've bought a new master cylinder that doesn't use the booster to try get rid of that since it doesn't work anyway. So a turbo is possibly in the works in the next few months. Also loving partsouq and amayama... E: junkyard turbo setup with a Garret T25 probably gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 23:15 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 22:59
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I thought I was subscribed to this but I only just caught up on the last 48 posts. Thanks for the pictures of your fuel pump, that looks like a mess of parts I don't have on mine and I'm probably just going to fab up a small bracket to use a spring for holding the pump open. Also, what's all this nonsense about swapping out a perfectly good 3B? You know our engine is nigh-on indestructable, right? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuSf9IBw6lg&t=330s 13 years and all she needed was a battery and a helping hand to hold the fuel pump open. I'd like to see a gasser do that.
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May 17, 2016 01:18
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Yeah, I'd only swap it out for a 13BT or 1HZ. I like the notorious reliability of the B.
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May 17, 2016 01:31
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When a 3B dies, Valkyries descend from above to take it to Vahalla.
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May 17, 2016 02:04
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Got a new exhaust fitted today. It's cut off the old one a couple feet down from the manifold then 2.5" pipe with a free flowing muffler. Sounds about the same but no holes. Sets me up nicely to replace the bit of original pipe at the top in the future when I get the turbo on. It's pretty rough but it gets me legal to pass a WOF in 2 weeks Also got some rad alloy rims for $191 for 4 on trademe, 15x7 with -13 offset. Pulled off one of my current (15x7, ??offset) steelies and these have maybe 3-7mm less offset (it's hard to measure) so I think they'll fit fine, I have heaps of clearance around everything at the moment. Might get some 5mm spacers or something. Going to get my tyres swapped over onto the new rims this weekend 
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May 24, 2016 06:53
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Fermented Tinal posted:Also, how is your fuel-shutoff setup? Since my 3B was taken from a 70 and dropped into a 45, I have a shutoff cable I have to pull on, but it doesn't reset. I've never actually seen what it is supposed to look like because I doubt zip-ties and blobs of weld are what Toyota did. So it seems I have the much less common rotary injector pump rather than inline which is why my pump looks totally different to everyone else's and all the stuff in my workshop manual. So my shutoff is different to yours
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May 24, 2016 07:41
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Ah, I've heard of those, haven't seen one before.
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May 24, 2016 16:07
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Had been having some starting issues on cold mornings, running rough with really high oil pressure and missing on one cylinder, also idling low. Changed engine oil and filter, air filter and adjusted the idle. With that and the new exhaust it seems noticeably better to drive. Idles much happier at 600 rpm than 300 too Also got carried away and wiped a bunch of stuck on gunk off my valve cover, injector pump etc on the grounds that I'll be able to see any leaks better (actually I just wanted a clean engine). Really need to get some spray degreaser in there
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May 27, 2016 07:06
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May 28, 2016 05:31
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gimpsuitjones posted:Had been having some starting issues on cold mornings, running rough with really high oil pressure and missing on one cylinder, also idling low. Changed engine oil and filter, air filter and adjusted the idle. With that and the new exhaust it seems noticeably better to drive. Idles much happier at 600 rpm than 300 too Cold mornings would make me suspect a dead glow plug that means youve got one cylinder not firing until it gets the bore up to temp
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May 28, 2016 11:40
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I too am leaning towards "bad glowplug" and would suggest you peruse this thread on mud about which plugs to use: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/which-plugs-should-i-be-running-b-2b-3b-h-and-2h-diesels.471567/ Replace all four.
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May 28, 2016 15:44
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Thirding glowplug. Barring that, do a compression test.
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May 28, 2016 20:11
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Glow plugs were replaced not long before I got it, I think it was the very low idle, since it's firing up nicely now? Might replace the plugs anyway I guess since it's cheap enough to do.
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May 28, 2016 21:36
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Drove into Macetown today. It's an old Goldmining ghost town in behind Queenstown. 15km track, with 20some river crossings. Nothing serious today with the river pretty low, just some slightly greasy spots with the rain/snow     
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May 29, 2016 01:59
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And then my brakes went.... They've been playing up a bit for a while, the handbrake indicator light occasionally flashes on when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake. Figured it was just pad wear or something as they still worked fine. Basically gone all of a sudden now though... Checked the front pads and they have heaps of meat on them, rotors look good, rear drums are semi-working when I try drive off with the handbrake engaged, Toyota handbrakes are always crap anyway so they seem about as functional as you'd expect, leading me to the hydraulic system. Fluid reservoir hasn't lost anything over the last 6 months. My checklist when I get home is: -check rear drums/shoes -bleed lines -master cylinder (would be losing fluid if this was the problem, surely?) -booster function? -vacuum pump function? -wheel cylinders? (Surely would pull to one side etc if this was the issue?) Any other thoughts? gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 02:35 on May 29, 2016 |
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May 29, 2016 02:07
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Master cylinder blowing a seal internally would just bypass any fluid pressure straight back into the reserviour without any external leaks. So do you have NO brakes or just really crappy brakes? If you have No brakes, look master cylinder, if you have SOME brakes but its like jamming your foot into a tree stump look at the booster and its associated lines. Cheapest first step is bleed the whole system and see what you get!
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May 29, 2016 03:21
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